[tomtom]

M: tried to figure out how to look at UKB and gave up.
Tu: tried to figure out how to post on UKB and gave up.
We: Wondered why UKB was impossible to read on a phone any more
Th: Got fed up with having to zoom pages on UKB to read the text, then having huge images and videos so gave up.
Fr: Didnt bother looking at UKB.
Sa: Had better things to do than hurt my eyes trying to view UKB on a phone so didn't bother.
Su: Figured out how to post things on UKB again and where the threads were. Made a post. Gave up.

Had a good week climbing. Adios.

[shark]

Had a good week climbing. Adios.

Well done on a good week 

11.5-7

M. Went to Manc for a meeting that was cancelled.

T. PM Had wanted to go to the Tor to have another stamina sess on Tin Of. No takers so went to CragX. Condensed so went to the Tor. Fortunately Plantpot and Zips there and I had my lead gear so got my TinOf session after all. Plant pot was parading an extraordinary pair of "climbing" trousers which he was excessively proud of despite being 3 sizes too big. He'd paid £2 at a charity shop in Buxton which was at least £1.99 too much Redpointed Tin Of twice - nearly three times

W. Manc. Stayed over.

T. PM. Knocked off early in Manc due to another cancelled meeting and met Paul at Rivelin. Bit warm, no wind, occasionally midgy. Got stuck into Purple Haze 7A+. Despite being tired and sub optimal conditions managed the crux move once getting the edge. For me this is a top-end power move so faded quickly after. Sonehow tweaked back on the problem or from carrying mats.

F. Bluebird day. Back sore. Didn’t go out

S. AM Sensible money was on Anston but decided to risk the claggy uplands and went to Crag X for another session on Moffatrocity. Back still tweaked. Holds towelled up ok. Keen to experiment with a move on Simon Haas video that Id initially written off as footless nonsense combined with excess lankiness. With a couple of changes made it work for me so now have a robust efficient sequence for entire problem. 18 hand moves 16 foot moves Won't get it this year though. Eve Steak and Thor Ragnorak, Recommended. Second viewing in a week after being accused of treachery by my daughter for seeing it on my own on wednesday.

S. Lovely day. Back still a bit sore. CBA. Meh

Got overly absorbed with BMC shizzle of late to the point where I literally don’t know whether I’m coming or going. Thought I was going to Greece at start of Nov when in fact it is start of Dec. At least Ive got an extra month of stamina training in hand.
Motivation lowish hence not chomping at bit to go out on the two best days of the month. Looking back I have had five reasonably intensive weeks so overdue an easier week and give my back an opportunity to mend fully.     
 

[kelvin]

Got overly absorbed with BMC shizzle of late to the point where I literally don’t know whether I’m coming or going.

I know I had a single lately but thought I'd say that the effort you all put in at the BMC isn't unappreciated.

[Murph]

Week 6 out of 10. Gutterball. Going to try harder next week.

M-work
T-domestics
W-life
T-7k z3 run, easy works session, buggered
F-kids
S-11k z3 run
S-brief pass to the works. Incredibly there were quite a few people in there. On such a nice day. When I'm next out at some roadside lime venue wondering where everyone is, I guess I will know now.

Weight - not weighing in. I'm deliberately sticking my head in the sand.

Got to try harder this next week and not let life get in the way. And extend the 10 week plan to 12 weeks. That's got to be better than abandoning it entirely at the first speed bump...

[measles23]

I thought you were sneaking some fingerboarding into this plan murph wtf??

5yr plan - achieve cosmic alignment of:
1. No injuries.                             - fail: long term finger fuckage
2. Weight sub 70kg.                    - fail: sneaking over
3. Strong hang from bits of wood - OK
4. Strong lift of piece of metal      - OK
5. Climb difficult bits of rock.        - kinda waiting for above to come together before even trying..

M- nowt
T- picked up new Sardinian au pair to hopefully make more sense of being two full time working parents..
W- nowt
T- Nottingham caves and Chinese dinosaurs as per Lager’s advice; stunning specimens, could have spent hours there but boy’s attention span wouldn’t allow it..
F- Max hangs on BM micros (open crimp on 10s):
    7 sets including 3x(+30kg x 5s) happy with that will start increasing weight..
DL: Strange session of mostly failing; failed to do multiples at 220, narrowly failed 250 off 3” blocks twice, failed to close with 220, but snuck in the important progression PB of 235 off 1” blocks, which is where I was stuck 6wks ago and which qualifies me to start trying it off the floor for a true PB, so pretty chuffed.
S- Tamworth snowdome- boy still a better skier than me, and yes I have sufficiently little ego to say I like short skis!
S- Stoke AW 2hrs leisurely session on mid range probs
Beautiful afternoon/sunset at Roaches doing easy routes with family + stray Canadian Perry

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - weights! Cleans up to 61 kg, 2 x 4, 5 x 1. Proud. And happy. Overhead barbell walk. Extreme.
Tue - rest.
Wed - boxing bag. Finally!
Thu - rest.
Fri - Javorek complex, power. 2 x 1; 3 x 2 46 kg.
Sat - one arm hangs on 1,5 cm, LH just RH + 5 kg. Absolutely brilliant. 1 cm + 30 kg 5" x 4. Had big margin but skin gave up. Mega psyching session. Weights, boxing bag.
Sun - light weights.

[36chambers]

M:
T: Indoors. 30 and 50. Can't really remember what I did.
W: Cliff. Sneaked in a couple of hours before sunset. Didn't get on anything new.
T:
F: Caley with lamps. Climbed Rocking Groove 6C, which is very good. First session on Zoo York this season, all the moves felt much easier. Unlocked some excellent beta which omits the cut loose. Climbed it easily 3 moves in, going through the crux. Got all excited thinking I would do it, then somehow lost all ability to do the first hard toe-hook move properly for the rest of the session.
S:
S: Caley. Managed Crystal Method 7B+ and Blockbuster (jump start) 7B, both (shamefully) for the first time. Same as Friday with regards to Zoo York, couldn't get the toe hook to work properly. However I realised I was using different shoes last year, so there's still hope. Repeated Ben's Groove 7B first go, and had a quick play on the sitter which felt considerably easier than when I last tried it. Psyched.

[Luke Owens]

M: Lunch - Assisted 1-arm pull-ups on lat pull down
8 x 30kg L&R
5 x 40kg L&R
3 x 50kg L&R
5 x 40kg L&R

3 x 10 Inverted rows
3 x 15 Dorsal Raises

T: Rest

W: Lamp session at The Barrel in the Pass. Did Barrel LH (6B) as a warm-up then worked on The Minimum (7A+). First time I've tried it, felt hard at first until I'd adjusted to the holds and positions then fell latching the lip maybe 4 times, really close.

T: Rest

F: Lunch - 3 x IYT's (4kg)
3 x 10 Dynamic Push-ups
3 x 10 Dorsal raises

S: Rest

S: Back to try The Minimum (7A+), didn't feel any closer than the other day then changed position on the right hand crimp and hit the top better than last session but didn't hold it, same thing happend a few more times and skin started to fail.

Walked over to try NASA (7A), tried this a few years back and I still can't figure it out. It seems impossible to me how to use the slopers, they are terrible. I'm inclined never to try it again as I really don't enjoy it but that's probably due to the fact I can't do it...!

[Fiend]

Shark:

1. Where are you going in greece?

2. In your experienced opinion, would Malham have been busy on Sunday?? Clear air but lots of sun and n/ly wind, also possible seepage? Please give estimates of total number of climbers. Thanks.

[Duma]

Goals:
Get out more
More 8A's
8b

Body Audit: Finally some improvement in right shoulder, hopefully will continue so I can avoid seeing anyone about it.
Sleep: good.
71kg.

M:
T: TCA, mostly moonboard stuff as the remaining reds all seem too hard. Pleased to manage one off my project list first go, sadly didn't make progress on anything else. shoulder still tweaky.
W:
T: TCA, new hard set (blues) so got stuck in to those - not feeling that brilliant but managed 7 which isn't too bad a start. fingers feeling it from crimping hard for the first time in a while
F:
S: Brean, great weather, warm but enough breeze for decent conditions. Pearl harbour (7a) a couple of times to warm up, then trying Storm Warning Variation (8a), best go was overlapping halves. Be nice to get this as it's not just a boulder problem (it's two, with a shake between).
S: Brean again, no wind so great for sunbathing but sub optimal for climbing. Flashed Clashing Socks (7b) to warm up, error as flash pump never really went. One decent go at SWV, got through what I thought would be redpoint crux, failed on actual redpoint crux. Too knackered for another burn. Good scene at crag so good day despite lack of tick. (7b also equals my hardest flash so can't complain)

Good weekend tying in and nice to have new stuff to try at TCA

[GazM]

Greetings from the north.  Loving the psyche folks.

Mon - Nowt

Tues - Beastmaker before work, 5 x 10 sec deadhangs on various holds, lunchtime quick hit to Farr boulder as I had the idea that the 7C Farr Side Facet would make a good project to chip away at with short sessions.  It's hard.

Weds - Beastmaker, 5 x 10 sec deadhangs + 9kg

Thurs - Short run after work with the dug.

Fri - Board session, 1.5hrs

Sat - Nowt

Sun - Granted a pass after the wee man had been quiet and sleeping well  in the morning so went prospecting for newies in the Inchbae erratics.  Did 2 good problems, one c. Font 5ish, the other in the 6B-6C range. Returned home to hear Ben had been crying solidly for 4 hours.  Poor Sarah.
         

[yetix]

STG: start pulling hard on grit (Captain Hook, Electrical Storm, Monochrome)
MTG: Get strong for 3 week Albarracin trip in December and hopefully give la Fuente (stand) a decent attempt
LTG: Brad Pitt, Paint it Black

64kg (ate way too much sunday evening!


M: Rest
T: Campussing (6x each side 1-4-7 touching 7 but not latching (would be nice to get 1-4-7 properly again soon), 4x each side 1-3-6), gymnastic rings (skin the cat 3x3, revolver push ups 3x6, fallout 3x6) and bar work (5x5 Muscle Ups) 5x5 1 arm hangs (-8kg RH, -8kg x2 10kg x3 LH)
W: Rest
T: Moonboard limit bouldering (what was sent?), bar work (muscle ups? front levers?) 5x5 1 arm hangs (how much weight removed?)
F: Rest
S: Cratcliffe, repeated seventy two and the direct version (7a and 7a+) (also cleaned this up, quality problem in my opinion!) and tried Wish but the top was wet.
S: Stanage, worked on captain hook, felt close but no cigar this time!

[Nutty]

Weight: 68.0kg

STG: Train more regularly, sub-45 min 10k in training, climb outdoors more
MTG: Sub-90 min half marathon (March), sub 41min 10k and sub 20min 5k in training, 7A something
LTG: TBC

M: Rest.
T: Run. Did 8.8km in total, but rolled my ankle after 5.2km. Walked it off, then completed run home.
W: Rest.
T: Ended up in A&E with the boy.
F: Ended up back in A&E with the boy.
S: Rest. Looking after the little one.
S: Rest. Looking after the little one.

Rubbish week. One training run where I rolled my ankle and most the rest of the week a blur of hospital visits, sleepless nights etc. The boy was much better on Saturday evening and Sunday thankfully. Ankle hopefully isn't too bad, there was hardly any swelling so I started doing some exercises on it Thursday onwards, balancing on one leg with eyes closed, hopping etc when I had five minutes. It seems ok, some slight tenderness and it seems more clicky than normal (it's always clicked). Will try to do some strength work and more dynamic/plyometric exercises on it before starting running again. 

[shark]

Shark:

1. Where are you going in greece?

Leonidio

2. In your experienced opinion, would Malham have been busy on Sunday?? Clear air but lots of sun and n/ly wind, also possible seepage? Please give estimates of total number of climbers. Thanks.

Nine teams on the Catwalk. Two teams in Obsession area. No Climbers on Left wing, Upper tier or Right Wing.   

[shark]

Got overly absorbed with BMC shizzle of late to the point where I literally don’t know whether I’m coming or going.

I know I had a single lately but thought I'd say that the effort you all put in at the BMC isn't unappreciated.

 

[Fiend]

Pleasingly accurate report, cheers

If you want any tips for Leonidio, PM me. Had 8 good days there.

[Bradders]

Climbed it easily 3 moves in, going through the crux. Got all excited thinking I would do it

Yeah buddy! It's happening...

STG - Tourniquet & Queen Kong
MTG - week off in October and two weeks off before Christmas. Hoping to finish off a couple of grit projects, notably Jason's Roof at Crookrise and Low Rider at Stanage
LTG - too many projects to list here.

M - moved house. Didn't get finished till 2am.
T - unpacking and sorting. Knackered.
W - sacked off unpacking and went climbing. Started off wet but improved quickly with a good breeze. Decent but not amazing connies. Managed Mike's Problem at Brimham. Nowhere near 7C+ as per guide, maybe 7B+ or soft 7C. Good anyway. Then had a few punts at The Prize, a new highball put up a couple of weeks ago. Realistically I was shattered but got close.
T - more unpacking, Ikea trip, putting up furniture
F - Brimham again. Excellent conditions, properly crisp. Climbed The Prize 3rd go after warming up. Brilliant problem. Then did Belly Porker's Progress 7B which is excellent and deserving of far more attention.
S - cleaned my old house, took stuff to household waste recycling. More furniture construction.
S - oh man, days out don't get better. Perfect conditions. Went to Queens Crag again. Managed Queen Kong 8A third go of the day. Hadn't even felt properly warmed up so camera was still in the bag! There was a big team trying it so I rested lots, spotted and started having goes at the sit. Managed it after four or so attempts, once I'd worked out the crux move. Climbed like a dream. Probably not quite 8A+ but who cares. Either way first 8 for me! Made up.

[fried]

Nothing until Sunday when I did my usual 2h indoor session. Climbed O.K.

Too much work, car not being repaired until tomorrow ...and family birthdays.

This week should be much better...

[36chambers]

S - oh man, days out don't get better. Perfect conditions. Went to Queens Crag again. Managed Queen Kong 8A third go of the day. Hadn't even felt properly warmed up so camera was still in the bag! There was a big team trying it so I rested lots, spotted and started having goes at the sit. Managed it after four or so attempts, once I'd worked out the crux move. Climbed like a dream. Probably not quite 8A+ but who cares. Either way first 8 for me! Made up.

duly wadded

[nai]

goals - heal finger, stay fit, get burly, strengthen body

m - painful massage
t - sore
w - burly garage bouldering & TRX
th - LI AeroCap, decided to try Gymnastic bodies bodyweight workout (well done FB, got me eventually). Started with the freebie, found some of the (fairly basic) exercises hard at times.
F - very quick HI AeroCap session
S - rest
S - another short GB workout. Slight improvements

[Duma]

I would wad bradders for his efforts but it doesn't seem to work on my mobile.
I would mention this to those in power but they've locked the relevant thread.

[Sidehaas]

Had a good week climbing. Adios.

S. AM Sensible money was on Anston but decided to risk the claggy uplands and went to Crag X for another session on Moffatrocity. Back still tweaked. Holds towelled up ok. Keen to experiment with a move on Simon Haas video that Id initially written off as footless nonsense combined with excess lankiness. With a couple of changes made it work for me so now have a robust efficient sequence for entire problem. 18 hand moves 16 foot moves Won't get it this year though.

I'm 5ft11 with negative ape so I don't normally go in for moves requiring "excess lankiness"!

[shark]

Short levers and lanky. Congratulations on winning life's lottery

[Coops_13]

STG: Train while adjusting to new job
MTG: 7C

M: Rockstar Swindon - average wall with some good and some really bad setting. good session
T: Rockstar Swindon - tried two days in a row, lacked power and energy. Volume
W:
T: Rockstar Swindon - a few new comp problems were being tested so got involved. Good fun session
F:
S: My yearly foray to Southern Sandstone... Half day trip with csl. Eridge to warm up, had some goes on Azazel. No psyche, cold. Wanted to be on the grit. Went to Bowles. Tried Banana Hammock to no avail, good problem though. Finished by doing a couple of eliminates. Luck Strike 7A, a dyno up the middle of Fandango Wall. Them Monkey Things Left, a link up of a highball 6B+ into 6A which somehow got 7A+ on UKC, not even close.

S:

Had (relative) fun on the Southern Sandstone, tempted to go over the winter to try Phasis 7C a bit more. Start a new job next week so hopefully can keep momentum...

[tommytwotone]

Goal - new Font7anything


M - wall session eve - Lab - wanted to get on the Moonboard but there was a large team in situ trying stuff too hard for me. Focused on the normal wall problems instead and came away with a couple of black ticks, about V5.
T - nowt
W - nowt
T - physio assessment for my knacked back, which I did not deadlifting in good form. Needs some work it seems.
F - day off, mint weather, no kids. Great session at Blackstones with tomtom culminating in tick of The Lushering, which gets 7a. Should be a YYFY but I didn't spot it's a sit start, and I didn't do the (probably) about 5c move off the deck into the stand. Back around / NNFN but I'll head back and tick it. Got stuck into a good 7a-ish arete to the right which we both got close to.
S - nowt
S - nowt


A good week - back is on the mend, managed a wall session and a brilliant day out.