UKBouldering.com

Angela Eiter becomes the first woman to climb 9b (Read 4242 times)

HaeMeS

more Offline
  • **
  • player
  • Posts: 94
  • Karma: +7/-0
Angela Eiter becomes the first woman to climb 9b! La Planta de Shiva 9b in Villanueva del Rosario, Spain (FA by Adam Ondra). Source 8a.nu/Austrians on Facebook.

 :o  :clap2:  :beer2:

HaeMeS

more Offline
  • **
  • player
  • Posts: 94
  • Karma: +7/-0
4 times world champion  :tease:

Edit: Replied to deleted post...

Danny

more Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 603
  • Karma: +25/-3
Amazing. Regarding women and 9b+: seems more and more likely by the day.

bendavison

more Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 300
  • Karma: +14/-0
This is flippin amazing

jwi

more Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1906
  • Karma: +128/-0
  • uhm... huh?
    • On Steep Ground
Mind-blowing  :bounce:

Danny

more Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 603
  • Karma: +25/-3
 "One of my hardest so far, pure endurance climbing with few rests, continuously hard with minimum of rests."—Adam Ondra

Danny

more Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 603
  • Karma: +25/-3

Wood FT

more Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2188
  • Karma: +110/-6
  • street walking cheetah
    • Nectar Bulletin / Collective climbing blog
brilliant!

T_B

more Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2386
  • Karma: +106/-4
Amazing.

That Ondra footage is awesome - clips one draw in how many moves?!

remus

more Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 512
  • Karma: +18/-1
Thats well cool! Some serious dispatching going on this year.

bigironhorse

more Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 428
  • Karma: +12/-0
    • YouTube
Great news!  :strongbench: :strongbench:

Does anybody know the URL for that website (french one I think) where you can search through routes graded 9a and above and there are lists of who has climbed them?

bigironhorse

more Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 428
  • Karma: +12/-0
    • YouTube
Great news!  :strongbench: :strongbench:

Does anybody know the URL for that website (french one I think) where you can search through routes graded 9a and above and there are lists of who has climbed them?

Found it http://escalade9.wifeo.com/

Duma

more Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3560
  • Karma: +130/-3
Awesome stuff :bow:

cowboyhat

more Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1212
  • Karma: +75/-3
This is surprising, I had no idea any women were close to this grade since recent 9a+ was being so lauded.

Seems like a really outstanding achievement, as significant as Silence 9c.

jwi

more Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1906
  • Karma: +128/-0
  • uhm... huh?
    • On Steep Ground
The ninth man to climb a 9b is a woman. There's only one spot left to be among the first ten, so get training!

Duma

more Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3560
  • Karma: +130/-3
jwi - someone on UKC posted this list - I guess you're discounting Chilam Balam(9a+), Ali-Hulk (sit start nonsense), Es Pontas (never given 9b), Meiose (FA, unconfirmed?), Rainman (FA unconfirmed?), the Fred Rouhling routes, and Delincuente Natural (extension)?


#1 Adam Ondra (23): Change, Chaxi Raxi, Chilam Balam, C.R.S., Fight or Flight, First Round First Minute, Golpe de Estado, Iron Curtain, La Capella, La Dura Dura, La Planta de Shiva, Lapsus, Mamichula, Marina Superstar, Move, Move Hard, Queen Line, Robin úd, Silence, Stoking the Fire, Torture Physique Integrale, Vasil Vasil, Vicious Circle
#2 Chris Sharma (10): Alasha, El Bon Combat, Es Pontas, Fight or Flight, First Round First Minute, Golpe de Estado, Jumbo Love, La Dura Dura, Neanderthal, Stoking the Fire
#3 Daniel Andrada Jiménez (3): Ali Hulk (sit start extension), Chilam Balam, Delincuente Natural (extension)
#4 Alexander Megos (3): Fightclub, First Round First Minute, Supernova
#5 Frédéric Rouhling (3): Akira, Empreintes, Salamandre
#6 Stefano Ghisolfi (2): First Round First Minute, Lapsus
#7 Jakob Schubert (2): Fight or Flight, La Planta de Shiva
#8 Sachi Amma (1): Fight or Flight
#9 Pirmin Bertle (1): Meiose
#10 Sébastien Bouin (1): Chilam Balam
#11 Angela Eiter (1): La Planta de Shiva
#12 Bernabé Fernández (1): Chilam Balam
#13 Ramón Julián Puigblanque (1): Catxasa R2
#14 Jernej Kruder (1): Es Pontas
#15 Eduard Marín García (1): Chilam Balam
#16 Steve McClure (1): Rainman
#17 Magnus Midtbř (1): Ali Hulk (sit start extension)
#18 Ethan Pringle (1): Jumbo Love

jwi

more Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1906
  • Karma: +128/-0
  • uhm... huh?
    • On Steep Ground
Nothing with a sit start, no mystery belayers, and since Seb the great doesn't want to count Chilam Balam as 9b for himself it's also discounted. Adam Ondra flashed both Chromosomes and estimates the connection (Meiose) to 9a/+

I'm irritated that some of these routes are mentioned in the same breath as La Planta de Shiva.

monkoffunk

more Offline
  • ***
  • stalker
  • Posts: 286
  • Karma: +20/-0
  • sponsored by berocca and pepsi max
Might have slept through some thing but is Rainman disputed??

duncan

more Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1757
  • Karma: +206/-1
This is really impressive of Angela. The video Danny posted of Ondra on this epitomises current hard sport climbing.


The mighty nine:

#1 Adam Ondra (22): Change, Chaxi Raxi, C.R.S., Fight or Flight, First Round First Minute, Golpe de Estado, Iron Curtain, La Capella, La Dura Dura, La Planta de Shiva, Lapsus, Mamichula, Marina Superstar, Move, Move Hard, Queen Line, Robin úd, Silence, Stoking the Fire, Torture Physique Integrale, Vasil Vasil, Vicious Circle
#2 Chris Sharma (8 ): El Bon Combat, Fight or Flight, First Round First Minute, Golpe de Estado, Jumbo Love, La Dura Dura, Neanderthal, Stoking the Fire
#3 Alexander Megos (3): Fightclub, First Round First Minute, Supernova
#4 Stefano Ghisolfi (2): First Round First Minute, Lapsus
#5 Jakob Schubert (2): Fight or Flight, La Planta de Shiva
#6 Sachi Amma (1): Fight or Flight
#7 Angela Eiter (1): La Planta de Shiva
#8 Steve McClure (1): Rainman
#9 Ethan Pringle (1): Jumbo Love     

Didn’t make the cut:

Chilam Balam: Seb says 9a+ (but Ondra says 9b and should have as good an idea as anyone...)
Meiose: Ondra says no.
Catxasa R2: 9a+/b
Es Pontas: ungraded DWS
Alasha: ungraded DWS
Delincuente Natural (extension): boulder problem   
Ali Hulk (sit start extension): boulder problem
Akira: boulder problem
Empreintes: no precise grade (“9a-b”)
Salamandre: no precise grade (“9?”)

Comments and corrections to jwi please!

jwi

more Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1906
  • Karma: +128/-0
  • uhm... huh?
    • On Steep Ground
That seems to be as far as I understand it from the consensus/whisperings of local hard men around here. Still only 5 humans that managed more than one. Also worth mentioning that Schubert found La Planta de Shiva harder than Fight or Flight (source).

Daniel Andrada also calls Chilam Balam 9a+ (source)

Fiend

more Offline
  • *
  • _
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 9354
  • Karma: +331/-57
This is phenomenal. Such a great step. It doesn't seem that long ago that gurls climbing 8c (the first bit lol) was vaguely newsworthy?? 9b is still actually hard hard these days!

Gotta rewatch the video a 2nd time. It does look like the style of rock in the main section looks like a sensible route choice to go for, lots of little features to work out sequences if you don't have Ondra's morphology (it also looks like arse IMO, an orange version of Peak lime).

Will Hunt

more Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Cute and fluffy
  • Posts: 4230
  • Karma: +297/-73
    • Unknown Stones
Quote from: some bloke on UKC
Maybe we are now looking at a crossover point where on the latest uber steep routes with tiny holds, the top ladies with their light frames can not only compete with (traditionally) more powerful men, but beat them eg. Eiter 46k. Shiraishi 40k. v Ondra 68k. Megos 57k. Sharma 75k.
 Even with more muscle carrying an extra 20k is quite a handicap. Try it down at the wall!

 Just a thought!

Any science or sense behind this?

jwi

more Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1906
  • Karma: +128/-0
  • uhm... huh?
    • On Steep Ground
The scaling law (strength is proportional to area, weight is proportional to volume) says that the smaller animal has a higher strength/weight ratio, all else being equal. However the scaling law is not really true (strength is not precisely proportional to area) and all else is not equal.

duncan

more Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1757
  • Karma: +206/-1

Salamandre: no precise grade (“9?”)



Salamandre has just been repeated by Baptiste Dherbilly who clearly reads ukb and felt the need to clarify the grade: 8a into a 8A+/B boulder, followed by 7/8 moves in the 8b+ range.

Will Hunt

more Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Cute and fluffy
  • Posts: 4230
  • Karma: +297/-73
    • Unknown Stones
Well that's cleared that up then.