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Power Klub 399 16th - 22nd Oct (Read 6328 times)

shark

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Power Klub 399 16th - 22nd Oct
October 22, 2017, 06:15:11 pm
11.5-6

M.

T. PM Tor. PJH dipped out with poorly back but Ally stepped in. Michaela and Zips turned up for gossip and banter. Rock dry but glass as. Feet slipping off all over. Redpointed Tin Of after about 5 attempts requiring a change to a less conditions dependent sequence on the crux

W.

T. Crappy weather

F. PM Crag X Dry ! Worked first section of Moffatrocity. Harder than expected. Got tired quickly feeling Id not achieved a lot which quite frankly I hadnt

S. Looked to be filthy weather Peakside. PM snuck in a quick session at Anston between dropping off and picking up Poppy from drama. Paul Reeve and Karl B there - great minds and all that. Got to work on Beretta 7A+ again (session 3!) Gave myself a final go when I should have been packing and bagged it. Thank fuck for that. Only slightly late picking Poppy up

S. PM Systems board. Good mixed session - mainly endurance

Managed to shed some weight this week
« Last Edit: October 26, 2017, 12:17:46 pm by shark »

36chambers

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#1 Re: Power Klub 399 6th - 22nd Oct
October 22, 2017, 11:30:07 pm
M:
T: Brimham avec lamps. Climbed To You Too 7C/+ and Crimpy Roof 7B.
W:
T: Indoors. 30 and 50. Didn't feel strong, messing around trying to set moves based on real life climbs I'd like to do.
F:
S: Roche Abbey. Originally just there to support the GF. But managed Jazz 7B, Tony's Undercut Eliminate 7A+, Faith Left Hand 7A+, and Fallen Idol 7B+. All in a few goes each. Felt relatively good on Fallen Idol sitter 7C+ and figured out the moves on Fool's Justice 7C+, but didn't have time to get stuck into it. I'm now quite psyched to return at some point.
S: Cliff. Finally opened my account on Chiasmata 8A. Got as far as bumping the RH up the prow, which I assume is where the hard part starts. Still tweaking the beta. Repeated stu's roof first go, managed DWR LH crux (with OG beta) first go, having barely tried it before. Had a play on Hot Dog Fromage proper way, did from one hand on lip to the top, but couldn't really find a position for the jump to the lip (surprisingly psyched for this problem now). The roof that keeps on giving.

I felt the grit and the grit felt good. First week of grit season?

tomtom

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#2 Re: Power Klub 399 6th - 22nd Oct
October 23, 2017, 02:54:24 am
Too. Much. Travelling.

M: Fieldwork Spain
Tu: Fieldwork Spain
We: 3 hour drive to Barcelona, fly back. Managed to squeeze in a 45 min max hangs session before wife and baby came home..
Thu:
Fri: Depot. Good session playing on the 30.
Sa: Midday flight to LAX - then onwards to Seattle. Decent flight (managed to get Premium Economy for a decent price) - watched Alien Covenant (which I really liked) Donkey Kong (or whatever the latest king kong thing is) and most of Pirates of the Caribbean Part 17 (which was actually alright). Nice aerial view of the Grand Canyon en-route.
Su: Managed to sleep until 5 am (7 hours total) which is a decent result given time differences. Conference, which is a bit shit, wish I'd remembered my rock boots as I'd have gone to the wall instead on tues. Ho hum. 

tomtom

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#3 Re: Power Klub 399 6th - 22nd Oct
October 23, 2017, 02:56:16 am
and wtf is Power Klub?

Sounds more like a seedy basement nightclub with pitch black private rooms.

Still, you're one of the owners.....

Nibile

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#4 Re: Power Klub 399 6th - 22nd Oct
October 23, 2017, 07:35:55 am
Power Klub

Mon - BM back3 and front3 session. Felt quite strong. My left elbow didn't quite like it as I did though.
Tue - rest. And ice.
Wed - board klimbing. Singles and links on kurrent project. Felt good.
Thu - klimbing class.
Fri - rest.
Sat - board klimbing. Singles and links. Tired. Back to 21/22 degrees and 60% humidity. Kan't see anything interesting happening at the board for the near future. Left elbow screaming with pain. Dumbbell komplex.
Sun - board klimbing. Useless. Rack pulls, farmer's walk, weights.

Konsidering everything that's been hindering my training for the last five weeks, not bad at all. Felt strong on the BM, felt good on the board on Wednesday. Rest of the week was quite poor, with my lef elbow really in pain. Must sort it out, I'll probably kut some fingerboarding for the moment. Really warm again. Big big fight. This past week was board only, kan't wait to lift some weights again.

shark

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#5 Re: Power Klub 399 6th - 22nd Oct
October 23, 2017, 08:13:52 am
OK week then  ;D

Duma

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#6 Re: Power Klub 399 6th - 22nd Oct
October 23, 2017, 08:42:25 am
no karma comments so: wadding Nibs for his K's

Luke Owens

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#7 Re: Power Klub 399 6th - 22nd Oct
October 23, 2017, 08:56:18 am
11.5-6
Gave myself a final go when I should have been packing and bagged it.

Nice one Shark, story of my life that is!

M: Rest

T: Rest

W: Lunch - 3 x 10 press-ups
3 x 10 Hanging knee raises

Assisted 1-arm pull-ups on lat pull down
8 x 30kg L&R
4 x 40kg L&R
2 x 50kg L&R
4 x 40kg L&R

T: Lunch - 3 x 10 press-ups
3 x 10 Hanging knee raises

Assisted 1-arm pull-ups on lat pull down
8 x 30kg L&R
5 x 40kg L&R
4 x 50kg L&R
5 x 40kg L&R

Eve: Boardroom - 15 mins easy problems warm-up

Did 2 more of the 6C - 7A's.
Worked a 7A+ for awhile then had a few goes on another.

F: Rest

S: Rest

S: Late night lamp session at the Cromlech Boulders, I have no psyche for anything more local (I've done everything punter level at Pantymwyn) bit risky going all that way without knowing conditions but I some how justify these things in my head. Wanted to try Ultimate Retro Party but it was seeping and had a lake underneath it...

Found dry-ish rock and shelter from the wind on the roadside face. Managed to dry and do "Chocolate Moose" (7A) a really good eliminate below the ramp. Then surprised myself by doing "Johnny's Wall" (7A) 4th go. Wanted to do this for ages but never got around to trying it, mega. Expected disaster session turned out to be great, not often I do two 7's in a session.

Bradders

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#8 Re: Power Klub 399 6th - 22nd Oct
October 23, 2017, 08:57:17 am
STG - Tourniquet & Queen Kong
MTG - week off in October and two weeks off before Christmas. Hoping to finish off a couple of grit projects, notably Jason's Roof at Crookrise and Low Rider at Stanage
LTG - too many projects to list here.

M - yoga in the morning
T - on my way to Caley after work and had to turn around to pick up my girlfriend who was stranded in Leeds train station due to completely cancelled trains. Ended up doing nothing.
W - hang board max hangs, 5x 1r @ 21kg for 10s on the small BM2K rungs. Trying bloody hard but didn't fail any rep. Then weighted pull ups 5x 2r @ 29kg. Struggling to get chin over bar on second rep.
T - packing, moving house on Monday
F - again tried to go outside. Wet rock. Depot instead, new purples felt hard, managed 4 or 5 and worked a few others.
S - packing
S - day trip to Queens. Forecast promised dry, cold and strong winds. We arrived to horizontal rain which did not let up. Went to Eden Rock instead, good wall. Faffed around on stuff on the comp wall for about three hours, lots of big moves on good holds.

Three times trying and failing to go rock climbing this week! Far too much time spent looking at wet rock. Well annoying. It'd be really nice to just get something finished off one of these days.

Week off next week. Moving on Monday, probably unpack Tuesday and then the rest of the week is mine.

Nutty

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#9 Re: Power Klub 399 6th - 22nd Oct
October 23, 2017, 08:58:20 am
Weight: 68.0kg

STG: Train more regularly, sub-45 min 10k in training, climb outdoors more
MTG: Sub-90 min half marathon (March), sub 41min 10k and sub 20min 5k in training, 7A something
LTG: TBC

M: Run. 6.5km at 4:08/km pace
T: Easy 5k run, then hill sprints (3x10 seconds). First hill sprint session hence the low reps - plan to build it up over the weeks.
W: Board session. Tweaked the problem I've been doing by using a worse hold in place of the best hold and managed to do it from the left hand start. Couldn't do the mirror right hand start version though, can't do the last move.
T: Rest.
F: Rest
S: Rest
S: Run. 13.5km in just over an hour. Longest run since starting training. Steady pace and included a few inclines.

Good week on the running front. Pleased to get three running sessions in and to build up the length of my longer run. Haven't done hill sprints before, they feel like they could be addictive.

Would've liked to have got another board session in, but the little boy has been sleeping poorly this week and hence I've been sleeping poorly. Decided a couple of early nights were needed rather than more training sessions.

Duma

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#10 Re: Power Klub 399 6th - 22nd Oct
October 23, 2017, 09:10:50 am
Nike work on final go tikk Simon.

Goals:
Get out more
More 8A's
8b

Body Audit: Right shoulder no longer improving, ought to see someone really.
Sleep: ok.
70kg.

M: knackered, not used to this outdoor klimbing lark
T: TKA, trying red in roof and on prow, pleased to manage the roof in the first proper session I've had on it. Prow krux seems impossible though.
W: nothing
T: TKA, first round of winter komps, my first as a vet too. I won! ;D Nike to aktually feel like I klimbed something trikky in the finals.
F: nothing, drive to Kornwall.
S: parenting.
S: parenting, drive home.

Well khuffed with Thursday's result, obvs the result but more so that I felt like I made very few mistakes and was klimbing well.

GazM

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#11 Re: Power Klub 399 6th - 22nd Oct
October 23, 2017, 09:12:51 am
Morning all. Feeling your pain Bradders - limited rock opportunities for me at the moment.  Hope your week off delivers.

M - Lunch break at Inverness wall, squeezed in 45 minutes bouldering.

T - Nowt

W - pre-work BM session. Warm up on various holds, moving up to 5 x 10secs on smalls, 35s and smalls + 9kg.

Th - Lunch break sprint to Farr boulder, mainly to see if I'm able to squeeze anything worthwhile in. Did Right Arete SS 6B+, Curiosity becomes a heavy load 6C and Forever Unfulfilled 6C+ but was a bit late back.

F - Shed board session, managed a couple of my recent projects.

Sa - Quick local run.

Su - Shed board session.

With each passing day we're getting more settled with this whole parenting thing so might be granted a full day pass soon.  Feeling pretty good on the board so might be able to make a dent ion the growing project list.

nai

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#12 Re: Power Klub 399 6th - 22nd Oct
October 23, 2017, 09:13:10 am
no karma comments so: wadding Nibs for his K's

Klassy

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#13 Re: Power Klub 399 6th - 22nd Oct
October 23, 2017, 09:41:12 am
STG: start pulling hard on grit (Captain Hook, Electrical Storm, Monochrome)
MTG: Get strong for 3 week Albarracin trip in December and hopefully give la Fuente (stand) a decent attempt
LTG: Brad Pitt, Paint it Black

63.5kg

Sprained my ankle last weekend so spent most of the week campusing, fingerboarding and doing conditioning really. On a positive note my finger (lumberical issues) is feeling massively better for the first time in months!

M: Rest
T: Campussing, gymnastic rings and bar work also 1st time trying 5x5 1 arm hangs (did 83% BW on BM2000 20mm edge, not sure how good/bad that is?)
W: Rest
T: Campussing, and bar work retried 5x5 1 arm hangs (managed 87% (-8kg) on right hand and 84% (-10kg)on left hand on BM2000 20mm edge)
F: Rest
S: Moonboard session at rockover. felt tired and weak but managed to suffer my way up a few problems.
S: Moonboard session at rockover. rolled my ankle again lightly (screamed a lot though so sorry to anyone who had to suffer that!) felt much stronger than on saturday

nai

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#14 Re: Power Klub 399 6th - 22nd Oct
October 23, 2017, 09:52:35 am
stg - address body weaknesses & stay fit while finger heals.

M - partner pulled out, so 3x15mins AeroCap

T - had to bail on partner due to kiddy illness. HI AeroCap

w -  :fishing:

Th - bailed again due to weather.  Hour bouldering in garage. Then  :fishing: Good session.

F - partner desperate to get out to finish Blockhead, I wasn't very optimistic. Agreed I'd give him a catch and warmed up at home while he went ahead, followed behind but go the call in Litton that it was wet.  Went  :fishing: briefly to meet up with lagers then back home for 20x 1min juggy steep laps.

S - weights then :fishing: 

S nowt


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#15 Re: Power Klub 399 6th - 22nd Oct
October 23, 2017, 10:19:45 am
STG: Train
MTG: 7C

M:
T: Indoors. Good session on the 50, managed to repeat last week's project and put up a new one
W: Had to drive to Swindon and back for work so no time for wall :(
T:
F:
S: Day trip to peak lime, really good day. Tor first. Warmed up then managed Weedbasher 7A+/B then went over and finally did Little Extra Direct 7A :) Next did Peverse Reverse into Basher's Problem 7A+/B then finished with Too Hard for Mark Leach Footless 7A :) Then Stoney, Minus Ten. Almost managed Egyptian 7A+ but finger started hurting so saved myself for the main event, Tom's Roof. Finally managed Power Allowance 7B, good tick. Then did the Womb and Womb into Tom's Original 7A. Failed on Tom's there and back so called it a day and headed back to London. Really fun day playing about on eliminates and link-ups  :2thumbsup:
S:

Pretty psyched at the moment but not able to get out again for a few weeks :( Planning on lots of training.

T_B

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#16 Re: Power Klub 399 6th - 22nd Oct
October 23, 2017, 10:45:31 am
M -
T - lunch run
W - lunch Autobelays x 12 ish up to 6c. Pm run
T - lunch Wave pulling, L2s and a L3. Trying a couple of harder ones. Didn't feel too bad.
F - lunch run
S - am Stanage Popular End with mate who was visiting from Edinburgh. At crag for 9. Baltic. Led The Tippler, seconded Cave Arete, led Desperation. Ran away as the rain swept in. Not the best piece of forecasting, which had suggested it would be dry until 2pm. Coffee in Hathersage, then back to my gaff for a board session. Felt surprisingly strong on my board. Pm 3k run with my 6yr old.
S - pm run

I think the pretty much 9 days off has done me good with fingers feeling less tight/tweaky. Also, my running injury has been slowly improving so lost weight this week from quite a bit of running and therefore felt pretty decent on the board on Saturday.
Great to do some trad, albeit 3 routes.


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#17 Re: Power Klub 399 6th - 22nd Oct
October 23, 2017, 11:12:33 am
LTG: Font 7anything

M: random illness, most of day in bed
T: still laid low
W: back up and about
T: back to work, went to Lab in evening and had second session on Moonboard. Managed a "benchmark" 6b+ and then got rinsed in a series of spanny / throwy 6cs. Also flashed a V5.
F: nowt
S: day of housework
S: session at Lab with Una - more Moonboard spank-age for me, but she sat happily while a ran round a few problems on the normal wall. Best tick of the day was her finding her confidence and topping out the kid's area slab.

Despite it being brick hard and showing how weak I am, I'm pretty psyched for the Moonboard. Going to stick with it, even if I'm not ticking I'm still trying hard which must count for something. I'm also going to build a basic portable fingerboard to take to the gym midweek that I can use for doing some deadhanging as all my finger strength has all but evaporated.


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#18 Re: Power Klub 399 6th - 22nd Oct
October 23, 2017, 12:40:45 pm
70.6kg

M- nowt
T- quick stolen session upper tier roaches - bunch of easy classics then another session on Grand Theft 7C; refined sequence and a few longer links.. Did the moves on Dom's 8A extension but can't easily see me keeping it together to do them after the main traverse..
W- nowt
T- poor mojo + insufficient skin after Tuesday..
Max hangs BM micros: 6 sets up to 30kg x 3s on the 10s
DL: 14 sets up to 205x3 but something snapped; after 6 weeks of being a good boy periodising and dropping the weight for 5s I just couldn't take repping any more and have decided to load up and get back to heavy weights.. Lifted 235 off 3" blocks, then 245 off the same (PB), nearly 250.. Reasonably chuffed to close with 5 plates (220) on 14th set.. I fuckin love heavy weights!!!
F- long day operating big tumour resection
S- on call - nowt
S- on call - snuck into gym for 11 sets squats up to a couple of singles at 140(PB); experimented with some limited ROM squats just dropping a couple of inches, so I can put a lot more weight on and target the same ROM as my deads- seams to work well but it's not described anywhere and I'm sure there were some eyes rolling in the gym!

Nibile

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#19 Re: Power Klub 399 6th - 22nd Oct
October 23, 2017, 01:22:12 pm
no karma comments so: wadding Nibs for his K's
:lol:
This is brilliant: who says you can't motivate karma anymore?

duncan

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#20 Re: Power Klub 399 6th - 22nd Oct
October 23, 2017, 01:49:25 pm
STG - 175 degree shoulder elevation. Outdoor klimbing by the end of the month.
MTG - avoid reinjury
LTG - tbc

M - Stretches
T - Stretches. Shoulder strengthening (through range rotator cuff, scapular muscles, deltoid).
W - Stretches
T - Bouldering in the redeveloped Westway Oven. 10 beginners warm-ups. Great to be back.
F - Stretches
S - Westway with The Economist. Top-roped routes up to 5+. Felt quite good on off-vertical stuff.
S - Westway with the lad and his friend. This pairing worked well so could be a regular Sunday activity. Managed 5 autobelay routes including a slightly impending 5+.

Climbing again! YYFY! A little soreness and a lot of trepidation of course but it went at least as well as could be expected. Extremely busy week at work and recovering from a cold so I’ve let the supplementary exercises slip a little. Achieved 175 degrees shoulder elevation (right side is 185 for comparison) early in the week but have regressed to 170. Need to resume and progress these. I should do shoulder stability work for the remainder of my climbing life. Got all enthusiastic and started planning about 5 trips next year.

Interesting to see the results of the redevelopment of the Westway bouldering. My overall impression...you spent £XXX XXX to get this!? (Don’t know the sum but looking at the structural work it must be close to 6 figures). The new mezzanine - all vertical, give or take - was very quiet the times I was there.

Plan: keep up the stretches, one session of targeted finger stuff, go outdoors (not the shop).

tomtom

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#21 Re: Power Klub 399 6th - 22nd Oct
October 23, 2017, 05:13:45 pm
no karma comments so: wadding Nibs for his K's
:lol:
This is brilliant: who says you can't motivate karma anymore?

Carma?

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#22 Re: Power Klub 399 6th - 22nd Oct
October 23, 2017, 06:29:49 pm
Same, Same ...2 decent indoor sessions on Tuesday and Sunday. Should have done another but I'm worked off my feet at the moment....and sleeping badly.

The garage that is dealing with my insurance company is closed for repairs, meaning no car until November.

That is all.

Nutty

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#23 Re: Power Klub 399 6th - 22nd Oct
October 24, 2017, 09:16:34 am
Climbing again! YYFY!

Glad you're climbing again after your injury duncan, definitely a YYFY!

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#24 Re: Power Klub 399 6th - 22nd Oct
October 24, 2017, 02:09:28 pm
Monday Torbryan with Kenny. Knackered 4th day on just did 5 pitches up to 7a+.
Tuesday rest
Wednesday bunker
Thursday
Friday morning session at the Bunker
Saturday repeaters on Beastmaker
Sunday rest

Lovely weather, but family stuff and lack of available partners meant not much climbing. Possibly feeling a little stronger on indoor problems, but right shoulder suffering a bit. Probably not been doing enough opposition work.

 

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