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mixed grade sport - europe (Read 3381 times)

bendavison

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mixed grade sport - europe
October 19, 2017, 09:09:13 pm
Sorry if this has come up many times before, but I couldn't find that much on it.

Does anyone have any recommendations of crags/sectors/areas in Europe with quality sport routes from 6a up to 8bish? Ideally with lots of 6a-b. I can't think of many, and most have few or low quality 6s.

Cheers!

petejh

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#1 Re: mixed grade sport - europe
October 19, 2017, 09:26:45 pm
I've just returned from a trip to Asturias ('roca verde') where we climbed in the Valle du Trubia area. There's loads of quality climbing in those grades 6a-b to 8b. All styles too - slab, short bouldery, long tufas, big caves, long walls, multi-pitch.

jwi

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#2 Re: mixed grade sport - europe
October 19, 2017, 09:51:59 pm
Gorges du Tarn is one of the best for that. Céüse must be OK as well? Buoux have good but not so user friendly 6s.

Leftfield: Montserrat.

ghisino

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#3 Re: mixed grade sport - europe
October 19, 2017, 09:58:49 pm
two italian destinations.

Finale Ligure.
large area packed with quality moderates, very reminiscent of buoux but far less polished (and less heavily sandbagged).
routes above 7b are often of high quality although you won't find big hardcore crags, the routes tend to be short and bouldery, and they will definitely be sandbagged - more than the easier ones!!!
google hyaena, viaggio nel futuro, belgarath for video examples...
bonus: very easy to find quality 6b's close enough to your 8a/b project that you can walk back and forth..

never been to oltrefinale: supposed to be more "contemporary" and reminiscent of steep tufa crags à la St Léger. easier to onsight, less sandbagged, less "peculiar". Which is exactly why i never bothered, as i already go to st leg at least once a year.


Sperlonga
nice venue for the coldest months.
it offers a cool cave with harder propositions on tufas and pockets, many slabby/vertical crags with easier routes on rock so sharp that you look for the "polished" routes, a cool sea crag (gaeta).
very warm, good food, reasonable accomodation.

jwi

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#4 Re: mixed grade sport - europe
October 20, 2017, 08:14:23 pm
Sector Raco de Misa in Montsant has plenty of good 6s and Hydrophobia is a very classic 8b. There are a number of routes in the 8s on the steep part of the crag.

SA Chris

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#5 Re: mixed grade sport - europe
October 20, 2017, 09:20:53 pm
Céüse must be OK as well?

Was my first thought too. Some sectors have a lot of good sixish stuff. Tend to be concentrated I certain sectors though. How many is "lots"

Ged

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#6 Re: mixed grade sport - europe
October 25, 2017, 07:20:17 am
Kalymnos is brilliant for mixed grade crags. 
Ceuse likewise, although only really starting at 6c
Chateauvert has quality 5.s and 6's, and good up to 7c ish but not much harder
Mont Dauphin/Rue Des Masque was superb I thought for both.

duncan

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#7 Re: mixed grade sport - europe
October 25, 2017, 08:22:56 am
13 years ago I spent a week at Siurana and environs, had a great time despite barely climbing harder than 6b. I hear there are one or two 8bs as well. The easy routes are a bit more worn now, and the place is a lot more popular, but if you avoid public holidays it could still be very enjoyable for all.

T_B

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#8 Re: mixed grade sport - europe
October 25, 2017, 09:19:05 am
Espadelles, Margalef felt like the best sector I've been to for a full mix of grades. Good 6s literally right next to amazing looking 8b+s.

nik at work

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#9 Re: mixed grade sport - europe
October 25, 2017, 05:29:37 pm
 :agree: I was also going to suggest Margalef.

 

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