[shark]

11.7-8

M. PM Systems board aerocap

T.

W. PM Crag X. Good conditions. Short attempt at Pink Indians. Sacked it off - too hard. Worked on Moffatrocity. Got a better link than last time of middle section into JR

T.

F. PM In Devon. Lovely afternoon but wound up. Went to Bovey Woods / Bearacleave to check out the bouldering. Spent time on the highball 6B on the Big Bearacleave boulder going up and down but didn't commit. Checked out Red October 7A. Was scrittly, looked hard and with potential to brain yourself on the tree. Moved on to another secor and tried Breadcrumb Trail 6B but could scarcely get off the ground. I suck on granite.     

S.

S. AM Wrights Rock. Tried the Sloper Problem 7A (again) and Fingers 7A. Didnt get very far on either. Eve Systems board AeroCap

Too fat, too busy, too crap

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - rest.
Tue - rest.
Wed - weights, explosive pull ups 8 x 4.
Thu - dumbbell complex x 4. Very tired.
Fri - rest.
Sat - basketball. Better than one year ago!
Sun - very achey. Weights, overhead barbell walk 46 kg x 1' x 3. Shoulder barbell walk 30" x 2. I am very happy.

This past one was the last week of my period of commuting to work, and I'm glad it's over. Again very tiring but also very rewarding in terms of professional satisfaction.
Time to get back on a more consistent track.

[tomtom]

Too fat, too busy, too crap

You da man Sharkio.. keep it up...

Mon: Depot a Parc du Trafford. I've not trained volume for ages. Possibly years - but feeling a bit creaky on the 'bows, decided to do all the blues (V3's or less)... took about 90 min and annoyingly there was one I couldnt do. Felt done in. Drive to Shropshire for field course..

Tu: Shepherding around a group of students in the field (and occasionally imparting what I perceived to be useful bits of information to them) as is part of my job. Weather was good, walk was nice, students fine, coffee disappointing.

We: Morning of field course that over-ran meaning I missed a nesscliff opportunity - so ended up back at the Depot... Felt GOOD. Made progress - GOOD progress on a problem I've been working on the 30 for the last few weeks. Just the last move to do now...

Th: Looking after the boy day. Knackered.

Fr: Climbing day! Except the boy had a shocking nights sleep and I didnt make it out of the house until 10. Made it to Rubicon with about 15 min before Kudos was scorched by the october sunshine... quick warm up - couple of burns - not happening. Similar on the Press.. Decided it was time to call it a day on my Rubicon visits for 2017... see how I am next summer if I'm any stronger. To be fair to myself I've made progress last and this summer - so see what happens in 2018...

All season I've been fondling the holds on Johnny G and thinking 'hmm my fingers fit really well in that crimp/shit slot thing'... so finally decided to try and pull on. Couldnt take both feet off the deck :D Had a quick season ending romp up A Bigger Tail (which went first time) and left.......

Sa: I've absolutely no idea... Oh, MrsTT's birthday. Lunch out etc.. then she had some friends over in the evening and went out so I was on baby duty again...

Su: A day out again - except the weather was a bit shit. I was able to get out at 12, but really didnt fancy the schlep across to the peak with all the weekend A6/Snake traffic etc.. so went Lancs... which was very much the wrong call. Peak dry (ish). Lancs Wer (very). Ended up at Wilton 1 where the Graveyard and Snakey B were dry.. After some effort managed all variations of Snakey B (not sure if I've done original or not before...) and worked all the moves on THULSA DOOM (not sure why caps there but hey..) but didn't link as I only had one large mat (its a mid height 7A+ traverse). Then moved to 'the move' on the Graveyard - and VERY frustratingly wrapped a significant enough part of my hand around the final hold twice but did not hold on (it was slimy and scrittly..)...

[TobyD]

11.7-8

F. PM In Devon. Lovely afternoon but wound up. Went to Bovey Woods / Bearacleave to check out the bouldering. Spent time on the highball 6B on the Big Bearacleave boulder going up and down but didn't commit. Checked out Red October 7A. Was scrittly, looked hard and with potential to brain yourself on the tree. Moved on to another secor and tried Breadcrumb Trail 6B but could scarcely get off the ground. I suck on granite.     

Too fat, too busy, too crap

Moor bouldering, just not that great is it? Doesn't sound like you had a good afternoon...

[duncan]

STG - 170 degree shoulder flexion. Slabby indoor climbing. Soon.
MTG - easy outdoor climbing by end-October.
LTG - tbc

396

M: ‘Pick-ups’ R: 35kg, L: 20kg
T:
W:
T: ‘Pick-ups’ R: 35kg, L: 22.5kg
F:
S:
S: ‘Pick-ups’ L: 25kg. R elbow feeling a little tweaky so stopped at 25kg

Left shoulder elevation = ~160 degrees.

397

M:
T: ‘Pick-ups’ L: 25kg. Saw new physio. Not a climber but clued-in to late stage sports rehab. Very happy with progress, added shoulder strength exercises with the arm in elevation, and outlined progression as far as easy climbing.
W: Side planks, front planks, half press-ups, cuff exercises in elevation.
T: ‘Pick-ups’ L: 27.5kg (18mm edge)
F: Side planks, front planks, half press-ups, cuff exercises in elevation.
S: Pick-ups’ L: 30kg. Foot-on pull-ups x5.
S: Side planks, front planks, half press-ups, cuff exercises in elevation. Cycling with the lad.

Left shoulder stretches, easy theraband work daily. Left shoulder elevation = ~165 degrees.


Injury recovery occurs in fits and spurts, and the last two weeks have been good ones. Steady progress on the shoulder flexibility. It now feels more ‘stable’ than pre-injury, but still a little limiting in flexibilty. Great feeling to do a few easy foot-on pull-ups and to be able to cycle with the lad again. 

Plan: slabby, easy bouldering end of this week or beginning of next. Resume fingerboard pick-ups with R. hand as well as left with at least two full days rest between each session. Try very gentle (low% bodyweight) fingerboard hangs. Push for another 10 degrees flexibility but let the last 5 degrees come back of it’s own accord, if at all.

[Coops_13]

STG: Heal finger, get back training
MTG: 7C

M - T: Prague with work
F:
S: Raven Tor, warmed up and did Weedkiller Traverse 7A+ v quickly. Too many sessions over the years. Also did Basher's Problem 7A and worked Peverse Reverse into Basher's. Went to Tom's Roof, good tunes and scene. Almost did Power Allowance 7B, should go next time. Psyched.
S: Hungover attempt at climbing. Fails on Zaff Scokzylas, Breakfast, Flying Arete....

Back on the training this week

[Nutty]

Weight: 69.5kg

STG: Train more regularly, sub-45 min 10k in training, climb outdoors more
MTG: Sub-90 min half marathon, 7A something
LTG: TBC

M: Rest.
T: Run. 7.2km at 4:22/km average pace.
W: Garden board session. Had forgotten to recharge the lamp so had to do half the session in the relative gloom of my headtorch. Did some stretching between efforts on the board.
T: Rest.
F: Rest.
S: Parents visited for the weekend at short notice.
S: Sunday lunch with the family. Little boy was spectacularly sick in the evening before going to bed so spent most the evening doing cleaning and washing instead of the planned training.

Third poor week in a row. Running is going ok but need to get more runs in each week. Not doing enough climbing training either. Need to get more stretching in as my flexibility is really poor at the moment. At least I've not crocked myself by over-doing it!

[36chambers]

M:
T: Indoors. 30 board. Made some winter projs replicas, didn't do them which is good.
W:
T: Indoors. Worked 30 replicas and made a 50 board equivalent. Didn't link any of them, but can just do the individual moves alright, which seems a good level of difficulty. Hoping to have 5 problems, that take some effort to do, with the aim to knock them out back to back eventually. 
F:
S: Peak weekend. Rain day -> Raven Tor. Second time there after visiting 4 years ago. First time on Ben's Roof, took a while to figure out the moves, then puntered off missing the blind move to the LH jug at the bottom of the 6C finish. Having now looked at some videos, it's become apparent I was using a pretty poor sequence. Managed to retro flash Weedkiller having failed on the first moves previously.   
S: Hangover. Eventually made it to Burbage North. Climbed Zaff Skoczylas 7B+ quickly and had a few goes on the grim low start before realising thuggy, dabby, clamping was a poor choice for a hangover. Climbed Remergence Start and Hanging Rib (which is excellent) and fat-fingered the slot on Blind Date a few times. Wouldn't mind going back to try Blind Fig when it's colder, it looks sweet. 

[nai]

11.7-8

F. PM In Devon. Lovely afternoon but wound up. Went to Bovey Woods / Bearacleave to check out the bouldering. Spent time on the highball 6B on the Big Bearacleave boulder going up and down but didn't commit. Checked out Red October 7A. Was scrittly, looked hard and with potential to brain yourself on the tree. Moved on to another secor and tried Breadcrumb Trail 6B but could scarcely get off the ground. I suck on granite.     

Too fat, too busy, too crap

Moor bouldering, just not that great is it? Doesn't sound like you had a good afternoon...

I liked the area around Swansong, that and Mornington Crescent are excellent and there's a load of other wothwhile stuff that make a good circuit.  Might (hopefully) be just not being used to granite but I found it all quite tricky, everything took a lot longer than expected and grades were lower than hoped.

[GazM]

Morning all. This is my first time reporting in to Power Club after lurking for a while. Our new arrival was born three weeks ago so I'm now more time-poor, house-bound and training orientated than before so might as well keep a log to see how things go.

STG - Local(ish) boulder problems: Red Handed @ Reiff in Woods, Potential Seven @ Torridon, The Universal @ Kishorn and developing more of the local choss.
MTG - 7B+, Goat Crag Prow LH 7c
LTG - A Torridon 7C

M - nothing
T - board session in the shed, 1.5 hours on 4-5 move problems, working through some of my classics and then trying a couple of projects.
W - nothing
Th - 30 mins on the beastmaker before work, 10sec deadhangs on various holds, working up to 5 x 10 secs on the small edges.
F - Bus Boulder, Inchbae. First visit since the spring so gave it a wee scrub, warmed up, re-did Wormhole 6C and started looking at the project. Finally worked out how it will climb and think it will be pleasingly tricky. The top needs more of a clean.
Bus Boulder by Gareth Marshall, on Flickr
Sat - board session, getting close to one of the projects and trying to re-do one of the classics now I've changed to shittier footholds. Felt pretty good.
Sun - nothing

[yetix]

STG: resolve finger issues (seem to be getting better)
MTG: Captain Hook, Bovine, Electrical Storm
LTG: Brad Pit, and la Fuente (stand)

64.5kg (was much lighter sunday morning but I went to the cinema and ate way to much  )

M: Rest
T: Moonboard at rockover
W: Moonboard at rockover followed by some front lever work (managed to get a project on there done which was nice)
T: went to the clinic in sheffield for more shockwave therapy
F: Moonboard at rockover
S: went on a massive hike around the roaches and luds church
S: Burbage, came close on breakfast and famous grouse stand felt promising if it was a little cooler. Also destroyed my skin coming off the top of monochrome (I guess same again next week)

[shark]

11.7-8

F. PM In Devon. Lovely afternoon but wound up. Went to Bovey Woods / Bearacleave to check out the bouldering. Spent time on the highball 6B on the Big Bearacleave boulder going up and down but didn't commit. Checked out Red October 7A. Was scrittly, looked hard and with potential to brain yourself on the tree. Moved on to another secor and tried Breadcrumb Trail 6B but could scarcely get off the ground. I suck on granite.     

Too fat, too busy, too crap

Moor bouldering, just not that great is it? Doesn't sound like you had a good afternoon...

It was nice to explore the woods and it was lovely weather but I think the climbing would be an acquired taste for me. Think if I went back Id ensure I'd have a  spotter too and lower my grade expectaions - probably to 6A.

[nai]

stg - sort iffy finger out, start 6 month plan

M - 5 sets on new easy circuit, managed 3-4 minutes per set. Weights

t - Embankment.
Odd day:

6b dogged
7a dogged
7b flash
7a dogged
7a+ dogged
7a+ dogged

w rest

Th - massage

F - nowt

S - weights & TRX

S  nowt

[Duma]

Goals:
Get out more
More 8A's
8b

Body Audit: Right shoulder stalled, still doing the rehab b ut not sure what else to try.
Sleep: good.
70kg.

M: TCA, half assed session, not much acheived
T: out for gf bday
W: TCA, didn't have long, started out similar to Monday but made a breakthrough on a few reds which was a nice confidence boost, though they were all vert ones so doesn't say much re training. 6 to go.
T: parenting
F: parenting
S: parenting
S: parenting

Meh.

[T_B]

M - Autobelays x 10 inc new lines in Furnace 5 - 7a flashed
T - Lunch run. PM 3 x 8 pull ups, 4 x 8 press ups. Lame, I know.
W - Lunch deadhanging. 2 x 6 x 7 front 4, front 3, half crimped. 2 x 10 sec middle 2 hangs.
T - Lunch run. Slightly tweaky right middle finger and a bit tired from overcooking lunch run. So nowt pm.
F - Lunch run. Early pm, 45 mins on board.
S -
S - Day hit to Kentmere with Dave and John. Lovely weather, though cool and breezy low down turned to a bit hot and moist the further up the hill you went (it had clearly rained A LOT the day before). Warm ups, The Hole (they flashed it, took me 10 goes), loads of goes at Karma of Trees (Dave did it pretty comfortably once he'd sussed the left foot hold, I never even slapped the 'jug' properly), Torniquet (team shut down, didn't like the weirdness of the moves and it just felt desperate/hot), Runs on Weasel after 10 goes, Reverence after 10 goes. Generally climbing like a spanner, not sure I can keeping blaming the 'new' boots 

Knackered. Thinking of taking a week off climbing. Fingers feel a bit tweaky, absolutely boxed at end of yesterday.
Big hamster improvement. So nice to run in the week.

[Bradders]

STG - Tourniquet
MTG - week off in October and two weeks off before Christmas. Hoping to finish off a couple of grit projects, notably Jason's Roof at Crookrise and Low Rider at Stanage
LTG - too many projects to list here.

With a combination of a cold and half reasonable temps arriving I decided to just rest and project this week.

M - rest, felt terrible with a cold
T - Kentmere, Tourniquet. Had to change my sequence, yet again, due to seepage onto a crucial foothold. Turns out the new sequence is considerably more reliable albeit more powerful. New high point going for the last hard move. Unfortunately due to showery weather only managed two goes from the start. Good session considering still felt a bit rough.
W - rest
T - Crookrise. Warmed up on Starsky Arete which is very good, then flashed both variants of Sadcocs Wall. Spent the next 2/3 hours on Jason's. So much better than when I last tried it in March. Every move easier, albeit mid-section still feeling non-optimal.
F - rest, did some stretching and yoga in the evening.
S - cold back with a vengeance, felt terrible all day so watched lots of Game of Thrones.
S - Kentmere, Tourniquet ( T_B). Did all the moves nice and quick on the warm up. Full of confidence but something didn't quite click and I fell over and over again on the crux move to the RH sloper. One of these days... in fairness I still felt ill and it was warm again, so I've plenty of excuses at least.

[tomtom]

Big hamster improvement. So nice to run in the week.

Im racking my brain thinking of what autocorrect this is for...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Fiend]

Sun - nothing avoiding Steve Perry's Highland bolt fund supporting BBQ at Inverness 

[TobyD]

Monday Torbryan? I think! I'll check my scrap diary later
Tuesday bunker repeaters
Wednesday Torbryan with Matt
Thursday rest
Friday Beastmaker and rings at the Bunker
Saturday short repeaters session at home (6 sets), followed by a 5 mile walk
Sunday Torbryan ticked some more worthwhile link ups


Not enough rest but feeling fit and slightly stronger.

[GazM]

Sun - nothing avoiding Steve Perry's Highland bolt fund supporting BBQ at Inverness 

Sun - looking after my 3 week old son 

Did you go? I hear they got £200, so better than nowt.
I gave cash to IanT and Andy Wilby a while back so my conscience feels clean

[Murph]

Cheers Shark.
Duncan - keep up the hard rehab work! I was thinking of your mishap this week.

Week 2 of 10 week plan
Goals consistency strongness lightness
67.1 -> 67.3

Not as good as week 1. Shoulder impingement and cake.

M-
T-5k z4 run (the dreaded z4 - wasted miles, neither one thing nor the other), S&S kettlebells, easy wall session - yellows/5s
W-slight shoulder tweak
T-7k z4 run, medium wall session (yellow-murple 6s), shoulder not good
F-officially can't lift arm above head without pain. Classic shoulder impingement. Why I haven't taken prehab more seriously I don't know.
S-
S-5k z3 run (z3 is "aerobic" and is what most runs should be apparently). Child's 4th birthday. Ate all the cake.

So...pretty lackluster week. Achieved none of the goals. Better make more use of the next 8 weeks or the "achieve ultimate form" 10 week arse kicking is going to end up a bit of a joke. Still can't move arm properly. I need to do a lot of corrective exercises! It's got something to do with imbalances and scapula not retracting, lats not firing, stuff like that.

[TobyD]

Monday Torbryan? I think! I'll check my scrap diary later

No I rested apparently. Trying to get outside more this week

[TobyD]

STG - 170 degree shoulder flexion. Slabby indoor climbing. Soon.
MTG - easy outdoor climbing by end-October.
LTG - tbc

If you want to come down south for some easy Devon trad let me know!

[measles23]

STG: Climb rock, lift metal
MTG: maybe Grand Theft/GTA at roaches as winter proj, 240kg DL
LTG: 8B, be half as strong as Eddie Hall

70.6kg 

M- Nil
T- Pleasant stolen session at Roaches on Grand Theft; just in connies despite sunshine; got some decent links and looking forward to coming back when it gets cold..
W- Nil
T- Max hangs on BM micros: 8 sets up to (+25kg x 5s) x 3
DL: 10 sets up to 200 x 5 followed by (200 x 3) x 3; heavy DL 5s = harder than p company, but still felt I had a little left in the tank.. Peak set tunes = Deathwish by Architects
F- Nil
S- birthday party at the wall but didn't climb
S- Stoke AW 2 hrs problems up to V6ish; felt fluid but heavy..

[Fiend]

Sun - looking after my 3 week old son 

Did you go? I hear they got £200, so better than nowt.
I gave cash to IanT and Andy Wilby a while back so my conscience feels clean

He'd have loved it. Maybe. Well supported anyway. Murdo was there bbqing salad. I went cos Steve's a nice guy, put my fair share into the coffers (especially considering my petrol costs), but on the condition it was used to debolt Farrletter 

Got a couple of nice routes done at Ashie beforehand too.

[Luke Owens]

I'll make a return. Hadn't logged anything in months due to no training, basically just sport climbed over summer. Started training again now which feels good.

Managed one of my Little Orme projects a couple of months back, cheers to Pete H for all the belays!



M: First time out bouldering with our daughter. She's 18months now so pretty mobile... Good little session at Nant Y Fedw near Tremadog after the boggy approach! Did "Corbyn Youth Surge" (7A) 4th go and flashed the 2 6B+'s.



T: 1on 2off Aerocap for 10mins
Max Hangs - 
4 x 10s on 30mm/20mm half crimp alternate arms
3 x 10s on 20mm open crimp

W: Lunch - Core/Antags

T: Lunch - Core/Antags

Eve: Boardroom - Easy problems for warm up, limit bouldering for 90mins and 30mins on the moonboard.

F: Day spent as a groundie dragging and chipping brash

S: Rest

S: 1on 1off Aerocap for 10mins
4 x 10s on 30mm/20mm half crimp alternate arms
1 x 10s on 20mm open crimp

[fried]

2 week check in, not much has happened. Weather poor, too much work. Tired and run down.

Week 1 - 2 OK indoor session, though one cut short due to having sore throat and feeling out of sorts.

Week 2 - 1 Ok session, Wednesday my car got vandalised in my car park, lots of hassle with police reports and insurance company. Friday, came down to check the car, 5 kids were sitting in it! They ran off sharpish, but lots of ongoing negotiations about installing security cameras. Luckily hadn't left my mat in the car. Ok session on Sunday.

Meh... 1 oudoor session in 5 weeks. Not sleeping well, wondering if I should sleep in the car with a shotgun.

Normal poor service will be resumed soon.

On a better note my improved financially status means I've been looking at decent HiFi stuff for the first time in a long time.

[Wood FT]

mon -
tue - Ansteys, short go on a wet Cider Soak, new and interesting beta. Still feels 8c. Empire with a hang, not feeling as fit.
wed -
thu - Fingerboard, 7a. Brushed the 45s with a wire brush, cheating but at least I can hang them now.
fri -
sat - London drinkin'
sun - London hangin'

Off the pace

[Wood FT]

I'll make a return. Hadn't logged anything in months due to no training, basically just sport climbed over summer. Started training again now which feels good.

Managed one of my Little Orme projects a couple of months back, cheers to Pete H for all the belays!



M: First time out bouldering with our daughter. She's 18months now so pretty mobile... Good little session at Nant Y Fedw near Tremadog after the boggy approach! Did "Corbyn Youth Surge" (7A) 4th go and flashed the 2 6B+'s.



T: 1on 2off Aerocap for 10mins
Max Hangs - 
4 x 10s on 30mm/20mm half crimp alternate arms
3 x 10s on 20mm open crimp

W: Lunch - Core/Antags

T: Lunch - Core/Antags

Eve: Boardroom - Easy problems for warm up, limit bouldering for 90mins and 30mins on the moonboard.

F: Day spent as a groundie dragging and chipping brash

S: Rest

S: 1on 1off Aerocap for 10mins
4 x 10s on 30mm/20mm half crimp alternate arms
1 x 10s on 20mm open crimp

your route looks good Luke, what's the scene with getting into this venue? I have a half memory of reading somewhere you have to ab in?

[petejh]

If you go you'll see lots of shiny new via-ferrata ladder rungs down the 8m approach wall.. Easiest to abb in (rope is in place) and climb the rungs out. The bolt fairies haven't quite finished their work -  5 more rungs to go in at the bottom, maybe this weekend if they can get away from startling young children at the bottom of the garden.

[Doylo]

Good work PeteJh

[Wood FT]

If you go you'll see lots of shiny new via-ferrata ladder rungs down the 8m approach wall.. Easiest to abb in (rope is in place) and climb the rungs out. The bolt fairies haven't quite finished their work -  5 more rungs to go in at the bottom, maybe this weekend if they can get away from startling young children at the bottom of the garden.

 

[petejh]

Good work PeteJh

I was climbing there today on my 8b proj - it's 3*mega, has kneebars in a roof and everything, with my pad on I felt like you for a minute... Bobbins is gonna crush the cave projs 

[lagerstarfish]

not a great week (current week is worse) - but the Friday on grit made it worthwhile

M - lifting stuff to 150kg and TRX wobbling
Tu - tried soloing easy routes on grit, but swollen toe made this too painful to be fun. after 5 routes went fishing instead - couple of small pike then it went very quiet. However I did bump into the legendary Stuart Crofts (fishing/entomology wad) and had a cup of tea and some awesome pork pie with him
W - nothing
Th - easy gym, joints hurting
Fr - bad sore throat. Plantation with Big Ed - big toe joints on left foot very painful, so standing on holds was hard (despite stacking pain killers and vitamin I). ankle on right foot swollen and painful so walking was hard. obvious solution was to stick to steeper stuff, so did laps on bullworker, steep traverse, sloper traverse and edited highlights of green traverse variants - whilst helping Ed sort his beta on these. best day on grit for ages.
Sa - throat worse, DIY etc
Su - new lego film at cinema with kids

[measles23]

Su - new lego film at cinema with kids

Is it awesome?? 

[lagerstarfish]

Su - new lego film at cinema with kids

Is it awesome?? 

ninjatastic, rather than awesome - the boy (6) loved it

prompted me to get all 5 series of Samurai Jack to watch with him