[Charlton Chestwig]

Hi
Just wondering what people think is the best angle or range of angles for endurance training; doing links from 20move up to half hour burns. I was thinking that 10 deg to 30 deg as per the circuit wall at the depot manc but keen to hear what other people think.
Ta much
Rich

[jwi]

Very much depends on my target angle, but I find it better to err on the steep side. I prefer to do the 15-30 min bouts on 40° walls if I can find one with big enough holds. For specific work, like 20 moves circuits I like to have the same incline as my training targets

[Ged]

30 mins on a 40 degree wall?! Holy crap

[Paul B]

I think the Depot Manchester boards are really pretty good, the RH one for ballooning around on jugs (monopolising the wall somewhat), and the LH board to do similar but on holds that are a lot closer to what I might expect to be pulling on. I've never really used them for anything other than aerocap type stuff mind you.
I find my shoulders get pretty tired on the Rh board which is something I'm mindful of towards the end of a session.

[jwi]

30 mins on a 40 degree wall?! Holy crap

With jugs any mid-grade sport climber should be able to do 15 min, improving that up to 30 min is not difficult. The difficulty is mainly to find a jug-studded 40° board outside of Spain

[Paul B]

I find my shoulders get pretty tired on the Rh board which is something I'm mindful of towards the end of a session.

Does anyone else find this?

The other day I did 4 sets of 5 mins on 5 mins off, foot on campussing towards the end of a session.

The next session (a few days later) my shoulder did something very odd  during my 30-45 mins warming up on problems leaving me with a very sore posterior deltoid; the next day I was in pain getting dressed/changing gear (and I was frantically googling rotator cuff tear tests). Last night I did another foot on campus session and found that by the end of it, the stabilising muscles in my shoulder were perhaps quite tired and everything felt very vulnerable.

As usual I'm fairly nervous of warning signs such as this as my track record isn't great. Being that the summer has now ended and autumn hasn't really arrived, my time spent inside is on the increase but I've been very careful to not get carried away (I'm taking a fair amount of rest between sessions).

[Oldmanmatt]

Do you have trouble reaching for/ pointing at, things? Sudden twinges and/or weakness, difficult to replicate when you try?

The Broom test is useful. Take a broom stick, hold it and your affected arm out straight to your side, parallel to the ground. Without twisting your shoulders or turning your body, move the arm/broom combo through the full range of motion to one side (across your body) and then all the way back until it’s pointing straight out to your side; keeping it parallel to the ground throughout.
Does the broom dip at any point, or can you maintain parallel through the whole movement?
If it dips, you probably have a torn/damaged rotator and the point at which it dips can help to isolate which in particular.

Better still, hit up the Physio and get a more knowledgeable assessment....

[csl]

With jugs any mid-grade sport climber

What is "mid-grade"?

[jwi]

Mid-grade: 7b - 8a? Sportclimbing start at around 6a and goes to 9c. But when I think of it, doing extensive climbing on a 40º wall is probably best from 7c and up.

[AJM]

With jugs any mid-grade sport climber should be able to do 15 min, improving that up to 30 min is not difficult. The difficulty is mainly to find a jug-studded 40° board outside of Spain

I assume when we say jugs here we mean proper "overhanging 5+" level of jugs, not "finger jugs" here?

[jwi]

With jugs any mid-grade sport climber should be able to do 15 min, improving that up to 30 min is not difficult. The difficulty is mainly to find a jug-studded 40° board outside of Spain

I assume when we say jugs here we mean proper "overhanging 5+" level of jugs, not "finger jugs" here?

Jugs as in real jugs, for the hand. The kind where it is OK to climb with gloves

Sent from my HUAWEI VNS-L31 using Tapatalk

[csl]

 

Mid-grade: 7b - 8a? Sportclimbing start at around 6a and goes to 9c. But when I think of it, doing extensive climbing on a 40º wall is probably best from 7c and up.

Thanks, I had assumed you meant around 7c but I'm sure different people would give different answers to that.

[cheque]

I'm sure different people would give different answers to that.

Mid-grade is the most meaningless term in climbing, hence jwi having to ignore quite a few number grades to make his definition sound authoritative.

Virtually every climber thinks they climb in the mid-grades and, in the broadest sense of the term, they’re all right.

[lagerstarfish]

I just misread the title of this thread as "Best algae for endurance training" and rolled my eyes

[Oldmanmatt]

I just misread the title of this thread as "Best algae for endurance training" and rolled my eyes

Cyano.
Obviously.

Duh.