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Yorkshire Dynos (Read 10349 times)

peewee

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#25 Re: Yorkshire Dynos
October 05, 2017, 03:58:43 pm
Forgot about Flight Path Mourning Sickness! even though there's a picture of my ugly mug on it in the YMC guide. Wouldn't say it's eliminate.

Rob F

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#26 Re: Yorkshire Dynos
October 05, 2017, 06:39:21 pm
Surely one mans slap is another mans dyno???

Are we basically saying that we have to go from the starting holds into lunar orbit without any other holds along the way???

The wall right of right of Out of Sight at Bridestones (might) fullfill this criteria...

r-man

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#27 Re: Yorkshire Dynos
October 05, 2017, 07:03:04 pm
Surely one mans slap is another mans dyno???

Are we basically saying that we have to go from the starting holds into lunar orbit without any other holds along the way???


Yes. Simple.

dave

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#28 Re: Yorkshire Dynos
October 05, 2017, 08:38:35 pm
Surely one mans slap is another mans dyno???

Clearly.

Bradders

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#29 Re: Yorkshire Dynos
October 06, 2017, 08:31:18 am
If your other hand stays on then it's not a proper dyno, it's a slap. End of.

Disagree, I think it's more about what your feet are doing, i.e. if both feet are off then you're jumping, which is surely the essence of a dyno. Doesn't matter one jot what your other hand is doing.

Good example would be Leap of Faith in Rocklands. Some people keep their left hand on but there's no way that's not a dyno.

I'll give you, that does rule out Deliverance if done the high foot way. And Fluide.

dave

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#30 Re: Yorkshire Dynos
October 06, 2017, 08:40:56 am
Nah, there's loads of moves in climbing where both feet come off but one comfortably stays on, these are not dynos, they are slaps.

Bradders

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#31 Re: Yorkshire Dynos
October 06, 2017, 08:51:15 am
There are loads more problems on steeper boulders where you launch for a hold and three points come off - that doesn't make them dynos.

I think the second part of the definition takes care of this, i.e. there's usually a physical possibility of doing the move static but it's easier/more efficient to basically deadpoint. Either that or that kind of move simply involves holding a cut loose as opposed to jumping. If you do have to jump though (where your feet are fully off before latching the destination hold), then it's a dyno.

So the definition would be where (1) the move leaves you with either one hand or no points of contact, and/or (2) where there is physically no possibility of doing the move statically.

Stabbsy

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#32 Re: Yorkshire Dynos
October 06, 2017, 09:30:01 am
Jason Myers wrote an article in OTE some years ago (20+ years ago maybe, not long after Brad Pit FA) where he defined different types of dynamic moves. I'll try and find it when I'm back at home as I can't quite remember the details. It was something like 3 points of contact during the move was a slap, 2 points was a jump and 1 point was a dyno. Or maybe no points was a dyno and I'm missing a level somewhere.  Either way, I think I concluded that there's very few Myers dynos out there.

tommytwotone

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#33 Re: Yorkshire Dynos
October 06, 2017, 10:27:50 am
I'll give you, that does rule out Deliverance if done the high foot way...


Speak for yourself...never got any further than tickling the top with my hand but I was definitely all points of contact off!


Will Hunt

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#34 Re: Yorkshire Dynos
October 06, 2017, 10:54:19 am
Can a mod just rename this post to Yorkshire Dynamics and can get back on track?

I would quite like to see that mag article though.

nic mullin

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#35 Re: Yorkshire Dynos
October 06, 2017, 11:01:31 am
Jason Myers wrote an article in OTE some years ago (20+ years ago maybe, not long after Brad Pit FA) where he defined different types of dynamic moves. I'll try and find it when I'm back at home as I can't quite remember the details. It was something like 3 points of contact during the move was a slap, 2 points was a jump and 1 point was a dyno. Or maybe no points was a dyno and I'm missing a level somewhere.  Either way, I think I concluded that there's very few Myers dynos out there.

Quality article...I'll definitely wad anyone who can find a copy and stick a scan up here.

I think it went:

3 points on - slap
2 points - lunge
1 point - jump
all points off - dyno

He gave examples of each type of move (mostly that people commonly called the wrong thing by his nomenclature) with harsh commentary as to why people called them dynos - "there's no move in existence where you can keep 3 points of contact that can't be done statically...unless you're too weak or technically inept"... or something along those lines.

For me deliverance is a bit borderline - I think my right hand usually comes off the sidepull, but I don't think it needs to. I doubt it's much more than five feet between the sidepull and the top, so should be reachable by most people. It is definitely not in Yorkshire though so  :offtopic:

andy_e

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#36 Re: Yorkshire Dynos
October 06, 2017, 11:11:16 am
Also, if anybody can confound the matter by finding the video of Ian Vickers mantling a dyno in the world cup, that would also be appreciated.

Stabbsy

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#37 Re: Yorkshire Dynos
October 06, 2017, 11:48:18 am
Also, if anybody can confound the matter by finding the video of Ian Vickers mantling a dyno in the world cup, that would also be appreciated.
Are you sure it was a World Cup? I think I saw it the other day in Hard Plastic (extra on Hard Grit DVD) from the FIBO. Some of the finest climbing commentary I've ever heard...

andy_e

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#38 Re: Yorkshire Dynos
October 06, 2017, 11:52:04 am
Ah, that's it! I'd love to see it again!

Edit: yessss

Footwork

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#39 Re: Yorkshire Dynos
October 15, 2017, 12:11:25 pm
Don't think you've had guacamole at Caley

Rob F

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#40 Re: Yorkshire Dynos
October 17, 2017, 07:36:39 pm
Hope this a bit clearer???

Soss it's big photos / when I upload medium size photo it goes all funny.

Could someone delete the blurry stuff above???











« Last Edit: October 17, 2017, 08:04:18 pm by Rob F »

Will Hunt

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#41 Re: Yorkshire Dynos
October 17, 2017, 08:24:21 pm
Thanks for taking the time, Rob :bow:

nic mullin

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#42 Re: Yorkshire Dynos
October 17, 2017, 10:00:36 pm
Thanks Rob, it's as good as I remember it being! Duly wadded.

36chambers

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#43 Re: Yorkshire Dynos
October 18, 2017, 10:17:43 am
I genuinely thought the dyno method for Brad Pit was from matched on the start rail straight to the jug.

andy_e

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#44 Re: Yorkshire Dynos
October 18, 2017, 10:28:26 am
I love how the last move gets a grade on its own. I might go to Stanage just to tick that move. Getting to that move might be tricky though...


 

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