[Will Hunt]

While we're at it, could we have a graded list of dynos in Yorkshire? Only to include those things where the easiest solution is a dyno and it's not eliminate in any way (so, Ed's Dyno and Black Wall Dyno at the Cliff are out). I'm struggling to think of many.

Clubber Lang (6C) - Ilkley

The Vault (6C+) - Shipley Glen

English Rose (7A+) - Twin Towers (Colsterdale)

Who Are We Without Moon (7A+) - Baildon

Andy Brown's Wall (7B) - Earl Crag (Is this a dyno?)

Fluide (7C) - Brimham (Crow Crag)

Robbed at Dunn Point (7C) - Eavestone

Big Kicks (7C) - Lord's Seat

Clutch (?) - Guisecliff

[peewee]

Sloping Beauty, Earl
Backdraft, Scout Hut

[Will Hunt]

Backdraft, Scout Hut

What's that, Pete? I can only see a Backfire at Scout Hut.

Nearly forgot The Titfield Thunderbolt at Brimham. 7B+ I think.

[36chambers]

A little Sparkle (7A) - Guisecliff

The Real Boom Bap (7A) - on the virgin boulder. Although it technically eliminates the holds on the 8B or whatever it is that goes up that part of the face.

I'd argue that Black Wall Dyno isn't eliminate, since the non dyno way takes a big loop out left.

is Doris Direct (7B+?) at Ilkley a dyno? I've only ever seen a picture of it and I'm not sure whether it's a big move or a dyno. Although I don't really know what a dyno is nowadays, all points of contact off?

[Rob F]

There's loads: Throttle Stop at Crookrise and the Dunning ones at slipstones are particularly memorable...

[Will Hunt]

Did the Real Boom Bap today and it's surprisingly decent and not really an eliminate (and it's actually worth 7A, if not maybe more; loads harder than Clubber Lang). You go to the break straight up from the starting block. Expect some backwards rolls down the hill if you miss while your spotter isn't looking.

[peewee]

Backdraft, Scout Hut

What's that, Pete? I can only see a Backfire at Scout Hut.

Nearly forgot The Titfield Thunderbolt at Brimham. 7B+ I think.

My bad, yes its Backfire.

Other one to add the classic dyno on the Calf at Ilkely?

[Fiend]

A Little Sparkle is more like falling off but catching the top that the same time. I can't dyno but I did it. Bloody great problem

[Will Hunt]

I had thought of the Calf Dyno but it is really eliminate. When you start looking for stuff where the natural way to climb it is to dyno the list becomes much slimmer.

A Little Sparkle (not done it yet) looks more like a pop. Andy Brown's Wall is a throw/slap. Not true dynos but how many true dynos are there really?

Is Morning Sickness at Clattering Stones an eliminate?

Also to add to the list is The Oyster Catcher at Sigsworth Crags.

[nik at work]

Flight Path at Mytholm.

[Rob F]

Some good air on Jumpers Dyno at Brimham so long as you're not being too rhadamanthine...

[peewee]

Forgot about Flight Path! even though there's a picture of my ugly mug on it in the YMC guide. Wouldn't say it's eliminate.

[fatneck]

Morning Sickness at Clattering Stones

[Will Hunt]

Some good air on Jumpers Dyno at Brimham so long as you're not being too rhadamanthine...

No eliminates, Rob 

[Bradders]

Andy Brown's Wall is a throw/slap.

Andy Brown's is definitely a dyno for anyone under six foot. I'm 5' 11" and had to jump with three points off to latch it.

Suppose it'd be best to get a definition. For me it's anything where (1) the move leaves you with either one or no points of contact, and/or (2) where there is physically no possibility of doing the move statically.

Feel if it were just (1) then things like Deliverance, Fluide, etc. would be left out, which doesn't feel right.

[Bradders]

Andy Brown's Wall is a throw/slap.

Andy Brown's is definitely a dyno for anyone under six foot. I'm 5' 11" and had to jump with three points off to latch it.

Suppose it'd be best to get a definition. For me it's anything where (1) the move leaves you with either one or no points of contact, and/or (2) where there is physically no possibility of doing the move statically.

Feel if it were just (1) then things like Deliverance, Fluide, etc. would be left out, which doesn't feel right.

[Rob F]

Ha ha ha- Leaning Block Art at Flasby is a good one...

[Rob F]

Are we counting horizontal dynos or is it just vertical???

Colossal Velocity at Rolling Gate...

[Rob F]

Solid Air- Eastby...

[r-man]

Andy Brown's Wall is a throw/slap.

Andy Brown's is definitely a dyno for anyone under six foot. I'm 5' 11" and had to jump with three points off to latch it.

Suppose it'd be best to get a definition. For me it's anything where (1) the move leaves you with either one or no points of contact, and/or (2) where there is physically no possibility of doing the move statically.

Feel if it were just (1) then things like Deliverance, Fluide, etc. would be left out, which doesn't feel right.

Deliverance isn't a dyno (if you do it the techy way). Andy Brown's is a big move, but not a dyno. There are loads more problems on steeper boulders where you launch for a hold and three points come off - that doesn't make them dynos.

[andy popp]

Suppose it'd be best to get a definition. For me it's anything where (1) the move leaves you with either one or no points of contact, and/or (2) where there is physically no possibility of doing the move statically.

I can think of two routes where the crux involved a one-legged, hands free stand-up move (both were off vertical). Definitely didn't feel like dynos.

[moose]

Who Are We Without Moon and Sloping Beauty - are they really dynos? To my mind, they are not violent enough - more teetery, balancy deadpoints where your weight is entirelly supported until the very last milliseconds.  Admittedly, I'm 6'3", so often lank moves that other people have to pop for, but I am also an incredibly "slow twitch" climber - I am entirely incapable of genuine dynamic movement.  If those problems were dynos, I would not have done them - my limit for genuine dynos is around v3!

[dave]

If your other hand stays on then it's not a proper dyno, it's a slap. End of.

Hence Andy Brown's Wall isn't a dyno. Deliverance isn't if done the high foot way, could be the original way but I can't remember if right hand actually comes off. Things like Hurricane at Curbar aren't dynos either, neither is Sloping Beauty at Earl.

[tomtom]

I thought only shorties had to take both hands off?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[andy_e]

Things like Hurricane at Curbar aren't dynos either

Thank you for the excuse to pull out this beauty again.

[peewee]

Forgot about Flight Path Mourning Sickness! even though there's a picture of my ugly mug on it in the YMC guide. Wouldn't say it's eliminate.

[Rob F]

Surely one mans slap is another mans dyno???

Are we basically saying that we have to go from the starting holds into lunar orbit without any other holds along the way???

The wall right of right of Out of Sight at Bridestones (might) fullfill this criteria...

[r-man]

Surely one mans slap is another mans dyno???

Are we basically saying that we have to go from the starting holds into lunar orbit without any other holds along the way???

Yes. Simple.

[dave]

Surely one mans slap is another mans dyno???

Clearly.

[Bradders]

If your other hand stays on then it's not a proper dyno, it's a slap. End of.

Disagree, I think it's more about what your feet are doing, i.e. if both feet are off then you're jumping, which is surely the essence of a dyno. Doesn't matter one jot what your other hand is doing.

Good example would be Leap of Faith in Rocklands. Some people keep their left hand on but there's no way that's not a dyno.

I'll give you, that does rule out Deliverance if done the high foot way. And Fluide.

[dave]

Nah, there's loads of moves in climbing where both feet come off but one comfortably stays on, these are not dynos, they are slaps.

[Bradders]

There are loads more problems on steeper boulders where you launch for a hold and three points come off - that doesn't make them dynos.

I think the second part of the definition takes care of this, i.e. there's usually a physical possibility of doing the move static but it's easier/more efficient to basically deadpoint. Either that or that kind of move simply involves holding a cut loose as opposed to jumping. If you do have to jump though (where your feet are fully off before latching the destination hold), then it's a dyno.

So the definition would be where (1) the move leaves you with either one hand or no points of contact, and/or (2) where there is physically no possibility of doing the move statically.

[Stabbsy]

Jason Myers wrote an article in OTE some years ago (20+ years ago maybe, not long after Brad Pit FA) where he defined different types of dynamic moves. I'll try and find it when I'm back at home as I can't quite remember the details. It was something like 3 points of contact during the move was a slap, 2 points was a jump and 1 point was a dyno. Or maybe no points was a dyno and I'm missing a level somewhere.  Either way, I think I concluded that there's very few Myers dynos out there.

[tommytwotone]

I'll give you, that does rule out Deliverance if done the high foot way...

Speak for yourself...never got any further than tickling the top with my hand but I was definitely all points of contact off!

[Will Hunt]

Can a mod just rename this post to Yorkshire Dynamics and can get back on track?

I would quite like to see that mag article though.

[nic mullin]

Jason Myers wrote an article in OTE some years ago (20+ years ago maybe, not long after Brad Pit FA) where he defined different types of dynamic moves. I'll try and find it when I'm back at home as I can't quite remember the details. It was something like 3 points of contact during the move was a slap, 2 points was a jump and 1 point was a dyno. Or maybe no points was a dyno and I'm missing a level somewhere.  Either way, I think I concluded that there's very few Myers dynos out there.

Quality article...I'll definitely wad anyone who can find a copy and stick a scan up here.

I think it went:

3 points on - slap
2 points - lunge
1 point - jump
all points off - dyno

He gave examples of each type of move (mostly that people commonly called the wrong thing by his nomenclature) with harsh commentary as to why people called them dynos - "there's no move in existence where you can keep 3 points of contact that can't be done statically...unless you're too weak or technically inept"... or something along those lines.

For me deliverance is a bit borderline - I think my right hand usually comes off the sidepull, but I don't think it needs to. I doubt it's much more than five feet between the sidepull and the top, so should be reachable by most people. It is definitely not in Yorkshire though so 

[andy_e]

Also, if anybody can confound the matter by finding the video of Ian Vickers mantling a dyno in the world cup, that would also be appreciated.

[Stabbsy]

Also, if anybody can confound the matter by finding the video of Ian Vickers mantling a dyno in the world cup, that would also be appreciated.

Are you sure it was a World Cup? I think I saw it the other day in Hard Plastic (extra on Hard Grit DVD) from the FIBO. Some of the finest climbing commentary I've ever heard...

[andy_e]

Ah, that's it! I'd love to see it again!

Edit: yessss

[Footwork]

Don't think you've had guacamole at Caley

[Rob F]

Hope this a bit clearer???

Soss it's big photos / when I upload medium size photo it goes all funny.

Could someone delete the blurry stuff above???

[Will Hunt]

Thanks for taking the time, Rob

[nic mullin]

Thanks Rob, it's as good as I remember it being! Duly wadded.

[36chambers]

I genuinely thought the dyno method for Brad Pit was from matched on the start rail straight to the jug.

[andy_e]

I love how the last move gets a grade on its own. I might go to Stanage just to tick that move. Getting to that move might be tricky though...