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Yorkshire Dynos (Read 10437 times)

Will Hunt

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Yorkshire Dynos
September 29, 2017, 03:24:11 pm
While we're at it, could we have a graded list of dynos in Yorkshire? Only to include those things where the easiest solution is a dyno and it's not eliminate in any way (so, Ed's Dyno and Black Wall Dyno at the Cliff are out). I'm struggling to think of many.

Clubber Lang (6C) - Ilkley

The Vault (6C+) - Shipley Glen

English Rose (7A+) - Twin Towers (Colsterdale)

Who Are We Without Moon (7A+) - Baildon

Andy Brown's Wall (7B) - Earl Crag (Is this a dyno?)

Fluide (7C) - Brimham (Crow Crag)

Robbed at Dunn Point (7C) - Eavestone

Big Kicks (7C) - Lord's Seat

Clutch (?) - Guisecliff
« Last Edit: September 29, 2017, 03:32:37 pm by Will Hunt »

peewee

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#1 Re: Yorkshire Dynos
September 29, 2017, 03:36:33 pm
Sloping Beauty, Earl
Backdraft, Scout Hut

Will Hunt

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#2 Re: Yorkshire Dynos
September 29, 2017, 03:45:40 pm
Backdraft, Scout Hut

What's that, Pete? I can only see a Backfire at Scout Hut.

Nearly forgot The Titfield Thunderbolt at Brimham. 7B+ I think.
« Last Edit: September 29, 2017, 03:54:22 pm by Will Hunt »

36chambers

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#3 Re: Yorkshire Dynos
September 29, 2017, 04:54:00 pm
A little Sparkle (7A) - Guisecliff

The Real Boom Bap (7A) - on the virgin boulder. Although it technically eliminates the holds on the 8B or whatever it is that goes up that part of the face.

I'd argue that Black Wall Dyno isn't eliminate, since the non dyno way takes a big loop out left.

is Doris Direct (7B+?) at Ilkley a dyno? I've only ever seen a picture of it and I'm not sure whether it's a big move or a dyno. Although I don't really know what a dyno is nowadays, all points of contact off?

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#4 Re: Yorkshire Dynos
September 29, 2017, 07:56:40 pm
There's loads: Throttle Stop at Crookrise and the Dunning ones at slipstones are particularly memorable...

Will Hunt

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#5 Re: Yorkshire Dynos
September 30, 2017, 06:40:22 pm
Did the Real Boom Bap today and it's surprisingly decent and not really an eliminate (and it's actually worth 7A, if not maybe more; loads harder than Clubber Lang). You go to the break straight up from the starting block. Expect some backwards rolls down the hill if you miss while your spotter isn't looking.

peewee

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#6 Re: Yorkshire Dynos
October 02, 2017, 02:45:57 pm
Backdraft, Scout Hut

What's that, Pete? I can only see a Backfire at Scout Hut.

Nearly forgot The Titfield Thunderbolt at Brimham. 7B+ I think.

My bad, yes its Backfire.

Other one to add the classic dyno on the Calf at Ilkely?

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#7 Re: Yorkshire Dynos
October 02, 2017, 03:58:55 pm
A Little Sparkle is more like falling off but catching the top that the same time. I can't dyno but I did it. Bloody great problem :)

Will Hunt

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#8 Re: Yorkshire Dynos
October 02, 2017, 04:40:58 pm
I had thought of the Calf Dyno but it is really eliminate. When you start looking for stuff where the natural way to climb it is to dyno the list becomes much slimmer.

A Little Sparkle (not done it yet) looks more like a pop. Andy Brown's Wall is a throw/slap. Not true dynos but how many true dynos are there really?

Is Morning Sickness at Clattering Stones an eliminate?

Also to add to the list is The Oyster Catcher at Sigsworth Crags.

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#9 Re: Yorkshire Dynos
October 02, 2017, 06:47:23 pm
Flight Path at Mytholm.

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#10 Re: Yorkshire Dynos
October 02, 2017, 09:20:04 pm
Some good air on Jumpers Dyno at Brimham so long as you're not being too rhadamanthine...

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#11 Re: Yorkshire Dynos
October 04, 2017, 01:23:58 pm
Forgot about Flight Path! even though there's a picture of my ugly mug on it in the YMC guide. Wouldn't say it's eliminate.

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#12 Re: Yorkshire Dynos
October 04, 2017, 03:35:01 pm
Morning Sickness at Clattering Stones

Will Hunt

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#13 Re: Yorkshire Dynos
October 04, 2017, 03:40:06 pm
Some good air on Jumpers Dyno at Brimham so long as you're not being too rhadamanthine...

No eliminates, Rob  :spank:

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#14 Re: Yorkshire Dynos
October 04, 2017, 07:17:46 pm
Andy Brown's Wall is a throw/slap.

Andy Brown's is definitely a dyno for anyone under six foot. I'm 5' 11" and had to jump with three points off to latch it.

Suppose it'd be best to get a definition. For me it's anything where (1) the move leaves you with either one or no points of contact, and/or (2) where there is physically no possibility of doing the move statically.

Feel if it were just (1) then things like Deliverance, Fluide, etc. would be left out, which doesn't feel right.

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#15 Re: Yorkshire Dynos
October 04, 2017, 07:20:53 pm
Andy Brown's Wall is a throw/slap.

Andy Brown's is definitely a dyno for anyone under six foot. I'm 5' 11" and had to jump with three points off to latch it.

Suppose it'd be best to get a definition. For me it's anything where (1) the move leaves you with either one or no points of contact, and/or (2) where there is physically no possibility of doing the move statically.

Feel if it were just (1) then things like Deliverance, Fluide, etc. would be left out, which doesn't feel right.

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#16 Re: Yorkshire Dynos
October 04, 2017, 07:32:42 pm
Ha ha ha- Leaning Block Art at Flasby is a good one...

Rob F

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#17 Re: Yorkshire Dynos
October 04, 2017, 07:38:36 pm
Are we counting horizontal dynos or is it just vertical???

Colossal Velocity at Rolling Gate...

Rob F

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#18 Re: Yorkshire Dynos
October 04, 2017, 07:41:47 pm
Solid Air- Eastby...

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#19 Re: Yorkshire Dynos
October 04, 2017, 08:19:08 pm
Andy Brown's Wall is a throw/slap.

Andy Brown's is definitely a dyno for anyone under six foot. I'm 5' 11" and had to jump with three points off to latch it.

Suppose it'd be best to get a definition. For me it's anything where (1) the move leaves you with either one or no points of contact, and/or (2) where there is physically no possibility of doing the move statically.

Feel if it were just (1) then things like Deliverance, Fluide, etc. would be left out, which doesn't feel right.

Deliverance isn't a dyno (if you do it the techy way). Andy Brown's is a big move, but not a dyno. There are loads more problems on steeper boulders where you launch for a hold and three points come off - that doesn't make them dynos.

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#20 Re: Yorkshire Dynos
October 04, 2017, 08:32:21 pm
Suppose it'd be best to get a definition. For me it's anything where (1) the move leaves you with either one or no points of contact, and/or (2) where there is physically no possibility of doing the move statically.

I can think of two routes where the crux involved a one-legged, hands free stand-up move (both were off vertical). Definitely didn't feel like dynos.

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#21 Re: Yorkshire Dynos
October 04, 2017, 09:38:35 pm
Who Are We Without Moon and Sloping Beauty - are they really dynos? To my mind, they are not violent enough - more teetery, balancy deadpoints where your weight is entirelly supported until the very last milliseconds.  Admittedly, I'm 6'3", so often lank moves that other people have to pop for, but I am also an incredibly "slow twitch" climber - I am entirely incapable of genuine dynamic movement.  If those problems were dynos, I would not have done them - my limit for genuine dynos is around v3!


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#22 Re: Yorkshire Dynos
October 04, 2017, 09:40:46 pm
If your other hand stays on then it's not a proper dyno, it's a slap. End of.

Hence Andy Brown's Wall isn't a dyno. Deliverance isn't if done the high foot way, could be the original way but I can't remember if right hand actually comes off. Things like Hurricane at Curbar aren't dynos either, neither is Sloping Beauty at Earl.

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#23 Re: Yorkshire Dynos
October 04, 2017, 10:21:43 pm
I thought only shorties had to take both hands off?


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#24 Re: Yorkshire Dynos
October 05, 2017, 09:03:16 am
Things like Hurricane at Curbar aren't dynos either

Thank you for the excuse to pull out this beauty again.


 

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