Didn't Josune Bereziartu climb v14 some years before Barbara Zangerl climbed Pura Vida in 2008?
Yeah, but she's Josune Bereziartu so nothing she did ever counts, especially in the US. In this case I think it didn't count because the V14 she did had too many moves (that rule only applies to Josune, not to guys climbing Wheel of Life etc)
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Ok, now we're getting silly. We all knew Josune was a beast when she was crushing 9a - I'm not sure where this dark horse thing has come from. She was in the magazines. She was way ahead of her time. But she didn't make the same waves on the boulders - endurance was clearly a big part of what she liked to do. She climbed a couple of really long traverses (one of them 45 moves) which now seem to get 8c or 8B, but do you really want to put them in the list of significant boulder problems? (And no, male ascents of Wheel of Life aren't mentioned in this list either. These days people seem to take 9a for it more readily than V14/15.)
That aside, she did climb the FFA of Solaris, a 9 move 8A+, in 2003. Contender for first of that grade climbed by a woman?
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Other stuff...
RadjaThis wasn't climbed with the best sequence and is now considered 8B. So why don't we give some credit to 8B+'s that are still 8B+? Such as Klem Loskot's Nanuk, climbed one year later.
Dream Time"Dream Time became so popular that the holds eventually wore bigger, downgrading the problem to V14."
Hmm. Some people thought that. Some didn't. Eg. Malc thought it was always 8B+. Anyway, some mention should go to the 8C's that are still considered 8C, of which there was a slew two years later:
2002 8C's
April, Gossip, Markus Bock.
Aug, Monkey Wedding, Rocklands, Fred Nicole (ok, this has gone down to 8B+ too)
Sep, Viva la Evolution, Tyrol, Bernd Zangerl
Oct, Walk Away ss, Fairysteps, John Gaskins
Nov, Emotional Landscapes, Maltatal, Klem Loskot
Klem Loskot again. Just saying.
Pura VidaMaybe this should have been Josune's slot, with her ascent of Solaris five years earlier?
Hypnotized MindsClearly, this is desperate. It has shut down loads of the wads. It took Woods 8 days, split over a few months to complete. Which makes Rustam's swift ascent all the more remarkable, and this should have been mentioned. Crushed it second go of his third day on.
TerranovaThis is a weird inclusion. Possibly the least appealing of many unconfirmed 8C+ lines that have been claimed over the years, and not the first. This slot should still have been Ondra's but it should be about Ondra becoming the first to flash V14 with Confessions in 2009. Woods did it next with Entlinge in 2011.
...But generally, a pretty good list. Perhaps there could have been some mention of the first 8B flash (Paul Robinson with Nagual in 2007 - bad luck Pearson, all three of his the same year now downgraded.)
And who was the first woman to climb 8A? Is there a record?
