Surprisingly, I’ve got ten new problems in the Burbage Valley to report (I know!!!). They are all at Higgar. 8 are on the same block in one spot, the other 2 are outliers. I’ll describe the 8 first:
Located on the obvious stacked boulders on the top of the south edge of the plateau. If you google “Higgar Tor” it’s the one in the picture that appears! These are the ones which are well used by “weaselling” school groups, and also mentioned in the new Rockfax bouldering guide as the location of the problem “Elephant’s Arse”. The problems are split 4 on the north facing side in a gully, and 4 on the south face. A useful venue for summer / autumn evenings as the south face is very exposed. The north face is very sheltered from westerlies and can end up staying largely dry in passing showers. I have given rough grades to the best of my ability but I could of course be totally wrong! I have put an “!” where things are highball.
North Face
1.
Lapwing 7a/7a+ ish – Start matched in the juggy break under the roof. Climb up via a big sidepull to reach a decent edge, then drape leftwards along the slopey shelf until a move up to the lip is possible then work back right to top out. The blocks out left are not used. Both the rock and movement are brilliant. Pics below:
2.
Tusk! 6b! ish – Climb the left arête in the gully, when established on the upper arête swing onto the right side to finish. A brilliant highball on good rock. Mind the ledge behind, worth having a spotter for this plus a pad on the ledge if you are unsure. That said the ledge does allow you to check out most of the holds in advance. Sitter is same grade. Writing this I have just realised that I forgot to do a variation which seemed possible, rocking up the left wall once you have the arête. This may be easier but probably less satisfying as it goes into the chimney. Pic below:
3.
Free Palestine 6c! ish – From a stand start at the base of the gully start up the right arête using face holds on the left and tackle the bulge direct on slopers. There is a hidden tiny two finger pocket high up which makes it possible. Another brilliant highball on good rock. Again care needed with the ledge behind, spotter useful. No pics of the climbing I’m afraid but you can see the chalked holds on the topo pic.
4.
Curlew 6c ish – Start sitting on the block which forms the edge of the gully. There are two sidepull dishes to start. Contort upwards on slopers to finish either right or left. Great moves. See vid, second to last problem.
South FaceThe rock on this side is a total scrittle fest. I was going to jib these problems off for that reason but a quick word with Bonjoy about some of his patented rock stabilisation methods and most of the holds are now solid. Well, the ones I use in the videos are at least! In general terms all of the holds used for the “hard” climbing low down have been stabilised where necessary. I also stabilised the footholds I used for topping out 7 and 8. If you go “off plan” then be prepared to scrittle around! I mention this so that a) people take appropriate care of the sandy rock that hasn’t been stabilised and b) people take appropriate care of themselves when doing the high top outs. Not a place to thrash around wildly. I had a rope on these when cleaning, although you can scramble onto the top to check most of them out beforehand anyway.
5.
Mustela 6c (!) ish – Start sitting matched on the good break, no use of the lower blocks (floor!) at this grade. Use a collection of edges and a dirty break to reach a good diagonal crack in the break. Either traverse off here into the weaselling chimney or continue direct to finish. See vid.
6.
Rhino's Bumcheek 6c! ish – Start sitting as for 5, climb the bulging arête direct via a good sloper and a deep two finger pocket. Once established finish up the groove as for 7 – see that description for details. Very graunchy and weird moves, although the break was damp so may be easier if you can use this? Will also undoubtedly be easier if you are tall and can get the pocket in your left straight away. Stand is prob a similar grade, sitter doesn’t add much. See vid.
7.
Hippo's Ballbag 7a! ish – Start sitting at the low central crack, then climb direct up to the runnel via a hard pull from sloper and pebbles to a hidden slopey edge. It may be possible here to traverse off round to the right. Alternatively finish direct over the bulge for the full tick. Beta as per the vid. Stand is prob a similar grade, sitter doesn’t add much.
8.
Elephant’s Arse Direct Finish 6b+! – Do existing problem Elephant’s Arse but finish direct over bulge rather than traversing off right. The finishing moves are good but my sequence involved a high blind foot placement which was fine after being on a rope but take care if ground up. There is an option for graunching through but the rock is scrittley. See vid.
Outliers9.
Higgar's Boson 6a+ - Climb the wedge in the passage next to Big Slab from a sitting start. See pic below:
10.
Totally Facile 6b+ - Climb the wall left of Easy Peasy. Short may need to dyno at a harder grade if they can't reach edge out left. Finish by stepping left onto boulder once at break. See vid, last problem. Worth noting that Easy Peasy is a great e1 6a / 5+ highball in its own right.
Finally, vid is here:
