[tomtom]

Bore da!

So it seems my end of summer aims are Kudos and The Press... after a shit week last week I decided I needed to do some training...

M: Manc Depot. On the 30 all session. Felt weak but enjoyed it.

Tu:

We: Manc Depot. On the 30 all session - felt better - couple of moves I couldn't stick on Monday were slick.. cool. Made up some press like hold combo

Th:

Fr: Rubicon. FFS - couldnt even pull on the press.. tried Daves Kudos method out of desperation - felt possible.. Could pull on the press fine after 45 min or so - progressed to slapping..

Sa:

Su: Rubicon again. Felt OK on first few go's but then faded fast.. pretty shit to be honest. Still those sessions happen and probably too soon after Fr.. Good to chat to Kelvin, Dave & Gav (I think..)

[lagerstarfish]

M - big yellow gym - 1 min fast (for me) interval runs to get the old ticker going - dumbell complexes - 4 combined sets of pullups, pressups and body weight trap bar deadlifts - one arm rear delt cable flys for a warm down because it felt nice

Tu - warm up routine on garage board (active rest, innit)

W - big yellow gym before work - rather pleased to be able to knock out 10 pullups on jugs without too much elbow pain (after warm up) - 4 combined sets of ten pullups (bar), twenty pressups and ten 110kg trap bar deadlift concentrating on form (legs no longer feel like an obvious weak link), rest between sets determined by the urge to throw up  - rear delt cable jazz to warm down

Th - The Works - not bad on low 6s - shat myself up nearly landing on some lad who was stretching on the mat when I dropped from the top of the comp wall; my fault, I knew he was there, but had only intended to feel the starting holds instead of cruising to the top

F - nowt

Sa - mini works in the morning with the two youngest kids - pleased with doing 4 to 6 no rest laps of a few easy low 6 murples - felt good.
 Afternoon - did a few dumbell complexes in the garage due to not enough time to get to gym.
Evening - Eckington cricket club -  5 sets of 70% 1RM max flirting with ladies

Su - swimming with the kids and warm up routine on fingerboard

got something like 12 weekdays off work over the next 2 months - looking forward to some scrittle action

[fried]

Easy...not much. Too much work, finishing too far from wall, should do some BM sessions but came home too tired too even contemplate it.

And it rained.... and rained.

Sun - Indoors, not so bad considering I slept badly, resting has something to be said for it.

Noticed that I have a real weakness on lock offs, then read an old thread where TT said the same thing and Nibs convinced him to drink wine (I'm paraphrasing)..that's me sorted for the evening.

But these little things psyche me so much....and it can't rain forever.

[shark]

11.5-7

M. Eve. Depot. Circuiting

T.

W. PM Anston. Snuck out for a couple of hours and worked some more on Soul Crusher 7C/+ - felt I was making progress. Eve Peak Area meeting

T.

F. PM Anston with with Ben for another session on Soul Crusher . Got angry and frustrated not being able to hold the slot when I snatch for it. Soul was crushed. Ben managed to do all the moves - kind of

S. Drove Ben to Bristol to his university digs.    On way back got stuck in traffic jam. Transpired there was a bad accident. Stationary for over four hours. When let through realised I was only 400 yards ie 15 secs drive away from the scene. Scene of devestation. Dont think I'll forget driving past the cordon of grim faced high vis emergency workers. Got to Nicks for 9pm. Steak and a bottle of wine. Each. Beat him 5-0 at pool.

S. AM Woken by searing sunshine. Ouch. Wrights Rock. Nick beat me 3-0 on the 7's. I got stuck on the Sloper Problem 7A. Got matched on the slopey shelf three times but not in control   

Bit off the pace. Going to take a few days off as not had more than two rest days since May. Will try and lose the pounds gained and get a pounding from Loopy Lou

[lagerstarfish]

Got angry

doesn't sound like you

[shark]

Got angry

doesn't sound like you

At Anston it is easy to be angry when the climbing is so shit

[nai]

M - 4x10 mins LI AeroCap
TRX

T - Warmed up at home then headed to Anston.  Tried Last Stand, Fine Art and Colt, all 7A or 7A+, all of which had one move I couldn't do.  Lack of recent activity showed up - rubbish footwork, body positioning non existent and fingers unable to pull as desired/required.  I need to have a think about where I go from here.

W - weights & TRX trying to address weaknesses identified by profeshnials in shoulders and upper back

T rest

F - Took an age to warm up at home. Ummed and Ahhed about where to go but reasoned trying anything hard was futile and I'd benefit more from mileage. Opted to go looking for flow at Stanage. Flow must have been elsewhere. Had to session what should be warm ups.

S - Foundry with nipper.  Was in danger of being burned off but managed some L2s.
weights & TRX back home

S rest

[lagerstarfish]

what do you do on TRX, Nai?

I have access to such equipment, but am unsure what might be worth doing

[nai]

I do the stuff advised by Lattice:



plus dips/tri extension, normal chest fly and pressups.  Hope to add some core stuff in too.

Been taking it easy, from previous attempts I know it's quite easy to hurt yourself if you push it too fast.

[lagerstarfish]

cool, thanks

I think I'll have a go at those

[36chambers]

M:
T: Indoors. 30 and 50. Was shown a good problem on the 50 and found I could do some moves I was struggling with earlier in the year. Recompiled my project list and the 50 board psyche is back. 
W:
T: Roche Abbey. Quick late afternoon hit, found about 20 ways to not do Idris 7B+, I wonder if I'm too small for it as everything felt completely unfeasible. Managed The Fool 7B+ afterwards, which is great.
F:
S: Lad Stones. Thought I was on for the flash on Traci Lords, but instead ragged a fingernail causing the skin to tear to underneath (I think I draw blood bouldering as often as I don't). Anyway, climb Artois 6C which is brilliant, Warstarter 7B+ and Warstarter RH ~7C and flashed The Death Clock 7B+. Regret not getting round to trying Lancaster Bomber 7C, as it's one of the best looking climbs I've seen in the UK.
S: Sampson's Stones. What a beautiful place, most scenic crag in the UK? Flashed Pulsar 7A and Event Horizon 6C+, close to doing Quark Star 7C, but it happened to be the one problem that dodged the breeze and caught all the sun.

Great weekend. Feeling pretty knackered this morning, mainly from carrying too much stuff on the walk-ins.

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - lunchtime: 1,5 cm session (5 + 5 pull ups with 20/10 kg added, x 5).  Evening: dumbbell complex 10 x 5. Good!
Tue - rest.
Wed - one foot bouldering, good session: having skin and only 24 degrees paid out. 2 problems; 2 problems + 8 kg; 2 problems + 2 kg. Slightly tweaked my right shoulder. Dumbbell complex.
Thu - rest.
Fri - weights. 
Sat - board. Tried single moves of a couple of old projects, then short links of the one I'm going to work. Not bad at all, quite happy. Then some campusing. Maybe shoes will be an issue: new ones are not very good, old ones are quite worn out. We'll see. Rings. Paused snatch pulls. Good session.
Sun - tired. One armers. Trap bar work. Farmer's walk 120 kg x 15" x 3.

Very happy to be back on the board with decent results.
Left elbow is achey, I must be prudent.

[T_B]

M - Lunch. Autobelays - 6 x 5 - 6c, 3 x 7a, 1 x 7a+
T - PM rings. Various pressing/core exercises. Could only manage 5 x pull ups, 3 x offset pull ups. Rings hurt codfinger.
W - PM. Repeaters. 2 x 6 x 7 front 3, 2.5 mins rest after finger-tip pull ups (open). No pain/swelling in PIP joint the next day.
T - PM. Burbage Remergence. Blind Date repeat with low foot, Blind Ali (never been able to do this before, got beta from Dave and it felt OK), then tried link into Blind Date. Got to BD sloper twice and best go fell off slapping the lip from the slots. 8.5 degrees on return to the car. Great session.
F - Lunch. Autobelays. 12 routes 6b-6c.
S -
S - Burbage South. Not great conditions. Warm ups, then repeated Electrical Storm, then messed about on a harder variation before heavy shower stopped play. Went for a short woods run on arrival back at home.

Finger seems to be resolving itself and withstood deadhanging open handed.
Good to have a close-to-home mini link up proj (Bling Ali's Date).
All in all seem to have got my grit bouldering mojo back. Nice to get out for a run Sunday pm, but hamstring far from sorted. Need to take it super steady.

[yetix]

STG: resolve finger issues (seem to be improving) and get some volume outside done
MTG: Captain Hook, Bovine, Electrical Storm
LTG: Brad Pit, and la Fuente (stand)

65kg

M: Rest - went to see parents. ate far too much food!
T: Depot Manchester, Another of the yellows ticked off and a short campusing session
W: fingerboarding (repeaters) + pinch blocks. + Weights + Conditioning + TRX +front levers
T: Depot Manchester, volume session 3 attempts max reds + purples. (fingers felt tired)
F: Rest
S: Wrights Rock (Churnet) sent Fingers, the sitter of Fingers and Simple Simon Indirect. Tried Simple Simon Stand but was poo'd
S: Tried to get on Monochrome and Boyager but they were soaked, so went to Stoney and circuited most of the 7a/+'s x4 for each. fingerboarding (repeaters) + pinch blocks.

[Nutty]

Weight: 69kg

STG: Train more regularly, sub-45 min 10k in training, climb outdoors more
MTG: Sub-90 min half marathon, 7A something
LTG: TBC

M: Garden board session. Did my warm-up problems and failed miserably on anything harder.
T: Run. 6k at 4:23/km average pace. Slower than last week, maybe because of the conditions (wet) or running too soon after a meal.
W: Board session. Warm up problems and then made progress on a harder problem. Felt good to actually link a couple of moves together. 
T: Rest.
F: Drove up to parent's for the weekend
S: Run. 6.7km at 4:08/km average pace. Much better than Tuesday's run. Pleased with the pace.
S: Son's 1st birthday. BBQ and party with family. Good day. Drove back home in the evening. Knackered.

Good week. Monday and Tuesday's board session and run were disappointing, but then the later sessions in the week showed progress.

On a training course that will limit my training time this week, need to squeeze in some training when I can. Will try to get a couple of runs in at ~6km again before starting to build up the distance. 

[Duma]

Goals:
Fix shoulder
More 8A's
8b

Body Audit: Left shoulder feeling ok, starting to up the intensity with little reaction so far.
Sleep: Average to poor
70kg.

M: really tired after shit nights sleep. TCA, Mothership set, finished off everything but the 2 hard ones, probably a couple of low 7's, pretty shouldery steepness though, so pleased shoulder seemed ok after. Slept much better.
T:
W: Slept terribly again - pissed off seems to happen before I'm climbing. TCA, new hard set (reds) had gone up so got stuck in, going ok but def a way off where I was in June. Could feel shoulder but no real pain and fine after.
T:
F: Nothing.
S: Nothing, mates round for meal in eve, lots of booze
S: Slept shit the night before climbing again! arse. Cheddar in aft - the wave - felt pretty pumped on 6b warm up  , but flash go on Liquid Crystal (8a) was pretty positive, popped off crimp in middle of crux, then went straight to top. Failed on last move of The Minstrel (7a+) pitifully, but then got LC second go feeling like I had a bit in the tank despite completely forgetting a foothold. Finished off The Minstrel after. Good day in the sunshine despite the boy racers gunning it up and down the gorge.

Good week climbing wise despite sleep not being great and work stress fairly high. Happy shoulder seems to be on the right track.

[Coops_13]

STG: Get back in shape
MTG: 7C

Been AWOL for a couple of weeks with the girlfriend moving over from the States and us going on holiday to Sicily. Managed to squeeze a couple of sessions in but feeling weak and A2 pulley sore.

Aim to get indoors a lot to maximise my now less frequent weekend trips...

[Fiend]

S. Drove Ben to Bristol to his university digs.    On way back got stuck in traffic jam. Transpired there was a bad accident. Stationary for over four hours. When let through realised I was only 400 yards ie 15 secs drive away from the scene. Scene of devestation. Dont think I'll forget driving past the cordon of grim faced high vis emergency workers.

Faaaark. Saw that on the news, grim accident. Glad you weren't 15 seconds earlier (I'm sure Shark jnr did some essential faffing around getting into his digs).

 

[shark]

S. Drove Ben to Bristol to his university digs.    On way back got stuck in traffic jam. Transpired there was a bad accident. Stationary for over four hours. When let through realised I was only 400 yards ie 15 secs drive away from the scene. Scene of devestation. Dont think I'll forget driving past the cordon of grim faced high vis emergency workers.

Faaaark. Saw that on the news, grim accident. Glad you weren't 15 seconds earlier (I'm sure Shark jnr did some essential faffing around getting into his digs).

Thanks. One to add to the list of closeish shaves. Mind you 30 secs earlier and I wouldn't have realised it even happened. Four killed and a woman and two kids critically injured. A lorry heading southwards slewed through the central reservation and took out two cars. One of the cars was decimated like you wouldn't believe. Horrible. 

[tommytwotone]

Goal - Font 7anything


M - gym session on lunch, 500m row then 150 total reps inc. press, deadlift, box jumps
T - gym session on lunch, 500m row then 100 reps. Had 3 random deadlifts to do at end so did 2 x 100kg which was surprisingly easy, then 1 x 120kg which I managed!
W - 100 reps at home while feeling a bit DOMS-y
T - back a bit sore. 100 reps at work, then out for leaving do after work, loads of beers
F - hungover day, 100 reps at home, back still pretty sore
S - nowt much, day of household pottering / looking after kids. Back still bad.
S - as above, more pottering. Back still sore.


So for all of my happiness at the time with my deadlift exploits it appears I might have tweaked something. Trying to take it easy till it loosens up. Feels bit better today.

[Wood FT]

m -
t -
w - Torbryan with Toby D and OMM, fell off the top of Threadbare 7c+ on first go of the day, rubbish thereafter. Had declared the lower crux as crap in the past but I think it was just my ego being taken down a peg or two.
f -
sa -
su - Torbryan, quick visit on way back from Bristol. Off the top move again on Threadbare, second go got up to the final clip but rather annoyingly grabbed the draw. Disappointed in myself.

Slow week, got other stuff on. Nice to meet OMM 

[Bradders]

STG - Tourniquet
MTG - week off in October and two weeks off before Christmas. Hoping to finish off a couple of grit projects, notably Jason's Roof at Crookrise and Low Rider at Stanage
LTG - too many projects to list here.

M - Depot, didn't have much time. Tried a yellow for half an hour or so then went on the 50' board for 45mins or so. Surprised myself by doing a couple of problems easily which I often struggle with.
T - gym squats session. Feeling it out as I've not done much lifting previously. Did 4 sets x4 reps at 60kg trying to really concentrate on form. Also did some cable twists which is just a wonderful exercise.
W - volume Depot session, did loads of purples.
T - rest
F - back on Tourniquet. Not much actual progress but lots of beta refinement and repeated a couple of good links.
S - rest
S - Tourniquet again. Totally consumed by this thing. Actual genuine progress and a new high point from the start (matched on the middle sloper, just two tricky moves to go). Even more beta refinement and feeling good on all the moves. Is there a more beta intensive problem anywhere?! Unfortunately tweaked my left wrist towards the end; now feels a little dodgy but not too bad.