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California recommendations (Read 4366 times)

JohnM

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California recommendations
September 16, 2017, 08:05:13 pm
I will be travelling round California for just over three weeks in October so looking for recommendations for some routes to climb. It is not really a dedicated climbing trip but more of a tour round the major sights with some climbing/bouldering in between. We plan to visit J-Tree and Bishop and also Yosemite. It would be nice to do a classic multipitch probably no harder than 5.11 if anyone has any recommendations? Ideally I don't want to take a huge rack or no rack at all and just a single rope and quickdraws but I could be persuaded if there is something unmissable.

I have heard good things about the Needles. Is trad gear required there? Are there any good bolted routes in Yosemite? What about Toulomne Meadows?

We will definitely have our sport climbing gear so if anyone know of any good single pitch sport climbing. I have been to Owen's River Gorge before which was ok.

Does anyone know if you can rent boulder pads in Bishop or Yosemite as we won't be taking any over.

Keen to hear any recommendations for anything really. I have been before but still have plenty of things to see.

Davo

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#1 Re: California recommendations
September 17, 2017, 07:35:33 am
Sounds pretty good! Do you never work?

Have you done Snake Dyke in Yoesemite. Jut need some quick draws and a rope as I remember. Can't remember putting my gear in and I think we simul climbed some of it anyway.

duncan

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#2 Re: California recommendations
September 17, 2017, 03:40:57 pm
You probably know the sport climbing in California is a bit like the UK: the good easy rock was mostly climbed as trad. leaving the mediocre (Owen's River Gorge) or the hard. Good moderate multipitch routes will need some gear - unless you can stretch CA to include Las Vegas.

Your options are much better if you take a small rack: ~3 small-medium cams, 5 wires and a couple of slings. You should be OK on the following if you're happy running it out a little  on 5.7 (VS).

Yosemite
Has a scattering of moderate sport routes (e.g. base of Lower Cathedral, Chapel Wall). Not really it's strong suit though.

As above, Snake Dike (5.7, HVS 4c) is a long hike to ~6 pitches of very cool climbing followed by a lot more hiking. Submitting Half Dome is great of course. A couple of cams are handy for the first and last belays. 

Royal Arches regular route (5.7) mostly Severe. Largely soloable, a couple of sections feel more comfortable with a rope on. Descend the N Dome Gully unless you have a very nervous scrambler on the team. Or go on up to:

Crest Jewel on North Dome (10a, about E2) if you've made good time on Royal Arches. Brilliant route, all bolted, though a little bit run-out for a Sport route. You can also hike in to this from Tuolumne.

The Needles are beautiful, one of the loveliest places I've ever climbed. It's probably going to be quite cold up there in October and nearly all the routes are very trad. as far as I'm aware. The Magic Dragon (1000' 5.8; VS, short HVS crux) is mostly easy slabbing up a stunning feature and should be OK with an Alpine rack.

Tuolumne might also be getting a little chilly. You could probably do Fairview regular route (5.9) with your light rack (mostly VS, short HVS crux) otherwise how happy do you feel about run-out 5.8? (Roseanne, Magical Mystery Tour, and many similar).

Joshua Tree has a small number of sport routes and some sporty trad. routes that would go on qds only if you were feeling brave. Much better if you've got a full trad. rack though. 

Red Rocks? Not Cali but not that far from Joshua Tree or Bishop. Ideal for what you're looking for: good sport climbing, excellent moderate multi-pitch routes, nice rock, and soft grades! Crimson Chrysalis (1000', 5.8 ) is really good, goes on draws only, and can be abseiled with a single 70m (just). Dream of Wild Turkeys (10a) is also brilliant. We did this with small rack of wires, adding a couple of cams would be reassuring.
« Last Edit: September 17, 2017, 03:46:23 pm by duncan »

rosmat

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#3 Re: California recommendations
September 18, 2017, 04:58:46 am
Best sport crag in Cali:

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=23197

Loads more routes there but I've not had a chance to update the UKC page yet.

Especially good in the 7a - 7c range, but some good easier routes too.

Sun in the morning, shade in the afternoon. It's at 9000ft+ so sun will prob be good by October.
« Last Edit: September 18, 2017, 05:14:59 am by rosmat »

rosmat

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#4 Re: California recommendations
September 18, 2017, 05:03:36 am
ps Tioga Cliff is in the new Marty Lewis Mammoth Guide book - but PM me if you don't wanna buy it and I'll send you pics.

I live just near Yosemite and could lend you some gear for a day or two to use in Yosemite if you need it. I'd prob do E Buttress Of Middle Cathedral as it gets the shade, but if its cold maybe something on the other side in the sun - Serenity / Sons etc.
« Last Edit: September 18, 2017, 05:11:17 am by rosmat »

rosmat

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#5 Re: California recommendations
September 18, 2017, 05:14:13 am
You probably know the sport climbing in California is a bit like the UK: the good easy rock was mostly climbed as trad. leaving the mediocre (Owen's River Gorge) or the hard. Good moderate multipitch routes will need some gear - unless you can stretch CA to include Las Vegas.

Your options are much better if you take a small rack: ~3 small-medium cams, 5 wires and a couple of slings. You should be OK on the following if you're happy running it out a little  on 5.7 (VS).

Yosemite
Has a scattering of moderate sport routes (e.g. base of Lower Cathedral, Chapel Wall). Not really it's strong suit though.

As above, Snake Dike (5.7, HVS 4c) is a long hike to ~6 pitches of very cool climbing followed by a lot more hiking. Submitting Half Dome is great of course. A couple of cams are handy for the first and last belays. 

Royal Arches regular route (5.7) mostly Severe. Largely soloable, a couple of sections feel more comfortable with a rope on. Descend the N Dome Gully unless you have a very nervous scrambler on the team. Or go on up to:

Crest Jewel on North Dome (10a, about E2) if you've made good time on Royal Arches. Brilliant route, all bolted, though a little bit run-out for a Sport route. You can also hike in to this from Tuolumne.

The Needles are beautiful, one of the loveliest places I've ever climbed. It's probably going to be quite cold up there in October and nearly all the routes are very trad. as far as I'm aware. The Magic Dragon (1000' 5.8; VS, short HVS crux) is mostly easy slabbing up a stunning feature and should be OK with an Alpine rack.

Tuolumne might also be getting a little chilly. You could probably do Fairview regular route (5.9) with your light rack (mostly VS, short HVS crux) otherwise how happy do you feel about run-out 5.8? (Roseanne, Magical Mystery Tour, and many similar).

Joshua Tree has a small number of sport routes and some sporty trad. routes that would go on qds only if you were feeling brave. Much better if you've got a full trad. rack though. 

Red Rocks? Not Cali but not that far from Joshua Tree or Bishop. Ideal for what you're looking for: good sport climbing, excellent moderate multi-pitch routes, nice rock, and soft grades! Crimson Chrysalis (1000', 5.8 ) is really good, goes on draws only, and can be abseiled with a single 70m (just). Dream of Wild Turkeys (10a) is also brilliant. We did this with small rack of wires, adding a couple of cams would be reassuring.

Duncan, the Regular Route on Fairview is in the shade - it'll most likely be super cold by October.

jwi

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#6 Re: California recommendations
September 18, 2017, 07:30:31 am

Red Rocks? Not Cali but not that far from Joshua Tree or Bishop. Ideal for what you're looking for: good sport climbing, excellent moderate multi-pitch routes, nice rock, and soft grades! Crimson Chrysalis (1000', 5.8 ) is really good, goes on draws only, and can be abseiled with a single 70m (just). Dream of Wild Turkeys (10a) is also brilliant. We did this with small rack of wires, adding a couple of cams would be reassuring.

Levitation 29 (5.11+) as well. Long walk in and out but quite good climbing. Bring a few wires and three-four friends.

Paul B

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#7 Re: California recommendations
September 18, 2017, 09:51:47 am
Shameless Needles photo. I spent the time to tag the towers should it be useful:


The Californian Needles by travelswithmyt4, on Flickr

The Needles are beautiful, one of the loveliest places I've ever climbed. It's probably going to be quite cold up there in October and nearly all the routes are very trad. as far as I'm aware. The Magic Dragon (1000' 5.8; VS, short HVS crux) is mostly easy slabbing up a stunning feature and should be OK with an Alpine rack.

Scirroco is about the only one I can think of?
https://www.mountainproject.com/v/scirocco/106258179


White Punks on Dope, Voodoo Dome by travelswithmyt4, on Flickr

Perhaps White Punks on Dope would be possible if you're confident with a limited rack? The last few pitches are certainly just spacey slabs. The crux pitch is laybacking something far too large for any gear (although I think I got something fairly large towards the bottom of this feature). I can't remember the rest; the start is as pictured above (and from the floor it'd be easy to start up the wrong feature).

I'm heading to Red Rocks in Oct/Nov time for Lev. 29 after being baked off anything south facing during my last visit (~May time). JWI's other suggestions are spot on.

I haven't been but Kolob Canyon near Zion looks good/interesting (a fairly short drive from Red Rocks by USA standards):
https://www.mountainproject.com/v/kolob-canyon/105717086

T_B

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#8 Re: California recommendations
September 18, 2017, 10:21:06 am
That's a lot of driving in 3 weeks.

The Needles is in the middle of nowhere and not somewhere to go w/o a trad rack and at least 10 days IMO.

There's some decent single pitch sport in Tuolumne if you like face climbing on chicken heads (e.g. Electric Africa). I've bouldered there in October (on a v similar trip to what you're doing) and it was warm enough to be climbing tops off in the sun, so it should be fine for single pitch.

duncan

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#9 Re: California recommendations
September 18, 2017, 11:56:43 am
I live just near Yosemite and could lend you some gear for a day or two to use in Yosemite if you need it. I'd prob do E Buttress Of Middle Cathedral as it gets the shade, but if its cold maybe something on the other side in the sun - Serenity / Sons etc.

Grab this offer with both hands. With a rack you could also consider the E. Buttress of El Cap. (5.10a, ~E1).

Quote from: Paul B link=topic=28364.msg557418#msg557418
Scirroco is about the only one I can think of?
https://www.mountainproject.com/v/scirocco/106258179

Me and a couple of East Coast wads all backed off this in 1984. We were totally upstaged by Skip Guerin who cruised it barefoot shortly after! It's all vicious granite edges, hard to imagine a route less suited to this style.

Shoeless Skip on Scirocco.




I really, really need to do a Needles, Tuolumne and High Sierra trip soon. But not in October.



JohnM

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#10 Re: California recommendations
September 22, 2017, 05:40:22 pm
Thanks for all the recommendations really appreciate it  :thumbsup:

Quote
Do you never work?
I'm always at work Dave I don't know what you are talking about  ;) Snake Dyke sounds like a good day out I give that a whirl although granite frictions slabs are the things of my nightmares!

Quote
Your options are much better if you take a small rack: ~3 small-medium cams, 5 wires and a couple of slings.
Cheers for the recommendations Duncan. I think after reading this thread I will definitely take a rack with me now so we can access some of the classic easier trad routes.

Quote
I live just near Yosemite and could lend you some gear for a day or two to use in Yosemite if you need it. I'd prob do E Buttress Of Middle Cathedral as it gets the shade, but if its cold maybe something on the other side in the sun - Serenity / Sons etc

Thanks that's really kind I might take you up on that offer maybe to borrow a few extra cams if that is what is needed. I will PM for the topo too as we will be heading up that way.

Quote
Levitation 29 (5.11+) as well. Long walk in and out but quite good climbing. Bring a few wires and three-four friends.
I have done that route which was a great day out. We will be spending a couple of days in Red Rock so will definitely get on something there. I remember doing a route called Only the Good Die Young which was good and another called Prince of Darkness so maybe something of the ilk.

Quote
I haven't been but Kolob Canyon near Zion looks good/interesting (a fairly short drive from Red Rocks by USA standards):
Wow Kolob does look good. A bit Taipanesque not that I have been. I think based on what I have read we might skip the Needles this time if it will be a bit cold.

Quote
There's some decent single pitch sport in Tuolumne if you like face climbing on chicken heads (e.g. Electric Africa).
Yeah this sounds good. Quite like teetering up wall dotted with chicken heads!

Does anyone know if you can rent pads at either Bishop or Yosemite. Would be keen to do Midnight Lightning while I am there. Hopefully there will be a crew under it with a load of pads.

This might sound like a stupid question but do I need to be concerned about bears? Is it worth carrying bear spray around with me or is that just being irrational!

jwi

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#11 Re: California recommendations
September 22, 2017, 05:42:54 pm
You don't have to be concerned about bear attacks, but you do need to make sure that you absolutely under no circumstances leave anything edible in the car, for any period of time.

Paul B

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#12 Re: California recommendations
September 22, 2017, 05:50:32 pm
We saw one bear (brown) at a fair distance in ~6 months. We did all the bear can stuff etc. but I'd be amazed if our van was truly empty of anything with a food like scent when it was left unattended.

Given the location of Midnight lightening it must be very easy to blag pads? Google (UKC) suggests renting pads in Bishop is possible.

SA Chris

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#13 Re: California recommendations
September 22, 2017, 05:55:03 pm
Yep you can hire from http://eastsidesports.com/eastside/ (Formerly Wilsons) or if you turn up at Buttermilks with no fixed agenda there will be people on something who would probably let you use a pad in exchange for a spot.
Also if you are hiring for a long period it might be cheaper to buy and sell on.

reeve

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#14 Re: California recommendations
September 22, 2017, 05:59:43 pm
Shameless Needles photo. I spent the time to tag the towers should it be useful:


The Californian Needles by travelswithmyt4, on Flickr

That's a cracking photo Paul

AndyR

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#15 Re: California recommendations
September 22, 2017, 06:08:28 pm
I hear good things about Shuteye Ridge - haven’t been, but pictures look superb. Doable with just a sport rack (plus maybe small trad rack) as well for many of the routes. If weather is warm in Oct, then should be fine.

 

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