Author Topic: UKB Power Club 393 4th - 10th September 2017  (Read 1682 times)

Online tomtom

  • forum hero
  • *****
  • Posts: 15318
  • Karma: +455/-7
Re: UKB Power Club 393 4th - 10th September 2017
« Reply #25 on: September 12, 2017, 07:53:16 am »
cheers TT

trying to get myself spotting hustling fit for the coming season

Offline tommytwotone

  • Southern jessie turned Almscliff devotee
  • forum hero
  • *****
  • Posts: 2697
  • Karma: +137/-3
Re: UKB Power Club 393 4th - 10th September 2017
« Reply #26 on: September 12, 2017, 08:25:29 am »
Goal - a new Font 7anything


Started the 100 reps thing again


M - gym on lunch, brutal 200 reps including bodyweight (70kg) deadlifts, 60cm box jumps, KB goblet squats and KB swings.
T - DOMS. Had goo intentions to go to gym on lunch but was in too much pain. 100 reps at home later on.
W - 100 squats in the shower room at work at the end of the day, then out for a few beers.
T - hungover, then Thai lunch and an IPA, then 100 reps in the evening.
F - 100 reps at home.
S - as above.
S - as above. Fiona was away so had my first taste of doing teatime / bedtime / night-time and morning routine with a 3-yr-old and a 7-month-old.


Other development was that I've had the OK to have a night away somewhere, so considering a trip to North Lees camping pod over a weekend one day soon. Looking forward to that!

"...enjoying myself, feeling nice and nervous - I feel great..."

Offline fried

  • forum hero
  • *****
  • Posts: 1853
  • Karma: +59/-3
Re: UKB Power Club 393 4th - 10th September 2017
« Reply #27 on: September 12, 2017, 06:35:20 pm »
Su- Yr. no's weather report for the forest looked O.Kish. Should have dried out after a lot of rain. Drove towards Cul de chien, changed my mind and went to Gorge aux chats, didn't even bother going further than the car pÔrk, everthing was damp and it was just starting to rain. Drove home in a foul mood.....more tired than foul to be honest.

I'm gonna be in Bleau from next Weds, hoping to stay out there for a while (until the end of October?) lemme know if you fancy climbing some time!

I PMed you, seems to be a few problems with the DB at the moment....
Nightmares; I have none, I am the chosen one.

Offline highrepute

  • forum abuser
  • ****
  • Posts: 742
  • Karma: +61/-0
  • Blah
Re: UKB Power Club 393 4th - 10th September 2017
« Reply #28 on: September 12, 2017, 09:55:10 pm »
Some good entries. Well done Shark. Did you do it the proper way? ;)

What are the rules?

You have shuffle along until holding two small slots then bust up to a slopey boss edge. I thought this was the most logical way but it's easier if you go up earlier.

Offline shark

  • Administrator
  • forum hero
  • *****
  • Posts: 5864
  • Karma: +391/-7
  • insect overlord #1
Re: UKB Power Club 393 4th - 10th September 2017
« Reply #29 on: September 13, 2017, 12:39:23 am »
Some good entries. Well done Shark. Did you do it the proper way? ;)

What are the rules?

You have shuffle along until holding two small slots then bust up to a slopey boss edge. I thought this was the most logical way but it's easier if you go up earlier.

Yeah. I did that. Didn't start quite as far right as tomtom on his fail vid which is maybe what he is getting at but team old skool didn't start there either
We're gonna need a bigger boat

Online tomtom

  • forum hero
  • *****
  • Posts: 15318
  • Karma: +455/-7
Re: UKB Power Club 393 4th - 10th September 2017
« Reply #30 on: September 13, 2017, 07:53:15 am »
Some good entries. Well done Shark. Did you do it the proper way? ;)

What are the rules?

You have shuffle along until holding two small slots then bust up to a slopey boss edge. I thought this was the most logical way but it's easier if you go up earlier.

Yeah. I did that. Didn't start quite as far right as tomtom on his fail vid which is maybe what he is getting at but team old skool didn't start there either

Yeah - depends what holds at the start are damp etc.. I think the main difference between ways is some go up much earlier to the big crimpy edge with the RH (with a right heel on) then go left, rather than shuffling along low then heading up to the slopers...

Offline dave

  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • *****
  • Posts: 18719
  • Karma: +598/-9
  • Wildcard Megos arch nemesis.
    • Dave's website etc
Re: UKB Power Club 393 4th - 10th September 2017
« Reply #31 on: September 13, 2017, 08:06:04 am »
Yeah - depends what holds at the start are damp etc.. I think the main difference between ways is some go up much earlier to the big crimpy edge with the RH (with a right heel on) then go left, rather than shuffling along low then heading up to the slopers...

I've seen this on a few vids. It basically isn't Zippy's.
I'm trying to run a high-class bureau-de-change

Offline highrepute

  • forum abuser
  • ****
  • Posts: 742
  • Karma: +61/-0
  • Blah
Re: UKB Power Club 393 4th - 10th September 2017
« Reply #32 on: September 13, 2017, 11:40:17 am »
Yeah - depends what holds at the start are damp etc.. I think the main difference between ways is some go up much earlier to the big crimpy edge with the RH (with a right heel on) then go left, rather than shuffling along low then heading up to the slopers...

I've seen this on a few vids. It basically isn't Zippy's.



Here you go. This video won't stay public for long; I'm wearing a wrist sweat band and a fleecy headband which is something I can't explain and find embarrassing. That was the first time I figured out a sequence that worked for me on Jericho.

Online tomtom

  • forum hero
  • *****
  • Posts: 15318
  • Karma: +455/-7
Re: UKB Power Club 393 4th - 10th September 2017
« Reply #33 on: September 13, 2017, 11:43:15 am »
That's pretty much how I think it goes (and Shark explained iirc). Though I go up with my RH from low and keep my feet under - but that's just a difference in method rather than line.

Offline dave

  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • *****
  • Posts: 18719
  • Karma: +598/-9
  • Wildcard Megos arch nemesis.
    • Dave's website etc
Re: UKB Power Club 393 4th - 10th September 2017
« Reply #34 on: September 13, 2017, 11:45:47 am »
Good arrows on the sweatband. That is indeed Zippys. Interesting that you went to to that crimp with the LH though, never seen it done like that, I thought most roll over to it with RH from LH on that slick blocky hold.

Good link here is to do Zippy's then finish up the 7b that starts in the same place as Moffatrocity (goes up left to the Superman finishing pocket). Can't remember if that one is Pink Indians or Brain Pollution. But anyway, doing Zippy's into this is a great problem.
I'm trying to run a high-class bureau-de-change

Offline Nibile

  • forum hero
  • *****
  • Posts: 6803
  • Karma: +611/-4
  • Part Animal Part Machine
    • TOTOLORE
Re: UKB Power Club 393 4th - 10th September 2017
« Reply #35 on: September 13, 2017, 01:27:28 pm »
I can't explain how strong is my desire to climb on Peak lime.
I leave a white and turbid wake; pale waters, paler cheeks, where'er I sail. The envious billows sidelong swell to whelm my track; let them; but first I pass.

the blog http://totolore.blogspot.com/

Offline highrepute

  • forum abuser
  • ****
  • Posts: 742
  • Karma: +61/-0
  • Blah
Re: UKB Power Club 393 4th - 10th September 2017
« Reply #36 on: September 13, 2017, 01:49:47 pm »
Good arrows on the sweatband. That is indeed Zippys. Interesting that you went to to that crimp with the LH though, never seen it done like that, I thought most roll over to it with RH from LH on that slick blocky hold.

Good link here is to do Zippy's then finish up the 7b that starts in the same place as Moffatrocity (goes up left to the Superman finishing pocket). Can't remember if that one is Pink Indians or Brain Pollution. But anyway, doing Zippy's into this is a great problem.

I've never seen anyone else do it so just did it like that. Rolling over sounds interesting, will try it.

Pink Indians. Always intended to do that link.

Offline nai

  • forum hero
  • *****
  • Posts: 3055
  • Karma: +137/-0
  • In my dreams
Re: UKB Power Club 393 4th - 10th September 2017
« Reply #37 on: September 13, 2017, 01:57:41 pm »
I can't explain how strong is my desire to climb on Peak lime.

make sure you read the rules first
Luck favours the Prepared

Offline yetix

  • newbie
  • *
  • Posts: 19
  • Karma: +1/-0
Re: UKB Power Club 393 4th - 10th September 2017
« Reply #38 on: September 13, 2017, 02:29:55 pm »
Good arrows on the sweatband. That is indeed Zippys. Interesting that you went to to that crimp with the LH though, never seen it done like that, I thought most roll over to it with RH from LH on that slick blocky hold.

Good link here is to do Zippy's then finish up the 7b that starts in the same place as Moffatrocity (goes up left to the Superman finishing pocket). Can't remember if that one is Pink Indians or Brain Pollution. But anyway, doing Zippy's into this is a great problem.

pretty sure thats going into pink indians :)

Offline Nibile

  • forum hero
  • *****
  • Posts: 6803
  • Karma: +611/-4
  • Part Animal Part Machine
    • TOTOLORE
Re: UKB Power Club 393 4th - 10th September 2017
« Reply #39 on: September 13, 2017, 02:31:16 pm »
I can't explain how strong is my desire to climb on Peak lime.

make sure you read the rules first
;D
I leave a white and turbid wake; pale waters, paler cheeks, where'er I sail. The envious billows sidelong swell to whelm my track; let them; but first I pass.

the blog http://totolore.blogspot.com/

Offline shark

  • Administrator
  • forum hero
  • *****
  • Posts: 5864
  • Karma: +391/-7
  • insect overlord #1
Re: UKB Power Club 393 4th - 10th September 2017
« Reply #40 on: September 13, 2017, 05:09:05 pm »
Good link here is to do Zippy's then finish up the 7b that starts in the same place as Moffatrocity (goes up left to the Superman finishing pocket). Can't remember if that one is Pink Indians or Brain Pollution. But anyway, doing Zippy's into this is a great problem.

Down at 7B+ on UKC https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=413834

Does that sound the right grade?
We're gonna need a bigger boat

Offline dave

  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • *****
  • Posts: 18719
  • Karma: +598/-9
  • Wildcard Megos arch nemesis.
    • Dave's website etc
Re: UKB Power Club 393 4th - 10th September 2017
« Reply #41 on: September 13, 2017, 05:17:49 pm »
Yeah probably about the right kinda ballpark.
I'm trying to run a high-class bureau-de-change