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Project 8a (Read 5792 times)

AJM

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#75 Re: Project 8a
September 12, 2017, 06:51:08 am
It's certainly worth a look!

If I can get the time away from the little one, I may see you there...

It definitely seems a different kettle of fish from Breathing Method, whose bouldering grade seems to go up the more people I talk to!

Andy W

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#76 Re: Project 8a
September 12, 2017, 08:27:13 am
I chose Cider Soak because its good, but after a session on that realised seeping was an issue, so on a wet day wandered up to the wave at Cheddar and was shown a short and shit route, 'Crystal something or other', so switched my attention.

I'm pretty keen to climb my first 8a before too long, but did you really get that sense of satisfaction from climbing something so bad you don't even remember the name? (Liquid Crystal I think). I'd love to climb Cider Soak because it's awesome, not just because it's 8a. One move currently shutting me down though.



I got satisfaction from hitting my goal, but yes it would have been much sweeter with Cider Soak, but it seeped, I only had five weeks window of opportunity and I wanted the tick!  ;)

Duma

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#77 Re: Project 8a
September 12, 2017, 08:39:25 am
The boulder problem on BM is nails. If you're at the cuttings Fighting Torque would probably be a better bet (was my first 8a).

At Cheddar something like Lion Sleeps Tonight would be a lot better and more memorable than anything on the wave.

andy popp

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#78 Re: Project 8a
September 12, 2017, 10:13:50 am
My dad projected an 8a aged 63. His approach was to choose a project local to where he lived (Dorset) and try it often over a number of months (probably approaching a year). To be fair, he actually probably did it in about 5 sessions once he worked out the right beta.

After each session he'd go away and work mainly on strength on his board. He made quite good progress just locking static holds with one hand and feet on, in positions similar to those he encountered on the route. He'd do 3 sets of 3 holding as long as he could. Seem to remember it was a fierce crimp, a weird sidepull and an undercut he worked.

He tried a few holiday 8as but went away empty handed as just never quite had the fitness. He figured it was easier to get strong and go bouldery as at his age it was hard for him to tolerate the volume required to get 8a endurance.


I am slightly dismayed by jwi's stats for climbing 7c in <5 goes. I was hoping to build up my volume of 7cs over next year or so but don't think I can do any of those feats. Maybe 3 if I had the boulder dialled. Must train harder!

I wish I could give your dad a wad point!!

Palomides

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#79 Re: Project 8a
September 12, 2017, 03:59:49 pm
That is well inspiring. In fact this whole thread is very inspiring, and extremely well timed for me..

Today I need to decide whether to renew my ffme licence or kick it in and go ride bikes this year. It's been a pretty poor climbing year - I think I fell off the Power Club wagon pretty quickly. But lots of the stuff above really resonates with me.

So here we go again... overall year plan:

Short Term : Sept to Jan - get strong, get bendy, maintain weight
Lots of bouldering, mixed limit sessions and more endurance based sessions at local walls. Fingerboard at least once a week.
Any rare outdoor climbing will be dependant on conditions - doing a few routes to stay used to outdoor footwork, checking out potential projects for later.
Stretching - I feel really stiff all over at the moment, still don't have full knee movement after operation last Feb (but no pain)
Weight - keep cycling to work, run once a week, but try not to get distracted by biking.. if I eat sensibly this should keep me around 72kg
Potential showstopper - possible arthritic fingers.. need to seriously evaluate performace on small holds. If I can't get back some crimp strength then it's game over for hard outdoor climbing and I'll just go biking (and buy a new bike, obviously).

Short Term Goal - regional Bouldering champs around Feb. Not be last, feel strong.

Medium Term : Feb to April - get fit
More route climbing, more endurance/stamina sessions. Keep up fingerboarding
Outdoor climbing as above, with more time on potential 7c/8a projects. Can't see myseklf being motivated for 7c+ for simple grade snobbery and limited outdoor time!
Be more careful with diet and maintain cycling to drop a couple of kgs.

Medium Term Goals - feel fit AND strong

April/May/June - projects. Should have found a route to do. Get it done.




GazM

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#80 Re: Project 8a
September 12, 2017, 05:47:33 pm
I wholeheartedly support the specific local project approach.

I've done a similar thing a couple of times, setting myself the goal of my first 7b+ before my wedding and then 7c before our baby is due.  I found local routes that I could try often and chip away at and train specifically for on my board, and both got done much quicker than expected.


ghisino

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#81 Re: Project 8a
September 28, 2017, 02:06:28 pm
interesting topic.

one approach would be to build a ticklist of intermediate projects in the same style as the 8a's you dream of.

it seems that short routes are your thing (you were mentioning l'olla) so i can mention a few destinations/sub sectors in France.
north to south:

Les Andelys (near Rouen). a few worthwhile routes in the 7's and 8's. the good crags are named bisexto and thuit. not a killer venue in itself but possibly a good intermediate stop.

La guignoterie (poitiers). pocketed 20m heaven, loads of fine 7's, good for a day heading to Tarn.

Tarn: focus on gullich and oasif sectors. barbitturique is a pupular burly 10 move 8a on 2 finger pockets, 45deg.

saussois: good intermediate stop heading south east. do not consider routes below 6b, too polished. brilliant 7s, especially chimpanzodrome (15 move 7c+)

st léger: a few good short and pinchy 8as in the begginning of face sud.

buoux: reve de papillon is an obvious short 8a, not that bouldery or fingery, possibly easier for the tall, not sandbagged. expect to get spanked on many easier routes though.


in spain, i would highly consider margalef for a grade quest. apart from grade softness consideration, the routes are really straightforward and do not require loads of experience at the grade in order to redpoint them quickly... siurana is quite the opposite, quick redpoint nightmare imho.



hstmoore

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#82 Re: Project 8a
September 29, 2017, 11:26:01 am
Great thread, lots of good advice in times for winter training. As I start my training this year I'm struggling to find a concrete goal to give myself something to aim towards so I'm going to give myself a fairly arbitrary but fun-looking one: Powerplant at the Cornice.

I've never been on Powerplant, only seen people climb it. There are plenty of UKB threads with beta but what I'd really like to know is how the route climbs and therefore what I should focus on training: Power endurance? Finger strength? Dynamic movement? etc. If anyone has any advice that would be much appreciated. Cheers!

Wood FT

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#83 Re: Project 8a
September 29, 2017, 12:33:19 pm
Great thread, lots of good advice in times for winter training. As I start my training this year I'm struggling to find a concrete goal to give myself something to aim towards so I'm going to give myself a fairly arbitrary but fun-looking one: Powerplant at the Cornice.

I've never been on Powerplant, only seen people climb it. There are plenty of UKB threads with beta but what I'd really like to know is how the route climbs and therefore what I should focus on training: Power endurance? Finger strength? Dynamic movement? etc. If anyone has any advice that would be much appreciated. Cheers!

Re: Powerplant - It climbs really well in my opinion and the top wall, in particular, has a bunch of really interesting holds. It took me ages to get through the knee bar section as for my height you have to keep a shed load of tension to reach the holds and be able to take your knee out. In terms of finger strength, I dunno, I was bouldering around f7a at that point and it didn't require anywhere near that, the smallest holds are a pair of slick one pad crimps you have to hold while moving your feet around for the kneebar. There are a fair few dynamic moves at the start with a big move up left to a sharp sidepull jug and also a butch move up to the aforementioned crimps. I'd train power endurance with big moves on relatively good holds, it's around 20-25 moves, stick a big chunky undercut to match around halfway. The caveat to all this is that I don't know much about training and the route took me ages, I guess I just got fit on it which is the best training there is. Message me for any beta when the time comes, it's etched into my brain.

nai

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#84 Re: Project 8a
September 29, 2017, 05:48:37 pm
I guess I just got fit on it which is the best training there is.

took me ages

 :???:


Wood FT

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#85 Re: Project 8a
September 29, 2017, 05:58:44 pm
smart arse

nash1

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#86 Re: Project 8a
November 01, 2017, 10:47:41 am
I was dangling on my chosen 8a the other day on a grigri/traxion. It is soooo possible, all the moves are there. Main problem was skin and shoe pain, but that will improve by doing a bit more all round climbing. Now, how to get the endurance for the route with not enough time on my hands will need discipline...

stone

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#87 Re: Project 8a
November 01, 2017, 03:30:29 pm
There is a certain amount of leeway between individuals' ability to climb a given grade quickly and to climb a (harder) grade eventually. Some people are great at being able to summon that decisive "get the job done" attitude needed for quick ascents. I'd love to be better at that. I've long had a half-arsed aspiration to do a 7b+ in a day but have never managed it. But I have done a few 8a+ after extensive sieging. So if you want to climb a route, enjoy dangling on it, but can't do the various precondition feats people suggest and don't envisage getting the training you need, perhaps just siege it out :) . But I would say for myself it helps to mix it up with getting on other stuff too (eg bouldering and easier routes).

monkoffunk

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#88 Re: Project 8a
November 01, 2017, 04:45:56 pm
That's quite a decrepancy, I'd admire your seige commitment! I've done a couple of 7c in a day, one second go, but never climbed a harder grade. Definitely feel that is is an underperformance. Hopefully will put this right soon, I've spent a few months bouldering for a Font trip, and now that I'm back plan on getting on Fighting Torque as exclusively as I can over winter. Feel it's a good choice due to the short lived nature of the spicy bit. Should suit a transition from bouldering back to sport.

stone

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#89 Re: Project 8a
November 01, 2017, 05:15:58 pm
I just (belately) looked at the start of this thread and saw that Yossarian is based on the South East coast. Might Adrenachrome at Lulworth be a suitable target but with Fighting Torque at The Cuttings (as monkoffunk just mentioned) as a stormy seas bail-to alternative. Years ago I had a great midwinter day climbing with ropes at Lulworth Stairhole cave.   

Wood FT

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#90 Re: Project 8a
November 01, 2017, 05:25:35 pm
I just (belately) looked at the start of this thread and saw that Yossarian is based on the South East coast. Might Adrenachrome at Lulworth be a suitable target but with Fighting Torque at The Cuttings (as monkoffunk just mentioned) as a stormy seas bail-to alternative. Years ago I had a great midwinter day climbing with ropes at Lulworth Stairhole cave.

How did you get back in from lowering off Adrenachrome?

SA Chris

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#91 Re: Project 8a
November 01, 2017, 05:58:26 pm
Swim.

remus

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#92 Re: Project 8a
November 01, 2017, 06:13:56 pm
I just (belately) looked at the start of this thread and saw that Yossarian is based on the South East coast. Might Adrenachrome at Lulworth be a suitable target but with Fighting Torque at The Cuttings (as monkoffunk just mentioned) as a stormy seas bail-to alternative. Years ago I had a great midwinter day climbing with ropes at Lulworth Stairhole cave.

Might just be because I've been trying it soup up, but Adrenochrome feels very meaty to me. Potentially tricky to get in condition too (lots of sea smeg). Fighting torqu on the other hand is a much more reasonable proposition!

stone

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#93 Re: Project 8a
November 01, 2017, 06:58:49 pm
I just (belately) looked at the start of this thread and saw that Yossarian is based on the South East coast. Might Adrenachrome at Lulworth be a suitable target but with Fighting Torque at The Cuttings (as monkoffunk just mentioned) as a stormy seas bail-to alternative. Years ago I had a great midwinter day climbing with ropes at Lulworth Stairhole cave.

Might just be because I've been trying it soup up, but Adrenochrome feels very meaty to me. Potentially tricky to get in condition too (lots of sea smeg). Fighting torqu on the other hand is a much more reasonable proposition!
I didn't get on Adrenachrome, I just did Lulworth Arms Treaty and 7b was my limit back then. But as a midwinter roped climbing venue, Stairhole Cave seemed great. The winter sun shines straight into the cave (the summer sun is too high in the sky to shine in). Apparently that makes smeg much less of an issue in winter than in summer (I suppose it's the rock-warmer-than-the-air-so-no-condensation phenomenon). On that day I was there, conditions were great and the local (Pete Oxley no less!) I was with gave the impression that that was to be expected in winter.
I also had great tuition about getting the gear out and rope down keeping everything dry. Pete climbed Mark of the Beast that day and also kept his rope dry and he'd climbed Adrenachrome with ropes before the DWS era.  I have to confess that, 15years later, I've forgotten what that stripping method was :) but I remember that it was quick and easy -could it just have been stripping as you would on dry land but then whipping the rope in so momentum takes it to the ledge when you pull it? I've been doing that to cope with quagmire mud in the Peak :)
« Last Edit: November 01, 2017, 07:05:19 pm by stone »

monkoffunk

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#94 Re: Project 8a
November 01, 2017, 07:07:07 pm
Adrenochrome roped would be quite a faff for a first 8a and tough as a solo. Bit of a pain driving to Portland too as a bail out.
« Last Edit: November 01, 2017, 07:14:10 pm by monkoffunk »

nai

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#95 Re: Project 8a
November 01, 2017, 07:18:02 pm
I just did Lulworth Arms Treaty and 7b was my limit back then.

In a day?

stone

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#96 Re: Project 8a
November 02, 2017, 11:29:59 am
I just did Lulworth Arms Treaty and 7b was my limit back then.

In a day?
Yes that was before I turned-to-the-dark-side/ saw-the-light with regards to sieging and my best in-a-day red point grade (7b) was also my best overall red point grade. Since then, I've failed to improve on the in-a-day grade. My onsighting "progress" has been even worse -my only ever 7a+ onsight was the first 7a+ I managed by any means. I guess it is partly because Dorset used to be my closest climbing and I used to often have days attempting 6a to 7a onsighting. Since moving near to the Peak I instead dangle from 7b+ to 8a+ routes (because the better sport routes here are mostly trickier). It's all fresh air and exercise though.

AJM

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#97 Re: Project 8a
November 02, 2017, 12:38:45 pm
I just (belately) looked at the start of this thread and saw that Yossarian is based on the South East coast. Might Adrenachrome at Lulworth be a suitable target but with Fighting Torque at The Cuttings (as monkoffunk just mentioned) as a stormy seas bail-to alternative. Years ago I had a great midwinter day climbing with ropes at Lulworth Stairhole cave.

Might just be because I've been trying it soup up, but Adrenochrome feels very meaty to me. Potentially tricky to get in condition too (lots of sea smeg). Fighting torqu on the other hand is a much more reasonable proposition!

I've also been told that October and onwards is best for conditions at Lulworth because of the lower sun angle. Not that it's relevant for this but apparently Blackers can be good over winter as well, I assume partly for similar reasons.

Mark Lloyd

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#98 Re: Project 8a
November 02, 2017, 12:53:13 pm
You would have flashed Marshall Music too if someone had given you enough quick draws, oops

monkoffunk

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#99 Re: Project 8a
November 07, 2017, 09:53:19 am
Had a few goes on Fighting Torque yesterday. All but one of the moves done and a couple of clips to sort out but certainly all felt possible! Don't want to jinx it but should go this winter if get down there enough!
(If anyone else tries it, the massive tick marks aren't mine...)