Author Topic: Project 8a  (Read 3815 times)

Offline AJM

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Re: Project 8a
« Reply #75 on: September 12, 2017, 06:51:08 am »
It's certainly worth a look!

If I can get the time away from the little one, I may see you there...

It definitely seems a different kettle of fish from Breathing Method, whose bouldering grade seems to go up the more people I talk to!

Offline Andy W

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Re: Project 8a
« Reply #76 on: September 12, 2017, 08:27:13 am »
I chose Cider Soak because its good, but after a session on that realised seeping was an issue, so on a wet day wandered up to the wave at Cheddar and was shown a short and shit route, 'Crystal something or other', so switched my attention.

I'm pretty keen to climb my first 8a before too long, but did you really get that sense of satisfaction from climbing something so bad you don't even remember the name? (Liquid Crystal I think). I'd love to climb Cider Soak because it's awesome, not just because it's 8a. One move currently shutting me down though.



I got satisfaction from hitting my goal, but yes it would have been much sweeter with Cider Soak, but it seeped, I only had five weeks window of opportunity and I wanted the tick!  ;)

Offline Duma

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Re: Project 8a
« Reply #77 on: September 12, 2017, 08:39:25 am »
The boulder problem on BM is nails. If you're at the cuttings Fighting Torque would probably be a better bet (was my first 8a).

At Cheddar something like Lion Sleeps Tonight would be a lot better and more memorable than anything on the wave.
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Online andy popp

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Re: Project 8a
« Reply #78 on: September 12, 2017, 10:13:50 am »
My dad projected an 8a aged 63. His approach was to choose a project local to where he lived (Dorset) and try it often over a number of months (probably approaching a year). To be fair, he actually probably did it in about 5 sessions once he worked out the right beta.

After each session he'd go away and work mainly on strength on his board. He made quite good progress just locking static holds with one hand and feet on, in positions similar to those he encountered on the route. He'd do 3 sets of 3 holding as long as he could. Seem to remember it was a fierce crimp, a weird sidepull and an undercut he worked.

He tried a few holiday 8as but went away empty handed as just never quite had the fitness. He figured it was easier to get strong and go bouldery as at his age it was hard for him to tolerate the volume required to get 8a endurance.


I am slightly dismayed by jwi's stats for climbing 7c in <5 goes. I was hoping to build up my volume of 7cs over next year or so but don't think I can do any of those feats. Maybe 3 if I had the boulder dialled. Must train harder!

I wish I could give your dad a wad point!!
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Offline Palomides

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Re: Project 8a
« Reply #79 on: September 12, 2017, 03:59:49 pm »
That is well inspiring. In fact this whole thread is very inspiring, and extremely well timed for me..

Today I need to decide whether to renew my ffme licence or kick it in and go ride bikes this year. It's been a pretty poor climbing year - I think I fell off the Power Club wagon pretty quickly. But lots of the stuff above really resonates with me.

So here we go again... overall year plan:

Short Term : Sept to Jan - get strong, get bendy, maintain weight
Lots of bouldering, mixed limit sessions and more endurance based sessions at local walls. Fingerboard at least once a week.
Any rare outdoor climbing will be dependant on conditions - doing a few routes to stay used to outdoor footwork, checking out potential projects for later.
Stretching - I feel really stiff all over at the moment, still don't have full knee movement after operation last Feb (but no pain)
Weight - keep cycling to work, run once a week, but try not to get distracted by biking.. if I eat sensibly this should keep me around 72kg
Potential showstopper - possible arthritic fingers.. need to seriously evaluate performace on small holds. If I can't get back some crimp strength then it's game over for hard outdoor climbing and I'll just go biking (and buy a new bike, obviously).

Short Term Goal - regional Bouldering champs around Feb. Not be last, feel strong.

Medium Term : Feb to April - get fit
More route climbing, more endurance/stamina sessions. Keep up fingerboarding
Outdoor climbing as above, with more time on potential 7c/8a projects. Can't see myseklf being motivated for 7c+ for simple grade snobbery and limited outdoor time!
Be more careful with diet and maintain cycling to drop a couple of kgs.

Medium Term Goals - feel fit AND strong

April/May/June - projects. Should have found a route to do. Get it done.



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Offline GazM

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Re: Project 8a
« Reply #80 on: September 12, 2017, 05:47:33 pm »
I wholeheartedly support the specific local project approach.

I've done a similar thing a couple of times, setting myself the goal of my first 7b+ before my wedding and then 7c before our baby is due.  I found local routes that I could try often and chip away at and train specifically for on my board, and both got done much quicker than expected.