Author Topic: Ondra climb his flatanger project 9c  (Read 4880 times)

Offline haydn jones

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Ondra climb his flatanger project 9c
« on: September 03, 2017, 05:55:41 pm »
maybe he has climbed it, not 100% sure.
https://www.instagram.com/p/BYlfSbsl9Hq/?hl=en&taken-by=adam.ondra
also gaz parry on FB says he has.

Offline haydn jones

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Re: Ondra climb his flatanger project 9c
« Reply #1 on: September 03, 2017, 05:56:31 pm »
can anyone confirm this to be true, if its not mods delete this post

Offline haydn jones

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Re: Ondra climb his flatanger project 9c
« Reply #2 on: September 03, 2017, 06:20:16 pm »
ok this is now confirmed from BLANK... GET FUCKING PSYCHED 9c!!!!!!!!!
 :strongbench: :strongbench: :strongbench: :strongbench: :strongbench: :strongbench: :strongbench: :strongbench: :strongbench: :strongbench: :strongbench:

Offline Wood FT

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Re: Ondra climb his flatanger project 9c
« Reply #3 on: September 03, 2017, 06:27:50 pm »
Yes!
Limestone means Limestone

Offline IanP

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Re: Ondra climb his flatanger project 9c
« Reply #4 on: September 03, 2017, 06:28:40 pm »
Also confirmed by James Riley (whose out there) on Facebook  :jaw:

Liking the gnomic instagram post!

Offline Coops_13

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Re: Ondra climb his flatanger project 9c
« Reply #5 on: September 03, 2017, 06:59:15 pm »
 :o

Offline bigironhorse

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Re: Ondra climb his flatanger project 9c
« Reply #6 on: September 03, 2017, 07:01:28 pm »
 :strongbench:

Offline gme

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Re: Ondra climb his flatanger project 9c
« Reply #7 on: September 03, 2017, 09:02:42 pm »
 Amazing. Can't wait for the footage.

It's frightening to think that neither he or the cave has even reached maturity yet. This was the easiest of his projects.

Offline jwi

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Re: Ondra climb his flatanger project 9c
« Reply #8 on: September 03, 2017, 09:35:18 pm »
No way that's 9c. 8b into a kneebar into an 9b+ cannot be more than 9b+. By extrapolation (by quite a bit :lol:)

Offline Doylo

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Re: Ondra climb his flatanger project 9c
« Reply #9 on: September 04, 2017, 08:27:03 am »
As I looked through the Ondra posts on my Insta I noticed fellow leading sport climber Megos hadn't liked any of them. Yet he'd liked something else randomly in between them all. I reckon there's Defo beef there. Or maybe he's just bitter now he's two grades off the pace.  :P

Offline Fiend

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Re: Ondra climb his flatanger project 9c
« Reply #10 on: September 04, 2017, 10:53:48 am »
9c :jaw:

https://www.facebook.com/adamondrafanpage/photos/a.880349645378884.1073741828.880346022045913/1449812308432612/?type=3&theater

Awesome stuff. What a beast. Cutting edge bouldering in the middle of a massive route. The future is now.

Edit: removed question mark from grade.
Contact me about climbing on email / txt / facebook if needed.

Offline jwi

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Re: Ondra climb his flatanger project 9c
« Reply #11 on: September 04, 2017, 12:17:45 pm »
That's a fanpage, not run by Ondra or his management. But fair enough, Ondra seems to confirm 9c : http://www.mytendon.com/adam-ondra-climbs-the-worlds-first-9c-515d

Offline andy popp

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Re: Ondra climb his flatanger project 9c
« Reply #12 on: September 04, 2017, 01:06:49 pm »
I still find news like this totally inspiring. Its been an incredible couple of years, with the Dawn Wall (FA and repeat), Nalle climbing the Lappnor project, Honnold soloing El Cap and now this.
old skool tie

Offline jwi

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Re: Ondra climb his flatanger project 9c
« Reply #13 on: September 04, 2017, 01:26:55 pm »
Which one will be repeated first? Burden of dreams, Freerider solo or this? (I'd wager Burden of dreams if I were a betting man)

Offline andy popp

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Re: Ondra climb his flatanger project 9c
« Reply #14 on: September 04, 2017, 01:38:35 pm »
That would be my bet too ... but its location might be a factor. A lot of the wads visit Flatanger pretty regularly.
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Offline IanP

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Re: Ondra climb his flatanger project 9c
« Reply #15 on: September 04, 2017, 01:49:48 pm »
A lot of the wads visit Flatanger pretty regularly.

It does seem like it is the place to be in the summer but nobody has been able to do the 'easier' test pieces (Change, Move) yet so this one might be waiting a bit longer.  Looks like Seb Bouin has been trying Move for a good chunk of the summer, no tick yet but maybe this will give him that extra bit of psyche needed!

Offline dave

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Re: Ondra climb his flatanger project 9c
« Reply #16 on: September 04, 2017, 02:03:24 pm »
You see using Ted's logic 8b into a kneebar rest into 9b+ should be easier than the 9b+ on it's own, because he'll just be nicely warmed up by the time he hits the 9b+, so I'm sounding the armchair downgrade klaxon folks.
I'm trying to run a high-class bureau-de-change

Offline jwi

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Re: Ondra climb his flatanger project 9c
« Reply #17 on: September 04, 2017, 02:11:48 pm »
Does a 7a to a kneebar to an 8a+ make an 8b? No. Clearly not. The 7a doesn't matter either way.

Offline jwi

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Re: Ondra climb his flatanger project 9c
« Reply #18 on: September 04, 2017, 02:17:51 pm »
That would be my bet too ... but its location might be a factor. A lot of the wads visit Flatanger pretty regularly.

How many of the wads have done more than one or two 9b? Sharma who's unlikely to leave Barcelona for long stretches of time, Megos who's unlikely to work anything for more than a few days, Schubert, who's busy with competition, Amma, who's quit climbing, and eh... I'm starting to draw blanks here... Gisolfi? who's also busy with comps.

Offline abarro81

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Re: Ondra climb his flatanger project 9c
« Reply #19 on: September 04, 2017, 02:43:01 pm »
Does a 7a to a kneebar to an 8a+ make an 8b? No. Clearly not. The 7a doesn't matter either way.

It probably often does make an 8b, it's just that people sometimes kid themselves that the top bit would be 8b if were off the deck, which it wouldn't be... This is especially true when the upper section starts with a hard bouldery bit (or is a hard bouldery bit an nothing more). Off the top of my head I can think of a few things that roughly fit into this category.

Offline T_B

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Re: Ondra climb his flatanger project 9c
« Reply #20 on: September 04, 2017, 02:47:53 pm »
Does a 7a to a kneebar to an 8a+ make an 8b? No. Clearly not. The 7a doesn't matter either way.

It probably often does make an 8b, it's just that people sometimes kid themselves that the top bit would be 8b if were off the deck, which it wouldn't be... This is especially true when the upper section starts with a hard bouldery bit (or is a hard bouldery bit an nothing more). Off the top of my head I can think of a few things that roughly fit into this category.

Exactly. Or just a few big pulls.

Evo. Back int day Sellers linked from the block under the roof to the belay after just a few days. Then took 20+ days to redpoint the route.

Offline Nibile

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Re: Ondra climb his flatanger project 9c
« Reply #21 on: September 04, 2017, 03:07:31 pm »
As I looked through the Ondra posts on my Insta I noticed fellow leading sport climber Megos hadn't liked any of them. Yet he'd liked something else randomly in between them all. I reckon there's Defo beef there. Or maybe he's just bitter now he's two grades off the pace.  :P
Not to mention that he's pretending to ignore my deadhanging videos...
Must be a tough moment for him.
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Offline Doylo

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Re: Ondra climb his flatanger project 9c
« Reply #22 on: September 04, 2017, 03:31:43 pm »
As I looked through the Ondra posts on my Insta I noticed fellow leading sport climber Megos hadn't liked any of them. Yet he'd liked something else randomly in between them all. I reckon there's Defo beef there. Or maybe he's just bitter now he's two grades off the pace.  :P
Not to mention that he's pretending to ignore my deadhanging videos...
Must be a tough moment for him.

It's just a theory for now until proven.  :lol: Bitchiness must have always existed at the top. Moons overgrading article in OTE in the mid 90s is classic.

Offline cowboyhat

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Re: Ondra climb his flatanger project 9c
« Reply #23 on: September 04, 2017, 03:37:31 pm »
As I looked through the Ondra posts on my Insta I noticed fellow leading sport climber Megos hadn't liked any of them. Yet he'd liked something else randomly in between them all. I reckon there's Defo beef there. Or maybe he's just bitter now he's two grades off the pace.  :P
Not to mention that he's pretending to ignore my deadhanging videos...
Must be a tough moment for him.


Tell me there is an instagram with you staring down the barrel, curling your lip saying you're very happy!?
Thats how you do it though isn't it...

Offline JohnM

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Re: Ondra climb his flatanger project 9c
« Reply #24 on: September 04, 2017, 03:50:57 pm »
Quote
Amma, who's quit climbing

Has he?