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Warming up for a fingerboard session (Read 1475 times)

Alex Smurthwaite

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Warming up for a fingerboard session
August 24, 2017, 08:03:22 pm
How do people get sufficiently warmed up for a session at home?

Since injuring two pulleys ive become a lot more conscious of not jumping straight into deadhangs

I use a squeezy ball and do some hangs with feet on the floor

Any other methods/tips?
 
cheers

abarro81

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#1 Re: Warming up for a fingerboard session
August 24, 2017, 08:48:24 pm
Begin to weight holds, then begin to hang... gradually increase difficulty and duration until warm  :shrug:

webbo

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#2 Re: Warming up for a fingerboard session
August 24, 2017, 08:53:55 pm
It would depend on what other training facilities you've got. I usually do 20 to 30 easy problems to warm up . However when unable to climb first I usually do a weight session first.

tomtom

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#3 Re: Warming up for a fingerboard session
August 24, 2017, 10:25:40 pm
I normally just start on the large holds. When training away from home (hotels) on door frame edges etc - I deadhang with my feet on a chair - then progressivlly move the chair backwards (away from you) which steadily increases the finger load.

gme

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#4 Re: Warming up for a fingerboard session
August 24, 2017, 10:28:40 pm
I find getting warmed up i.e. Running around, skipping etc is more important than what I do on the board.
Presently do 10 mins on rowing machine. Then start at body weight and add 5kg each hang until max is reached. Fully warmed.
If I omit the first bit it takes much longer.

moose

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#5 Re: Warming up for a fingerboard session
August 24, 2017, 10:38:29 pm
Personally I'm a bit of a "Birkett warm-up" type: two or three chin-ups off the top of my board, then straight into 4 sets of repeaters: each set is 6x 7/3s, first on an 18 mm edge, then 14 mm, then 12 mm, then 10 mm; 2 mins rest between each set. 

If I'm using the finger board on a weekend morning, to warm-up before a red-pointing session at Malham / Kilnsey, I'll add a few extra "max" style hangs - single hangs of 10s on a 10 mm, 9mm, 8mm then a 7 mm edge.  Slight confidence boost to arrive at the crag knowing that your fingers are possibly already more than equal to whatever is to come (though with Kilnsey conditions recently, I would have to cover my fingerboard in lard to get a comparable experience).

If I'm doing a dedicated fingerboard session, on an evening afterwork (not done for a while - prefer the woodie), usually continue my warmup with 10s hangs on my chosen hold with gradually increasing weights (50%, 80% and 90% of eventual maximum load). 

Muenchener

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#6 Re: Warming up for a fingerboard session
August 25, 2017, 07:14:50 am
I'm doing "no hangs" at the moment due to a shoulder issue - deadlifting weights using a finger edge that I constructed using one of the moon campus rungs with holes - so I just start with a light weight, about 60-70% of the target weight, and work up over a few sets.

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#7 Re: Warming up for a fingerboard session
August 25, 2017, 07:26:39 am
Personally I'm a bit of a "Birkett warm-up" type: two or three chin-ups off the top of my board, then straight into 4 sets of repeaters: each set is 6x 7/3s, first on an 18 mm edge, then 14 mm, then 12 mm, then 10 mm; 2 mins rest between each set. 

Just to clarify, are all of those 4 sets of repeaters your warm-up? Is any of it part of the main session?



moose

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#8 Re: Warming up for a fingerboard session
August 25, 2017, 07:55:47 am
the sets of repeaters are part of my warm-up - whether it's a warm-up before going to the Kilnsey (I find the  Directissima doesn't do it for me), or a warm up before my usual "Lopez style" session of max hangs (lots of added weight, single 10s hangs, 2.5-3 mins apart).

tomtom

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#9 Re: Warming up for a fingerboard session
August 25, 2017, 08:01:23 am
Being controversial... and a slight hijack..

My 'best' ever bouldering performances have been with minimal warm up...

If I'm well rested (2-3 days off) a couple of problems/moves to get the right muscles fired up and it happens..

What I do find, however, is that if I'm climbing more frequently (every other day for example) then I need to warm up for considerably longer to get past the aching arms and shoulders left over from the last session etc...

gme

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#10 Re: Warming up for a fingerboard session
August 25, 2017, 08:18:10 am
I couldn't be more opposite. Bigger breaks more warm up.

abarro81

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#11 Re: Warming up for a fingerboard session
August 25, 2017, 08:42:19 am
The older I get the more warm-up I need...

tomtom

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#12 Re: Warming up for a fingerboard session
August 25, 2017, 09:39:01 am
The older I get the more warm-up I need...

LMAO - I nearly fell off my (oap) chair chuckling at that... you've at least 15 years before you can start using age related excuses Barrows ;)

jwi

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#13 Re: Warming up for a fingerboard session
August 25, 2017, 09:40:56 am
The older I get the more warm-up I need...

+1.

At 44, most of my climbing sessions is just a long warm-up.

StillTryingForTheTop

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#14 Re: Warming up for a fingerboard session
August 25, 2017, 10:17:37 am
I do 5-10 minutes of general aerobic (shuttle runs, star jumps, ascending pull ups - start at 2, then 3, then 4, then 5 and push ups)

I start with long hangs on big holds (BM1000), then some more pull ups, then increasing shorter hangs on increasingly smaller holds

my fingerboard warm up routine looks like

- Jugs for 30 seconds
- 4 fingers in the deep pocket for 30 seconds
- 3 fingers in the deep pocket for 30 seconds
- 6 pull ups on jugs
- 6 pull ups, 4 fingers in deep pockets
- Offset 10 seconds (left hand on sloper, right hand bottom crimp), 5 second rest and then (right hand on sloper, left hand bottom crimp)
- Offset 10 seconds (left hand on sloper, right hand bottom crimp), 5 second rest and then (right hand on sloper, left hand bottom crimp)
- As long as I can pull on the bottom edges (Half crimp)
- As long as I can pull on the smallest edges (Half crimp)

2 minute rest between each.

highrepute

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#15 Re: Warming up for a fingerboard session
August 25, 2017, 11:13:10 am
1. Run up and down the stairs 3 times
2. Go through a theraband routine aimed at shoulders, triceps, biceps, rotator cuffs (5mins)
3. Feet on chair stay on fingerboard swapping hands and varying grips, bit like aerocap (5-10mins)
4. Pullups in a bunch of grips types, jug, crimp, middle2, front2, bcack3. Aim for 5 pulls on each grip.
5. 1 or 2 slightly reduced intensity hang sets. Either larger holds or less/no weight added.

Ready to go!

duncan

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#16 Re: Warming up for a fingerboard session
August 25, 2017, 12:54:45 pm
I’m no expert. My main suggestion is to develop a habitual routine, this makes it harder to short-cut the warm-up. Warming-up is also mental preparation, going through the same ritual every time is probably as important as what you actually do. Lots of good ideas above, experiment with some, chose one, or invent your own. Then stick to it.


I do the following before a session of repeaters:

1. Brief shoulder prehab. Nothing hard, but enough to remind the relevant muscles they have a job to do: 5-6 reps of each of side planks, press-ups, military press, bent over rows. I train in a warm room so I don’t try to raise my core temperature any other way. 

Short rest.

2. Hang from big hold I’m really comfortable on. If I’ve not been training much, this could even be a pull-up bar. Do ‘repeaters’: 1 second on, 1 second off x 6 reps. I’m just engaging shoulders, easing the weight off my feet, then immediately lowering. Rest as long as the set (12-15 seconds) then repeat. Then do the same with 2 secs on, 2 secs off (6 reps. x 2 sets). Then 3 secs on, 3 secs off. Finally 5secs on, 5secs off. No need to time the hangs accurately, just count numbers.

Two minute rest.

3. Repeat this process on a smaller hold.

Two minute rest.

4. Repeat the process on the hold(s) and with the grip(s) I'm going to be training in the session.

Two or three minute rest, then go for it.


This all takes 20-25 minutes. If I’m not feeling great I’ll pull the plug and call that my session [/jwi].

The last set (5 seconds on, 5 seconds off) feels like ~80% intensity of beastmaker-style (7 seconds on, 3 seconds off) repeaters, which is about right for a warm-up I think. If you're training max. hangs you might want to further increase the load but do fewer reps.

Doylo

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#17 Re: Warming up for a fingerboard session
August 25, 2017, 12:58:50 pm
I just have a  :wank:

SA Chris

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#18 Re: Warming up for a fingerboard session
August 25, 2017, 02:24:52 pm
If in doubt, obvious choice.

andy_e

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#19 Re: Warming up for a fingerboard session
August 25, 2017, 02:44:13 pm
I just have a  :wank:

One with both arms? Or one on each arm?

36chambers

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#20 Re: Warming up for a fingerboard session
August 25, 2017, 03:37:44 pm
I just have a  :wank:

30 seconds is a pretty short warm up though

Doylo

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#21 Re: Warming up for a fingerboard session
August 25, 2017, 04:43:53 pm
I just have a  :wank:

30 seconds is a pretty short warm up though

Bit longer. No wifi in the garage.

DAVETHOMAS90

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#22 Re: Warming up for a fingerboard session
August 25, 2017, 04:53:16 pm
The best warm up for me, seems to be a session at Broomgrove wall in Sheffield - very fingery vertical climbing. Always performed well after that. Alternatively, if starting from cold, at home, I use a set of bathroom scales. Standing on the scales, I vary the load/fingers/grip. Of course, as you increase the load, the number on the scales goes down. I either continue on the scales - especially with single hand pulls - or transfer to bodyweight. As you increase the load, your feet naturally come off the scales anyway. I find this a brilliant way to warm up. Give it a go and report back!  :2thumbsup:

Alex Smurthwaite

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#23 Re: Warming up for a fingerboard session
August 25, 2017, 10:49:30 pm
Standing on the scales, I vary the load/fingers/grip. Of course, as you increase the load, the number on the scales goes down. I either continue on the scales - especially with single hand pulls - or transfer to bodyweight. As you increase the load, your feet naturally come off the scales anyway. I find this a brilliant way to warm up. Give it a go and report back!  :2thumbsup:

I'll give this a go. Always wondered how much weight I can hold one armed on an edge. Useful for gauging improvements

Alex Smurthwaite

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#24 Re: Warming up for a fingerboard session
August 25, 2017, 10:51:32 pm
I just have a  :wank:

30 seconds is a pretty short warm up though

Bit longer. No wifi in the garage.

Have to make do with old climbing mags and posters  :lol:

tomtom

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#25 Re: Warming up for a fingerboard session
August 26, 2017, 09:59:24 am
I just have a  :wank:

30 seconds is a pretty short warm up though

:D beat me to it..

rodma

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#26 Re: Warming up for a fingerboard session
August 27, 2017, 07:21:12 pm
I just have a  :wank:

30 seconds is a pretty short warm up though

:D beat me to it..
Force out a second set without any rest, then you'll definitely be warmed up  :strongbench:

Mark Lloyd

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#27 Re: Warming up for a fingerboard session
September 13, 2017, 09:22:54 pm
The best warm up for me, seems to be a session at Broomgrove wall in Sheffield - very fingery vertical climbing. Always performed well after that. Alternatively, if starting from cold, at home, I use a set of bathroom scales. Standing on the scales, I vary the load/fingers/grip. Of course, as you increase the load, the number on the scales goes down. I either continue on the scales - especially with single hand pulls - or transfer to bodyweight. As you increase the load, your feet naturally come off the scales anyway. I find this a brilliant way to warm up. Give it a go and report back!  :2thumbsup:
I thought Broomgrove was scheduled to be demolished ? obviously not