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UKB Power Club 390 14th - 20th August (Read 8494 times)

fried

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UKB Power Club 390 14th - 20th August
August 20, 2017, 06:25:41 pm
Lots of indoor stuff

M- Back from hols and tired
Tu- Indoors lots of volume on easy stuff, feeling good....except for the sciatica that's been playing up since the weekend. Better climbing than sat at home. Didn't push it much.

We - As above but back a bit better, started running through the 6Aish stuff that'd been put up.
Th - Rest
Fr - Indoors again, lots of stuff done in the 6A/B range, moving a bit better though still a bit sore.

Sa - Waited in all day for a mobile phone that never came...back back to square one.
Su- Slept badly, woke up sore, went to Rocher d'Avon for the second time ever, ticked some 5s, good fun didn't go too high. Walking like a robot.

Stopped in for a pint at a new beer bar that's opened down my street..the bobos have arrived. Nice pint though.

4 sessions and climbing as well as I ever have.....don't get injured.


Wood FT

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#1 Re: UKB Power Club 390 14th - 20th August
August 20, 2017, 08:07:01 pm
Cheers fried

STG:Blue Planet 7b+ DWS, Leather Whip Mick 8a
MTG: Cider Soak 8a, 8a+
LTG: 8b

Mon -
Tue -
Wed - LQP DWS + Ansteys. Started on the crystal buttress 6a+ and a great 6c then had 3 goes on Blue Planet with my first go being the best go trying to match the awkward undercut, hit the bottom 3rd go so stopped trying. Had a go on the first half of Patpence 8a+ which links an easier start into the top of the classic 8b Tuppence. Hard moves but very cool and dynamic, I will need to do a lot of specific work to make this feel doable but I am inspired. Finished on Empire of the Sun putting the clips in, feels good to feel fit on this.   
Thu -
Fri -
Sat - Brean Down, predictably hot but a nice enough breeze. Started on Chepito and Pearl Harbour 7a, nice simple enjoyable climbing. Put the clips in Storm Warning 7c+ and climbed it next go having been on it a few months ago (5th tie on in total), I milked the rest of Chulilla so felt 7c for me but I can definitely see it feeling 7c+ if you just plough on. Finished by doing Kraken 6b+(!) and Chepito twice more, that's training isn't it Steve R?! (F U). The brown tide came in so had to walk out the choss doom way, lovely view from up there.
Sun - 8 mile walk in Devon Drizzle, spangled.


TobyD

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#2 Re: UKB Power Club 390 14th - 20th August
August 20, 2017, 11:11:55 pm
Cheers fried

Put the clips in Storm Warning 7c+ and climbed it next go having been on it a few months ago (5th tie on in total), I milked the rest of Chulilla so felt 7c for me but I can definitely see it feeling 7c+ if you just plough on. Finished by doing Kraken 6b+(!) and Chepito twice more, that's training isn't it Steve R?! (F U). The brown tide came in so had to walk out the choss doom way, lovely view from up there.

nice Guy; and I like that high walk out once in a while, good views (other than Weston!)


My week
STG: peak 7b-c x 5 before the weather goes shit. Do some trad before the weather goes shit.
MTG: work and try a local 8a, hopefully do or at least put in a really good RP on, by NY
LTG: 8a+ abroad in March

Monday 14th August Yoga morning, foundry evening 10 laps 7a rest 1.5*work

Tuesday 15th August Yoga morning 7k run in the evening

Wednesday 16th August Yoga morning; Moat buttress tried garderobe 7b+, got pretty psyched it's a really good route

Thursday 17th yoga am; Smalldale with Keith. 6c x2, 7a, 7a+

Friday 18th yoga am run 7.5km on roads

Saturday 19th drove to very rainy wcj, bailed and went for a really good training session at the foundry with tom s. tried to flash 10 x 6c-7c each, no saying take, you get lowered as soon as you fall, really good for building lead confidence / motivation to go for it. conditioning afterwards.


Sunday 20th garderobe busy, so ended up trying king arthritis as only had 2-3 hours at the crag, worked it a bit and got 1 rp in when I got really close to the rest, a bit frustrating but i should do it on a return session. It'll be a dilemma whether to get on that or garderobe now though. went to griffs butress, and mostly drunk tea and chatted other than trying ovine or bovine a couple of times, i cant remember which, until felt pretty tired - thus really only a couple of times!

Murph

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#3 Re: UKB Power Club 390 14th - 20th August
August 21, 2017, 07:14:10 am
Thanks fried.

68kgs 66kgs :)

M-
T-Quick session at Rubicon working stamina. 30min run. 24/16kg kettlebells.
W-Max hangs reps of 10s +40kg on 19mm and one max effort of 5s 8s +32kgs on 14mm. Happy that this is improving. STG is to do my routine with +40kgs on each.
T-Works. All but one yellow in 1hr10 55min then got shown how to do the last one by some friendly guys. Turned out doing it the right way rather than the wrong way was key. 30m run.
F-24/16kg kettlebell routine.
S-Decent session at Rubicon in the rain. Still lacking in something to finish the 7B traverse but it's good fun working it. Traverses and Kudos were totally dry unlike the rest of the peak. A friendly trio up from MK were there but where the hell was everyone else!?
S-Monrning family trackside session. Just us, then one or two others, then everyone. Never seen it so busy. Good effort to the guy trying Play Hard in August connies! Left with tired arms. 30m run.


tomtom

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#4 Re: UKB Power Club 390 14th - 20th August
August 21, 2017, 08:15:55 am
Still got the cold from last week - but its slooooowly shifting...

M: Depot. Felt like crap - but went and sweated some cold out for an hour..

Th: Depot again - this time with TTjnr. Felt better - managed to flash a couple of the new purples (v5-7's), and sucessfully work a few more. Its always a bit random what you can do with a crawling baby... he seemed to find it all quite amusing - especially when his dad fell off... (always got a laugh)

Sa: Had a pass out! Aimed to try somewhere new from the new NWB guide.. but.... the cat managed to come home with an abscess (like half a golf ball on his leg) - managed to get a 9am vets appointment - then an ambulance blocked all the cars in the road in (cul de sac) so I had to re-arrange - and then all of a sudden it was 11 and my pass was useless. It was raining anyway...

Su: Was given a morning compensatory pass... went to Helsby int' woods. Amazingly climbed really well - felt quite pleased with myself given the lay off/poor training/climbing over the last few weeks... still snuffling...

Coops_13

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#5 Re: UKB Power Club 390 14th - 20th August
August 21, 2017, 08:49:53 am
STG: Climb indoors in the week as much as possible
MTG: 7C

M:
T:
W: Arch. Good session. Progress on the board. 1-4-7 big rungs. Touched 7 on both arms trying 1-4-7 on mid rungs! Finished climbing some nice(?!?) problems
T:
F:
S: Anston Stones to try Bullet 7C. Warmed up, got on it. Felt heavy and unpsyched. Sacked it in :( Did Beretta Extension 7B which was so long for my lack of fitnes (20 - 25 moves!) Fell off the very end once before getting it. So pumped... Flashed Saruman 7A using beta from a mate, definitely not 7A so probably used holds that weren't in :( Ended up at a beer festival in Birmingham  :beer2:
S: Solo trip to Churnet. A bit damp and unpsyched so didn't really do anything. Headed home early...

Lost psyche for project. Think I need to focus on training and getting stronger indoors before I can make 7C a reality...

abarro81

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#6 Re: UKB Power Club 390 14th - 20th August
August 21, 2017, 09:15:22 am
Touched 7 on both arms trying 1-4-7 on mid rungs!

^ This suggests that this

Think I need to focus on training and getting stronger indoors before I can make 7C a reality...

is probably not the case

csl

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#7 Re: UKB Power Club 390 14th - 20th August
August 21, 2017, 09:27:19 am
Touched 7 on both arms trying 1-4-7 on mid rungs!

^ This suggests that this

Think I need to focus on training and getting stronger indoors before I can make 7C a reality...

is probably not the case

I was about to say the same...

Coops_13

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#8 Re: UKB Power Club 390 14th - 20th August
August 21, 2017, 09:35:07 am
Touched 7 on both arms trying 1-4-7 on mid rungs!

^ This suggests that this

Think I need to focus on training and getting stronger indoors before I can make 7C a reality...

is probably not the case

I was about to say the same...
I mean probably trying to bring my other aspects of climbing in line with my campussing. Finger strength etc.

36chambers

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#9 Re: UKB Power Club 390 14th - 20th August
August 21, 2017, 09:39:13 am
STG: stronger fingers.

M:
T: Indoors. 30 board. New tiny crimps, spent the session trying to link the smallest ones together. Pretty intense and in hindsight, I'm surprised my fingers were okay afterwards.
W:
T: Anstons, mileage. Sacked off Ebola as even lightly holding the pocket with a dropped pinky felt bad.
F:
S: Ilkley. Quick hit to check out the problems on the back of the calf. Keen to return for the highballs.
S: Longridge. A handful of sevens including Big Marine 7A+ and flashing Grow Wings sitter 7B. The harder things I wanted to try were seeping.

Very much looking forward to the colder days now. Lots of leaves falling on the walk to work this morning :)

36chambers

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Touched 7 on both arms trying 1-4-7 on mid rungs!

^ This suggests that this

Think I need to focus on training and getting stronger indoors before I can make 7C a reality...

is probably not the case

I was about to say the same...
I mean probably trying to bring my other aspects of climbing in line with my campussing. Finger strength etc.
Then why are you campusing? :P

andy_e

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Because it feels so good...

yetix

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had the flu and been bed bound for much of the week

67.9kg

M-warm up and fingerboarding session
T-dead to the world
W-dead to the world
T-dead to the world
F-felt a little better, tried a light session and some fingerboarding but felt weak (still ill)
S-conditioning and running - was still a little ill
S-double session at the depot, ticked most of the new purples off and worked on the 30 board a little

hopefully this will be a better week  :smirk:

Coops_13

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Then why are you campusing? :P
This climbing thing we do is meant to be fun isn't it?!? :-\

Duma

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Goals:
Fix shoulder
More 8A's
8b

Body Audit: Left shoulderlittle better than last week, but have only done easy stuff outdoors this week.
Sleep: OK.
70kg.

M: Nothing, shoulder rehab.
T: Took daughter to Dartmoor - Honeybag Tor - she had a great time. Lovely day, only spotting and bimbling for me though.
W: Dartmoor - Combeshaed Tor - another good day with Chloe enjoying herself on easier stuff, lot of bracken bashing though. Dip in the stream after too.
T: Cornwall, bit of swimming. Shoulder rehab.
F: Cornwall, bit more swimming, shoulder rehab.
S: Stopped on Dartmoor again on the way home - Tunhill - lovely spot I'd not been to before. Mostly easy stuff and spotting Chloe, but did Eden Project 6C while there which is ace.
S: Nothing, forgot shoulder rehab.

Nice week but shoulder still feeling tweaky, bored now. At least back to 70kg.

Bradders

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STG - finish off Ebola at Anston and stick to training plan
MTG - week off in October and two weeks off before Christmas. Hoping to finish off a couple of grit projects, notably Jason's Roof at Crookrise, Tourniquet at Kentmere and Low Rider at Stanage
LTG - too many projects to list here

Second planned week of trying hard on the training before a rest week. Hopefully get up to Northumberland for the bank holiday weekend and get back on Preparation H.

M - 5x 1r 10 second max hangs adding 16kg on the 10mm B2K rungs, planks between reps
T - rest
W - Woodhouse Scar for second session on Ian's Roof. Linked through to having my hand on the RH sidepull used to finish but just couldn't fight through it. Had a couple more good goes but powered out. Man this thing is hard for 7C. Then went home and repeated Monday's max hangs session on the hangboard. Planks felt a lot harder having climbed beforehand.
T - Depot volume session. Did lots of purples.
F - rest
S - big day out to Ingleby Incline. Managed Sleepy Hollow Sit which is an amazing boulder problem; genuinely world class yet rarely sees any attention. Also did Big Brown Bear.
S - walk around Dunham Massey Hall. Was going to do another hangboard session but was feeling tired from Saturday so did it Monday morning instead.

Good week. Lots of hangboard and still plenty of climbing.

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I don't really have any specific goals but visited nesscliffe at the weekend to climb routes for the first time there. An amazing place so I'll definitely try a go there more in cooler temps. The main wall there is  :jaw:

Tue- fingerboard and bouldering up to v5

Wed -

Thurs- fingerboard max hangs / sneaky board session power endurance

Fri-

Sat / sun - nesscliffe cleaned and tr'd Gathering Sun, tried to lead it and fell off the last move. The last move is so reach dependent I had to manafacture a font 7a+ way of doing it off smaller lower holds - definitely one for those of above average stature! Felt French 7b to there with a boldish start.

Does anyone know how that main wall fares over winter? Is it wet all the time and does nesscliffe have a 'season' that isn't humid... / minging conditions?



shark

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11.5-7

M.

T. Checked out the Bowderstone in the pouring rain. Lots quite dry but it would have been grim - landing soaking. PM Cleared up and had a hike up and down Blencathra by the spectacular Sharp Edge.

W. Badger Rock with Karl and Tom. Warmed up then set to work on the sit start to Low Arete 6C+ which I was pleased to get then d headed back to Sheffield.

T.

F.

S. Quested out on my own. Rainy but X was dry and conditions mint at least to begin with. A few goes off the ladder on JR and managed to link from the rail to the end. Felt good. Paced myself. Best go from ground to slot under roof. At end tried getting pinch with front 3 rather than 2 and can do that now so will try that next time. Disappointed not to get it.

S. Anston Stones. Went to Apprentice Wall for first time. Warmed up and we did Apprentice Wall 6C which deserved its three stars. Got to work on Apprentice Arete 7A+ which had a powerful start. Ben got it first with a whack sequence which gave me the impetus to do virtually straight after. Pretty chuffed to pull off a genuinely powerful move on small holds.

Keen to finish JR off but also recognise that I need to start training again now I'm back in run up to the Autumn (though it feels like Autumn now). Weighed in at 11stone 7lbs when I got back on Weds but already lost a couple of pounds.


lagerstarfish

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M - Works with the ubiquitous John Horscroft and similarly aged punters doing 5s. Had fun - initial toe pain went away after 40 mins gentle warming up
Tue - cut our hedges and those of next door then couple of hours chainsaw action cutting ash and holly for next year's fires
W - forearms hurt from overgripping chainsaw - visited cheap gym and joined
Th - gym before work - pull ups, dips, dumbell complexes mixed with inclined treadmill to allow useless ankle to get me out of breath
got weighed/measured - 42 inches waist at navel measurement plus this

F - nowt - out for dinner with long suffering wife, rather nice halibut, scallops etc plus lots of beer and gin
Sa - Works on my own - bad toe joint pain - should have used drugs
Su -  head injury due to sneezing in a confined space - lots of blood and headache - wiped it up and opened my account with the trap bar and the Olympic weights at cheap gym - ate lots at lunch with Andy Harris and barbecue tea with Big Ed - met some chap called Mick who was at the party at Joe Picalli's house when Joe was in Thailand early 90s - the one which lasted for days/weeks/months and the furniture was burned - he said Joe was very polite in telling them all to leave (having cut short his trip to come back and save his house)
« Last Edit: August 21, 2017, 11:35:41 pm by lagerstarfish »

Duma

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M - Works with the ubiquitous John Horscroft and similarly aged punters doing 5s. Had fun - initial toe pain went away after 40 mins gentle warming up
Tue - cut our hedges and those of next door then couple of hours chainsaw action cutting ash and holly for next year's fires
W - forearms hurt from overgripping chainsaw - visited cheap gym and joined
Th - gym before work - pull ups, dips, dumbell complexes mixed with inclined treadmill to allow useless ankle to get me out of breath
got weighed/measured - 42 inches waist at navel measurement plus this

F - nowt - out for dinner with long suffering wife, rather nice halibut, scallops etc plus lots of beer and gin
Sa - Works on my own - bad toe joint pain - should have used drugs
Su -  head injury due to sneezing in a confined space - lots of blood and headache - wiped it up and opened my account with the trap bar and the Olympic weights at cheap gym - ate lots at lunch with Andy Harris and barbecue tea with Big Ed - met some chap called Mick who was at the party at Joe Picalli's house when Joe was in Thailand early 90s - the one which lasted for days/weeks/months and the furniture was burned - he said Joe was very polite in telling them all to leave (having cut short his trip to come back and save his house)

Classic PC entry.

shark

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met some chap called Mick who was at the party at Joe Picalli's house when Joe was in Thailand early 90s - the one which lasted for days/weeks/months and the furniture was burned - he said Joe was very polite in telling them all to leave (having cut short his trip to come back and save his house)

I heard the story was that someone told Joe in Thailand that "the Bear" was living in his house and Joe got the next flight home.

I'm not sure who "the Bear" was.

Duma

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I've always thought of Lagers as a bit of a bear

lagerstarfish

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I'm not sure who "the Bear" was.

you obviously didn't spend enough time in The Broadfield

the bloke I was talking to said he's had recent contact with The Bear

andy popp

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he said Joe was very polite

A tell tale sign that this whole story is obviously a tissue of lies.

shark

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he said Joe was very polite

A tell tale sign that this whole story is obviously a tissue of lies.

Either they were too stoned or Joe was speaking in his first language - Latin

 

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