UKBouldering.com

UKB Power Club 389 7th - 14th August (Read 14773 times)

tomtom

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 20282
  • Karma: +641/-11
UKB Power Club 389 7th - 14th August
August 14, 2017, 08:28:32 am
Nothing.

Absolutely nothing. Had a heavy cold all week that has now shifted to my sinuses - lots of snot banging headaches - no climbing for me.

nai

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4008
  • Karma: +206/-1
  • In my dreams
#1 Re: UKB Power Club 389 7th - 14th August
August 14, 2017, 09:26:15 am
unfortunate tt

without going into too much boring detail, been ticking over until I go on holiday - Foundry with kids, couple of short board sessions and an evening of easy bolt clipping.  I'll start posting again in September.

Power Club rocks this week.

yetix

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 610
  • Karma: +33/-0
#2 Re: UKB Power Club 389 7th - 14th August
August 14, 2017, 10:22:08 am
67kg

STG: finger/wrist back to 100%
MTG: Any Hole is a Goal, Brad Pit, and la Fuente (stand)
LTG: 7c+

M:
T: Repeaters - 4 finger half crimp, 3 finger open, pinch blocks x6  sets
W:
T: Repeaters - 4 finger half crimp, 3 finger open, pinch blocks x6  sets
F:
S: Repeaters - 4 finger half crimp, 3 finger open, pinch blocks x6  sets and far to much conditioning
S: running

Wood FT

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2951
  • Karma: +162/-8
#3 Re: UKB Power Club 389 7th - 14th August
August 14, 2017, 10:52:15 am
 Get well soon Tom

STG: Leather Whip Mick
MTG: Cider Soak 8a / Patpence 8a+
LTG: 8b

Mon - Ansteys + LQP, belayed a mate and then had a few goes on Once a Dogger in the wind and rain without success, not very Majorca, scared by seal again.
Tue -
Wed - Torbryan, off the top of Threadbare LH 7b+ twice, worked new and higher percentage beta for last crux, left for another time. Afternoon at Ansteys, 2 goes on Cider Soak. I still can't manage the move past bolt 1 and it's doing my head in. Dogged to the top and whilst thrutching through the top heel toe moves managed to orientate the penultimate QuickDraw in such a way that it unclipped itself from the tape, I think it actually came off while weighting the chains but very unnerving to see the rope unclipped (you'd be lucky not to hit the deck if you fell from the slappy last moves). I'll be using two draws or a screwgate next time
Thu -
Fri -
Sat - Portland, warmed up at Battleship back cliff, quick attempt at Zinc Oxide Mountain 7b+ failing when I couldn't match the crimp rail below the crux crack (worked out you don't need to). Moved on to Wallsend South to meet friends, very impressive crag, os attempt at Halfway To Heaven 7b ended far from halfway at bolt one greasing off flat holds, armpit rope burn for my troubles, enjoyable redpoint after a dogging to the top. Finished on some nails 6b+ Jewel of the Isle.
Sun - Lulworth, Stair Hole DWS. Flashed Laws Traverse 6b+ and repeated Animal Magnetism 7a+. Had a good go on Gates of Greyskull 7b+ getting to the top roll over move, 2nd go ripped a large flapper, taped up and had a 3rd go but was far to tentative and then hit the sea bed so it was good to have not gone any higher

Feeling very battered from a very fun weekend. Need to have a more pragmatic approach to the first moves of Cider Soak.

36chambers

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1678
  • Karma: +154/-4
#4 Re: UKB Power Club 389 7th - 14th August
August 14, 2017, 11:36:21 am
hope you feel better soon TT

STG: board projects, stronger fingers
MTG: stronger fingers
LTG: stronger fingers

M:
T: Indoors. 30 board. It has recently been reset and it's much better. The strongest and best board session I've had in a long time (maybe the board is now soft). Barely slept the night before from work stress, maybe that's the key to climbing well. Loads and loads of new projects.
W:
T: Cliff. May have found a potential FA. Also climbed Bruno's Roof (AKA Stu's Roof into DWR LH) and fell off the last move of Stu's LH into DWR LH on the only burn I had on it. 
F:
S: Anstons. 3 hour hit. Think there were a few UKBers around :wave: Sussed some non-long beta for Ebola and managed all the moves, no time for RPs.
S: MTB around Dalby forest.

Good week, psyche is high.

tommytwotone

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Southern jessie turned Almscliff devotee
  • Posts: 3633
  • Karma: +199/-3
#5 Re: UKB Power Club 389 7th - 14th August
August 14, 2017, 11:48:49 am
Goal - Font7anything


M - in Krakow with work, managed to do my 100 reps though
T - 100 reps in hotel then big night out...brewery, beers, then shots, then stagger back to room
W - broken all day, still did my 100 reps on return to hotel though
T - flight back, 100 reps before bed
F - no gym on lunch, 100 reps at home instead
S - pottering day at home inc. 100 reps
S - VW Festival at Harewood House, walked miles in sunshine, great day. Then bloody forgot to do my 100 reps before bed!


Gutted. That was 52 days in a row, including days when I was too tired, stressed or hungover to bother and I still did it. All that happened last night was that I was a bit busy and tired, and forgot. There goes my aspirations of 100 days!


Oh well.


36chambers

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1678
  • Karma: +154/-4
#6 Re: UKB Power Club 389 7th - 14th August
August 14, 2017, 12:01:08 pm
Gutted. That was 52 days in a row, including days when I was too tired, stressed or hungover to bother and I still did it. All that happened last night was that I was a bit busy and tired, and forgot. There goes my aspirations of 100 days!

Oh well.

Just do 200 today and carry on as usual? Committing during the tired and lazy days is the important part :strongbench:

csl

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 786
  • Karma: +93/-2
#7 Re: UKB Power Club 389 7th - 14th August
August 14, 2017, 12:01:35 pm
STG - end of August

- stick to board sessions for whole month
- 7B - failed to do one in 5 days in Wales, im a punter
- Do 2 board projects. 0/2

MTG - end of Year

- something off the lifetime list

Monday

Drove to Wales, got the new guide.

- Failed on Minimum 7A, wasted a lot of skin on this
- Did most of the moves on Bus Stop 7B+, flailed on the topout

Tuesday

Meant to be a rest day, ended up at Caseg Fraith and then Lily Savage boulders

- Oh Yeah 6C flash
- Paul o Grady 6C+ second go
- Tried but failed on Paul o Grady sds 7B

Wednesday

Warmed up at Cromlech boulders, did the topout of Bus Stop.

- had a few attempts on Bus Stop, fell off top out
- Rested for a couple of hours while Footwork did Lizard King, then had a perfect go on Bus Stop, somehow fell off when pretty much stood up on the slab. Screamed a lot, cemented my punter status by doing it again. NNFN

Thursday

Crafnant

- Every body part was screaming, so only managed Rileys Arete 6B+ and failed on a couple of other things

Friday

Parisella's

- did the 6C finish to Left Wall
- Worked on the full left wall traverse, felt hard
- Breifly pulled on to Rock Attrocity

Drove back home

Saturday

nothing

Sunday

nothing

Ultimately a pretty depressing week. I know I'm capable of climbing 7B, but only getting on rock once every few months really shows.

Coops_13

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1206
  • Karma: +75/-0
    • YouTube
#8 Re: UKB Power Club 389 7th - 14th August
August 14, 2017, 12:40:24 pm
STG: Keep climbing
MTG: 7C

Trip to the Lakes for a week:

S: Craig y Longridge. Spent a lot of time and skin doing Fertile Delta 7A+. Almost did Big Marine 7B, fell off top jug 5 times :( Short play on Picnic Sarcastic Sit 7B at Bowderstone in evening
S: Sour Milk Ghyll Boulders. Tried and failed on a 7A+ which was very dirty. Failed miserably at finding Mark's boulder or Lambrini Girl. Where are they?!? Heavy rain forced me to have a short Bowderstone session
M: St. Bees. Failed miserably on The Arete 6C+ in between rain. Ended the day by doing Undercooke 7A which is class
T: Rest day. Spa and cinema
W: Virtual Crag. Did 2 7As, a 7A+ and a 7B! All fairly soft I'm sure... Went to Rake Rigg and got shut down on the 7A there... Shoulthwaite Farm on way back North, did Little People 6C+. An amazing grit/sandstone feature, worth a look.
T: Lad Stones, what a place. Did Hades Lair 7A and then spent a fair while trying Underground Butler 7B to no avail... Then spent a fair while trying Bella's Roof 7A+ to no avail... My mate crushed though.
F: Rest day. Hill walk and cinema
S: Kentmere. Did the Hole SS 7A+ quickly. Midges and rain forced us to a tearoom. Went to Bowderstone and did Picnic Sarcastic sit 7B which was a nice surprise! Failed again at finding Mark's and Lambrini Girl boulders in Sour Milk Ghyll.
S: Gouther Crag. One of the worst and midgiest brackeny walk-ins ever. Horrid. Failed on Khukuri 7B but did Renegade NED 7A which was quite nice. Ran away to Longridge where I spent a couple of hours failing to do as well on Big Marine as I did before.

Good week in the Lakes, nice new venues and glorious weather! Poor quality video to follow...

tommytwotone

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Southern jessie turned Almscliff devotee
  • Posts: 3633
  • Karma: +199/-3
#9 Re: UKB Power Club 389 7th - 14th August
August 14, 2017, 12:59:03 pm
Gutted. That was 52 days in a row, including days when I was too tired, stressed or hungover to bother and I still did it. All that happened last night was that I was a bit busy and tired, and forgot. There goes my aspirations of 100 days!

Oh well.

Just do 200 today and carry on as usual? Committing during the tired and lazy days is the important part :strongbench:


That was my other half's suggestion...but I think not. The challenge was 100 reps (or more) a day, not an average of 100 reps. I could do that but I think it would be the equivalent of taking the tick having dabbed part way up.


I'd originally started this trying to do a month, which I achieved (and only then decided to extend it) so I'm happy.


Seems to have had a positive impact on my physique (which was going south) and more importantly my mood. I'm not going to sweat blowing the streak but just keep to doing it every day - in a way getting into good habits was kind of the point.






« Last Edit: August 14, 2017, 01:22:50 pm by tommytwotone »

cheque

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3389
  • Karma: +522/-2
    • Cheque Pictures
#10 Re: UKB Power Club 389 7th - 14th August
August 14, 2017, 01:03:05 pm
A rest day will probably do you good 3T.

What are you doing 100 reps of anyway?

36chambers

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1678
  • Karma: +154/-4
#11 Re: UKB Power Club 389 7th - 14th August
August 14, 2017, 01:06:16 pm
A rest day will probably do you good 3T.

What are you doing 100 reps of anyway?

bicep curls.                                                                            ;)

Falling Down

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4880
  • Karma: +333/-4
    • bensblogredux
#12 Re: UKB Power Club 389 7th - 14th August
August 14, 2017, 01:06:49 pm
Just start the count again TTT.  Day 1 today  :thumbsup:

Hope you feel better TT

tomtom

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 20282
  • Karma: +641/-11
#13 Re: UKB Power Club 389 7th - 14th August
August 14, 2017, 01:09:26 pm
Just start the count again TTT.  Day 1 today  :thumbsup:

Hope you feel better TT

This. And thanks FD. CSL - I always get spanked when i go to a new rock type/area having not been on it for a while.. takes a few days to get 'calibrated'. Sounds like a pretty good week though!!

tommytwotone

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Southern jessie turned Almscliff devotee
  • Posts: 3633
  • Karma: +199/-3
#14 Re: UKB Power Club 389 7th - 14th August
August 14, 2017, 01:21:54 pm
A rest day will probably do you good 3T.

What are you doing 100 reps of anyway?


As a general rule, bodyweight stuff I could do in-house without any equipment - normally burpees, pushups, squats, leg raises, sit-ups, lunges and so on. On the days I've been at the gym on lunch I've tended to a) make it 200 and b) make the best of having equipment so make it tough (including bicep curls).


I found quickly that the absolute easiest (and therefore my hungover day copout) was just 100 bodyweight squats but normally I'd do 50 pushups / 50 leg raises or similar. One say I just did 200 pushups (not all in one go I hasten to add) having just eaten a Sunday roast, which was hard work.

It's been an interesting experiment in terms of finding that the excuses I used to make for myself as a 39-year old with 2 young kids aren't actually true (tired, no time, too full of dinner, I've already had a beer so no point now...) and I could actually get it done.


Day 1 again today then!

SA Chris

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 29221
  • Karma: +630/-11
    • http://groups.msn.com/ChrisClix
#15 Re: UKB Power Club 389 7th - 14th August
August 14, 2017, 02:14:14 pm
May have found a potential FA

No, a dark horse tm has done it before, just never wrote it up.

Duma

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5751
  • Karma: +226/-4
#16 Re: UKB Power Club 389 7th - 14th August
August 14, 2017, 02:21:52 pm
Csl, sounds sounds like the two harder problems you tried were bus stop and POGSS? If you're aiming for 7B these sound like tough asks, BS is 7B+ and I thought POGSS was easily worth 7B+ too. If you're dropping the top of Bus Stop you can def do 7B.

Sent from my E5823 using Tapatalk


36chambers

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1678
  • Karma: +154/-4
#17 Re: UKB Power Club 389 7th - 14th August
August 14, 2017, 02:35:17 pm
May have found a potential FA

No, a dark horse tm has done it before, just never wrote it up.

I'm hoping that it's obscure, rubbish, eliminate, and hard enough that no one else has ever considered putting a mat (or beer towel) under it. But you are most likely correct :).

andy_e

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 8836
  • Karma: +275/-42
#18 Re: UKB Power Club 389 7th - 14th August
August 14, 2017, 02:40:19 pm
Sorry, Swanny did that years ago after a few pints.

csl

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 786
  • Karma: +93/-2
#19 Re: UKB Power Club 389 7th - 14th August
August 14, 2017, 02:53:15 pm
Csl, sounds sounds like the two harder problems you tried were bus stop and POGSS? If you're aiming for 7B these sound like tough asks, BS is 7B+ and I thought POGSS was easily worth 7B+ too. If you're dropping the top of Bus Stop you can def do 7B.

Sent from my E5823 using Tapatalk

Yep, they were the harder ones I tried, thanks for a the reassurance. To be honest I shouldn't be complaining, it was good to get as close as I did. Just frustrated as I was literally stood up on the slab of Bus Stop, if I hadn't panicked before getting my left foot up i'd have done it!

Nibile

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 7991
  • Karma: +743/-4
  • Part Animal Part Machine
    • TOTOLORE
#20 Re: UKB Power Club 389 7th - 14th August
August 14, 2017, 03:44:18 pm
Power Club

Mon - clean and press 5 x 5 46 kg. One armers! Dumbbel complex 1/1 x 4. Brilliant session, so happy about the one armers, it took me nearly two years to heal my elbows, but now they are just fine. Shoulders are much stronger. Not as sparky as before, but definitely stronger in the bottom part of the pull: now I start completely frontal and hang at full stretch for 1 or 2 seconds before pulling. Very clean up to 3/4, then it all feels a bit sketchy. Chin at the bar but not over it. Very happy though, did it with 2 added kg, and also simulating the reach up with the other arm. Did six or seven singles for each arm. Oh yeah, at 45 yers old and 2,5 kg heavier I am happy.
Tue - was feeling very empty, then two friends came along and a nice session came out. Deadlifts from knees, 5 x 5 128 kg. Good! Paused pull ups. Boxing Tabata. Boiling.
Wed - boxing bag. Boiling.
Thu - Javorek complex (with a twist) x 4 36 kg, brutal. Boxing bag.
Fri - rest.
Sat - pull ups 1,5 cm 5 + 20 kg; 5 + 10 kg, all x 5. Brilliant. Dumbbell complex.
Sun - rest.

AJM

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 454
  • Karma: +24/-0
#21 Re: UKB Power Club 389 7th - 14th August
August 14, 2017, 03:50:52 pm
Wed - ......... afternoon at Ansteys, 2 goes on Cider Soak. I still can't manage the move past bolt 1 and it's doing my head in. Dogged to the top and whilst thrutching through the top heel toe moves managed to orientate the penultimate QuickDraw in such a way that it unclipped itself from the tape, I think it actually came off while weighting the chains but very unnerving to see the rope unclipped (you'd be lucky not to hit the deck if you fell from the slappy last moves). I'll be using two draws or a screwgate next time

I don't know if its any use (perhaps only for the feet - the main trick is some sort of weird body position/knack to avoid the barn door) but the beta I wrote down said:

[starting from both hands on the obvious crimp new the bolt] ..... Pull left foot up onto small blackened edge under the torso then reach up to the sidepull – best got high. Left foot up to left edge of blackened rim edge, right foot swaps to a toe and comes to the left end of the big foothold, keep tight, reach up into gaston. Left foot up one into big hold, twist in and engage core, quick shake on the way through, get good flattie

I think in the autumn I wasn't moving the left foot up when I had the gaston but was going straight through. I had a screw gate on the first bolt as well - initially because I had a lighter belayer and clocked the ledge when barndoor-ing off, but also I think I found it slightly easier to work the moves from a little higher up.

As for the unclip at the top - that would be bad news!!! How did you have the draw rigged, can you remember?

user deactivated

  • Guest
#22 Re: UKB Power Club 389 7th - 14th August
August 14, 2017, 04:57:50 pm
Back at the training this week after a bit of a trad break and family hols.

Tue- board session 30 & 50 degrees (so Tom of recent choss videos, showed me this '7a problem' which I couldn't do the first move of. Ego still sore.

Thurs- Sneaky board sesh light.

Fri- Sneaked out a.m with Nick to Stanage end where he fell of the last move of lowrider and I sweated upwards on chip shop brawl. Nick filmed it for me for posterity or something like that

Edit: Nick sent lowrider Sunday- effort mate!

Sat- climbed great central route on hen cloud. Ha! Hard Severe Offwidth

Experimented a bit with old Russian lens combo here, quite liked it. What do you guys reckon?


Watch this video on Vimeo: . Don’t have the Vimeo app? Get it from the App Store: http://bit.ly/vimeo_ios



Murph

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 653
  • Karma: +66/-0
#23 Re: UKB Power Club 389 7th - 14th August
August 14, 2017, 06:26:44 pm
Get well soon TT
Get back on it TTT
Get in Nibs with the one arms! - time for new motivation videos? I had your fingerboard "grab the f***ing hold" training plan saved but Vimeo updated and wiped everything. More!
Coops - no holiday vid? Good work Sarcastic sir. That's my bucket list.
Dan - cool vid that!

Goals - get back on 7B lime. Stop being so fat. Shoulder prehab.

68kgs  :thumbsdown: :chair: :wall: stop putting so much food in yer gob, Murph.

M-
T-works all bar two yellows in 1hr10. Trying to up the stamina.
W-max hangs. Another fantastic session getting fairly comfortable at +40kgs on 19mm for reps of 10s. Managed 24kg for 10s on 14mm and then just 5s with 32kgs. But it's coming back. 15min rehab run.
T-works all bar one yellows 1hr10 again. Some pinkles.
F-kettlebells
S-20m rehab run. Kettlebells. Rubicon session working three tier test piece. Stamina lacking but it'll come.
S-25m rehab run.

Wood FT

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2951
  • Karma: +162/-8
#24 Re: UKB Power Club 389 7th - 14th August
August 14, 2017, 07:24:57 pm
Wed - ......... afternoon at Ansteys, 2 goes on Cider Soak. I still can't manage the move past bolt 1 and it's doing my head in. Dogged to the top and whilst thrutching through the top heel toe moves managed to orientate the penultimate QuickDraw in such a way that it unclipped itself from the tape, I think it actually came off while weighting the chains but very unnerving to see the rope unclipped (you'd be lucky not to hit the deck if you fell from the slappy last moves). I'll be using two draws or a screwgate next time

I don't know if its any use (perhaps only for the feet - the main trick is some sort of weird body position/knack to avoid the barn door) but the beta I wrote down said:

[starting from both hands on the obvious crimp new the bolt] ..... Pull left foot up onto small blackened edge under the torso then reach up to the sidepull – best got high. Left foot up to left edge of blackened rim edge, right foot swaps to a toe and comes to the left end of the big foothold, keep tight, reach up into gaston. Left foot up one into big hold, twist in and engage core, quick shake on the way through, get good flattie

I think in the autumn I wasn't moving the left foot up when I had the gaston but was going straight through. I had a screw gate on the first bolt as well - initially because I had a lighter belayer and clocked the ledge when barndoor-ing off, but also I think I found it slightly easier to work the moves from a little higher up.

As for the unclip at the top - that would be bad news!!! How did you have the draw rigged, can you remember?

Cheers for beta, will give it a go. I briefly tried an Egyptian with a high left foot as described by someone on Poppy but they are super streng.

Re: last quickdraw - it was just a normal clip through a glue in, I think the bolt end crab must have been rotated already then by dragging my right leg I must have manipulated the tape over itself. Spooky.
« Last Edit: August 14, 2017, 07:30:37 pm by Wood FT »

AJM

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 454
  • Karma: +24/-0
#25 Re: UKB Power Club 389 7th - 14th August
August 14, 2017, 07:44:06 pm
Cheers for beta, will give it a go. I briefly tried an Egyptian with a high left foot as described by someone on Poppy but they are super streng.

Re: last quickdraw - it was just a normal clip through a glue in, I think the bolt end crab must have been rotated already then by dragging my right leg I must have manipulated the tape over itself. Spooky.

Spooky indeed!

Yeah high left foot I saw a few people do. I could never get enough "in" from it - nice oppositional on the sidepull but nothing to keep me close to the wall.

TobyD

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3827
  • Karma: +88/-3
  • Job offers gratefully accepted
#26 Re: UKB Power Club 389 7th - 14th August
August 14, 2017, 11:55:17 pm
M road run between 6-7km, slow and pretty tired from work
T wave session, fun amde progress on the RH black and yellow, managed a move i hadn't done before, and 1 or 2 level twos not previously done
W 4 x 10min easy aerocap on routes up to 6b, 5 minute rests 
T Moat buttress tried moaterhead, 3 rp attempts falling off last move of top crux every time
F bike ride c.60km
S walked to dripping cornice, went to rubicon ticked a new 7a and 6c, and tried a couple of other things (all routes); then foundry for a few wave problems and shoulder stability experimentation on bar
S moat buttress rp'd moaterhead first go of the day, first decent new tick in over a year, looks like time to knuckle down properly. tried king arthritis afterwards but it got a bit warm and humid for me, more relevantly felt pretty tired

measles23

Offline
  • ***
  • stalker
  • Posts: 264
  • Karma: +45/-1
#27 Re: UKB Power Club 389 7th - 14th August
August 15, 2017, 12:25:10 am
Sacked off for a few weeks due to unstable middle finger mcp joint thats got progressively worse over the year..

Usual weekly wall sessions pottering up to V6/7

Usual weekly gym sessions - this week managed to lift a lump of metal weighing 230 kg :)

Wood FT

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2951
  • Karma: +162/-8
#28 Re: UKB Power Club 389 7th - 14th August
August 15, 2017, 07:36:10 am
M road run between 6-7km, slow and pretty tired from work
T wave session, fun amde progress on the RH black and yellow, managed a move i hadn't done before, and 1 or 2 level twos not previously done
W 4 x 10min easy aerocap on routes up to 6b, 5 minute rests 
T Moat buttress tried moaterhead, 3 rp attempts falling off last move of top crux every time
F bike ride c.60km
S walked to dripping cornice, went to rubicon ticked a new 7a and 6c, and tried a couple of other things (all routes); then foundry for a few wave problems and shoulder stability experimentation on bar
S moat buttress rp'd moaterhead first go of the day, first decent new tick in over a year, looks like time to knuckle down properly. tried king arthritis afterwards but it got a bit warm and humid for me, more relevantly felt pretty tired

Well done Toby!

tomtom

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 20282
  • Karma: +641/-11
#29 Re: UKB Power Club 389 7th - 14th August
August 15, 2017, 09:16:22 am
Usual weekly gym sessions - this week managed to lift a lump of metal weighing 230 kg :)

[emoji41][emoji1320]

Nibile

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 7991
  • Karma: +743/-4
  • Part Animal Part Machine
    • TOTOLORE
#30 Re: UKB Power Club 389 7th - 14th August
August 15, 2017, 10:12:51 am
Get in Nibs with the one arms! - time for new motivation videos?
Cheers Murph! This is a little clip of the last set, still powerful in the bottom part but couldn't lock out deep. Trying to stay as frontal as possible. I'll try to upload the fingerboarding program again.

Muenchener

Offline
  • *****
  • Trusted Users
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2692
  • Karma: +117/-0
#31 Re: UKB Power Club 389 7th - 14th August
August 15, 2017, 10:57:48 am
S went to rubicon ticked a new 7a and 6c

I was one of the team getting in your way on the 7a on Rubicon. Pleased to meet you, sort of.  :wavecry:

Sasquatch

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1984
  • Karma: +153/-1
  • www.akclimber.com
    • AkClimber
#32 Re: UKB Power Club 389 7th - 14th August
August 15, 2017, 08:42:21 pm
Gutted. That was 52 days in a row, including days when I was too tired, stressed or hungover to bother and I still did it. All that happened last night was that I was a bit busy and tired, and forgot. There goes my aspirations of 100 days!

Oh well.

Just do 200 today and carry on as usual? Committing during the tired and lazy days is the important part :strongbench:

That was my other half's suggestion...but I think not. The challenge was 100 reps (or more) a day, not an average of 100 reps. I could do that but I think it would be the equivalent of taking the tick having dabbed part way up.


I'd originally started this trying to do a month, which I achieved (and only then decided to extend it) so I'm happy.


Seems to have had a positive impact on my physique (which was going south) and more importantly my mood. I'm not going to sweat blowing the streak but just keep to doing it every day - in a way getting into good habits was kind of the point.
So start over and try again :) 

Sasquatch

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1984
  • Karma: +153/-1
  • www.akclimber.com
    • AkClimber
#33 Re: UKB Power Club 389 7th - 14th August
August 15, 2017, 08:52:46 pm
Pretty good week - back into training mode

M- FB Wide grip max hangs, routes at wall-os 9 routes up to 7b+. 
T- rest
W- Outside - short session, but managed to climb 6 new problems, and do a new 7C FA. Also found 6 new project lines.  (I cleaned most of those yesterday in the rain)
T-rest
F-FB Wide grip max hangs (finally felt strong on the hangs:) ) , Routes os 11 routes up to 7b
S- Bike/Core
S-Bike/Core

School starts next week so I should get into a better weekly rhythm for both training and climbing.   

TobyD

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3827
  • Karma: +88/-3
  • Job offers gratefully accepted
#34 Re: UKB Power Club 389 7th - 14th August
August 15, 2017, 11:43:51 pm
M road run between 6-7km, slow and pretty tired from work
T wave session, fun amde progress on the RH black and yellow, managed a move i hadn't done before, and 1 or 2 level twos not previously done
W 4 x 10min easy aerocap on routes up to 6b, 5 minute rests 
T Moat buttress tried moaterhead, 3 rp attempts falling off last move of top crux every time
F bike ride c.60km
S walked to dripping cornice, went to rubicon ticked a new 7a and 6c, and tried a couple of other things (all routes); then foundry for a few wave problems and shoulder stability experimentation on bar
S moat buttress rp'd moaterhead first go of the day, first decent new tick in over a year, looks like time to knuckle down properly. tried king arthritis afterwards but it got a bit warm and humid for me, more relevantly felt pretty tired

Well done Toby!

cheers Guy! I'm starting to believe I'm capable of getting back to 8 something by the end of the year.  2 months ago ish I failed to TR the warm up 6c at Moat, left and went to the Foundry (though it was nice to be at the crag anyway, and watch others) I've now realised that its probably been a decade since I haven't climbed at least 8a every year, but I don't have any more leave left ... I need a soft 8a I haven't done which doesn't seep... suggestions please!
BTW a fine effort on TCS, (not soft!) I'd be really psyched to get on this again with you, and we can fall off our respective bugbear moves repeatedly... I think i my have ha a similar draw unclipping issue on this once as well.

Bradders

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2785
  • Karma: +135/-3
#35 Re: UKB Power Club 389 7th - 14th August
August 16, 2017, 08:51:36 am
First time posting in the power club, good to see the psych going round so thought I'd get involved. Plus I'm a believer in the idea of publicising your goals to help make you more accountable to them. Anywho, going to start off aggregating the last three weeks, sorry for the long post!

STG - finish off Ebola at Anston and stick to training plan
MTG - week off in October and two weeks off before Christmas. Hoping to finish off a couple of grit projects, notably Jason's Roof at Crookrise, Tourniquet at Kentmere and Low Rider at Stanage
LTG - too many projects to list here

WC 24th July - starting training again after a short trip to Ireland, having not done anything for a long while except climb outside.
M - yoga in the morning, Leeds Depot later, lots of volume trying to build a bit of session fitness focusing on problems through roofs
T - knackered from work but quick session of 5/5 repeaters on the 10mm B2K rungs
W - rest
T - yoga in the morning then a bit of a project session at Leeds Depot. Mainly worked a yellow coming through the cave and ticked in two halves
F - gym, volume weights doing chest, squats and deadlift
S - had a BBQ
S - Leeds Wall for a couple of hours doing easy routes

WC 31st July - second week of 'base building'
M - afternoon off, went down to Griff's Buttress in Blackwell Dale. Repeated Ovine a few times and tried Lovine to no avail. Frustrating that the crux for me is an awkward hand match.
T - lunchtime gym, repeated last week's routine
W - hangboard, 5/5 repeaters on 10mm B2K rungs with planks between sets
T - Leeds Depot, ticked the yellow through the cave first go, then did lots more roof volume
F - rest
S - Kentmere, varied day, chucked it down as I arrived but everything dried very quickly. Ticked Runs on Weasel 7B quickly, then tried Tourniquet. Seems to revolve around two hard moves, one of which I didn't do. Rest felt steady.
S - Rest

WC 7th August - full training mode, starting off with base strength (particularly fingers) before moving on to power
M - yoga in the morning & Depot 50' board, okay session
T - hangboard, repeaters to warm up, then 3 sets of 5/5 repeaters using front three open removing 9kg weight. Then weighted hangs 5x 1r 10 sec hang adding 14kg. All on 10mm B2K rungs
W - rest
T - repeated Tuesday's hangboard session in the morning, felt good. In the afternoon went to Earl and ticked round a circuit of things I'd not done before.
F - weighted pull ups, leg lifts and front levers at home
S - quick session on Ian's Roof at Woodhousr Woodhouse Scar, as it's 5 mins from my house and away with family later. Tired from precious sessions but sorted my beta.
S - long walk

hstmoore

Offline
  • **
  • player
  • Posts: 100
  • Karma: +14/-0
#36 Re: UKB Power Club 389 7th - 14th August
August 16, 2017, 09:21:58 am

I need a soft 8a I haven't done which doesn't seep... suggestions please!


How about Big Apple at Garage Buttress? Apparently on the soft end of 8a, although that depends if it still has any holds.

fried

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1892
  • Karma: +60/-3
#37 Re: UKB Power Club 389 7th - 14th August
August 17, 2017, 11:59:08 am
2 week check in.

Week 1 - 6 days in Targassonne. Very hard on the skin bouldering on crimpy granite in the sun. Managed my first outdoor 6B on the second day (soft), and couldn't feel my fingers for a couple of days. Chilled in the sun, drunk wine and spent far too long trying and failing on a 6A slab in the campsite. I love Targassonne, not so convinced by granite bouldering though.

Week 2 - 3 days in Font on the way home.

Fri - Damp first ever visit to Rocher Greau...wow. Didn't climb. Went to Buthiers in the afternoon to try Ultrason which was still damp, ticked off a few reds instead and a very bad off-circuit 6A (very soft or wrong line)

Sat - Elephant, feeling very good, did a problem I hadn't tried for ages first go. Then got horribly beaten by the top-out of La Moreau https://bleau.info/elephant/7851.htmlas as usual. This has become a serious mental block. Afternoon, took friends on a walk around Mont Simonet, never climbed here either and did a bit of scoping about.

Sun - J.A Martin, Light blues and a try at Le Prefabrique https://bleau.info/martin/6499.html which needed more creative spotting than I could get out of the missus. Did the bottom.

Climbed a fair bit and came back refreshed and feeling good. Bring on the Autumn.

cheque

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3389
  • Karma: +522/-2
    • Cheque Pictures
#38 Re: UKB Power Club 389 7th - 14th August
August 17, 2017, 12:07:32 pm
Managed my first outdoor 6B on the second day

Effort Fried.  ;D

 

SA Chris

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 29221
  • Karma: +630/-11
    • http://groups.msn.com/ChrisClix
#39 Re: UKB Power Club 389 7th - 14th August
August 17, 2017, 12:43:23 pm
Bit late!

M- Wall session, average
T - nothing
W - Lunchtime run, 8 km, interval in local park. went a wandering. Found a few new problems plus a great arete, did moves but not linked.
T - nothing
F - nothing
S - walk with kids
S - walk with kids did 6 km run in evening with core session on monkey bars at park

fried

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1892
  • Karma: +60/-3
#40 Re: UKB Power Club 389 7th - 14th August
August 17, 2017, 02:18:42 pm
Managed my first outdoor 6B on the second day

Effort Fried.  ;D

I went straight to 6B+

Nibile

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 7991
  • Karma: +743/-4
  • Part Animal Part Machine
    • TOTOLORE
#41 Re: UKB Power Club 389 7th - 14th August
August 17, 2017, 02:44:10 pm
Get in Nibs with the one arms! - time for new motivation videos?
Cheers Murph! I'll try to upload the fingerboarding program again.
I could't find the old video anymore, so after days and days trying to remember all the details and the intricacies of the best fingerboarding program ever conceived, I was finally able to make another explanatory video. I hope it helps.

Murph

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 653
  • Karma: +66/-0
#42 Re: UKB Power Club 389 7th - 14th August
August 17, 2017, 02:55:06 pm
I could't find the old video anymore, so after days and days trying to remember all the details and the intricacies of the best fingerboarding program ever conceived, I was finally able to make another explanatory video. I hope it helps.

Thanks Nibs! Incredible. I'm not worthy. Waddage duly awarded. Above and beyond that one. The lost Vimeo one, you never actually pulled on!

Now I've got to carry the torch and actually get in shape to do one myself. I'm remembering it's all about the shoulders.

Nibile

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 7991
  • Karma: +743/-4
  • Part Animal Part Machine
    • TOTOLORE
#43 Re: UKB Power Club 389 7th - 14th August
August 17, 2017, 03:03:36 pm
 :lol: :lol: :lol:
Murph you're really a crazy mofo, pure UKB at its best!
 :lol: :lol: :lol:

shark

Offline
  • *****
  • Administrator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 8697
  • Karma: +625/-17
  • insect overlord #1
#44 Re: UKB Power Club 389 7th - 14th August
August 17, 2017, 07:58:52 pm
Late entry. Away with family.

M.

T. Bowden Doors with the boys. Warm. Did Transformer Direct 7A. Then had a go with on Dog Eat Dog 7A round the corner which Ive struggled to get far on in the distant past. In warm weather seemed unlikely but managed to unlock a sequence that had me groping for holds at the top. Went round the top and brushed the finishing holds. Tommy then managed to do it. I then had two goes where I slipped off the sandy slopers holds at the top. Tips nearly worn through.

W.

T. Back to Kyloe. Warm again. Worked on Monty Pythons and me and Ben got the stand. Then tried the 7A+ sit and worked out a good sequence and had two goes getting through the start and slapping for the sloper. Tips trashed again.

F.

S.

S. Carrock Fell with the boys and Karl Telfer. Warm and humid. Midges were out. Did McHaffies stand and had a few goes at the 7A+/B sit. Moved to Boardmans Right Hand 6C (scary) and managed it. Back for a few more goes on McHaffies.

Weather was a bit iffy so did well to get out and do what we did though not exactly good conditions for crushing. Definitely had to try hard. Great to get away.




   

Coops_13

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1206
  • Karma: +75/-0
    • YouTube
#45 Re: UKB Power Club 389 7th - 14th August
August 17, 2017, 09:49:10 pm
Coops - no holiday vid? Good work Sarcastic sir. That's my bucket list.
See the Non-quality vid page for a very non-quality vid

lagerstarfish

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Weapon Of Mass
  • Posts: 8810
  • Karma: +812/-10
  • "There's no cure for being a c#nt"
#46 Re: UKB Power Club 389 7th - 14th August
August 19, 2017, 04:00:12 pm
Then got horribly beaten by the top-out of La Moreau https://bleau.info/elephant/7851.htmlas as usual. This has become a serious mental block.

Viddy well, little brother


fried

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1892
  • Karma: +60/-3
#47 Re: UKB Power Club 389 7th - 14th August
August 19, 2017, 04:24:10 pm
It looks so easy from the ground. Even the missus said she could do it. it probably is that easy. I even downclimbed it which is probably harder. I'll try with that music on headphones.

lagerstarfish

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Weapon Of Mass
  • Posts: 8810
  • Karma: +812/-10
  • "There's no cure for being a c#nt"
#48 Re: UKB Power Club 389 7th - 14th August
August 19, 2017, 04:37:22 pm
it does start to feel like you're quite a long way up

fried

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1892
  • Karma: +60/-3
#49 Re: UKB Power Club 389 7th - 14th August
August 19, 2017, 05:21:25 pm
I really need some serious barracking

TobyD

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3827
  • Karma: +88/-3
  • Job offers gratefully accepted
#50 Re: UKB Power Club 389 7th - 14th August
August 19, 2017, 11:18:26 pm

I need a soft 8a I haven't done which doesn't seep... suggestions please!


How about Big Apple at Garage Buttress? Apparently on the soft end of 8a, although that depends if it still has any holds.

nice one, this is exactly what I'd pretty much decided on. The Sissy is possibly the only other candidate I can think of

TobyD

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3827
  • Karma: +88/-3
  • Job offers gratefully accepted
#51 Re: UKB Power Club 389 7th - 14th August
August 19, 2017, 11:22:45 pm
S went to rubicon ticked a new 7a and 6c

I was one of the team getting in your way on the 7a on Rubicon. Pleased to meet you, sort of.  :wavecry:

Hello! Pleasure to meet you, I hope you had a good day. funny how many regular posters on here I have no idea who they are. I suppose because its UKb I tend to assume that everyone present lives in Sheffield, even though I am fully aware loads don't

Wood FT

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2951
  • Karma: +162/-8
#52 Re: UKB Power Club 389 7th - 14th August
August 20, 2017, 12:07:32 am

I need a soft 8a I haven't done which doesn't seep... suggestions please!


How about Big Apple at Garage Buttress? Apparently on the soft end of 8a, although that depends if it still has any holds.

nice one, this is exactly what I'd pretty much decided on. The Sissy is possibly the only other candidate I can think of

The Sissy soft?!

user deactivated

  • Guest
#53 Re: UKB Power Club 389 7th - 14th August
August 20, 2017, 08:25:17 am

I need a soft 8a I haven't done which doesn't seep... suggestions please!


How about Big Apple at Garage Buttress? Apparently on the soft end of 8a, although that depends if it still has any holds.

nice one, this is exactly what I'd pretty much decided on. The Sissy is possibly the only other candidate I can think of

The Sissy soft?!

Easier with a weird right heel for the match

Fiend

Offline
  • *
  • _
  • forum hero
  • Abominable sex magick practitioner and climbing heathen
  • Posts: 13413
  • Karma: +676/-67
  • Whut
#54 Re: UKB Power Club 389 7th - 14th August
August 21, 2017, 09:23:49 am

Week 2 - 3 days in Font on the way home.

Fri - Damp first ever visit to Rocher Greau...wow. Didn't climb. Went to Buthiers in the afternoon

Sat - Elephant,

Fried! I was in Rocher Patola on Friday and Rocher Fin on Saturday (escaping rain in Berdorf), I wish I'd remembered you being a Bleausard nouveau, I would have got in touch to see if you fancied meeting up. We were mostly pottering but it reminded me that Font is really rather good  ;D

Duma

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5751
  • Karma: +226/-4
#55 Re: UKB Power Club 389 7th - 14th August
August 21, 2017, 10:08:28 am
Goals:
Fix shoulder
More 8A's
8b

Body Audit: Left shoulder, hmmm, def wasn't that keen on a harder week.
Sleep: OK.
71kg. :spank:

M: Nothing, shoulder rehab.
T: TCA, play on new mothership problems from last weeks comp finals feeleing pretty decent, shoulder rehab.
W: Nothing, shoulder rehab - feeling bit sore from previous day.
T: TCA, more time on the finals problems and some from the comp circuit - shoulder def sore, sacked it off early. Nothing, shoulder rehab.
F: Nothing, shoulder rehab.
S: Nothing, shoulder rehab.
S: TCA with daughter am, just easy stuff for me. Forgot shoulder rehab.

Annoyed that shoulder flared up , need to ease back into it more slowly I guess.

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal