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Definitions: edge sizes (Read 884 times)

Danny

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Definitions: edge sizes
August 10, 2017, 03:00:22 pm
*Warning: trivial and specific training related question*

Given the complete lack of a decent wall in my locality (and lack of funds/time to build a woodie) I've started taking fingerboarding a bit more seriously. I've recently switched from repeaters to max hangs and, since my edges are homemade, I started wondering about what constitutes a 20 mm edge. At the mo I have ~25 mm and ~14 mm that I'm hanging from, but the exact depth depends on whether you measure across the flat area of the edge, or the entire width including any rounding.

So is there a convention? Do you even care? Etc.

petejh

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#1 Re: Definitions: edge sizes
August 10, 2017, 03:46:32 pm
Without having my BM2000 and tape measure to hand.. iirc I consider the bottom middle rung to be 20mm, and the two deep slots with an AA battery 'size-reducer'TM insert to also be 20mm. Full width including any rounding.

One 20mm edge isn't the same as the next - I find the battery-reduced slots harder to hang than the bottom middle.

Nibile

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#2 Re: Definitions: edge sizes
August 10, 2017, 03:54:26 pm
I personally count the rounding in, because obviously it gets surface contact with the skin.
So if I want to make a 20 mm edge, I buy a 20 mm thick piece of wood and then I round its edge.

Oldmanmatt

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#3 Re: Definitions: edge sizes
August 10, 2017, 04:12:20 pm
I personally count the rounding in, because obviously it gets surface contact with the skin.
So if I want to make a 20 mm edge, I buy a 20 mm thick piece of wood and then I round its edge.

This.
I always measure from the face. 


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JamieG

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#4 Re: Definitions: edge sizes
August 10, 2017, 05:57:59 pm
Made a rubbish joke, so deleted.

Serious comment. How much rounding on the edges do people do to avoid finger injuries?
« Last Edit: August 10, 2017, 06:03:05 pm by JamieG »

Danny

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#5 Re: Definitions: edge sizes
August 10, 2017, 07:23:29 pm
Good knowledge. Especially the battery trick. I guess rounding til comfortable and no moreómaybe a 3 mm radius. Though if you're half crimping it's maybe redundant, unlike open hangs.

Oldmanmatt

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#6 Definitions: edge sizes
August 10, 2017, 07:55:33 pm
Made a rubbish joke, so deleted.

Serious comment. How much rounding on the edges do people do to avoid finger injuries?

It depends.
If I'm making something with a slight incut, like a Campus rung, I use an R5 router bit (or for a >20mm deep edge) or a 3 for smaller or flats. When I made my 8mm edges, I just took the sharpness off with a rasp and 120 grit.

Sasquatch

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#7 Re: Definitions: edge sizes
August 10, 2017, 08:59:34 pm
I personally count the rounding in, because obviously it gets surface contact with the skin.
So if I want to make a 20 mm edge, I buy a 20 mm thick piece of wood and then I round its edge.

This.
I always measure from the face. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Indeed.  Roundedness is personal choice, but obviously makes a big difference in what you can hang. a much bigger difference open handed, but still impacts half crimp. 

JamieG

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#8 Re: Definitions: edge sizes
August 10, 2017, 09:46:38 pm
I get nervous about finger injuries since I'm not exactly light. :-) Probably more rounded is better for me.

Sidehaas

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#9 Re: Definitions: edge sizes
August 11, 2017, 08:12:54 am
Without having my BM2000 and tape measure to hand.. iirc I consider the bottom middle rung to be 20mm, and the two deep slots with an AA battery 'size-reducer'TM insert to also be 20mm. Full width including any rounding.

One 20mm edge isn't the same as the next - I find the battery-reduced slots harder to hang than the bottom middle.

I thought the big slots with AA batteries were ~ 18mm when I measured them on mine. Definitely (significantly) smaller than the bottom middle rung, and smaller than a lattice rung.  If you use AAA batteries they might be more equivalent (but I haven't tried it)?

petejh

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#10 Re: Definitions: edge sizes
August 14, 2017, 08:32:44 pm
Just had a look.. 18mm on the flat / 20mm including rounding by my measure.

The bottom middle is more like 20mm on the flat / 22 including rounding

dave

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#11 Re: Definitions: edge sizes
August 14, 2017, 08:42:02 pm
So if I want to make a 20 mm edge, I buy a 20 mm thick piece of wood

Bingo.