Author Topic: Definitions: edge sizes  (Read 768 times)

Offline Danny

  • forum abuser
  • ****
  • Posts: 525
  • Karma: +23/-2
Definitions: edge sizes
« on: August 10, 2017, 03:00:22 pm »
*Warning: trivial and specific training related question*

Given the complete lack of a decent wall in my locality (and lack of funds/time to build a woodie) I've started taking fingerboarding a bit more seriously. I've recently switched from repeaters to max hangs and, since my edges are homemade, I started wondering about what constitutes a 20 mm edge. At the mo I have ~25 mm and ~14 mm that I'm hanging from, but the exact depth depends on whether you measure across the flat area of the edge, or the entire width including any rounding.

So is there a convention? Do you even care? Etc.

Offline petejh

  • forum hero
  • *****
  • Posts: 3073
  • Karma: +325/-15
Re: Definitions: edge sizes
« Reply #1 on: August 10, 2017, 03:46:32 pm »
Without having my BM2000 and tape measure to hand.. iirc I consider the bottom middle rung to be 20mm, and the two deep slots with an AA battery 'size-reducer'TM insert to also be 20mm. Full width including any rounding.

One 20mm edge isn't the same as the next - I find the battery-reduced slots harder to hang than the bottom middle.

Online Nibile

  • forum hero
  • *****
  • Posts: 6803
  • Karma: +611/-4
  • Part Animal Part Machine
    • TOTOLORE
Re: Definitions: edge sizes
« Reply #2 on: August 10, 2017, 03:54:26 pm »
I personally count the rounding in, because obviously it gets surface contact with the skin.
So if I want to make a 20 mm edge, I buy a 20 mm thick piece of wood and then I round its edge.
I leave a white and turbid wake; pale waters, paler cheeks, where'er I sail. The envious billows sidelong swell to whelm my track; let them; but first I pass.

the blog http://totolore.blogspot.com/

Offline Oldmanmatt

  • Getting soft in my old age.
  • forum hero
  • *****
  • Posts: 3997
  • Karma: +197/-6
  • 46 and still creaking on... ish.
    • The Boulder Bunker climbing centre
Re: Definitions: edge sizes
« Reply #3 on: August 10, 2017, 04:12:20 pm »
I personally count the rounding in, because obviously it gets surface contact with the skin.
So if I want to make a 20 mm edge, I buy a 20 mm thick piece of wood and then I round its edge.

This.
I always measure from the face. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
All posts either sarcastic, tongue-in-cheek or mildly mocking-in-a-friendly-way unless otherwise stated. I always forget to put those smiley things...

Offline JamieG

  • forum abuser
  • ****
  • Posts: 546
  • Karma: +37/-0
Re: Definitions: edge sizes
« Reply #4 on: August 10, 2017, 05:57:59 pm »
Made a rubbish joke, so deleted.

Serious comment. How much rounding on the edges do people do to avoid finger injuries?
« Last Edit: August 10, 2017, 06:03:05 pm by JamieG »

Offline Danny

  • forum abuser
  • ****
  • Posts: 525
  • Karma: +23/-2
Re: Definitions: edge sizes
« Reply #5 on: August 10, 2017, 07:23:29 pm »
Good knowledge. Especially the battery trick. I guess rounding til comfortable and no moreómaybe a 3 mm radius. Though if you're half crimping it's maybe redundant, unlike open hangs.

Offline Oldmanmatt

  • Getting soft in my old age.
  • forum hero
  • *****
  • Posts: 3997
  • Karma: +197/-6
  • 46 and still creaking on... ish.
    • The Boulder Bunker climbing centre
Definitions: edge sizes
« Reply #6 on: August 10, 2017, 07:55:33 pm »
Made a rubbish joke, so deleted.

Serious comment. How much rounding on the edges do people do to avoid finger injuries?

It depends.
If I'm making something with a slight incut, like a Campus rung, I use an R5 router bit (or for a >20mm deep edge) or a 3 for smaller or flats. When I made my 8mm edges, I just took the sharpness off with a rasp and 120 grit.
All posts either sarcastic, tongue-in-cheek or mildly mocking-in-a-friendly-way unless otherwise stated. I always forget to put those smiley things...

Offline Sasquatch

  • forum hero
  • *****
  • Posts: 1793
  • Karma: +135/-1
  • www.akclimber.com
    • AkClimber
Re: Definitions: edge sizes
« Reply #7 on: August 10, 2017, 08:59:34 pm »
I personally count the rounding in, because obviously it gets surface contact with the skin.
So if I want to make a 20 mm edge, I buy a 20 mm thick piece of wood and then I round its edge.

This.
I always measure from the face. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Indeed.  Roundedness is personal choice, but obviously makes a big difference in what you can hang. a much bigger difference open handed, but still impacts half crimp. 

Offline JamieG

  • forum abuser
  • ****
  • Posts: 546
  • Karma: +37/-0
Re: Definitions: edge sizes
« Reply #8 on: August 10, 2017, 09:46:38 pm »
I get nervous about finger injuries since I'm not exactly light. :-) Probably more rounded is better for me.

Offline Sidehaas

  • menacing presence
  • **
  • Posts: 167
  • Karma: +8/-0
Re: Definitions: edge sizes
« Reply #9 on: August 11, 2017, 08:12:54 am »
Without having my BM2000 and tape measure to hand.. iirc I consider the bottom middle rung to be 20mm, and the two deep slots with an AA battery 'size-reducer'TM insert to also be 20mm. Full width including any rounding.

One 20mm edge isn't the same as the next - I find the battery-reduced slots harder to hang than the bottom middle.

I thought the big slots with AA batteries were ~ 18mm when I measured them on mine. Definitely (significantly) smaller than the bottom middle rung, and smaller than a lattice rung.  If you use AAA batteries they might be more equivalent (but I haven't tried it)?

Offline petejh

  • forum hero
  • *****
  • Posts: 3073
  • Karma: +325/-15
Re: Definitions: edge sizes
« Reply #10 on: August 14, 2017, 08:32:44 pm »
Just had a look.. 18mm on the flat / 20mm including rounding by my measure.

The bottom middle is more like 20mm on the flat / 22 including rounding

Offline dave

  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • *****
  • Posts: 18719
  • Karma: +598/-9
  • Wildcard Megos arch nemesis.
    • Dave's website etc
Re: Definitions: edge sizes
« Reply #11 on: August 14, 2017, 08:42:02 pm »
So if I want to make a 20 mm edge, I buy a 20 mm thick piece of wood

Bingo.
I'm trying to run a high-class bureau-de-change