[csl]

STG - end of August

stick to board sessions for whole month
7B
Do 2 board projects. 0/2

MTG - end of Year

something off the lifetime list

Monday

Arch B1 - Board

Repeated 2 old projects, came close to repeating another
Worked on 3 harder projects, completed an easier version of one. Made progress on the second. Didnt make much progress on the third.

Tuesday

Arch Biscuit

Some moderate stuff on the comp wall.
Got absolutely schooled by the 55º board. I'm so shit on this angle when I can't get heels or toes behind stuff. Coops_13 was looking strong though!

Wednesday

nothing

Thursday

Arch B1

Reasonable session - got close to a Green, made up some new problems on the board and did one.
Also exposed more weaknesses trying some of the slab problems. Perhaps my lack of flexibility holding me back more than I thought.

Friday

nothing

Saturday

nothing

Sunday

nothing

Ok week - lots on the board. I'm totally shit on steep stuff without trickery, might try and work on this in the coming months as its sure to make me stronger. No doubt linked to a weak core.

Off to Wales with Footwork tomorrow, my main goal is to feature on the living_with_wads Instagram, but I'd be pleased if I manage a 7B as well.

[36chambers]

STG: stronger fingers
MTG: stronger fingers
LTG: stronger fingers

M: Indoors. 1 arm max hangs on largest metolius rung. 8 sets. Quick play on 50.
T:
W: Indoors. Reasonable session on the 50, slowly getting back into it. Found out I can easily hold and do pull ups (crimped and open) on the Lopez 6 mm hold.
T:
F: Late afternoon session at Anston Stones. Climbed Alpha 7B, Reservation 7B and Twenty Four Point Nine 7A+. Wanted to get on Ebola, but dropping the pinky on the LH pocket didn't feel good after having to do it on Alpha.
S:
S: Showery in Nidderdale so Anston's again. Climbed Soul Crusher 7C on the quick, ver enjoyable climbing. Had a play on Black Tufa 7B+, but struggled to find a sequence that felt feasible.   

[duncan]

STG/MTG/LTG - tbc


M -
T - Great PE session at the Westway- first indoor 6c flash for 20 years. This was my indoor grade back when I was climbing easy E5s.
W -
T -
F - Day trip to High Tor to meet up with HG. Warmed up on the very good Saga Lout and Endgame, onsighting both with little difficulty. Got on Supersonic again, made it to the victory jug this time, swung onto this and dislocated my left shoulder. Had to jump off, tweaking my ankle. Lowered like a sack of potatoes, just as the pain started in earnest. Derby MRT found us after what felt like the longest and most painful hour (?) of my life. Try not to do this kind of thing as everyone is driving home on Friday afternoon. I got some paracetamol and, somewhat later, Entonox. These very slightly took the edge off the pain. After another indeterminate period a paramedic gave me morphine. This was slightly more effective but needed a couple of top-ups. At some point I was helicoptered to the Northern General, though I was flying with the fairies by then. The shoulder was painlessly relocated and instantly much more comfortable. The ankle was not fractured but, in an incidental finding, is somewhat arthritic. News to me but may explain the ankle swelling and foot pains I've had over the last 10 years.

Derby MRT Facebook page has a good account of events and some photos. The (refreshingly positive) comments contain some quite impressive photos and videos of the helicopter from onlookers.

S - Rested up at shark’s mansion.
S - Made my way back to London.

Shoulder is still quite sore, doesn't want to move, and has the characteristic arm numbness of an axillary nerve palsy. How this will all pan out in the long term I'm not sure. Assuming no other damage and full nerve recovery the outlook is good. I've had a few acute injuries in the last ten years and always recovered pretty well. Dislocation recurrence rates are low in the elderly. I’m trying not to think about the less good scenarios.

Intricately laid plans for the summer need revising.

Sincere thanks to Hugo, Derby MRT, the flyers, Northern General A&E, shark and co., and my long-suffering family.

[jwi]

  Get well soon!

[TobyD]

 Lowered like a sack of potatoes, just as the pain started in earnest. Derby MRT found us after what felt like the longest and most painful hour (?) of my life. Try not to do this kind of thing as everyone is driving home on Friday afternoon.

This sounds like many accidents a big chunk of really, really bad luck. Really hoping you get back to it soon, plenty of closed chain easy movement ... you know better than me anyway! Very glad you didn't suffer worse injury. The most important question is, do you take the tick? were you on the jug and messing about, or barely on and lost it at the limit?Stay strong, I'll give you a bell if I'm in London. T

[Falling Down]

Blimey Duncan - glad you're safe and sound.  Wishing you a speedy recovery.

[cheque]

Sounds like an epic Duncan- I hope it all sorts itself out OK.

[Duma]

Bloody hell Duncan! Hope recovery goes well.

Goals:
Fix shoulder
More 8A's
8b

Body Audit: Left shoulder, improved quite a lot by Friday - the wall this week will be the real test though.
Sleep: OK.
71kg.

M: Nothing, shoulder rehab.(~7.5hrs, 2dk)
T: Nothing, shoulder rehab. (8hrs, 3dk)
W: Nothing.(~7.5hrs, 2dk)
T: Nothing, shoulder rehab. (~7hrs, 1dk)
F: Nothing, drive back from Cornwall (7.5 fucking hours. I hate the M5, and google navigation) (~7.5hrs, 0dk)
S: Drive to Pembroke, First bit of trad in many years - fun wobble up some HVS near No Man's Zawn getting sore calves and trying to remember how to place gear. went and did Perfect Pitch 6a+ DWS after, amazing bit of climbing!(~6.5hrs, 5dk)
S: Pembroke, seconded Ro up Stacked Against then did Cupids Bow, added excitement by not really having any gear big enough to protect it. Finished up as the rain started. Ace weekend. (~7.5hrs, 2dk)

Fun week but no training, but the shoulder seems much better, though whether this is through not climbing rather than recovery will be tested this week. Need to get weight back below 70kg, been creeping up since SA.

[nai]

Bad news duncan, heal well.

STG ?
MTG (end of year)>= 8a RP, 7b OS, E4, 7C
LTG > MTGs
MT - Wales trip as per last week
W Absolutely fucking knackered
Th Absolutely Knackered
F Knackered
S 3x10mins LI AeroCap
S 3x10mins LI AeroCap

Not going to be doing much for a while now, I have 10 days before we go on holiday when there'll be no chance (or tbh, inclination) to climb for 2.5 weeks.  I have a slightly tweaky PIP and sore A0 (although curiously they were fine while away last week) so should probably rest up anyway. Although having four whole weeks off just seems like too much.

[remus]

F: Nothing, drive back from Cornwall (7.5 fucking hours. I hate the M5, and google navigation) (~7.5hrs, 0dk)

Me and M probably drove past you! Somewhere in that 13mile northbound traffic jam I guess...

[dunnyg]

Been meaning to get involved for ages

stg:        twenty four point 9 and blue circles @anston
mtg:      7C, golden acre and back
ltg         8A, fit for exped, (!)

M: Depot
t: Short run
w: Depot - good go on the 35 board
th: rest
F: Anston, did blind bat, couldnt do the end of alpha, skin v thin on index!
s: widdop - dirty headpoint and finally got on umplebys arete.
s: Anston- Loads of 6's on the wave wall, nearly did the vert 7a circles. Very malham like

[Duma]

F: Nothing, drive back from Cornwall (7.5 fucking hours. I hate the M5, and google navigation) (~7.5hrs, 0dk)

Me and M probably drove past you! Somewhere in that 13mile northbound traffic jam I guess...

Thought you were stopping in Avon Gorge? I even dug out the link to the topo for you (while sat in stationary traffic...) How was Berry Head?

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - Dolomites! Third day on, bad skin and tired. Failed on a 7b+ traverse that was made of multiple 7b+ moves. The guy who gave us the tour and the beta clearly had never done it. Lots of walking.
Tue - Dolomites! Fourth day on, even worse skin and more tired. Schoolboy error, didn't bring food at the boulders. Idiot. Failed on another two 7b+'s that, this time, consisted of a single 7b+ move. Again, our host didn't  have a clue about what those problems were like. Should have tried the second one first, because I got very close on it despite being smashed. Lots of walking.
Wed - rest. Traveled back.
Thu - 34 degrees inside, 40 outside. So I did weights inside, and boxing bag in the garage. It is incredibly difficult to train with these temps.
Fri - cleans, up to PB of 67 kg. Then 61 kg (90%) x 3 x 3. EMOM pull ups + 10 kg 5 x 10.
Sat - rest. 250 km of turns with the bike. Exhausted.
Sun - rest. 190 kms of turns with the bike. Exhausted. Forearms smashed.

[Mike Highbury]

Intricately laid plans for the summer need revising.

The photos are rubbish but you got a selfie with the chopper pilot, right?

[Murph]

Mend well Duncan. Were your shoulders already compromised/weak or did this come out of the blue?

67kgs   
M-
T-works. All irn brus in 1 hr 10m.
Fingerboard max hangs. 4x10sx19mm w/+40kg open, 3x10sx14mm w/24kgs open. Great session. 10/10.
W-physio for Achilles injury. Apparently going from couch to 45k a week in two months was a case of too much too soon.
T-rehab run #1. 1m on/off x3. Works. Yellows. All but one in 1hr30.
F-rehab run #2. 2m on/off x3. Kettlebells 16kgs. Rubicon with kids. Ticked porthole traverse reverse - first 7A that wasn't a repeat this year.
S-rehab run #3. 3m on/off x3. All good. Kettlebells 16kgs. Checked out Toms Cave for the first time. Someone had done a  under Hannibal start so that put me off. Rubicon. Working on three tier test piece which gets 7B apparently. It doesn't play to my strengths at all but should be a good one to work while kids are feeding ducks. Also now seen porthole traverse reverse into low tier into debris groove gets 7C/8a+ but not sure how eliminatey it is for that grade. Still worth getting stuck in as it's a much nicer venue than Tom's!!
S- Fingers trashed. Feelings good.

On the up I reckon. Need to actually put effort into recovery - something about supercompensation. Nice to go out and get stuff done but not if it's at the cost of a damaging ligaments and stuff.

[andy popp]

Really sorry to hear the news Duncan. Wishing you quick healing!

[tomtom]

That sounds grim Duncan. Heal fast.

[iain]

That's rubbish Duncan, really hope it heals fast and well.

[Nibile]

P.s. Heal fast Duncan!

[yetix]

First time doing this but hoping it will help keep me a little more focused with training following a few injuries and far too much time spent outside!

67kg

STG: left middle finger and right wrist back to 100%
MTG: Any Hole is a Goal, Brad Pit, and la Fuente (stand)
LTG: 7c+

M:
T: pinks upto 28 at the depot (had issues with 21 however (pinch grip is incredibily weak so I've made so pinch blocks to address this)) - finger felt inflamed from this session despite not crimping too hard
W:
T: Antagonists on TRX + Lever work
F: Running
S:
S: antagonists on TRX + Lever work + very light bouldering to see how my finger was coping

[SA Chris]

F: Nothing, drive back from Cornwall (7.5 fucking hours. I hate the M5, and google navigation) (~7.5hrs, 0dk)

Surely you've lived in the SW for long enough now to know not to travel in a Friday?

M- Bouldering at wall. Felt OK, skin still crap after spending 2 weeks in pool and sea.
T - Not much.
W - a day full of hope. Promise of some surf and a sunny day. Glorious til 5 then pissed down, all rock wet, waves crap, and bouldering wall stripped for competition reset. Went home and sulked.
T - can't recall, a bit of weights and core.
F - nothing
S - went to knockburn loch. Did 4 k on SUP, with and without kids. cycled home, 28 km first road bike since hols. Avoided rain by 5 mins.
S - did railway relay - 42 k along old railway line - team of 5, of mixed age and ability. ran 2.5 k leg and 6 k leg. team finished in 3:47. Good fun.

[Duma]

F: Nothing, drive back from Cornwall (7.5 fucking hours. I hate the M5, and google navigation) (~7.5hrs, 0dk)

Surely you've lived in the SW for long enough now to know not to travel in a Friday?

don't always have a choice though 

[Teaboy]

Bad luck Duncan, hope you make a swift recovery. Did you have to drop off the route at the very end of the run out or did you get something in first?

[duncan]

Thanks for the thoughts everyone.

Mend well Duncan. Were your shoulders already compromised/weak or did this come out of the blue?

Always a bit weak and prone to tweaks. I had a SLAP tear on my other one twenty years ago.

The photos are rubbish but you got a selfie with the chopper pilot, right?

I was off my head and strapped to a stretcher. Hugo was useless and typically went for something tasteful and arty. How the hell is this supposed to boost my Instagram following?

Did you have to drop off the route at the very end of the run out or did you get something in first?

The "run out" is no big deal really.

BETA
There is an obvious bomber wire at the rest after the Flaky crux. A little higher there is a less obvious but very good wire. A couple of moves later there is a slightly specialist item, this was a meter or two below my feet when I jumped off. This held but there is a lot of rope stretch so you end up going a way. There are potentially other, more specialist, gear opportunities higher still.

DETAILED BETA
Rock 6, turquoise Walnut 8 sideways, purple totem in a pocket, possible skyhook on the jug but you really shouldn't fall here...

[Wood FT]

Great picture. Hope you heal up well and good.

[Wood FT]

STG - 8a
MTG - 8a+
LTG - 8b

M -
T -
W - crap weather, Indoor at the barn, 2.5 hours bouldering around 6a - 6c and 4 routes up to 7a
T -
F -
S - Berry Head weekend, spent a few hours putting the cauldron pirate rope in then climbed The Wave 6c and repeated Cod Tympani 7a+, perfect dws
S - Berry Head, Magical Mystery Tour with a shed load of people which made it a rather pumpier outing having to hang around, a very long adventure. Watched Pat Littlejohn being filmed climbing Moonraker for the 40th Anniversary. Wanted to try The Barrel Traverse but fell in trying to repeat the Rainbow Bridge crux, not once but then again pulling into the corner after the crux Absolutely knackered, could barely climb out.

Fun weekend seeing northern mates again. I hope this is all giving me a good base level of fitness, for doggy paddle at least. Back on sport this week.

[psborland]

Get well soon Duncan.

Not much last week as I spent most of my week off decorating my Kitchen and not climbing as planned.
M. Decorating
T. evening Cheedale cornice I was crap.
W. Decorating.
Th. planned partner cancelled so finished decorating.
F. Got cancelled on again ended up feeling disappointed in the garage.
Sa-Su. Visiting girlfriends family her Nephews begged me to take them bouldering so managed to salvage a little of the week at Leeds Depot which was quite a nice little centre and showed two 8 year olds that there is another sport other than football .

overall a very disappointing week.

[tomtom]

Bad, Good and Ugly summarises my week...

M: Rubicon. Working ABS direct etc.. more failure.. Shared the time there with a visting dutch climber Dennis (hello!) who managed it third go.. but we worked through some different foot placement beta (higher left foot) though I was too gassed to try it properly. He was playing around on the press and I increased my being able to hold on in the starting position time from a fraction of a second to three seconds - occasionally with a slap upwards.. progress...

T:

We: Got it done second go with higher LF beta. Felt easy (typical!). Interestingly, I was not strong enough over the last few weeks to pull on starting with the higher LF - so my compression strength has obviously increased through working the problem. I couldnt even pull on the Press... :D



Th: Baby had temperature...
Fr: Train to london with sicklyish child for Sister in Laws wedding
Sa: Wedding - baby soldiered on but not 100%
Su: A&E with baby at lunchtime - admitted to ward for a few hours with a chest infection - thankfully no need for IV AB's so was discharged saving overnighter in a hospital a long way from home... Hospital and paediatrics were superb...decided to stay night at brother in laws... missing our seats on the train back home...

Got back yesterday - not much sleep in the last few days and we all have stinking colds now...

[shark]

Late entry. Been off grid in Northumberland

11.4-5 (I think)

M.

T. PM. Drove back home from Manchester. Raining all way across but forecast look to clear in evening and outlook grim so decided to chance it. Crag x dry but not as grippy as Sunday .Tired and fell asleep on mat. Tried hard on JR and paced myself but didn't do as well as Sunday.

W.

T. Weather changeable. Dithered about whether to leave it till friday. Headed out with boys late afternoon in an antsy state (too much coffee and admin). Breezy. Crag dry. Similar connies to sunday. Stayed till late. Held pinch 5 times (PB?) and pushed through to go for slot on 3 of them. That pinch is really quite crap - I use front and higher of the thumb catches. Be good to get three fingers on but never seem to manage it. Ben made good progress opting for a modern faceplanty, cheaty high heel method which misses out the pinch and he looked in danger of doing it. First crag outing for Tes, new border collie pup. Team old skool there again - still on Sean's.

F.

S.

S. Kyloe with the boys. Not been for 20 years. Did the desperate Red Rum 6B and the brilliant Jocks and Geordies 6C+. Both repeats. Got quite drizzly but crag stayed dry. 

Currently in Northumberland till Saturday then a few days in the Lakes. Time to get serious with the training when I get back in the run up to autumn Malham season. Feel like I am bouldering well and fingers are relatively strong so would be good to knock off JR when I get back

[Sasquatch]

Duncan - Get well soon!

Been a long while (early June) since I've posted in Power club.  Seemed like a good time to get back to it. 

June - 10 day bouldering trip into the Alaska range - pretty cool  (needs a new post for it).  Got home to find out the wife had bought a new house while I was gone    Spent next two weeks getting financing in order and finishing up huge 18 month work project. 

July - first two weeks had brother in law and family living with us before they moved, while trying to get old house ready to sell. Listed old house. Moved into new house. Attended mates wedding. climbed one evening outside At end of month found out I was heavy and weak after doing fuckall for a month except drink, eat, and move. Decided to start training

August -  Start training

M - Mtn bike 3hrs
T - Fb, Max Hangs 18mm, 255#, Lift - DL, Bench, OH Press, Bicep Curls
W - Mtn Bike 1hr
T -
F - Bike/Hike combo - 4 hrs Drive to another wedding 
S - Wedding 
S - Mtn Bike - 45 min

Not the best start to training I've ever had, but the wedding was a bit of a speedbump.  This week is going much better.

[SA Chris]

At end of month found out I was heavy and weak after doing fuckall for a month except drink, eat, and move. Decided to start training

Have you submitted these scientific findings for publication?

Glad you are back on the send wagon!

[Sasquatch]

At end of month found out I was heavy and weak after doing fuckall for a month except drink, eat, and move. Decided to start training

Have you submitted these scientific findings for publication?

Indeed.  I recorded the exact number of drinks (a total of 105 pints in 30 days or roughly 3.5/day), amount of excess calories (approximately 700kcal excess per day), and exercise levels (a fuckalls worth of minutes per day).   This resulted in approximately 5% weight gain(9lbs), 38% net loss of strength, and a 100% increase in general shitness.  All with perfectly defensible data.

So the next test is to isolate the alcohol vs excess calories vs exercise levels to determine how much each factor plays a role in the overall descent into shitness and punterdom.