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UKB Power Club 387 24th-30th July (Read 8091 times)

shark

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UKB Power Club 387 24th-30th July
July 30, 2017, 10:05:17 pm
11.4-5

M.

T. Evening. Fingerboard. Consistent/stagnant with the last 4 max hangs sessions

W. Afternoon. Fouindry Wave, Mainly trying pink and black spots - great problem

T,

F. Am The 'P'. First visit with Ben. Bit humid. Did Magic Arrows 6A then Bloc Party 6C. Did the stand to Parklife 6C+ but didnt quite get the sit. Eve Foundry Bit more work on pink amd black spots

S.

S.   AM Crag X with the boys. Good connies. Just tried JR. Got through the pinch move three times (pos the most times in a session) but failed to nail it.

Drunk quite a lot this week. Generally feel I am getting stronger. Had hoped to get to High Tor but Nick's excuse this weak was injuring his bicep. Various property shizzle. Off to Northumberland this coming Saturday for a week with family for a week then a few days in the Lakes.   

Ben did this at Crag X - what problem is it?


tomtom

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#1 Re: UKB Power Club 387 24th-30th July
July 31, 2017, 07:47:14 am
Looks like this problem.



I quite liked it - felt about 6C


Murph

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#2 Re: UKB Power Club 387 24th-30th July
July 31, 2017, 07:49:46 am
Cheers Shark. It's good the P innit?

67kgs  :spank:
Achilles still injured.
M-
T-max hangs, up to 40kgs on 19mm and 24kgs on 14mm.
W-works, all pinkles and all but 4 yellows.
T-works, yellows including 3 of the 4. As ever it was a matter of beta.
F-rubicon with kids. I barely warmed up before pulling onto BS - turns out it's gotten much harder in the last year. But I was only really there for something to do with the kids. TT looked like he was closing in on BSD  :wave: The 3 year old climbed up to the first bolt of something while I wasn't looking - a sign that it wasn't really time to get stuck in!
S-Rubicon again with kids. This time with the mrs so I had a few goes of the 7A porthole traverse. Maybe next time. Pumpy. Also ticked the low traverse for the first time. The 1 year old went swimming in the puddle under the warm up and in the river which cut things short.
S-The P with kids. Managed two of the 6A warm ups but not the third. Gosh I was feeling weak. Can recommend the place as a first class kids venue. The 3 year old loved driving a boat round the duck pond.

Hope to fit more fingerboard this week and generally knuckle down with conditioning. And get the kg situation under control. FFS in the scheme of things doing a few pull ups and losing a few kilos isn't hard and certainly isn't complicated!

duncan

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#3 Re: UKB Power Club 387 24th-30th July
July 31, 2017, 08:51:48 am
STG: Font. 6c in Fontainebleau. Not a chance! Don't get injured.
MTG - E5 by end of August.
LTG - 7b+RP, LH&F tbc.


M - Ambush meeting with boss turned appraisal from hell.
T - Drove to Fontainebleau. Arrived late and tired so didn't try to climb.
W - Roche aux Sabots. The lad not into it as the children's circuit had a twatty family with untethered dog in place. Attempted to warm-up on the Oranges. Nothing, not a thing, mentally or physically. Felt unsafe to climb and gave up. Then waited 2 hours and 45 minutes (nearly as long as The Godfather) in Decathlon whilst other half chose swimwear. Apparently this can’t be rushed. Whilst leaving the car park, reversed into a post with an impressive crash. No damage! Perhaps my luck was changing?
T - Felt slightly better but still not enough to go climbing. Thankfully it rained so we could visit Fontainebleau château with a clear conscience “...all about the bl-bling, bl-bling”.
F - Rocher des Potets. Did about half the orange circuit before aches and pains intervened. The lad had a great time mucking about and managed a couple of yellows. Much better.
S - Hautes-Plaines. Did most of the orange circuit. Deserted, unpolished, moss and pine needles on the top-outs, felt like it was deep in the forest, despite only being 400m from the parking on a summer weekend. Loved it.
S - Isatis. Quiet at 8am. Did 8 reds. All brilliant. Drove home.

Still in love with Fontainebleau despite a couple of wobbles. Good to investigate a couple of new areas. Starting to get into the groove just as it was time to leave. Family also enjoyed trip and we all agreed a full week would have been better. Roll on 2018.

Plan: power endurance sessions. Last week before family away for August so no weekend trips, might manage a sneaky midweek hit if the stars align. Need to shed a couple of kgs.

Coops_13

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#4 Re: UKB Power Club 387 24th-30th July
July 31, 2017, 09:00:26 am
STG: Crush in Lakes
MTG: 7C

M:
T: Arch, good session. Did some comp problems I hadn't done before, first go. 1-4-7, 1-5-7 leading R arm, fail on L. Did 55 board project from last week quite easily and set about trying a harder one. Finished by doing ring muscle-ups for first time ever, quite easy just needed to be shown the beta! Also did close-grip muscle-ups which are quite fun!
W:  :alky:
T: Arch, fun session mucking about with mates eliminating moves. Very run and jumpy set which while fun, is annoying. Spent some time on the 30 board.
F:
S: Anston. 2nd session on Bullet 7C. Sorted out new beta using R heel and slapping R hand to lip. Feeling good on this and got fairly close to slapping the lip. Failed on Nazgul LH 7B but did Rivendell 6C+ and Apprentice Wall 6C, knackered.

S: Rubicon, had an hour or so here failing to pull on anything as knackered from the day before. Projecting at your limit is hard. Sacked it off and drove back to London

Off to the Lakes for a week next weekend so pretty psyched for that!

shark

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#5 Re: UKB Power Club 387 24th-30th July
July 31, 2017, 10:39:21 am
Cheers Shark. It's good the P innit?

Maybe not good good, but its good that it provides another reliably dry, mid grade venue. We had a good time.

36chambers

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#6 Re: UKB Power Club 387 24th-30th July
July 31, 2017, 11:33:07 am
STG: stronger fingers.

M: Indoors. RH 1 arm max hang on BM2K smallest edge. Managed 5.8 seconds! Happy to have surpassed my arbitrary 5 second aim for 2017. Although since I haven't really followed any rigorous finger strengthening plan, it's possible I've just maxed my hang potential rather than actually gotten stronger, psyched regardless. Could only manage 1.1 sec with LH, tweaky finger still letting down the side.
T:
W:
T: Indoors. 50 board, still struggling to get back into it, probably too warm. CWP style hangs on campus rungs.
F: Fingerboarding. BM app 6C session. Painful and hard.
S: Belaying first timers at Brimham.
S:

Fiend

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#7 Re: UKB Power Club 387 24th-30th July
July 31, 2017, 11:43:38 am
Shark if you want to meet for any climbing in the County or the Lakes message me, I might be up for it. If the current sunshine and shitting showers continues I will be quite up for bouldering too  >:(

shark

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#8 Re: UKB Power Club 387 24th-30th July
July 31, 2017, 01:45:56 pm
Shark if you want to meet for any climbing in the County or the Lakes message me, I might be up for it. If the current sunshine and shitting showers continues I will be quite up for bouldering too  >:(

Yes - but clean three star routes at honeypot locations only...

csl

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#9 Re: UKB Power Club 387 24th-30th July
July 31, 2017, 02:07:57 pm
STG - end of August

- stick to board sessions for whole month
- 7B
- Do 2 board projects. 1/2

MTG - end of Year

- something off the lifetime list

Monday

nothing

Tuesday

Hoping to get out near bristol, lunchtime commitments overran so couldnt in the end

Wednesday

Arch B1

Various problems up to V6

Thursday

nothing

Friday

Arch B1

Various problems up to V6

Saturday

nothing

Sunday

nothing

Off to Wales next week, so keen to tick a 7B and do a spot of trad.

Otherwise I need to ensure I don't slip into my default of doing problems which take a couple of goes and never trying much harder than that, my two sessions this week are examples of this. If I have a week without a board session in August please give me negative karma.

tommytwotone

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#10 Re: UKB Power Club 387 24th-30th July
July 31, 2017, 02:41:20 pm
Goal: Font 7anything


Another short update from me...
  • Stressful work week
  • Full week on wagon went to pot on Friday night as result of the above
  • Bad sleep week
  • No gym
  • Depot Tues and Thurs(!)
  • 100 reps a day
All in all, not exactly the recipe for recapturing one's former glories. Hanging in there.






kelvin

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#11 Re: UKB Power Club 387 24th-30th July
July 31, 2017, 03:40:20 pm


S: Rubicon, had an hour or so here failing to pull on anything as knackered from the day before. Projecting at your limit is hard. Sacked it off and drove back to London


I was stood under Rubicon yesterday and nodded as you were leaving - we'd not been there long and I was surprised you were off as it felt like it was gonna be a good day. I understand why now  :)

TobyD

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#12 Re: UKB Power Club 387 24th-30th July
July 31, 2017, 04:10:08 pm
Monday turbo trainer early wave evening, hard yellow in 2 halves felt hard, so endurance training: 10 reps on pocket 7a route, rest = 2x work time. Hard after lap 8 but no failures.
Tuesday run round Burbage and over to lady cannings plantation
Wednesday wave session, warm down 7a
Thursday Steep Foundry routes leading session with Keith. Really sore muscles and feeling tired. Up to 7a+, but only 6c+ clean.
Friday run in endcliffe park in the pouring rain. First five minutes grim, latter 35 or so, brilliant.
Saturday moat buttress with Keith, lead the warm up, tried king arthritis: all moves x3
Sunday moat buttress with Keith, tried bouldery 7b+



Great weekend outside. Had plenty of burl for the routes, but not enough skin. Boring rest day today.... Need to do some finger board and more confidence building leading everything

SA Chris

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#13 Re: UKB Power Club 387 24th-30th July
July 31, 2017, 05:39:49 pm
First week back after hols

M - wall session. felt OK on more vertical walls, but crap on steep. Skin in bits unsurprising after spending 2 weeks in pool / sea
T - nowt
W - crappy day, but storm passed over, and sun came out, showing a small swell on cams. Got home, grabbed boards and got to beach. Typical windswell, no clean lines and paddle fest, but nice to get in.
T - nowt
F- set out intending for an evening run, but on a whim took a detour for the coast, nipped down to bottom of sea cliffs at Green Slough and traversed grass and rock ledges just above sea for a km or so, before escaping up the rock steps at Johnsheugh. Fun outing, grass dry enough to be safe, couple of awkward steps where a fall would be inadvisable. Spotted a lot of potentially good bouldering, but pretty spread out and unlikely to dry out well. Some possible DWS too. Managed about 5 km run after this, pretty tiring.
S - nothing
S - bit of weights

dave

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#14 Re: UKB Power Club 387 24th-30th July
July 31, 2017, 06:43:47 pm
Looks like this problem.



I quite liked it - felt about 6C

Speckled Egg sitter

psborland

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#15 Re: UKB Power Club 387 24th-30th July
August 01, 2017, 09:54:20 am
M. BBC working V5-V6 circuit problems. seem hard.
T.
W. BBC V5-V6 circuit problems still seem hard
Th. Core b1 2 rounds
Th.- Sa helping Gf move .
Su . Knackered went to Cheedale cornice . Struggling with strength endurance.

Not the best week

tomtom

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#16 Re: UKB Power Club 387 24th-30th July
August 01, 2017, 03:37:29 pm


The above pretty much sums up my week. Rubicon Tuesday and Friday.

nai

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#17 Re: UKB Power Club 387 24th-30th July
August 01, 2017, 07:34:50 pm
Week and a bit, don't think I'll be up to much more this week.

M - Decided against going for Aberration, can't quite remember why, conditions or skin most likely I guess.  Prow - wasn't feeling on it. Partner told me the sequence for the roof, did all the moves but couldn't link too many of them.  Couldn't even link P2.  Poor show all round.

T - nowt

W - nowt

Th - drove over to Wales and met up with 205Chris who had seen my request for partners and kindly offered to belay between his bouldering sessions.  LPT in evening, finished Night Glue which had been on the WIP list for 3 years since a quick visit when i managed to blow the onsight then a rushed RP attempt.  Went upstairs to do Axle Attack but a drizzle set in which stopped play for the night.

F - up early with rain forecast for afternoon, headed up to Wavelength to try King of Drunks but couldn't do the first or last move. First was physical but last more a head issue I think.  Did some of the quality problems on Utopia and Wavelength though, very enjoyable.  Showers arrived early, tried to sit it out but a heavy drizzle set in, checked out slate, etc but same as until the rain proper arrived later.

S - 8am start slowly warming up on Cromlech boulders. Chris went to try Mr Fantastic, I couldn't make any impression on anything at Jerry's. Went to check out Cromlech and Grochan but all target routes still wet to some degree.
Headed to slate in the afternoon, arrived at Colossus and remembered it's the one slate wall that doesn't dry quickly.  Did Bella Lugosi as first trad route for 10 months then went and did The Mau Mau, my hardest trad lead ever and a route I've wanted to do for 20+ years.  Didn't disappoint.  Did Manatese too afterwards which did slightly (for a *** classic anyway). 

Sun - Out to Porth Ysgo in the morning.  4 1/2 years ago I'd waited all day for Incredible Shaking Man SS to dry out then repeatedly fallen off post crux, bascially on the V3 section with the tide coming in and darkness looming, and had to walk run away.
It was wet when we arrived again so had to wait again. The same move again proved problematic, took an age to work out and once sussed I couldn't do the sit start. Managed the SS eventually, with guidance from Chris telling me what i was doing different each time, then fell off the usual move again another three times. Had to relearn the move with the tide getting a bit close for comfort then managed to get it from the start. Bit of an epic nearly blowing it having never done the stand but topped out under instruction with a YYFY. Five minutes the later the landing was submerged.

Eve - Chris suggested we go to Braichmelyn Boulder. My skin was suffering but like teh look of a quality V1 arete and V2 Ramp. I'd have been happy with those but the arete 's V6 sit start looked so easy that I had to give it a go.  Turned out it wasn't easy but it was quality and I was surprised to manage it.

Mon - AM - Wet in the Pass, too hot at LPT - Not a good place with waffer theen teeps but it's dry at least. Had to dog the 6b warm up, decided to try Pink Pinkie as it sounded the least sharp option. Blew the onsight on the razor holds then glued tape on six tips and had a go on Bad Boy while I waited for shade before trying a redpoint. Unfortunately the tide arrived before the shade so Chris finished standing on a block beneath the route while I climbed the upper wall.

Eve - seemed a shame to waste a nice evening in the pass so decided to go do Kaiserbirge Wall, a (not so) classic HVS, on the Grochan.  Turns out it's like a hard version of Jack's Rake on Pavey, but not as good.  Should have manned up and got on Quasar.

Tue - up to Cromlech boulders early to get warm but they were a bit wet after overnight rain, so after a limited warm up back to the Grochan to get on Quasar.  Unfortunatley there was one wet hold; the crux finger jam came out just as I was reaching for what subsequently turned out to be the end of the hard stuff.  Got through it at the third attempt then the Grochan had a final fuck you moment when a shower passed over and meant I got to repeat the now wet crux of Kaiserbirge Wall without all the useful gear that I'd placed below. Then the rope got jammed after the ab.  Then it rained.  Time to go home.

Good trip, lots of shower dodging but climbed every day, sometimes twice a day and very happy to finish Night Glue and ISM and to get The Mau Mau done.  Quite weary.

Massive thanks to Chris for belays, encouragement, company and general awesomeness   :2thumbsup:

Wood FT

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#18 Re: UKB Power Club 387 24th-30th July
August 01, 2017, 07:48:32 pm
Nice one Nai, mau mau looks great

nai

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#19 Re: UKB Power Club 387 24th-30th July
August 01, 2017, 08:14:36 pm
It's great, the difficulty (and pump) builds and builds to a climax in the upper crack.

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


tomtom

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#20 Re: UKB Power Club 387 24th-30th July
August 01, 2017, 08:22:46 pm
Nice one on ISM Nai.. I remember that trip well.... sounds like a great week.

Nibile

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#21 Re: UKB Power Club 387 24th-30th July
August 02, 2017, 03:59:01 pm
Power Club

Mon - rack pulls up to 128 kg x 4 x 4. Mega.
Tue - rest.
Wed - 1 cm edge session, putting in some volume at 90%: 5" x 5 + 30 kg, felt absolutely brilliant. Dumbbell complex. Cleans 5 x 5 51 kg. Felt already some progress on the edge. CNS adaptment surely but nice nonetheless.
Thu - paused pull pups + 10 kg 4 x 5. Torrid and tired.
Fri - rest.
Sat - Dolomites! Felt heavy as fuck. Did what is probably another new problem, a nice traverse on the lip of a roof. Very cool.
Sun - Dolomites! Felt heavy as fuck. Repeated a 7b+ done last year. Tried bits of the project that I did last year, got cramps in my abs. Excruciating pain. Wet holds. Cut my losses.

So, ups and downs. Turned out I injured both my index fingers on Wednesday's session doing hangs and pull ups on front2 full crimps on the small BM edges. Not as bas as last time, but clearly my joints have reached the point of no return.
Felt very heavy on ze rocks. Maybe I was, maybe not. It was extremely hot anyway.
Back home with temps in the 40's. Bloody hell. Must rest fingers.

205Chris

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#22 Re: UKB Power Club 387 24th-30th July
August 02, 2017, 08:13:07 pm
Massive thanks to Chris for belays, encouragement, company and general awesomeness   :2thumbsup:

 :thumbsup: No worries

shark

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#23 Re: UKB Power Club 387 24th-30th July
August 02, 2017, 10:32:29 pm
Massive thanks to Chris for belays, encouragement, company and general awesomeness   :2thumbsup:

 :thumbsup: No worries

In the interest of editorial balance, I think you are a dick

205Chris

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#24 Re: UKB Power Club 387 24th-30th July
August 03, 2017, 08:41:13 am
Massive thanks to Chris for belays, encouragement, company and general awesomeness   :2thumbsup:

 :thumbsup: No worries

In the interest of editorial balance, I think you are a dick

Just because I climbed 8b before you  :P

 

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