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Ned has flashed an 8B+ !!! (Read 6540 times)

shark

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Ned has flashed an 8B+ !!!
July 23, 2017, 10:54:20 pm
https://www.instagram.com/p/BW51XJBBcvp/

Alex Megos reported that Ned has flashed Nalle's "Trust Issues" at Rocklands commenting "That fella knows how to use this heels and how to lock down to his hips"
 


Fiend

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#1 Re: Ned has flashed an 8B+ !!!
July 23, 2017, 10:56:32 pm
Wow. He's quite good that Ned!  :strongbench: :strongbench: :strongbench:

BID

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#2 Re: Ned has flashed an 8B+ !!!
July 23, 2017, 11:19:37 pm
Second 8B+ flash after Ondra on Jade???

r-man

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#3 Re: Ned has flashed an 8B+ !!!
July 23, 2017, 11:46:48 pm
Second 8B+ flash after Ondra on Jade???

Woods flashed Entlinge in 2011. Was 8C at the time, but now considered easier.
Ondra flashed Gecko Assis and Jade.
Webb flashed The Globalist.

Still quite a short list!

ducko

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#4 Re: Ned has flashed an 8B+ !!!
July 24, 2017, 06:42:35 am
Amazing

Nibile

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#5 Re: Ned has flashed an 8B+ !!!
July 24, 2017, 09:04:01 am
Deserved its own thread!
Video?
Interview?
Legendary stuff.

Doylo

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#6 Re: Ned has flashed an 8B+ !!!
July 24, 2017, 09:21:27 am
Sounds like he used his magic heels to good effect. Such a good skill to have, people like Ned and Robins can reduce the brutalness of a move because they can make their heels stick to anything. Ned must be one of the best in the world at it.

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dave

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#8 Re: Ned has flashed an 8B+ !!!
July 24, 2017, 10:38:25 am
Good to see Ned still repping the classic Velcros look there.

Doylo

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#9 Re: Ned has flashed an 8B+ !!!
July 24, 2017, 02:22:16 pm
Good to see Ned still repping the classic Velcros look there.

Baggy heels innit  ;)

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#10 Re: Ned has flashed an 8B+ !!!
July 24, 2017, 03:07:00 pm
And Shauna flashing an 8A - Puccio seems to have flashed a couple of 8As now - are they the only ones?

jwi

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#11 Re: Ned has flashed an 8B+ !!!
July 24, 2017, 05:08:25 pm
Shiraishi, surely? She's done 8C, supposedly.

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#12 Re: Ned has flashed an 8B+ !!!
July 24, 2017, 07:05:34 pm
Shiraishi, surely? She's done 8C, supposedly.

Yep, good point - Swordfish Trombone back in 2015

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#13 Re: Ned has flashed an 8B+ !!!
July 25, 2017, 12:29:28 pm
And Shauna flashing an 8A - Puccio seems to have flashed a couple of 8As now - are they the only ones?

https://www.instagram.com/p/BW9gu9hgrqq/?taken-by=shaunacoxsey&hl=en

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#14 Re: Ned has flashed an 8B+ !!!
July 25, 2017, 12:34:34 pm
Second 8B+ flash after Ondra on Jade???

Woods flashed Entlinge in 2011. Was 8C at the time, but now considered easier.
Ondra flashed Gecko Assis and Jade.
Webb flashed The Globalist.

Still quite a short list!

Webb also flashed simple knowing but gave it 8B

andy popp

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#15 Re: Ned has flashed an 8B+ !!!
July 26, 2017, 03:48:40 pm
Interview here: https://www.theprojectmagazine.com/features/2017/7/25/ned-feehally-interview

Edit: have now read it, doesn't say much at all about the flash.
« Last Edit: July 26, 2017, 04:07:43 pm by andy popp »

remus

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#16 Re: Ned has flashed an 8B+ !!!
July 28, 2017, 08:10:48 am
There's an interview up on ukc about the flash but it's also pretty adroit.

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#17 Re: Ned has flashed an 8B+ !!!
July 28, 2017, 08:22:48 am
There's not much to say about a flash really

Q: How did it go?
A: Boshed it off

Q: How did you train for this?
A: Keep trying to bosh them off

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#18 Re: Ned has flashed an 8B+ !!!
July 28, 2017, 10:08:12 am
"What was going through your mind?"

"Pull hard. No, harder. Good, now keep pulling. Oh, I'm at the top."

Will Hunt

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#19 Re: Ned has flashed an 8B+ !!!
July 28, 2017, 01:02:20 pm
These interview questions do seem really trite. Whenever I've done my hardest flashes it has been specifically because I tried to flash them. I.e I didn't accidentally flash them, I had it in mind that that problem would be flashable and made sure I climbed at my best.

I bet that even if he hadn't planned to try and flash it before setting off on the trip, by the time he was about to pull on he was resolved to have a really all-out go.
I would have liked a more intricate breakdown of the climb. Was it ever touch and go or did he find it totally piss. Most importantly, did he lap it? You've only performed a real flash burn off when you come back down, have a little shake out and run back up it.

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#20 Re: Ned has flashed an 8B+ !!!
July 29, 2017, 09:39:17 am
 :agree: with Will. I'm sure there's more to be said. Although maybe Ned doesn't feel that strongly about it.

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#21 Re: Ned has flashed an 8B+ !!!
July 29, 2017, 11:17:27 am
Some of the questions are a bit answered though aren't they?

I bet that even if he hadn't planned to try and flash it before setting off on the trip, by the time he was about to pull on he was resolved to have a really all-out go.

"When I saw the problem I thought it looked like my sort of bag. It seemed to revolve around flexibility and heel hooking skills, which I tend to get on well with. I really wanted to try it, but the thought of flashing it didn't even cross my mind."

Was it ever touch and go or did he find it totally piss.

"I set off with a general idea of the sequence, and I was lucky to have Dave Graham on hand to shout advice when I started to look lost! He had spent a bit of time on the problem before and knew it inside out. Without his input I'm sure I'd have fluffed it."


Ok sure it's short, but you get the idea.

tomtom

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#22 Re: Ned has flashed an 8B+ !!!
July 29, 2017, 11:43:54 am
I thought it was an alright interview - a load of stuff about beastmakers - training and injury.

Will Hunt

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#23 Re: Ned has flashed an 8B+ !!!
July 29, 2017, 12:24:33 pm
Some of the questions are a bit answered though aren't they?

I bet that even if he hadn't planned to try and flash it before setting off on the trip, by the time he was about to pull on he was resolved to have a really all-out go.

"When I saw the problem I thought it looked like my sort of bag. It seemed to revolve around flexibility and heel hooking skills, which I tend to get on well with. I really wanted to try it, but the thought of flashing it didn't even cross my mind."

I guess I just don't really believe him. If what he says is true then he's completely pissed it. Don't you think that to flash something that close to your limit you have to be trying really hard - i.e. you've decided to have a flash go? You're not just checking out the positions and trying to get a feel for the holds and the moves; you're really trying to do it.

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#24 Re: Ned has flashed an 8B+ !!!
July 29, 2017, 12:52:47 pm
I'm not sure. MY hardest boulder flash (a lowly 7A+ called harry spotter) I just walked up after seeing folks having goes and did it.

On the other hand, maybe he's reporting how he felt? In other words, maybe he needed to think he wasn't "going for an 8B+ flash" in order not to fluff it?  I've certainly done the same on sport redpoints. In fact, my hardest redpoint started getting away from me and in the end I did it while "going to get the clips back"...