Author Topic: Lists: UK Crack climbs by size E4-E8  (Read 2593 times)

Offline ashtond6

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Lists: UK Crack climbs by size E4-E8
« on: July 16, 2017, 10:25:20 pm »
My list is mostly peakcentic.
On ukc people see to just recommend The File and Bond Street...


Fingers
Fingerlicker E4 11c
Coventry Street E4 11d
London Wall E5 12a
Bob Hope E4 11c?
Calamity Crack E4
Get Rich Quick (Dukes) E6
Great Tribulation E6 7c+ 13a
Our Forte E5
The Soft Parade (hallmoor) E6
Kink E6 7b+
High Street E4
Wellington Crack E4
Milky Way E6
Hunter House Road Toad E5
Pretty Girls Make Graves E6
Goosey goosey gander E5
Reticent Mass Murder E5
Atomic Hot Rod E5
Behemoth E5


Hands
Harvest E4
Zippatrocity 7B+ 8a


Offwidth
Gigglin' E6
Fear of Infection E4
Ramshaw Crack E4
Gobblers Roof E7
Goliath E5


Online TobyD

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Re: Lists: UK Crack climbs by size E4-E8
« Reply #1 on: July 17, 2017, 12:13:36 am »

Fingerlicker E4 11c
Coventry Street E4 11d
London Wall E5 12a
Bob Hope E4 11c?



IIRC finger licker would be standard 5.10+, along with most UK offwidths. Having said that, it's a good list. Hogarth and the slate have some good cracks.
A real prize would be torture at Vixen Tor. Always wanted to do this, but you do risk being shot by the land owner.
show me the sticky damp

Offline guypercival

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Re: Lists: UK Crack climbs by size E4-E8
« Reply #2 on: July 17, 2017, 10:26:33 am »
Really esoteric
The mean machine at Near Hearkening Rock goes at E7 I think Ally Smith may be the only person to have attempted it.
Starts with fingers then hands then offwidth

Offline Ally Smith

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Re: Lists: UK Crack climbs by size E4-E8
« Reply #3 on: July 17, 2017, 11:07:28 am »
Yeah - I have it on good authority that the claimed first ascent was a Simpson-esque fabrication  :worms:

Couple of moves on edges to access some sharp finger locks, then gradually widening to baggy hands at the lip; all at 70degrees overhanging. Maybe the Wideboyz should go look?


Offline Dan Cheetham

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Re: Lists: UK Crack climbs by size E4-E8
« Reply #4 on: July 17, 2017, 11:35:46 am »
Kink, hunter house road road, and reticent mass murderer aren't really crack climbs. Maybe have a jam or two. Can't think of one on hunter house. And are e5 and e4's respectively. Kink being some of the hardest moves on an e5 up there, but probably French 7b on crimps and layaways, tough and safe.

Offline guypercival

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Re: Lists: UK Crack climbs by size E4-E8
« Reply #5 on: July 17, 2017, 11:40:50 am »
You need to get down here and finish it off!

Other cracks down south are Stone Wings at Witches point E5 6a
About 7a+ and mainly hands
And The Clart Mountain Project at 7b+ at Crymlyn which takes a massive ceiling on hands some of which are baggy.

Offline Johnny Brown

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Re: Lists: UK Crack climbs by size E4-E8
« Reply #6 on: July 17, 2017, 11:54:27 am »
Beat Surrender, Pembroke - 5.12 thin fingers laybacking
The Pit and the Pendulum, Nesscliffe - 5.11++ 45m  OW, Hands, fists
Nebuliser, Grinshill 5.12a? Perfect overhanging splitter fingers to hands

Offline Neil F

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Re: Lists: UK Crack climbs by size E4-E8
« Reply #7 on: July 17, 2017, 12:30:19 pm »
11   ;)

 ...though I've got a mental block on where Calamity Crack is.  Chew Valley perhaps?  Don't think I've done it tho' (nor any in the hands or offwidth category, not surprisingly!).

Offline Nigel

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Re: Lists: UK Crack climbs by size E4-E8
« Reply #8 on: July 17, 2017, 12:35:42 pm »
Running Hill Pits innit?

Offline duncan

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Re: Lists: UK Crack climbs by size E4-E8
« Reply #9 on: July 17, 2017, 12:41:44 pm »

Fingerlicker E4 11c
Coventry Street E4 11d
London Wall E5 12a
Bob Hope E4 11c?



IIRC finger licker would be standard 5.10+, along with most UK offwidths. Having said that, it's a good list. Hogarth and the slate have some good cracks.
A real prize would be torture at Vixen Tor. Always wanted to do this, but you do risk being shot by the land owner.


Fingerlicker at 11c may derive from a comment I made a long time ago on forum far, far away. I remember thinking 'typical .11c' when I did it and was between trips to The Valley. Perhaps I was having an off-day, it's got to be easier than Butterballs.

The Kraken, TomPR's roofcrack at Hartland. Hands, fingers, mono. V13.

Small child for scale:


Offline Will Hunt

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Re: Lists: UK Crack climbs by size E4-E8
« Reply #10 on: July 17, 2017, 12:47:48 pm »
Is Welcome to the Cruel World a crack? E9 though, so not really for this list anyway.

Offline Nutty

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Re: Lists: UK Crack climbs by size E4-E8
« Reply #11 on: July 17, 2017, 12:53:48 pm »
Requiem? E8 6b

Online reeve

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Re: Lists: UK Crack climbs by size E4-E8
« Reply #12 on: July 17, 2017, 01:36:59 pm »
Good list!

Only two omissions that come to mind are 30 seconds over winterland, Widdop (bouldery 5.11d? finger jam into hands in a 50 deg roof) and Relax and Swing, Swanage (Seperate Reality style 6m roof hand crack, 5.11d?). Grades are wildly unreliable guestimates.

Offline Wood FT

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Re: Lists: UK Crack climbs by size E4-E8
« Reply #13 on: July 17, 2017, 02:20:16 pm »
Horizontal places - E8, Trevellan Pembroke
Limestone means Limestone

Offline Teaboy

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Re: Lists: UK Crack climbs by size E4-E8
« Reply #14 on: July 17, 2017, 02:39:25 pm »
A couple is like to know a bit more about if anyone's done them:
Cobalt Dream E4 Roof, don't know anyone who's done it.
Lyng Dynasty, Beinn Eigh (sp?) E5 only know one person who's done this, it's meant to be brilliant
Atomic Hotrod E5 - Cromlech, fingers then hands

Offline Tommy

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Re: Lists: UK Crack climbs by size E4-E8
« Reply #15 on: July 17, 2017, 02:52:51 pm »
Fingerlicker E4 11c - really nice.
Coventry Street E4 11d - only 1 or 2 hard moves, mostly E1
London Wall E5 12a - classic pocket pulling
Bob Hope E4 11c? - nice, but pretty short and not as pure as the guide suggests
Calamity Crack E4 - really good.
Get Rich Quick (Dukes) E6 - not that cracky. More like E5
Great Tribulation E6 7c+ 13a - ace, but not that cracky in some ways.
Our Forte E5 - pumpy bugger. Looks like HVS, which sets you up for a good sandbag
The Soft Parade (hallmoor) E6 - not that cracky in reality. Cruxy.
Kink E6 7b+
High Street E4 - nice
Wellington Crack E4 - just a good as London Wall
Milky Way E6 - pumpy. One of the best for real crack skills IMO
Hunter House Road Toad E5 - not a crack. Just a few layback moves.
Pretty Girls Make Graves E6 - not very cracky.
Goosey goosey gander E5 - layback quite a bit
Reticent Mass Murder E5 - short and bouldery but good
Atomic Hot Rod E5 - another good punisher. Hard if you don't use tech
Behemoth E5


Hands
Harvest E4 - ace
Zippatrocity 7B+ 8a. Boulder, good for practising efficiency on that one.


Offwidth
Gigglin' E6 - Prob should come down to E5 really. Very similar difficulty to Goliath
Fear of Infection E4 - Nice and wide. Good for tech
Ramshaw Crack E4 - Too bouldery to learn that much. Better to go and do laps on Melvin Bragg?
Gobblers Roof E7 - wet and disgusting.
Goliath E5 - better if you properly offwidth it. E6 if LH side in and no face holds. Hard E5 if RH in and no face holds. 


I've got a big list at home somewhere, I'll put some down when I find it! :-)


Offline Tommy

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Re: Lists: UK Crack climbs by size E4-E8
« Reply #16 on: July 17, 2017, 02:55:36 pm »

Cobalt Dream E4 Roof, don't know anyone who's done it.


It's all about the roof section. Tricky one to onsight as I think it required a bit of a spin in direction. Beautiful location and great rock.

Offline ashtond6

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Re: Lists: UK Crack climbs by size E4-E8
« Reply #17 on: July 17, 2017, 04:25:54 pm »

I've got a big list at home somewhere, I'll put some down when I find it! :-)

Thanks Tom! Would be appreciated,

OK so updated list:

Fingers
Fingerlicker E4 11b 
Coventry Street E4 11d
London Wall E5 12a
Bob Hope E4 11c
Calamity Crack E4
High Street E4
Wellington Crack E4
Milky Way E6 pumpy
Goosey goosey gander E5
Reticent Mass Murder E5 short and bouldery
Atomic Hot Rod E5
Behemoth E5
Beat Surrender E5 5.12


Hands
Harvest E4
Zippatrocity 7B+ 8a. Boulder
Our Forte E5 - pumpy hands
Stone Wings E5 7a+
Pit & The Pendulum E6 5.11d
Horizontal Places E8
Cobalt Dream E5


Offwidth
Gigglin' E6
Fear of Infection E4
Ramshaw Crack E4
Melvin Bragg 7B
Goliath E5 - E6 if LH side in and no face holds. Hard E5 if RH in and no face holds. 


I've removed the non crack ones & not included Requiem as aren't all the cruxes face climbing?

There are less than I thought  :(


Online T_B

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Re: Lists: UK Crack climbs by size E4-E8
« Reply #18 on: July 17, 2017, 04:45:37 pm »


There are less than I thought  :(

That's cos you've hardly got any on there  ;)

Offline Dan Cheetham

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Re: Lists: UK Crack climbs by size E4-E8
« Reply #19 on: July 17, 2017, 05:58:22 pm »
Have you done the stuff in the e1-e3 range? That's where a lot of the quality is at. E.g. Undercut crack, requiem, crack of gloom, saville street, etc etc. A lot of em are harder and more sustained than the bouldery stuff. Sorcerous Digitalis might fit your bill.

Offline Dan Cheetham

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Re: Lists: UK Crack climbs by size E4-E8
« Reply #20 on: July 17, 2017, 05:59:30 pm »
Also harvest is e3 isn't it?

Offline SamT

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Re: Lists: UK Crack climbs by size E4-E8
« Reply #21 on: July 17, 2017, 06:22:17 pm »
Have you done the stuff in the e1-e3 range? That's where a lot of the quality is at. E.g. Undercut crack, requiem, crack of gloom, saville street, etc etc. A lot of em are harder and more sustained than the bouldery stuff. Sorcerous Digitalis might fit your bill.

Indeed - Mangler at Stanage, Sentinal at Chatsworth?
Size matters

Offline Neil F

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Re: Lists: UK Crack climbs by size E4-E8
« Reply #22 on: July 17, 2017, 06:43:08 pm »
Running Hill Pits innit?

Ah yes, of course.

That makes the score 11, and failed on one...   

Offline ashtond6

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Re: Lists: UK Crack climbs by size E4-E8
« Reply #23 on: July 17, 2017, 07:02:54 pm »
Have you done the stuff in the e1-e3 range? That's where a lot of the quality is at. E.g. Undercut crack, requiem, crack of gloom, saville street, etc etc. A lot of em are harder and more sustained than the bouldery stuff. Sorcerous Digitalis might fit your bill.

Yeah done most E1-3, although not Sentinel and Saville! Will do sentinel soon but Saville has never appealed!

Sorcerous is a good idea

Offline Will Hunt

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Re: Lists: UK Crack climbs by size E4-E8
« Reply #24 on: July 17, 2017, 08:19:54 pm »
Moughton Mauler at Moughton Nab. E4 roof crack on lime.
Quad Crack at Attermire. Really good looking E4 splitter.
Eavestone Crack and Genesis at Eavestone.

Sacrificial Crack (E4) on the Napes. The Vikings is only E3 but is worth putting on just for the photo in the old guide of the bloke doing a one arm hang off a fist jam.
Is the bulk of Incantations in a crack?