UKBouldering.com

Lists: UK Crack climbs by size E4-E8 (Read 21984 times)

webbo

Online
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5030
  • Karma: +141/-13
Quad crack E4  :o that's some grade creep Austin HVS.

webbo

Online
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5030
  • Karma: +141/-13
Constable overhang at Wilton.

Will Hunt

Online
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Superworm is super-long
  • Posts: 8005
  • Karma: +633/-115
    • Unknown Stones
Quad crack E4  :o that's some grade creep Austin HVS.

It's on UKC at E3 but I'm sure it was E4 in the old definitive.

Johnny Brown

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 11440
  • Karma: +691/-22
There are less than I thought  :(

That's cos you've hardly got any on there  ;)


And totally ignored mine and others' contributions.

haydn jones

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1048
  • Karma: +95/-2
Just did mean streak at stennis that's an ace e5 fingers.

Tommy

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 814
  • Karma: +97/-1
Beat Surrender, Pembroke - 5.12 thin fingers laybacking
The Pit and the Pendulum, Nesscliffe - 5.11++ 45m  OW, Hands, fists
Nebuliser, Grinshill 5.12a? Perfect overhanging splitter fingers to hands

Nebuliser - I can't find this... sounds excellent.
TP&P - good call. It's like fighting up one of those sandy Czech things. Not hard, but quite emotional.

ashtond6

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 363
  • Karma: +14/-4
There are less than I thought  :(

That's cos you've hardly got any on there  ;)


And totally ignored mine and others' contributions.

Pretty sure I included all yours except the top rope. I haven't finished updating it yet.

Will Hunt

Online
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Superworm is super-long
  • Posts: 8005
  • Karma: +633/-115
    • Unknown Stones
Quark at Caley.


To suggest there aren't many crack in the UK at these grades is mental!

ashtond6

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 363
  • Karma: +14/-4
Quark at Caley.


To suggest there aren't many crack in the UK at these grades is mental!

Thanks,  will add

I mean it depends on your definition. We've named less than 50, lots of them not full cracks out of how many routes in the UK?!

andyh

Offline
  • ***
  • stalker
  • Posts: 270
  • Karma: +6/-0
Hobson Moor probably has a few but I can't remember which route is which...

Steve R

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 647
  • Karma: +53/-1
Three off the top of my head on North York Moors sandstone (good for when it's hot):

Stratagem, E5 6b at Raven's scar.  Best/easiest sequence involves a few consecutive finger jam moves - not bad for a uk crack?

Eyebrow, E6 6b at Stoupe Brow.  Belayed a freind on FA of this and still unrepeated I think.  Though it follows a crack, can't remember exactly how much crack technique is involved but I do remember it's pretty hard.

Psychosis, E4 6a at Smuggler's Terrace.  Haven't been on this one but looks very good and very much a finger crack:
https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=230824#photos

Will Hunt

Online
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Superworm is super-long
  • Posts: 8005
  • Karma: +633/-115
    • Unknown Stones
Quark at Caley.


To suggest there aren't many crack in the UK at these grades is mental!

Thanks,  will add

I mean it depends on your definition. We've named less than 50, lots of them not full cracks out of how many routes in the UK?!

These are just the ones that have sprung to people's minds so far - i.e. the classics. In the most obvious locations. And it's not even complete!

Nobody's mentioned the slate yet. What about The Mau Mau (E4)? Does it count if you tend to layback it? I bet there's loads more.

petejh

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5785
  • Karma: +623/-36
Gideon Quarry:
Liquid Armbar E4
Mancer Direct E3
Cracking Up E2

Lost World:
Black Gates E1
Dinowrwig Unconquerable E3
Young Man Afraid of Horses E5
Josy Puss E5


dunnyg

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1523
  • Karma: +91/-7
Some that haven't been mentioned yet:

De Produndis - flaystones E5 - Horizontal hand crack to wide (I believe, not been there yet!)
True grit - brimham - E4 - fingers(?)
Iron fist - Limekilns - E5 - Cant remember what size but my notes mention finger locks and fist jams on the crux (for me). I never ticked it!

ashtond6

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 363
  • Karma: +14/-4

Fingers
Fingerlicker E4 11b 
Coventry Street E4 11d
London Wall E5 12a
Bob Hope E4 11c
Calamity Crack E4
High Street E4
Wellington Crack E4
Milky Way E6 pumpy
Goosey goosey gander E5
Reticent Mass Murder E5 short and bouldery
Atomic Hot Rod E5
Behemoth E5
Beat Surrender E5 5.12
True Grit E4
Quark E4
Psychosis E4
Stratagem E5
Gable End E4
Mean Streak E5
Constable Overhang E5


Hands
Harvest E4
Zippatrocity 7B+ 8a. Boulder
Our Forte E5 - pumpy hands
Stone Wings E5 7a+
Pit & The Pendulum E6 5.11d
Horizontal Places E8
Cobalt Dream E5
Josy Puss E5
Iron Fist E5
Manatese E4
The Mau Mau E4
Moughton Mauler E4
Genesis E5
Eavestone Crack E4
30 seconds over winterland E5
Relax & Swing E5
Stone Wings E5


Offwidth
Gigglin' E6
Fear of Infection E4
Ramshaw Crack E4
Melvin Bragg 7B
Goliath E5 - E6 if LH side in and no face holds. Hard E5 if RH in and no face holds. 
De Profundis - E5
Liquid Armbar E4
Sacrificial Crack E4


Few more added in, some great ideas! Can't believe I missed the slate.
Thanks all!

Johnny Brown

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 11440
  • Karma: +691/-22

Nebuliser - I can't find this... sounds excellent.
TP&P - good call. It's like fighting up one of those sandy Czech things. Not hard, but quite emotional.

Nebuliser might be a bit easy for you Tom, but it's a real treat to stumble across. One of the best in the county. I can't think of anything comparable on grit.

reeve

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 435
  • Karma: +81/-1
Nobody's mentioned the slate yet. What about The Mau Mau (E4)? Does it count if you tend to layback it? I bet there's loads more.

To my mind the Mau Mau is more like laybacking a flake than climbing a crack, but you have reminded me of The Wow Wow, which is fairly pure slate crack climbing, tips to fingers to hands. Tough E4, so maybe athletic 5.11?

dave

  • Guest
Does Gin Palace count as a crack?

webbo

Online
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5030
  • Karma: +141/-13
Moughton Mauler at Moughton Nab. E4 roof crack on lime.
Quad Crack at Attermire. Really good looking E4 splitter.
Eavestone Crack and Genesis at Eavestone.

Sacrificial Crack (E4) on the Napes. The Vikings is only E3 but is worth putting on just for the photo in the old guide of the bloke doing a one arm hang off a fist jam.
Is the bulk of Incantations in a crack?
Genesis is not really crack climbing, more pulling on slopers and laybacking.
What does Neb direct at Tremadoc get these days, thin hands over a roof.

Bonjoy

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Leafy gent
  • Posts: 9934
  • Karma: +561/-8

Our Forte E5 - pumpy bugger. Looks like HVS, which sets you up for a good sandbag

I'll just translate that for folk who didn't see how hard you had to try on this route.... the week before you set of to America to climbing the worlds hardest crack!
It's hard E6. A good line but exceedingly sandy. Maybe E5 if you spent a day or two cleaning the sand off.   :thumbsup:

tc

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 861
  • Karma: +73/-1
Requiem at Dumbarton?
Giggling Crack at Brimham?
« Last Edit: July 19, 2017, 01:01:47 pm by tc »

andy popp

Online
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5539
  • Karma: +347/-5
Crumpet Crack at Helsby is only E3 but provides a very good if short-lived tussle.

Probes

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Wood Abuser
  • Posts: 1068
  • Karma: +46/-2
    • Crusher Holds
Lancashirecentric..

Run wild, run free E6 6b (brilliant ballsy 7c climbing)
Ego trip E5 6b
KP E6 6b (better than London Wall)
Gigantic E8 6c (although only requires one hand lock, the rest is laybacked)
Lean mean fighting machine E4 (nails fingertip locks, I don't know of anyone whose os'd it)

ashtond6

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 363
  • Karma: +14/-4
Lancashirecentric..

KP E6 6b (better than London Wall)

Thanks! You've got me interested in Lancs! Plus, that is quite the claim...

Any pics of these?

davehinton

Offline
  • *
  • newbie
  • Posts: 22
  • Karma: +5/-0
Yorick's Crack (Running Hill Pits)  E5 6c? (Small fingers). But could be a lot, lot harder? Especially as it took DH multiple visits before success.

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal