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UKB Power Club Week 385 10th - 16th July 2017 (Read 2030 times)

duncan

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Well done Duma, sounds like a great trip.

Tired very quickly though, itís not ideal to have only one or two goes in you when itís a three and a half hour drive. Any suggestions? Take longer rests? Get stronger? Get fitter? Get younger?

Good work! How long did you rest before your second attempt? I've usually found that its volume/ARC/aerocap/banco resistancia which furnishes me with the most attempts per day.

Not long enough - 40 minutes? - we both had limited time at the crag.  Volume is what I've mostly training for the last 3-4 years and, as a long trad. shuffler, it shouldn't be my greatest weakness. Toby said the same though, so perhaps I should listen! I guess I need to don leather gloves and MTFU.  :whip:

Hey Duncan, are you using it a heel/toe on the crux or doing it the hard way?

I got the heel-toe when I tried it ages ago. I had a brief try this time but preferred right foot on the hold 18" below the break. Is this the hard way? I'm rather inflexible in my right hip (arthritis) which may be making the heel-toe more awkward but I'll try it again when I revisit.

Nibile

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Purchased a light / travel hangboard to take on the upcoming holiday to Tuscany..
Hey, I live in Siena!
Should you be around, I can give you the tour of the boulders bars. Oh, and if you don't want to pack the fingerboard, I can offer some training chez moi!
 ;D

Wood FT

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Quote from: duncan link=topic=28221.msg554786#msg554786 date

[quote author=Wood FT link=topic=28221.msg554751#msg554751 date=1500284016
Hey Duncan, are you using it a heel/toe on the crux or doing it the hard way?

I got the heel-toe when I tried it ages ago. I had a brief try this time but preferred right foot on the hold 18" below the break. Is this the hard way? I'm rather inflexible in my right hip (arthritis) which may be making the heel-toe more awkward but I'll try it again when I revisit.
[/quote]

I'd say that's the hard way yeah, fair enough though I guess you do twist a fair bit in it. For Reference: heel toe with both undercuts then RH all the way over to gaston the ear, match left on slopey hold next to it, bump RH to good edge, release heel toe and with LF in break slight pop for the jug.

duncan

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Thanks for the beta. Referring to the above, do you mean:

For Reference: heel toe [10] with both undercuts [9+7/8] then RH all the way over to gaston the ear [13], match left on slopey hold next to it [12], bump RH to good edge [14], release heel toe and with LF in break slight pop for the jug [16].

I did something very like that first time around.


On Saturday I think I did this:

RH to side pull in break [9]
RF to hold 2' below [10]
LF outside on shiny smear 2' below [7]
LH to triangle sidepull [11]
RH to L midnight lightning crimp [14] thumb on side of hold
LF to [7]
LH to R side of pocket - pinch [16].

Using 14 rather than 15 for the RH was a refinement over my previous sequence but getting to that point was possibly less efficient than your suggestion. 

Wood FT

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Yes exactly, Wad Point for the Empire by numbers.


psborland

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Purchased a light / travel hangboard to take on the upcoming holiday to Tuscany..
Hey, I live in Siena!
Should you be around, I can give you the tour of the boulders bars. Oh, and if you don't want to pack the fingerboard, I can offer some training chez moi!
 ;D
Cheers Nibile molto gentile ! I'll have the kids with me so I won't be able to take you up on the training, but I'll let you know if we head to Sienna, l'll certainly buy you a beer :)  We're staying near Montespertoli .

Nibile

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Hey no problem, bring the kids over, they'll keep our hang times!
Just kidding.
 ;D

tomtom

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Good to bump into Measles23 at Rubicon earlier (hello!) and Murph pitched up for his first time on rock in 10 months or so! Excellent.

Steve R

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Mon -
Tue -
Wed - Few hours at Torbyran with Toby D repeating 6c - 7a+, good fun but disappointed his titanium plate isn't showing a la Terminator, alas just a full head of hippy length hair. Evening at Long Quarry Point DWS, climbed 'Arapilies, Oh Arapilies 7a+' second go but couldn't get past crux throw on 'Once a Dogger' 7b+. Great fun.
Thu -
Fri -
Sat - Long Quarry Point, Fell off the high crux of 'Blue Planet' 7b+ (Fantastic!) and then off the very last move of Once a Dogger, just got a bit too excited and let the barn door swing open.
Sun - Berry Head, Rainbow bridge area gopping so went to the quarry and climbed 'MC Navigator' 7a+, a *** leaning prow. A seal popped up while we were climbing and scared the life out of me.

I love how, every week, your 'training' log is essentially 'I went climbing on Wednesday and both days at the weekend'.  Not a criticism, seems to be working alright -  The 'Van Gnu' protocol.

Wood FT

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Mon -
Tue -
Wed - Few hours at Torbyran with Toby D repeating 6c - 7a+, good fun but disappointed his titanium plate isn't showing a la Terminator, alas just a full head of hippy length hair. Evening at Long Quarry Point DWS, climbed 'Arapilies, Oh Arapilies 7a+' second go but couldn't get past crux throw on 'Once a Dogger' 7b+. Great fun.
Thu -
Fri -
Sat - Long Quarry Point, Fell off the high crux of 'Blue Planet' 7b+ (Fantastic!) and then off the very last move of Once a Dogger, just got a bit too excited and let the barn door swing open.
Sun - Berry Head, Rainbow bridge area gopping so went to the quarry and climbed 'MC Navigator' 7a+, a *** leaning prow. A seal popped up while we were climbing and scared the life out of me.

I love how, every week, your 'training' log is essentially 'I went climbing on Wednesday and both days at the weekend'.  Not a criticism, seems to be working alright -  The 'Van Gnu' protocol.

I do intend to train and joining in on here was supposed to
encourage this desire, I just keep getting caught out by the actual climbing malarkey. Admittedly the remaining four days are free from any fingerboarding etc. Your post is the social pressure I probably need (and lack down here)

Also, f u Rammers

Dan Cheetham

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Does that mean you'll be reporting a week of 'ancap and repeaters' Guy?  :whip:

Wood FT

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Obvs, handicapped repeaters coming up...

measles23

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Good to bump into Measles23 at Rubicon earlier (hello!) and Murph pitched up for his first time on rock in 10 months or so! Excellent.

Tomtom was taking his cat for a walk  :shrug:

I forgave him cos he makes for an excellent crag fluffer

Murph was in breach of etiquette by actually climbing things..

tomtom

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I'll post up some more cat footage in next weeks power club. In the meantime if you know of anyone living near Rubicon who's lost a white cat with black and ginger splodges...

Update: apparently it lives/belongs to the brewstop/castle house...
« Last Edit: July 18, 2017, 09:05:26 pm by tomtom »

seankenny

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Purchased a light / travel hangboard to take on the upcoming holiday to Tuscany.. Just got to sneak it in the case now  ;D

https://www.flickr.com/photos/148948165@N03/shares/Ar6o68

I'm impressed with the quality of it .

Did you buy it from somewhere in the UK or direct from the States?

shark

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11.4

M. PM Foundry Wave. 2hrs. Did Green and Black spots on left in two halves but didn't link.

T.  Eve. Had hoped to climb at Avon in evening but it rained all day. Went drinking with Nick in Bristol

W. Pembroke. Not been for 20 or so years. Range closed. Beautiful day. First trad climbing for 9 months. Between us we did 6 routes at St Govans; the Arrow E1, War Crime E2, Still Hungover 2000 E2, Deranged E2, Ricochet E2 and Deranged E2. Great to get that level of volume in. Felt nostalgic. Unfortunately I got a blister on top of my little toe and this got increasingly bloodied and painful as the day progressed. 

T. Pembroke. Another beautiful day. Range still closed. Warmed up on Vice is Nice E2 and Clean Hands Blues Band E2. Manned up and got on Poisoned Arrow E4. Quite traumatic and got pumped placing gear and nearly bottled out but went for it in the end and pulled  off the onsight. Nick then dispatched Get Some In E5 and despite being tired and having to deal with 3 cold welded wires I managed to follow it clean. Also managed to lead Depraved E2 after.

F. Pembroke. Big ambitions in the pub. Abbed into Trevellan and warmed up on Enter the Goat E2. I then led Sunlover E3 which I had done before and managed clean but got scared and pumped. Didntlike the proximity of the boulder that has been washed close to the cliff even though the start is now easier as a consequence. Both tired. Nicks feet also hurting so we decided to head back early.

S.

S. PM Fingerboard. Switched to weighted max hangs full crimp and drag. Reasonable scores.

Keen to keep my hand in on trad now.       

« Last Edit: July 19, 2017, 08:56:52 pm by shark »

psborland

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Purchased a light / travel hangboard to take on the upcoming holiday to Tuscany.. Just got to sneak it in the case now  ;D

https://www.flickr.com/photos/148948165@N03/shares/Ar6o68

I'm impressed with the quality of it .

Did you buy it from somewhere in the UK or direct from the States?
From the UK, overhang climbing : https://www.overhangclimbing.com/

I'd never heard of them before but it arrived the next day so pretty good .

tomtom

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Purchased a light / travel hangboard to take on the upcoming holiday to Tuscany.. Just got to sneak it in the case now  ;D

https://www.flickr.com/photos/148948165@N03/shares/Ar6o68

I'm impressed with the quality of it .

Did you buy it from somewhere in the UK or direct from the States?
From the UK, overhang climbing : https://www.overhangclimbing.com/

I'd never heard of them before but it arrived the next day so pretty good .

If I were the beastmaker folk I might be a tad annoyed about this product (they sell not make I'll add). Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery etc...


dave

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That looks shit.

moose

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Looks like an 80's "Ghetto Blaster" made by an Ewok

psborland

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At £155 for the ghetto blaster I don't think beastmakers will be too worried !
All the kraxlboard stuff looks like expensive overkill

oracle

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 Looks good I'd have one wouldn't pay that price though

tommytwotone

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Goal: get fit enough to do Font 7anything


M: down in Cambridge, managed to fit in 100 reps including pullups / knee tucks on chinup rig in mate's garage
T: long drive back from Cambridge, 100 reps last thing before bed
W: gym on lunch, 200 reps...then works Summer BBQ party
T: hungover / coming down with bug I'd picked up from Una, did 100 reps in the evening though
F: 100 reps
S: 100 reps
S: Widdop - first day out in ages. Bit too warm, not enough breeze. Terrible session, just ended up getting spat off Pickpocket's Wall (6a!) over and over. Went home in a huff. 100 reps in the evening.


Happy to be keeping up the 100 rep thing, seems to be slightly changing my physique / keeping the late 30's spread at bay.