[tomtom]

Greetings.

M: Work hard - finalising grant proposal... lots of chasing people up for things

Tu: Stressful morning led to submission of said proposal - then I pissed off to the Depot for 90 min or so. Managed to flash two purples - and worked a few more. Felt quite good about myself

We: Felt like shit. Had to go over to Hull and back in the day - a day where I got by on basic function mode...

Th: MrsTT & TTjnr went off to London for a few days in the morning... Taking full advantage of some time off, I went to Conies Dale. Not really sure what I did, but felt good - worked quite hard on a new 7B Conie Airbones - finding two completely different ways to do it - but not being able to do either way from start to finish. Gassed out - went home. Typical.

Fr: First lie in for ages.... until bastard cat (thats now his name) woke me up wanting his breakfast... Kind of did work - faffed about - decided to get out again in the evening so went up to Brownstones for a midgy 90 min or so in the evening... climbed fairly poorly, but discovered "ridiculous eliminate" for the first time (7A+) which I couldn't do - but gave me something to work on in the future..

Wondered why there were police cars at the end of the road when I returned - and sadly one of our neighbours killed herself during the day. Her husband came home to find her... Grim news.

Sa: Hull and back.. (open day) left late after offering assistance to neighbour

Su: Only had the morning as due to pick up MrsTT and child from the station at some point (they're still not here...) so got out early to Rubicon. I nearly turned back twice as the weather looked so shit - but amazingly once I got to Litton it cleared and only the odd spot of drizzle. So first Rubicon visit this year... went OK. Felt OK on ABS direct - and felt fairly decent on Kudos (both 'projects').. left after 80-90 min when my fingers started to hurt...

Also bought a 4k go-pro clone for £40 on an amazon prime special...  came with loads of mounts/cases etc.. anyway here's my test film - not completlely sure about the camera quality, but seems OK. Maybe a bit too wide angle...

[Wood FT]

Cheers Tom, Video looks good (also looks to be a high frame rate, 60fps maybe? So that's good for smooth slo-mo as is the fashion nowadays)

STG: Cider Soak, 8a. DWS Blue Planet 7b+
MTG: Patpence, 8a+
LTG: 8b

Mon -
Tue -
Wed - Few hours at Torbyran with Toby D repeating 6c - 7a+, good fun but disappointed his titanium plate isn't showing a la Terminator, alas just a full head of hippy length hair. Evening at Long Quarry Point DWS, climbed 'Arapilies, Oh Arapilies 7a+' second go but couldn't get past crux throw on 'Once a Dogger' 7b+. Great fun.
Thu -
Fri -
Sat - Long Quarry Point, Fell off the high crux of 'Blue Planet' 7b+ (Fantastic!) and then off the very last move of Once a Dogger, just got a bit too excited and let the barn door swing open.
Sun - Berry Head, Rainbow bridge area gopping so went to the quarry and climbed 'MC Navigator' 7a+, a *** leaning prow. A seal popped up while we were climbing and scared the life out of me.

Have been focused on DWS as the tides have been good but looking at getting on the rope this week, feel fit but power endurance may have fallen somewhat...

[nai]

M - nowt

Tue - plans shelved due to (partner not fancying the) weather.

Wed - Moat, did Drawbridge Down second try having made a bit of a mess of my feet at the first attempt. Tried Over the Moorhens but shut down on the bouldery start. Decided to save myself for.....

Thu - Two Tier - Aberration - second try of the day I made it through the post crux traverse and had the penultimate hold (if you accept the juggy E1 finish is a given), all I had to do was stand up for the incut and it was over.  Somehow I failed to do this, the subsequent anguished wail prompted enquiries from the valley floor as to whether everything was alright.

Fri - rest

Sat - took nipper to Foundry in the afternoon, mostly belayed and spotted but did some L2s (is this set mega easy?), dabbled on some harder stuff, few laps on autobelays, etc. Nothing too taxing.

Sun - rest

[TobyD]

Monday yoga and dog walking early morning, ride round Dartmoor circa 45-50km; stupid strava failure halfway round, not sure of the exact distance
Tuesday early morning run 5.1km on trails, before rained all day. Fingerboard session in the afternoon at the excellent Boulder Bunker (cheers Matt!)
Wednesday yoga and dog walking early morning, Torbryan with Guy, 7 routes up to 7a, (thanks for putting the rope up for me Guy, and not laughing at how weak I am), bike ride round Torbay in the evening, 30km
Thursday yoga and dog walking early morning, up the fierce hill over haytor, 44km. fingerboard session late afternoon
Friday yoga and dog walking early morning, fingerboard session at the Bunker, 10 k dog walk in the afternoon
Saturday yoga and dog walking early morning met Duncan at Ansteys, empire wall traverse remembered remarkably well and felt nice and easy; 3 goes on empire, which I couldn't remember despite having done it probably more times than the traverse, didn't feel very easy at all... intended to go biking later but sat in the garden listening to the tennis instead
Sunday yoga and dog walking early morning,  bike ride over the moor, circa 45km, strava up to the same BS again

A pleasant week, great to see a few ukB people and be outside a lot. Trying and falling on the lead on empire (cheers Duncan, for the perfect belaying!) represents a significant step psychologically, now feeling much more confident, and keen to get stronger again, still a very long way to go there.

[TobyD]

Sun - Berry Head, Rainbow bridge area gopping so went to the quarry and climbed 'MC Navigator' 7a+, a *** leaning prow

Highlight of that video is the cameraman getting stung! Seriously, MC nav looks great, much less steep than I remember it looking. Iirc there are some good soloable e4s in the quarry as well.

[nai]

strava up to the same BS again

is it possibly your phone? This used to happen to me but very occassionally, one in 20 or less.  Long blackspots like the Monsal Trail tunnels would confuse it massively.  Bit of shock to be informed you've done something like 500m of ascent along that trail and back.

[T_B]

M - Max hangs. 5 x 25Kg half crimp, 1 x middle two no weight, 4 x middle two 5Kg.
T - Lunch gentle 10k run
W - PM homeboard - 1 hr. Felt strong.
T - Lunch run. PM. Er, didn't go to Conies Dale? Didn't hold slot once on Beak Forest for a second. Didn't have a generally sh*t session. Nothing to see here..
F -
S - PM homeboard 1 hour. Bit tired.
S - Run.

Last summer lime bouldering sess of the yr thankfully.
Slightly injured left hip flexor. Not great with 28k race next w/e.
Off on big trip in 8 days YYFY!

[measles23]

68.8kg
Left index mcp joint injury playing up

M- nowt
T-  raining so Stoke AW problems up to V6
W- nowt
T-  BM micro 10s max hangs open crimp 6 sets up to +30kg x 2s
     Strength Asylum:
     DL: 14 sets - repeated my previous PB of 225 and EMOM (200x1)x5 - feel strangely flat after the big moment of getting back to PB as had hoped to feel stronger on it, but was a bit of a grinder.. I've lost some weight since pre-fracture so its now a big BW PB of 3.25BW.. Still feel flat about it..
     Experimented with power cleans up to singles with 60 - fun!
F- nowt
S- BM micro 10s max hangs open crimp 6 sets up to +30kg x 1s
S- Stoke AWCC 2.5 hrs problems including a bunch of V6s

[Murph]

Morning all. Measles suggested I re-enlist here to keep myself accountable. I've been off the reservation for a while. My only real goal is to get back to 7B lime standard but it's a bit of a fantasy atm. Life gets in the way and I've been finding it easier to go out for runs than to actually put the hard work and sacrifice needed to climb a reasonable standard! Non-climbing goal of running an 18:30 5k.

67kg
M - long day
T - 15k@6:00/k run. Long day.
W - 11k@5:45. Long day.
T - 7k@4:45. Works, all pickles (4?) and 20 irn brus (4+?). Got shut down on a shouldery irn bru - actually shut down on an irn bru!
F - kettlebells simple & sinister 16kgs.
S -  11k@6:00.
S - ill

I appreciate this isn't the training log that will set the climbing world on fire and inspire a generation but there it is.

[tomtom]

About a year since I last saw you at the crag Murph - was wondering how it's all going... the white stuff is still pointy sharp and difficult

[duncan]

STG - Two power-endurance sessions per week. Don’t get injured.
MTG - E5 by end of August.
LTG - 7b+RP, LH&F tbc.

M - Pembroke (see last week)
T
W - Westway, routes to 6b+. Not firing on all cylinders.
T -
F - Drove to Quantocks for VicFest (weekend glamping with 30 N. London media types and their offspring. Not my usual style but people were lovely and I really enjoyed it).
S - Bunked off to Anstey’s. Met Toby, good atmosphere with folk happy to see him back on rock. Warmed-up and worked Empire. Had a ‘see how far I get’ attempt (tickling the pocket). Nothing left in the tank when I tried it again. Made pizzas for 60 and drank craft ales courtesy of the owners of The Southampton Arms. 
S - Hearty hike on Quantocks. Found feral child. Drove home.

Bonus half day outside. Great to see Toby back in action after everything he’s been through. Encouraged by how I felt on Empire. Doing it in sections felt steady. This is how it should be but a big improvement on previous efforts. Good vibes help, I’m sensitive to this, but I’m also a bit stronger. Must make time for a trip or two to Anstey’s this autumn. Tired very quickly though, it’s not ideal to have only one or two goes in you when it’s a three and a half hour drive. Any suggestions? Take longer rests? Get stronger? Get fitter? Get younger?

Plan: PE work, avoid injury before Font. trip.

[measles23]

kettlebells simple & sinister 16kgs

wtf are sinister kettlebells?? They sound cool!

[Nibile]

Measles,
jusging by the time of your runs, you've got more than enough time for climbing specific training. I think that the issue could mostly be motivational, therefore I will give you following motivational tip: MAN THE FUCK UP AND GET ON THE FINGERBOARD.
For it to work at best, you have to imagine that I'm shouting at you with a firm voice, and a smug and judgemental look in my eyes.
HTH.

[csl]

Tired very quickly though, it’s not ideal to have only one or two goes in you when it’s a three and a half hour drive. Any suggestions? Take longer rests? Get stronger? Get fitter? Get younger?

Good work! How long did you rest before your second attempt? I've usually found that its volume/ARC/aerocap/banco resistancia which furnishes me with the most attempts per day.

[Wood FT]

Hey Duncan, are you using it a heel/toe on the crux or doing it the hard way?

[measles23]

Measles,
jusging by the time of your runs, you've got more than enough time for climbing specific training

Dude I hope you're referring to that lazy fucker murph, not me - I don't run no place! Certainly agree he needs the mofo sergeant major shouting in his ear tho..

PS nibs you do lots of Oly lifting type exercises - I really enjoyed a bit of power cleans this week - any advice/beta?

[Duma]

Goals:
8A   , 8b
In shape for SA in summer.  

Body Audit: Left Shoulder sore since middle of first week in SA, seemed to be able to climb on it ok but definitley impinged now. Physio on Weds - see below.
Sleep: OK.
70kg.

M: Nothing - got in to Heathrow 0615, straight on train to work. Knackered, but much better than coming back from rocklands a day early. (~8.5hrs, 0dk)
T: Attempted the wall after work, few 6's but nothing of note. Shoulder hurt so sacked it. (7hrs, 0dk)
W: Nothing. Saw Physio in eve - https://dannybrownphysio.com/ - was very good, seemed to get straight to the issue, lots of exercises to address weakness in  subscapularis and serratus anterior - basically my scapulas wing like fuck.(~7hrs, 0dk)
T: TCA, lots of shoulder rehab stuff, plus a bimble round the reds (low 6's) (~7hrs, 4dk)
F: Nothing. (~8hrs, 0dk)
S: Nothing. (~6hrs, 3dk)
S: Nothing. took daughter to redpoint, she toproped a 6a and 6a+ clean, very proud. (~5hrs, 0dk)

Bit late, but quick SA review.
Fuck me it's amazing - if you can, go.
Really happy with how I climbed, and how much I got done, pretty much all I could ask for (apart from 2 weeks obviously not being long enough for such a long/expensive flight).
Climbed on 12 days in a 2 week holiday. Doing less per day in the second week def felt like it worked better than trying to cram loads into 1 or 2 days, then resting.
The Hatchling is a truly brilliant bit of rock, suited me very well, only just caught all the hard moves on the successful go so was very satisfying. Less than 10 goes, and to be honest was probably no harder (for me) than previous hardest things I've done though.
That said, Out of Balance definitely is the hardest thing I've done, and felt like a step up. Took a bunch more effort too - think I did Question of Balance (the 7B that climbs the first part) 16 times in a row while working it...
Quality of the lines in general, and through the grade range, is amazing! Lots of my favourite problems were mid 6's, and Walk in the Park (a 3 behind Caroline) was one of the stand outs!

[Nibile]

Measles,
jusging by the time of your runs, you've got more than enough time for climbing specific training

Dude I hope you're referring to that lazy fucker murph, not me - I don't run no place! Certainly agree he needs the mofo sergeant major shouting in his ear tho..

Ahahaha sorry man! I need a vacation surely.
P.s. Congrats for being back to your deadlifting PB! 3,25 BW is amazing!

[Coops_13]

STG: Get stronger to:
MTG: 7C (end of year)
LTG: 8A

M: HIIT workout
T: Indoors, good session. Did 1-4-7 big rungs again. Did 1-5-7 right first, failed left (weak lock-off on left arm...). Tried 1-4-7 on mid-rungs, close... Did sit project on the 55, fingers screaming. Psyched.
W:
T: Work do canned the indoor session...
F: Drive to Wales
S: Parisella's, horridly humid connies. Almost did Clever Beaver 7A+ but kept pinging off slopers for final throw. Almost did Bust Lip 7A+, painful fingers. Did Burning Sphincter 6C at Breck Road as consolation. Went to GOP. So close to Blokesmoker 7A+, LH pinging off crimp while trying to hold swing. Psyched I was able to pull on and launch off such minging crimps. Tried E Honda 7B at end but fingers knackered by then...
S: Pantymwyn. Did Firestarter 7A after a fair bit off effort, that thing is hard... Did Singed Possum 7A, a traverse into a 6C+ which went more easily. Tried to pull on Pantys Down 7A+ but too spent so went home via a few coffee stops.

Wanted to get on Bus Stop to finish it off this weekend but weather didn't play ball. Spent the weekend getting spanked by Welsh Lime instead, weaker than I thought I was

[36chambers]

STG: get stronger.

M:
T: Indoors. New RH one-arm BM2K smallest edge PB, 4.3 seconds. 5 seconds feels close. Fighting the twist seems like the hardest part, which is not an issue on the low middle rung. Set projects on the boards to mimic various hard Welsh classics. Big psyche in the board room.
W: full body workout
T: Cliff. Some new overlooked low 7s. Close to doing the crux on Matt's Roof 7B+, but a sharp pebble on the finishing jug took a chunk out of my finger. Great problem otherwise.
F:
S: Taking apart our bathroom. DIY experience points.
S: Anston stones. Great day out. Didn't tick anything, but I now have 4 problems that will go. Close to getting the heel to work on Dark Art. Think it'll be fine once my LH ring finger gets back to full strength.

Body audit. Left shoulder appears to be fine now \o/. Ulnar nerves in forearms are not as bad as they've been, but still not great. LH ring finger needs some TLC, but still climbable.

[36chambers]

Goals:
8A   , 8b
In shape for SA in summer.

8A!!!  
Sounds like a mega Rocklands trip (I'm only a little jealous), good work!

[Nibile]

PS nibs you do lots of Oly lifting type exercises - I really enjoyed a bit of power cleans this week - any advice/beta?

Hmmm... I'd say the most importatnt thing is probably to keep reps low. I've done big sets sometimes, but in the end you always end up losing form. If I want to use Oly lifts for some kind of conditioning I prefer EMOM sets of five reps.
Another thing that proved to be crucial is using straps. It really changed the game in terms of intensity, and it limited the lifting influence on climbing specific training. Moreover, I can't drop the bar and having straps makes the negative phase much safer, especially when lowering the bar from overhead.
I like to focus on speed and explosiveness.
I do the following variations:
Clean, clean and press, snatch high pulls, muscle snatch.
I do all of them from hanging at the knees, not from the ground, because it's very very difficult to keep the transition from over the knees to the hips smooth and with a fast acceleration. Lifting from the knees is more explosive and much less technique dependant.
HTH.

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - light deadlifting 88 kg x 18, x 12. Explosive pull ups. Torrid. 
Tue - rest.
Wed - clean and press 46 kg x 5 + explosive pull ups + 10 kg x 5 all x 6. Brilliant. Dumbbell complex 1'/1' x 5. 
Thu - shoulder raises 5 x 3; bicep curls 10 x 3 ; snatch pull 5" pause 5 x 6; shoulder carry 30" x 4.
Fri - ab wheel + 8 kg x 100 monster set. Dumbbell complex 15 x 4.
Sat - rest. Kind of, spent the afternoon riding on track.
Sun - rest. Wrecked. Still DOMS from the ab wheel. Triceps exploded.

Managed to do something despite temps up to 37 degrees. Tried to touch the board with terrible results, two flappers in three moves. The holds were boiling. Lots of work committments and stress.

[Murph]

Tomtom- aye, about a year now. I was having a good few weeks back then too and remember those times fondly. That one where you have to jump was a good laugh. Good to see you're still going well.

Measles - simple and sinister is the name of Pavel's kettlebell routine. It's very straightforward. 10 sets of 10 one handed swings and 10 get ups in the space of 16 minutes including rests. The "simple" standard is to do this with a 32kg 'bell - something that is "easily achievable by anyone". The "sinister" standard is to do that with a 48! Strong work on your 3.25 btw - an inspiration.

Nibs - I thank you for your kind words of encouragement. Things to do: MTFU

It's good to be back.

[psborland]

M. Redpoint Birmingham. repeating long steep boulders in the 'pit' rest 2:1. 2X10 mins aero on auto belays 6b+.

T. tired  core b.1 x1 round

W. Hangboard max hangs added weight to 3 finger half crimp and 4 finger half crimp. Deadlift to 3x110Kg
Th.
F Sa. Decorating ..meh

Su. Dinbren easy day

Purchased a light / travel hangboard to take on the upcoming holiday to Tuscany.. Just got to sneak it in the case now 

https://www.flickr.com/photos/148948165@N03/shares/Ar6o68

I'm impressed with the quality of it .

[duncan]

Well done Duma, sounds like a great trip.

Tired very quickly though, it’s not ideal to have only one or two goes in you when it’s a three and a half hour drive. Any suggestions? Take longer rests? Get stronger? Get fitter? Get younger?

Good work! How long did you rest before your second attempt? I've usually found that its volume/ARC/aerocap/banco resistancia which furnishes me with the most attempts per day.

Not long enough - 40 minutes? - we both had limited time at the crag.  Volume is what I've mostly training for the last 3-4 years and, as a long trad. shuffler, it shouldn't be my greatest weakness. Toby said the same though, so perhaps I should listen! I guess I need to don leather gloves and MTFU. 

Hey Duncan, are you using it a heel/toe on the crux or doing it the hard way?

I got the heel-toe when I tried it ages ago. I had a brief try this time but preferred right foot on the hold 18" below the break. Is this the hard way? I'm rather inflexible in my right hip (arthritis) which may be making the heel-toe more awkward but I'll try it again when I revisit.

[Nibile]

Purchased a light / travel hangboard to take on the upcoming holiday to Tuscany..

Hey, I live in Siena!
Should you be around, I can give you the tour of the boulders bars. Oh, and if you don't want to pack the fingerboard, I can offer some training chez moi!
 

[Wood FT]

Hey Duncan, are you using it a heel/toe on the crux or doing it the hard way?

I got the heel-toe when I tried it ages ago. I had a brief try this time but preferred right foot on the hold 18" below the break. Is this the hard way? I'm rather inflexible in my right hip (arthritis) which may be making the heel-toe more awkward but I'll try it again when I revisit.
[/quote]

I'd say that's the hard way yeah, fair enough though I guess you do twist a fair bit in it. For Reference: heel toe with both undercuts then RH all the way over to gaston the ear, match left on slopey hold next to it, bump RH to good edge, release heel toe and with LF in break slight pop for the jug.

[duncan]

Thanks for the beta. Referring to the above, do you mean:

For Reference: heel toe [10] with both undercuts [9+7/8] then RH all the way over to gaston the ear [13], match left on slopey hold next to it [12], bump RH to good edge [14], release heel toe and with LF in break slight pop for the jug [16].

I did something very like that first time around.


On Saturday I think I did this:

RH to side pull in break [9]
RF to hold 2' below [10]
LF outside on shiny smear 2' below [7]
LH to triangle sidepull [11]
RH to L midnight lightning crimp [14] thumb on side of hold
LF to [7]
LH to R side of pocket - pinch [16].

Using 14 rather than 15 for the RH was a refinement over my previous sequence but getting to that point was possibly less efficient than your suggestion. 

[Wood FT]

Yes exactly, Wad Point for the Empire by numbers.

[psborland]

Purchased a light / travel hangboard to take on the upcoming holiday to Tuscany..

Hey, I live in Siena!
Should you be around, I can give you the tour of the boulders bars. Oh, and if you don't want to pack the fingerboard, I can offer some training chez moi!
 

Cheers Nibile molto gentile ! I'll have the kids with me so I won't be able to take you up on the training, but I'll let you know if we head to Sienna, l'll certainly buy you a beer   We're staying near Montespertoli .

[Nibile]

Hey no problem, bring the kids over, they'll keep our hang times!
Just kidding.
 

[tomtom]

Good to bump into Measles23 at Rubicon earlier (hello!) and Murph pitched up for his first time on rock in 10 months or so! Excellent.

[Steve R]

Mon -
Tue -
Wed - Few hours at Torbyran with Toby D repeating 6c - 7a+, good fun but disappointed his titanium plate isn't showing a la Terminator, alas just a full head of hippy length hair. Evening at Long Quarry Point DWS, climbed 'Arapilies, Oh Arapilies 7a+' second go but couldn't get past crux throw on 'Once a Dogger' 7b+. Great fun.
Thu -
Fri -
Sat - Long Quarry Point, Fell off the high crux of 'Blue Planet' 7b+ (Fantastic!) and then off the very last move of Once a Dogger, just got a bit too excited and let the barn door swing open.
Sun - Berry Head, Rainbow bridge area gopping so went to the quarry and climbed 'MC Navigator' 7a+, a *** leaning prow. A seal popped up while we were climbing and scared the life out of me.

I love how, every week, your 'training' log is essentially 'I went climbing on Wednesday and both days at the weekend'.  Not a criticism, seems to be working alright -  The 'Van Gnu' protocol.

[Wood FT]

Mon -
Tue -
Wed - Few hours at Torbyran with Toby D repeating 6c - 7a+, good fun but disappointed his titanium plate isn't showing a la Terminator, alas just a full head of hippy length hair. Evening at Long Quarry Point DWS, climbed 'Arapilies, Oh Arapilies 7a+' second go but couldn't get past crux throw on 'Once a Dogger' 7b+. Great fun.
Thu -
Fri -
Sat - Long Quarry Point, Fell off the high crux of 'Blue Planet' 7b+ (Fantastic!) and then off the very last move of Once a Dogger, just got a bit too excited and let the barn door swing open.
Sun - Berry Head, Rainbow bridge area gopping so went to the quarry and climbed 'MC Navigator' 7a+, a *** leaning prow. A seal popped up while we were climbing and scared the life out of me.

I love how, every week, your 'training' log is essentially 'I went climbing on Wednesday and both days at the weekend'.  Not a criticism, seems to be working alright -  The 'Van Gnu' protocol.

I do intend to train and joining in on here was supposed to
encourage this desire, I just keep getting caught out by the actual climbing malarkey. Admittedly the remaining four days are free from any fingerboarding etc. Your post is the social pressure I probably need (and lack down here)

Also, f u Rammers

[user deactivated]

Does that mean you'll be reporting a week of 'ancap and repeaters' Guy? 

[Wood FT]

Obvs, handicapped repeaters coming up...

[measles23]

Good to bump into Measles23 at Rubicon earlier (hello!) and Murph pitched up for his first time on rock in 10 months or so! Excellent.

Tomtom was taking his cat for a walk 

I forgave him cos he makes for an excellent crag fluffer

Murph was in breach of etiquette by actually climbing things..

[tomtom]

I'll post up some more cat footage in next weeks power club. In the meantime if you know of anyone living near Rubicon who's lost a white cat with black and ginger splodges...

Update: apparently it lives/belongs to the brewstop/castle house...

[seankenny]

Purchased a light / travel hangboard to take on the upcoming holiday to Tuscany.. Just got to sneak it in the case now 

https://www.flickr.com/photos/148948165@N03/shares/Ar6o68

I'm impressed with the quality of it .

Did you buy it from somewhere in the UK or direct from the States?

[shark]

11.4

M. PM Foundry Wave. 2hrs. Did Green and Black spots on left in two halves but didn't link.

T.  Eve. Had hoped to climb at Avon in evening but it rained all day. Went drinking with Nick in Bristol

W. Pembroke. Not been for 20 or so years. Range closed. Beautiful day. First trad climbing for 9 months. Between us we did 6 routes at St Govans; the Arrow E1, War Crime E2, Still Hungover 2000 E2, Deranged E2, Ricochet E2 and Deranged E2. Great to get that level of volume in. Felt nostalgic. Unfortunately I got a blister on top of my little toe and this got increasingly bloodied and painful as the day progressed. 

T. Pembroke. Another beautiful day. Range still closed. Warmed up on Vice is Nice E2 and Clean Hands Blues Band E2. Manned up and got on Poisoned Arrow E4. Quite traumatic and got pumped placing gear and nearly bottled out but went for it in the end and pulled  off the onsight. Nick then dispatched Get Some In E5 and despite being tired and having to deal with 3 cold welded wires I managed to follow it clean. Also managed to lead Depraved E2 after.

F. Pembroke. Big ambitions in the pub. Abbed into Trevellan and warmed up on Enter the Goat E2. I then led Sunlover E3 which I had done before and managed clean but got scared and pumped. Didntlike the proximity of the boulder that has been washed close to the cliff even though the start is now easier as a consequence. Both tired. Nicks feet also hurting so we decided to head back early.

S.

S. PM Fingerboard. Switched to weighted max hangs full crimp and drag. Reasonable scores.

Keen to keep my hand in on trad now.       

[psborland]

Purchased a light / travel hangboard to take on the upcoming holiday to Tuscany.. Just got to sneak it in the case now 

https://www.flickr.com/photos/148948165@N03/shares/Ar6o68

I'm impressed with the quality of it .

Did you buy it from somewhere in the UK or direct from the States?

From the UK, overhang climbing : https://www.overhangclimbing.com/

I'd never heard of them before but it arrived the next day so pretty good .

[tomtom]

Purchased a light / travel hangboard to take on the upcoming holiday to Tuscany.. Just got to sneak it in the case now 

https://www.flickr.com/photos/148948165@N03/shares/Ar6o68

I'm impressed with the quality of it .

Did you buy it from somewhere in the UK or direct from the States?

From the UK, overhang climbing : https://www.overhangclimbing.com/

I'd never heard of them before but it arrived the next day so pretty good .

If I were the beastmaker folk I might be a tad annoyed about this product (they sell not make I'll add). Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery etc...

[dave]

That looks shit.

[moose]

Looks like an 80's "Ghetto Blaster" made by an Ewok

[psborland]

At £155 for the ghetto blaster I don't think beastmakers will be too worried !
All the kraxlboard stuff looks like expensive overkill

[Whyatt]

 Looks good I'd have one wouldn't pay that price though

[tommytwotone]

Goal: get fit enough to do Font 7anything


M: down in Cambridge, managed to fit in 100 reps including pullups / knee tucks on chinup rig in mate's garage
T: long drive back from Cambridge, 100 reps last thing before bed
W: gym on lunch, 200 reps...then works Summer BBQ party
T: hungover / coming down with bug I'd picked up from Una, did 100 reps in the evening though
F: 100 reps
S: 100 reps
S: Widdop - first day out in ages. Bit too warm, not enough breeze. Terrible session, just ended up getting spat off Pickpocket's Wall (6a!) over and over. Went home in a huff. 100 reps in the evening.


Happy to be keeping up the 100 rep thing, seems to be slightly changing my physique / keeping the late 30's spread at bay.