[Coops_13]

STG: Keep training and crushing so I can do:
MTG: 7C

M:
T: Indoors, good session. Got 1-4-7 again. PB on muscle-ups. Good work on the 55 board. Some max hangs (one arm c. 4 sec max) in the middle of session upon advice of 36C, solid.
W: HIIT session, tough...
T: Indoors, stupidly hot. Poor session, did the max hangs again though fingers starting to feel tweaky
F:
S: Portland. Battleship beach, wanted to try Crossfire 7B+ but was v wet with condensation. Most of the other things wet but managed to scrape my way up The Flake, 7A with some weird heel cross-through beta:

Then went to Southwell Landslips and thoroughly failed on the Terrace, 7A. Did Who's the Daddy, 7A at the end.
S: Portland doing some easy sport with my sister, relaxing day out.

Middle fingers are a bit tweaky from the max hangs. Will give them a rest this week...

[shark]

Thanks coops

11.3-5

M. Eve. Depot circuit board. Pottered about

T.

W. Eve Fingerboard

T.

F. Am Conies Dale. Out with Ben and met Dolly and Plattsy. Nice temp. Main event was trying Conie Ferrino 7B which they had been on before. Tomtom arrived with more beta. Ben eschewed the suggested heel toe trickery and intermediates and sent it with style - his first 7B, and in a session. Plattsy and Dolly. I got it under pressure using every trick in the book. Tomtom then did it ignoring the foothold he demanded I used. Team tick. Went on Conie Island Elephant which Plattsy did straight off and Dolly did eventually but the rest of us failed on.

S. PM One lift. No warm-up. Showing off to my dad. Deadlift PB (155kg). Eve BBQ. Much wine

S.

Few days at Pembroke next week in I don't know how many years

[TobyD]

Cheers guys. Coops, that actually looks like a pretty reasonable problem for Dorset?
Mon turbo AM; wave L2 circuit plus 5 L1 30 minutes. 60 min trying L3 or 2 harder L2s. 5xL2 on the min.
Tue turbo AM; run along Froggatt and Curbar in the evening 7.4km
Wed turbo AM; Foundry wave session, repeaters, 3 goes on 7b.
Thu turbo AM; foundry routes with Sarah M. Very tired from repeaters Wednesday, ineffective physically but second leading session required inside before leading sport outside. Took a few unanticipated falls, best thing about the session as it reassures me I haven't forgotten how to, and sometimes sort of enjoy the experience.
Fri Turbo Am. Run froggatt to curbar return in new trail shoes, should have stuck to the road flats it was a lot quicker in them the week before, though oddly felt faster in trail shoes
Sat turbo am, cornice day with Reeve. Great fun and felt much easier than I expected, best effort TR ing bored of the lies with 2 hangs first one as I went off the line. Did majority of the 7as to the left.
Sun turbo am, quick wave session and a few routes before driving to devon for the week.

[T_B]

M - Lunch: Foundry board up problems. PM: ran home.
T -
W - Lunch: F/board. First max hangs sess since March. 1 x 10Kg half crimp, 5 x 20kg half crimp (2 mins 30 secs rest), 4 x middle two pockets no weight. Held the new Beastmaker 10mm edge with 30kg (114kg inc bodyweight). A few goes on up problems on the board.
T - Lunch: Wave. Better than last week and nearly as good as a few wks ago. PM. Longish run.
F - F/board. 1 x 15kg half crimp, 1 x 20kg, 3 x 25kg. 4 x middle two no weight.
S - PM: Homeboard. 1 hour sess, bit tired but felt reasonable.
S - PM: Run

Felt like a decent training wk in my bid to cram some strength training pre-trip. 25kg on half crimp is basically where I was earlier in the year. Noticeably down on middle two strength, as I was adding 10kg of weight onto those in March.
2 wks before trip and race, so tapering for running and emphasis on getting some crimp/burl power for bouldering.

[Duma]

Three weeks in one, been away... 


Week 382


M, T, W, T - TCA once, Rockstars in Swindon once.

F - work, then train to airport,  fly overnight. Slept ok.

S - arrive Cape Town 10ish, drive to Cederberg, climbing by three. Will just paste my list for the next bit, apologies. 


Sat 24th - 8 Day Rain

8 Days Straight 6C, Finger Wall 6C+, Warm Up Arete 6C, Vanity 7A+, Humility 7B, The Ludovician 6C, Todds Sloper Problem 7A (F).


Sun 25th - De Pakhuys 

Gamelan 6B+, RSA 6B, Coal Chamber 6B+, Girl On Our Mind 6B+, Poison Dwarf 7B, Esoterrorist 7A, Directors Cunt 7A+, Sexual Etiquette 6C, Arch Baby Sit 7B, Zanzibar 7A (F), Minki 7B, Who The Fuck Is Minki 7C.


Week 383


Mon 26th - Roadside 

Un Pincon d'Herbes Arete 6C+, American Women 5, Barking at Tourists 6A, The Secret to Olives Preserve Cupboard Direct 7A (F), Creaking Heights 6C, Question of Balance 7B, The Rhino 7B+. Worked Out of Balance.


Tues 27th - Riverside 

Take Off Your Shoes 5+, Facing East 5, Bow Down 6B+, Crystal Death 6B, Juste Avant De Partir 6C+, Riverside Slab 6B, Des Claques Pour Nini 7B (F).


Weds 28th - Rest 


Thursday 29th - 8 Day Rain 

Hueco Arete 5, Hueco Wall 6B+, Tiger Wall 7A, Mud Puddles 7B, Unspace Exploration 6B+, Right Arete 6C+. Worked Golden Virginia. 


Fri 30th - Roadcrew

Silence is Golden 5, Hear No Evil 5+, One 6B, The Nine Inch Pianist 5, Tomorrow I Will Be Gone 7C, Broadside Arete 7B, When The Day Breaks 7B, Demi Lune 6C.


Sat 1st - Rest


Sun 2nd - Sassies 

Baboon Bones 5, Passing on the Knowledge 5+, Eyeing a Good Friends Girl 6A, Sweet Jesus 6A, Eyes Wired Shut 5+, Black Streak 6C, Great Escape 6C+, The Sloping Beauty 7A+ (F), Pinotage 7B+, Pinotage sit 7C+


Week 384


Mon 3rd - Teagarden & Kleinfontaine

Source of Frustration 6B, Fakir of Ipi 7A, EMF 1879 6B, Hatchling 8A.


Tues 4th - Rest


Weds 5th - Roadside 

Do It, Do It Now! 4, Basal 5, Walk in The Park 3, Squeezed 6C, Progesterone Pummelling 6C, Out of Balance 8A.


Thurs 6th - 8 Day Rain & The Coop

Chocolate Pudding 6C, Crazy Leg 7B, Distance Makes The Heart Grow Fonder 7C.


Fri 7th - De Pakhuis

Bad Boy For Life 5, Ice Ice Baby 5+, Bang Boom Bang 6B, Weichei 7C+.


Sat 8th - Fortress 

Duck Roof 6B, Cabe Town 7C, Bowling Ball 7A (F), Rambo 7B+, 6C+


Sun 9th - Fly home :'-(


Twelve climbing days, Three rest days, one day travelling (rained sunday anyway) 


Awesome. 

[Coops_13]

Cheers guys. Coops, that actually looks like a pretty reasonable problem for Dorset?

Yeah it's not bad. But the usual sweaty/condensed, dusty, loose holds also present...

[nai]

M - nowt

Tue - road closure prevented play again.
Warmed up at Rubicon then went to roadside cave 
Just the wrong side of damp for stickiness, didn't get very far on Hannibal.
Not inspired, won't be rushing back.

Wed -
back on Aberration first time in nine months.  Bit warm and still for it really.
Took a couple of burns to remember and refine the footwork.
Best redpoint reached last year's high/far point. Fell making awkward foot move like previously.
 Changed sequence to cut it out.
Skin suffered, will await more preferable conditions.

Th - Moat - did Moat People first try without too much bother.
Got on Drawbridge Down, etc., took a couple of goes to work out the fiddly moves over the bulge.
Fell off on RP at the bulge then immediately spotted a hold I'd missed although elbows were well spread.

Fr rest

Sat more rest

Sun - thought/hoped I was going to make it out but it all fell to bits.
Board and fingerboard benchmarking for a new programme having realised what I'm doing hasn't been working for a while.

[Wood FT]

Thanks Coops

STG: Cider Soak
MTG: A classic E5, 8a+
LTG: 8b

Mon -
Tue - Ansteys, briefly tried the moves on Triple Crown 8a but wasn't left inspired. Climbed Empire with the direct start at 7b+, a worthwhile bit of climbing. I'll be back for LWM but after a brief go on the Lynch getting humbled my heart is set on Cider Soak
Wed -
Thu -
Fri -
Sat - Torquay, London Bridge dws, tide quite low so just did the 6a+ a bunch of times then had a scary time on the Atheist 6b+, the combination of damp rock and low tide meant I was talking myself through the the top out. Shouldn't have done it on reflection. Met the others at Berry Head Quarry, flashed wavewalker 7a but then couldn't get through it again to get on the onto the adjacent route Gothic. Finished on a 6a+ with double fistfuls of grass too out. Gripped.

Sun - London Bridge again, flashed Love Groove Dance Party 7a+ and fell off the crux of Jehovakill 7b, 9/10 for the pencil in. Tried to get back around to get on Jehovakill and the new route 'Do! Fear the Reef' but fell off the first hard on the traverse in 4 times, frustrating. Turns out I was making it hard for myself, big bag of wet stuff.

A change of scene this weekend in terms of free time and climbing genre, although I've dws'd a fair bit I've never been really comfortable but the fact I tried and fell in more than I ever have before shows promise. Looking forward to next weekend, the evening high tides have been knackering. Must get on cider soak again.

[TobyD]

STG: Cider Soak

Must get on cider soak again.

I'm tempted on Wednesday! If I make it down in the next two days I might see how I feel on the empire warm up traverse.

The lynch is excellent. I can't remember if I jammed up it or totally avoided jamming...

[Wood FT]

STG: Cider Soak

Must get on cider soak again.

I'm tempted on Wednesday! If I make it down in the next two days I might see how I feel on the empire warm up traverse.

The lynch is excellent. I can't remember if I jammed up it or totally avoided jamming...

I don't mind on venue Toby just whichever one you feel is best, I've got plenty of time to get on cider soak.

I used at least one jam on the Lynch, brutal

[36chambers]

STG: fix finger
MTG: get stronger

M:
T: Indoors. Few max hangs on RH as LH finger still tweaky. Casual session otherwise.
W:
T:
F: The Gop. Hour of power en route to Llanberis. Managed Smoke a Bloke 7B+, E Honda 7B and Blokesmoker 7A+. Very quick play on Push the Button 7C+ but didn't have time to get properly stuck in. Keen to return.   
S: Shorts weather at Sheep Pen. Climbed all the popular low 7's, the best being The Pinch 7A+ and Gnasher 7A (which was my favourite of the day). Had a few goes on Jerry's Problem 7C+ and just about managed all but the first move, which I could tag but not quite stick. Wanted to try The Menace 8A but couldn't remember where it actually started...
S: Shorts weather at Cromlech. Climbed Lizard King 7B+/C, which is absolutely brilliant. Then got spanked on Jerry's Roof 7C trying duff beta for the throw move. The rest of the problem feels piss, I'm just unbelievably inconsistent at hitting the throw hold. Consolation tick of Johnny's Problem 7B, then 15 minutes to open my account on Diesel Power 8A whilst I waited for everyone else to return to the car. Considering my broken state I was happy to do a few moves in isolation. Ended a brilliant weekend with a big meal at Pete's Eat before driving back to Yorkshire.

I love Wales.

[nai]

Toby & Guy
How does Cider Soak climb? 
Really keen to get on it & considering coming down in a few weeks
Looks fairly sustained up to a shake then a boulder problem to the chain?  How does it break down?

[T_B]

I did it 3 yrs ago. It's classic PE. No desperate moves, but big powerful moves between decent holds at a pretty steep angle (so not like most Peak stuff). Basically like climbing a Wave level 2 or 3, then 2 x Level 3s on top of each other. A shake at 2/3rds but not really somewhere you can recover if 8a is your top grade.

Starts with a few awkward laybacky bouldery pulls into the break, then a clear crux section with a long move to an edge, then a big pull through to stab into a good pocket. Big couple of pulls to the jug. Then from there again powerful and somewhat awkward laybacky pulls into a tricky final couple of moves on pinches and flatties.

All over in a couple of minutes.

It's ace.

[Wood FT]

What TB said, it's a brilliant hard sprint.

I'm finding the awkward start moves quite hard and need to invest more time on them. 

There's a good vid of Kris Suriyo climbing it on YouTube.

Let me know if you're coming down, I'm free Wednesdays and weekends.

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - One arm hangs; shoulder raises x 6, biceps curls x 10, max speed x 3. Snatch pulls 5 x 10 EMOM. A bit disappointed by the one arm hangs. Hopefully it's just because it was 26 degrees.
Tue - rest.
Wed - explosive pull ups + 10 kg 5 x 10. EMOM cleans 5 x 10 (46, 51 kg). Fast.
Thu - deadlift! Ramped up to 128 kg x 1, then 120 x 3, 108 x 7. Perfect form. Happy. Shoulder raises, bicep curls.
Fri - rest.
Sat - mega core session. One arm ab wheel, 4 x 3. Brutal. Then standard routine + 8 kg 10" pause x 6 x 2. Didn't complete second set, was smashed. Snatch pulls with pause 5 x 5. Shoulder walk 46 kg 30" x 3 brutal. Waiter's walk 1' x 3. Excellent session in 33 degrees heat.
Sun - boxing bag, combinations. Hard.

[measles23]

69.2kg

M- nowt
T- session on Back to Black; nearly repeated 9to5 stand but felt scared working the static version of the top.. Bit greasy
W- nowt
T- BM2k small crimps open crimp pulley assist 1-arm: 9 sets up to -9kg x 5s
    Strength Asylum:
    DL: 13 sets up to FUUURGHH YAAARRR 210(3BW) x 3, ie the Triple Triple* - several more doubles and singles for a total of 10 lifts at 3BW this session; def one of my best lifting session ever...
*rider= Like some others on heavy multiples I reset between reps due to taking breath at the top and turning my toes in on the drop to avoid squashing my tootsies - what you gain from a 3 sec rest you lose from loss of momentum/groove..
   Squat: 7 sets up to singles at 110 - v slow progression with low bar
   1-armers: 4 sets up to +5 on left, +2 on right, but poor form, just not enough juice in the tank after big DL session..
F- nowt
S- quick play with new BM micros - up to +20 on the 10s but balked at +30; I do like them and will have a proper session this week..
S- Stoke AWCC kids club - 2.5 hrs up to V6 os, worked the new cave V8 which will be a good project..

[nai]

Basically like climbing a Wave level 2 or 3, then 2 x Level 3s on top of each other.

Cheers T_Beast, terms I understand. Might be a bit hard for me right now then.

There's a good vid of Kris Suriyo climbing it on YouTube.

Let me know if you're coming down, I'm free Wednesdays and weekends.

Yes I've seen that video and a few others.

I have from Thursday 27th til Tuesday 1st, if I decide to head south I'll give you a shout, even if CS is too hard, I've wanted to do Empire for ages too.

[tomtom]

A week of hard work and scratching to find climbing opportunities....

M: Work

Tu: Work

We: Managed to get out - first time in a week. Went to Conies - being on my own and with just one large pad limited what I could do.. worked the moves on the 7B traverse - including some good heel toe beta... did Conie Touttes or Lamiche or another one - I don't know - the 6C+ one that used to be 7A I think.. anyway it felt new to me and was alright. Dabbled on another couple of problems and was spent after 90 min. Not bad considering how rusty I should have been... Stayed up until midnight working..

Th: Work (up until midnight again)

Fri: Back to Conies - arrived 45-60 min after Shark, Dolly, Plattsy and Ben had arrived. My warm up was showing them my freshly worked beta on the 7B. I was last to get it.. and only just managed - a comedy ascent/traverse - ignoring all the beta I had spouted to others I ended up hand traversing the last bit and sucessfully matched the final holds with unfurling hands... Goosed. Couldn't really do much more after that... Mother in law, sister in law and baby arrived that eve for...

Sa: TTjnrs First Birthday!! Strange - you'd think it'd all be about him, but being a year after the birth (duh!) it was full of memories of that day for us parents - what happened when - where we were, what we were doing etc.. Anyway - it was our first experience of hosting a baby birthday party... 11 babies, c. 20 adults. Thankfully the weather was fantastic and we were able to sprawl out into the communal garden and a great time was had by all.

Su: My second ever childs birthday party.. different affair - Denton Golf club... pork pies, bacon sarnies and pints... didnt drink but ate too much lard and pig product... Went to Harmers when we got back. THAT was a rude awakening - been over a year since I last tried to pull on tiny holds on slabby walls in warm conditions... fingers felt well worked afterwards and a great training contrast to Conies...   

[TobyD]

Basically like climbing a Wave level 2 or 3, then 2 x Level 3s on top of each other.

Cheers T_Beast, terms I understand. Might be a bit hard for me right now then.

There's a good vid of Kris Suriyo climbing it on YouTube.

Let me know if you're coming down, I'm free Wednesdays and weekends.

Yes I've seen that video and a few others.

I have from Thursday 27th til Tuesday 1st, if I decide to head south I'll give you a shout, even if CS is too hard, I've wanted to do Empire for ages too.

Its a bit like raindogs, but steeper harder and much better! It's also very dependent on finger size, I find the Egyptian off the slot the hardest move, but girls think it's a rest....

[TobyD]

I should add that was not intended to sound so sexist! I've just got fat fingers, not good for ansteys!

[duncan]

Few days at Pembroke next week in I don't know how many years

Have a good one.


STG - 7b RP. Try some E3s E4s. Two power endurance (30-60 seconds) sessions per week. Don’t get injured.
MTG - E5 by end of August.
LTG - 7b+RP, LH&F tbc.

M - shoulder, hip exercises
T - painful neck
W - painful neck
T - painful neck
F - shoulder exercises
S - Children’s party, including slacklining . No injuries . Drove to Pembroke with The Economist.
S - Warmed-up on WW3 Blues at Stennis Head. Tried Flash but didn’t. Gear fiddling shenanigans, down-climbed, rested, gave it a good go but powered-out at the crux. Relocated to St Govan’s and did the over-used Clean Hand Blues Band and the very good Still Hungover 2000.
M - Mother Carey’s. Warmed up on Herod, another fine route. Led Zeppelin, which went smoothly and was a huge amount of fun. Finished the trip with Rock Idol, excellent of course though showing a little wear now (like the two other rock idols at the crag).

Good trip to Pembroke. Slight disappointment with Flash, a choice of convenience rather than strategy (If I’d known quiffhanger found it hard...). It’s short and powerful, like the first ascensionist, not a soft Pembroke E4. Beginning to feel a little more in the groove by the end of the trip, on E3 at least.

Outdoors: next four weekends are spoken-for but might try to sneak out midweek once or twice. Indoors: repeaters, short routes.

[Wood FT]

 I lost part of my front tooth on Zeppelin test pulling a fixed wire, such a great route I think it was worth it

[psborland]

Light week planned:

M.
T. ancap on homeboard - no improvement. Core routine b x1.5
W. Core routine b- x2.5
Th. Short session home board trying/ setting new limit problems.
F.
Sa.
Su.