[Wood FT]

Stg: Leather Whip Mick, 8a
Mtg: E5 os, Cider Soak
Ltg: 8b

Mon -
Tue -
Wed - 3 hours at Bloc in Bristol, mostly blues and yellows, left feeling wrecked
Thu - Afternoon at Brean, I spent quite a while trying to work out the crux undercut section of Storm Warning 7c+, before eventually lowering off and seeking divine inspiration - watched a video. Suitably enlightened I then had a good redpoint falling off going for the flatty at the end of the Chulilla crux on the head wall. A shame not to do it in a day but I enjoyed implementing the beta. Girlfriend did Coral Sea 6c in a session, chuffed.
Fri - Pembroke clagged in so went to Fox Hole Cove on the Gower, very impressive setting with the overhanging 7b corner Pioneers of the Hypnotic Groove taking centre stage. Warmed up on a sharp 6a+ and a very fun *** 6c+ (Goose in Lucy). Gave Pioneers a good flash go pinging off at the apex due to bad body positioning and a wet hold. Felt pretty tired so put dogged up the well regarded 8a Palace of swords Reversed to check it out, wow, very cool and very hard. The crux pocket is small.
Sat - Wedding in Manorbier, Pembroke.
Sun - Hungover in the sun, bushwhacked over and looked down No Mans Zawn, wow.

A fun week at different locations but would've been nice to have not had time limitations on the crag days in order to finish some routes, impressed by my first visit to the Gower. Back to Empire wall tonight, phew, was getting worried.

[TobyD]

Cheers Guy:

Monday turbo wave session; 3 laps 7a.
Tue turbo; run 4.7km
Wednesday turbo, hour on the wave,  fingerboard repeaters,
Thursday turbo, Foundry leading session: 16 routes flashed in the furnace up to 7a+, 1 7b second go.
Fri turbo, wave L2 warm up circuit, 10x 7a on steep autobelay, 4 minute rests. Way too easy.
Sat yoga, 60 km bike ride, intended to go further but ran out of food and water
Sun Turbo session;  Malham with Simon and Cheque, CA x 5, FAEE X 2 all TR.
Good week for mental rehab, feeling as fit as I need to be at the moment but I need to address right shoulder weakness as this is the limiting factor on fingerboard and lots of moves. Getting psyched for some specific routes and problems now, hopefully I'll be up to cave routes in gordale by the end of the summer but might be a bit of an ask. Looking for decent peak objectives too, as stepping stones to get back to high 7s and low 8s. Suggestions? Preferably new things which  are solid! Cairn worth going to do? Done things at smalldale, and that place above Matlock.

[T_B]

M - Autobelays. 10 x Livingstone routes up to 6c. Fell off pink 7a on main wall. Forearms wrecked from yesterday.
T - Lunch: Wave pulling. Better than last Thursday. Felt decent. P.M. Long run.
W -
T - Lunch run
F - Lattice test. 100, 75, 54, 40, 30, then flapper on little finger so didn't continue. Down 22% on 15 May. Not as bad as it could have been…
S - Warslow Beer festival fell race (45th of 109, best ever result). And beer
S - PM Homeboard. Short sess adjusting holds on volumes and making up some new problems. Amazing how two small volumes makes such a difference. Now have some burly compression-style moves to play on.

Definitely in climbing maintenance mode.
One more week of running training for main 'A race' of the year, then taper time will allow for a couple of weeks of trying to get streng pre 5-week summer hols to Europe (12 days in Font, then Annot/Targasonne (?) and a week in Font at the end).

[tommytwotone]

Goal - Font 7anything


Still going with the "min 100 reps a day" thing...


M: 200 reps at gym on lunch - bodyweight deadlifts, shoulder press, box jumps, burpees etc
T: Depot evening - unfocused pottering round V2-V4 black circuit. Did a bit of volume, then 50 x pushups, 50 x burpees to finish.
W: 200 reps at gym on lunch - bodyweight deadlifts, shoulder press, box jumps, burpees etc
T: Lunchtime meeting, squeezed gym in 4pm-5pm. 200 reps made up of bicep curls, shoulder press, walking lunges, KB swings, box jumps. Then went out and drank a skinful.
F: Horrible hangover, coupled with tiredness from being awoken by a small visitor at 2am and then 5am...did 100 bodyweight squats at about 9pm. Bit of a copout but kept it going.
S: 200 reps at home - 100 x pushups, 100 x bodyweight squats
S: Long day of flying solo looking after the kids with Fiona was out. Managed 50 x pushups, 50 x bodyweight squats before bed.


Enjoying challenge of trying to get the 100 reps a day thing done. Trying to make up for slack days at home by going hard in the gym when I can get there.

[nai]

Looking for decent peak objectives too, as stepping stones to get back to high 7s and low 8s. Suggestions? Preferably new things which  are solid!

Kristian's new link, Garderobe, at Moat is very good, mostly solid and pretty safe.

Cairn worth going to do?

Yes, but careful not to fall before the flake, might be ok with the second preclipped or even placed but there's a tricky bit there that resulted in a nasty whip for my mate.

that place above Matlock.

Masson?

[tommytwotone]

Formatting mess

Goal - Font 7anything
Still going with the "min 100 reps a day" thing...

M: 200 reps at gym on lunch - bodyweight deadlifts, shoulder press, box jumps, burpees etc
T: Depot evening - unfocused pottering round V2-V4 black circuit. Did a bit of volume, then 50 x pushups, 50 x burpees to finish.
W: 200 reps at gym on lunch - bodyweight deadlifts, shoulder press, box jumps, burpees etc
T: Lunchtime meeting, squeezed gym in 4pm-5pm. 200 reps made up of bicep curls, shoulder press, walking lunges, KB swings, box jumps. Then went out and drank a skinful.
F: Horrible hangover, coupled with tiredness from being awoken by a small visitor at 2am and then 5am...did 100 bodyweight squats at about 9pm. Bit of a copout but kept it going.
S: 200 reps at home - 100 x pushups, 100 x bodyweight squats
S: Long day of flying solo looking after the kids with Fiona was out. Managed 50 x pushups, 50 x bodyweight squats before bed.

Enjoying challenge of trying to get the 100 reps a day thing done. Trying to make up for slack days at home by going hard in the gym when I can get there.

[nai]

M massage -  freed up re-tightening Glutes and a bit of work on the shoulders.  Reminder to not back-off with the self massage when it starts to get a bit painful.

T - bit sore so sacked plans for going out, 4x10 mins AeroCap at mini works.

W - nowt

Th - plans for Moat changed due to weather, opted for the safe choice of the Tor. Not very psyched....
Raining when I arrived, decided belyaing on Prow would be a bit grim so few laps of Sardine when we realised part way up that Tin Of was wet at the top.

Rain stopped so got on Prow. 2 burns, managed to link P2. Still didn't go up P3 but now it only takes 10 minutes to get up there rather than 30 it should make the whole process more amenable.
Left a little more psyched.

Fri - headed to the Tor but found the road closed for resurfacing 
Headed home and dropped into Tom's Cave to try Hannibal but it was wet 
Went home and started climbing on board then decided to go to Anston, drove out there to find that was also wet   
Arrived home with just enough time to do some fingerboarding before school pickup 

Sat - plans to go out tradding with Toby were scuppered at the last minute.  Managed 40 minutes of yoga for the first time in ages, plus the usual leg & hip stretches.

Sun - pass rolled over from Sat but couldn't find a partner, eventually got out at 1pm having warmed up at home.  Back on Toys, found a better sequence and really should/could have done it but royally cocked up a RP attempt at the initial moves and was on the back foot until the inevitable. Taking the positives, I know I can do it now.

[psborland]

M. BBC Power/ limit bouldering . Decent session was quite tired at start but improved.
T .
W. Ancap home board, improved number of moves in set 2 and set 3 over last week.
Th.rest
f. Two Tier Quck session between school runs Tried Daylight Robbery again. Pretty dialled now but just can't sustain crimp strength through the top half.
Sa.
Su. Back to Two Tier, Somebody on Daylight Robbery but they very kindly let me fit in. Basically the same problem as Friday... endurance ? Power endurance ?? 

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - ab wheel with 8 kg weightvest 10" x 6 x 2, brutal. Shoulder raises x 6, bicep curls x 10, at max speed, x 3. Dumbbell complex 30"/30" x 4. Exhausting session, very proud. Added 2 kg to all my dumbbell routines, and it feels. And shows. Mega happy about the weighted ab wheel. This goes only to prove once and forever that you must go heavy.
Tue - rest.
Wed - muscle snatch 46 kg x 3 + BM one arm hang, x 10. Fantastic.
Thu - rest.
Fri - good power session. Clean and press 46 kg x 5 x 6; lock offs + 8 kg x 4.
Sat - rest.
Sun - rest.

[duncan]

Sun - Hungover in the sun, bushwhacked over and looked down No Mans Zawn, wow.

Looks cool doesn't it? Gower sport sounds good. I should try it some time but it's trivially further to Pembroke which always seems to win...

STG - 7b RP. Try some E3s and E4s.
MTG - E5 by end of August.
LTG - 7b+RP, LH&F tbc.
 
M -
T - Deadhangs, down to smallest edges on BM1000. First proper session for months.
W - Beasted from fingerboarding.
T - School sports day: egg and spoon race. [Namedrop 1] Tried to persuade Ed Milliband join in. Wisely he declined, probably sensing another photograph-with-food fit up.
F  - W1 bouldering. No oomph at all. Still tired from Tuesday, or was it the egg-and-spoon race?
S - School fete. Beer as coping strategy.
S - Event to promote BMC membership. [Namedrop 2] Got to see one of my climbing heroes Niall Grimes! He liked my t-shirt He was on stage with that guy who climbs the Yosemite, Alex Honnold is it? Niall clearly star of the show. Westway still closed so sampled the delights of The Castle, mainly reminded of why I never go there despite being closest wall to home.
 
Five weeks of steady training with no major tweaks which, tempting fate, is good progress for me. What is the ingredient? Summer? Resting properly between sessions? Mixing it up rather than focussing on one thing? Random luck? In the long-term, finger strength is my major weakness and I should do more dead-hanging but need to approach this with extreme care. Couldn’t believe how long I needed to recover after one session.
 
Westway open again as of today, they have played a blinder in the aftermath of Grenfell, go and give them your custom.  Routes only at present (new bouldering area looks promising, ETA mid August). Plan: routes indoors and out, one fingerboard or bouldering session.

[Wood FT]

Sun - Hungover in the sun, bushwhacked over and looked down No Mans Zawn, wow.

Looks cool doesn't it? Gower sport sounds good. I should try it some time but it's trivially further to Pembroke which always seems to win...

Oh yeah, so solid, I feel like doing it pre-chalked up might not be cricket on such a featured face (obviously I would)

Re: Gower - I would suggest it as an escape from bad weather as we climbed there in intermittent drizzle and were fine (needs a few dry days beforehand though). I'm keen to check out Witches Point too

[fried]

Monsoon season comes to the forest

M- rest
Tu - Indoors at Arkose, stinking humid, but had a fun session doing loads of easy stuff.
W- rest
Th - Indoors, lots of new stuff up, did a session of flash attempts. I'll give them some more serious attempts next time.
Fr- rst
Sa -ditto
Su - brief but hard BM session.

[measles23]

STG- get back to where I was before I snapped (8Aish, 225 DL)
MTG- get better than where I was when I snapped (8A+, 230 DL)
LTG- 8B before I die, 242.5 DL

69.6kg

M- nowt
T- 2hrs Stoke AW probs up to V7 with t'other half
    BM2k small crimps open crimp pulley assist 1 arm: 8 sets up to -10kgx5s on both sides
W- nowt
T- BM2k small crimps open crimp pulley assist 1 arm: 7 sets up to -9kgx3s
    Strength Asylum-
    Deadlift: 14 sets up to 205x3 and 230 off 4" blocks; dialled the weight down after repeatedly failing to repeat my old PB last week, and happy with a good working session, dominating 205 with several triples and a total of 12 lifts at that weight.. 230 felt easy off blocks, but blocks is blocks innit..
     Squat: 11 sets mostly singles at 100, still trying to find the groove with low bar
     1 armers: 10 sets up to +6kg on left, +3.5kg on right
F- nowt
S- boys day out with youth: Drayton Manor, Despic Me 3, camping (yyfy the Saturn pad fits the tent perfectly as a mattress; does this count as glamping??)
S- Stoke AW kids club: 2.5 hrs problems up to V5 flash, felt as if climbing poorly but then flashed 19 out of the 20 pink V3/4 circuit without rest..
Turned the windrows down t'farm; hive check - disastrous start to bee-keeping; half the nucleus died from heat in transit, probably including the queen - 3 new queen cells tho so there's a chance the hive will survive..

Hope to get out Tuesday and try to repeat 9to5 stand, then go for the DL triple triple on Thursday (3BW x 3)..

[Coops_13]

STG: Get stronger and do some finger work
MTG: 7C by end of her
LTG: 8A

M-F: Rest after SA
S: Roche Abbey. Good day. Managed Bad Habits Sit 7A, Tripteka 7A,Best friends dyno 7B and flashed Justice 7A at the end!
S: Anston. Finally managed Beta Blocker 7A and had a play on Resonate 7C, too hard right now. Got on better with Bullet 7C. Psyched to go back to this one to try different beta for the end 

Pretty psyched at the moment but life getting in the way of indoor sessions...

[andy_e]

MTG: 7C by end of her

 

[csl]

Coops has a plan to kill someone, perhaps his GF, and is using that as a timescale for completing his goals. Isn't that obvious?

[shark]

11.1-6

M. Eve. Persuaded to Helsby rather than going to Depot by tomtom - a place I had always steered clear of when I lived in Manchester in the mid 90's. He took me to a small unimpressive bouldering buttress in the woods. It was slightly less dreadful than Bell Hagg with the M56 as an aural backdrop. However, it had some pleasant easyish up problems, a classic awakkward problem (Oliver) and a hardish traverse put up Andy Popp. Unfortunately despite recent improved shoulder flexibility from physio I couldnt unwind from the crux cross through on the traverse. We were joined by weather beaten raggedly dressed old local. He didnt seem to take kindly to me calling him a Helsard for some reason. TT claimed to take no pleasure from burning me off. Maybe it was type two pleasure for him.

T. Noon. Foundry Lunchtime. Was planning to fingerboard but wanted to climb. Did the yellow black level 3 :-) though Paul admonished me for matching the last hold. Did a a bit better on pink and black spots. Also worked hard move on blacks in centre with Paul. And did ok on green and black spots to left. Good session and faces. Keith, Steve, Paul, Mark Shea, Ella, Adam H, Rocketman Rob.

W.

T. Eve. Fingerboard. In a foul mood due to major work and property issues. Half crimp with +2.5kg 5x5x5 on 14mm, 13mm, 12mm,13mm, 14mm edges. Didnt quite complete last rep of set 3 and 5 but still represents a PB. DB Finger rolls. Then did a 145kg deadlift and realised the weights were unbalanced on either end - no wonder I wobbled. Then did 155kg which matches my PB.

F. AM Pummelled by Louise. Eve Drank a decent bottle of wine

S. Stressed

S. Malham with Cheque and Toby. Went earlier than I would like. Met Matthew from Pontefract way there. Sunny but a fair bit of seepage still. Some breeze. F&EE x 2. Worked and tried to do links on Raindogs. Gave up on bottom at end as footholds buttery (note to self 5.10 rubber rubbish in heat) and just tried links of top bit. Not ideal conditions. Relaxed day. Generally feel my body is working better from the physio


Weight had been edging upwards so managed to extend my dieting resolve past weds all the way to friday and lost 6lbs by Eating Fuck All tm . Regained 3 lbs over weekend. Boys exams now over. Seem to be getting stronger. Planning having a few days in Pembroke week after this with Nick C if weather good. Maybe try out Gower if forecast is dodgy.
 

[Coops_13]

Coops has a plan to kill someone, perhaps his GF, and is using that as a timescale for completing his goals. Isn't that obvious?

Fat thumbs have inadvertently revealed my plans...

[36chambers]

M:
T: Indoors. Can't remember what.
W:
T: Indoors. Ended up on the circuit board.
F:
S: Impossible roof. Went from puntering off the final moves of Into The Black 7C, to dabbing my spotter on another go, to the hold breaking clean off
S: Anston. Managed all but the last move on Resonate 7C and felt reasonably close to getting the heel to stick on Dark Art 8A.

[36chambers]

Coops has a plan to kill someone, perhaps his GF, and is using that as a timescale for completing his goals. Isn't that obvious?

Fat thumbs have inadvertently revealed my plans...

Freudian thumb

[Nibile]

Thumb and punishment.

[andy_e]

Maybe he feels under the thumb hence why he's not done 7C yet?

[tomtom]

M: For some reason I worked quite hard at persuading shark to come to Helsby instead of the Depot. He seemed to enjoy himself after an initial period of under-whelmedness. He perplexed one of the locals (Tom Leopart??) by asking them if they were a Helsard (WTF?) - I wondered if it was some sort of dogging codewords but apparently not. Shark aside, I had a really really good session - repeated loads of the harder stuff that usually takes me a time to get into and felt strong, floaty and moving well. Excellent.

Tu:

We: Was over in Hull - needed a work out so went to RockCity. It was fucking shit. Sorry RockCity, but the setting and grading was dire.. I did two problems I liked - and did a load of problems I didn't like. I left after an hour - and it cost me £9.

Th: Busy day working in a flume sorting out some experiments. Dropped car off or first MOT. Went to collect in the afternoon failed on a broken coil spring. Still under warranty - so then had to deal with nearest dealer that couldnt fix until Monday, and then (fortunately) Volvo have some assist scheme thing so I had a free hire car until then. Hire car delivered about 5:30pm then back to Manchester.

Fr: Manchester to Wells (south of Bristol). Took 6 1/2 hours... with a 1 year old in the back. I had a headache all the way. Went to bed with no dinner as soon as we arrived - felt awful

Sa: Terrible night - wild dreams - strange dreams. Up at 5 - started to feel better by 11-12. Then a relatives 50th in a field 20 min away. Decent afternoon - games, food, bbq marquee etc.. still feeling bushed - left at 9pm.

Su: Felt normal again. Great. Took 6 hours to get back (driving this time was only 4 - but two 1yo meltdowns en-route).

Overall - 800 miles in the hire car (Peugot2008) gave me backache - and I've not done enough climbing

[Wood FT]

Helsard is a play on Bleausard I presume, I like it

[cheque]

Funny reading Shark and TomTom's differing experiences of the same trip. I thought Helsard was funny too.