UKBouldering.com

UKB Power Club Week 382 19th - 25th June 2017 (Read 8080 times)

fried

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1892
  • Karma: +60/-3
I could just cut and paste last weeks entry.

Had W/Th off work but Mid 30° so sat at home in front of the fan and wrote reports. Nothing much until Saturday.
Th - BM in the heat but pumped out on the first set.

S - Up early to Bois Rond, just to try 3 specific problems...

First, Little Shakespeare https://bleau.info/rond/3476.html. Low percentage moves but have a new sequence till the rock up. Talked to a couple of old hands who were surprised I was trying it in this heat...I have strange skin; climb better at 25° than 5°.Gave up when the sun came on it. So close.

Next - le Meilleur des mondes https://bleau.info/rond/1796.html. Flashed to the foot jam, decided to go for it..it's absolutely bomber. Thought that was it, but no, there's the foot change to do. Beaten again. Old hand shows me another method, impossible for me.

Last - Le Long Fleuve Tranquille https://bleau.info/rond/3514.html. Flashed to my alternative finish up a blue at the end; the real one being very unappetising. Dropped the top move....

Exhausted and done.

might do a bm session later

TobyD

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3827
  • Karma: +88/-3
  • Job offers gratefully accepted
Monday yoga; repeaters; aerocap 40 minutes
Tuesday turbo 20 minute; wave + 10 minutes aerocap
Wednesday turbo 20 minute; 5km run
Thursday turbo 20 minute; wave session, 13/16 level 2s, tried level 3 any feet. Froggatt evening for a couple of routes
Friday turbo 20 minute; wave in the evening circuit of level 2s, core exercises / stretching
Saturday yoga, 72 km bike ride
Sunday turbo 20 minute cadence; cragx with Simon, wave session, 10 minutes aerocap

Decent week, very far off anything at crag X unfortunately, because it's a lovely place, but great to get out on a small hold or two. Longest ride so far too. Any suggestions for slightly easier decent limestone problems? In the Peak, non scary please! Red or dead and Jerry's traverse already in mind.

tomtom

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 20282
  • Karma: +641/-11
M:
Tu:
We: Helsby. Really good session - climbed well, felt strong - repeated all the harder eliminates...
Th:
Fr:
Sa: Conies Dale with Andy_E. Good session - managed (I think) for the first time Conie Yeboah - rept of Conie Lamiche (in a seemingly hard way..) and the new 7 (A?) on the RH side of the side buttress, Conie Braxton.
Su:

Toby - there are no easy and/or decent Peak lime problems ;) But... For steeper stuff on big holds (not very high) then Conies is a good place to head.. the 7A on the far left of X is decent (and soft) - nothing at Rubicon is a giveaway (except for the 'new' 7A thats 6B).. though Millers Tale is a decent low 7A given 6B+ in the guide.. :) I've generally exhausted a supply of easy ish low 7's in the peak - but a few suggestions from problems I filmed:






shark

Offline
  • *****
  • Administrator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 8697
  • Karma: +625/-17
  • insect overlord #1
Any suggestions for slightly easier decent limestone problems? In the Peak, non scary please! Red or dead and Jerry's traverse already in mind.

As TT says Conies is an option, as is Anston Stones, but I suspect (though I've not been) that Crag P might be the best bet.

shark

Offline
  • *****
  • Administrator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 8697
  • Karma: +625/-17
  • insect overlord #1
11.3-6

M. Eve. Circuits Manc Depot. Made progress on desperate Dave Barrans Purple 7b. Still a long way off linking it though.

T.

W. Eve. Fingerboard 5x5x5 half crimps. Possibly a PB

T. Noon. Foundry Wave. Bit more work on pink and black spots. Got to work on yellow black to left and did in two halves. Eve. Went back for second session like a hero but was rubbish so sacked it off

F. PM. S&M session with Madame Louise. Forgot the safeword.  :whip:  :w00t:  :'(

S, Too sore for anything

S. AM No takers for Malham. Out with Toby. Cooler but still humid, Rubicon to warm up then Crag X. Rammed including Team Loud. The Team Reefer turned up. Rail on JR was greasy. Had a few goes then worked Sean's with Team Old Skool. Called it a day early. PM Fingerboard as on Weds. Also did some proper deadlifts. 

Lacking in direction for outside climbing but at least getting stronger, though not lighter. 
« Last Edit: June 25, 2017, 08:19:17 pm by shark »

Wood FT

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2951
  • Karma: +162/-8
Stg: Leather Whip Mick, 8a
Mtg: E5 os, Cider Soak
Ltg: 8b

Mon - Bloody

Tue - Hot

Wed - Tried to get out but still too warm

Thu - Ansteys, good long link on LWM then complete meltdown trying Not Just Empire 7c at end of session

Fri -

Sat - Drove up to Lower Sharpnose with dreams of lactic fear mongering but the drizzle was persistent all the way up, we couldn't even see the crag through the mist. Gutted, would've been first trad since August '16. Ran away for 3-hours bouldering at the barn, a fun little place, well set problems for such a weird set-up (free standing boulder)

Sun - Ansteys, Climbed Avenged Direct 8a, my second of the grade if it is (in line with other routes on the wall but not exactly peak 8a), fell off the end of crux on LWM, close. Finished on Not Just Empire which felt 7a Compared with thursday's effort. A good day

Very happy with progress on Empire Wall routes but disappointed not to get on the Sharpnose fins this weekend, will have a Pembroke day on Friday before a wedding.

Has anyone climbed at Witches Point and Shipwreck cove? Which is better? 

nai

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4008
  • Karma: +206/-1
  • In my dreams
M nowt


T - Nettle - Toys For the Boys - did short links after initially finding the whole thing baffling. Still have a stopper foot move to iron out of the sequence. Imagine it'd feel somewhat easier in cooler weather.


W - nowt


Th Moat - did Garderobe, one of the recent new routes/links. Pretty good, better than some similarly graded established stuff

Had an onsight attempt at Moat People (6th tie-in of the day and already tired so probably should have left it) which ended at the crux but the game was up long before then really. Tried a redpoint but didn't have the beans. Nothing to do with making a complete arse of the lower wall, of course.


Fri - knackered

Sat - max hangs. Low scores.

Sun -  Circuits not sure whether they were HI AeroCap or low end AeroPow or what I was trying to achieve.



Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


tomtom

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 20282
  • Karma: +641/-11
Back doing Ok Nai?

nai

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4008
  • Karma: +206/-1
  • In my dreams
Been improving but started feeling it last few days, can feel the tenderness in and around the glutes. Trying to do the rehab every day but at an hour per session it's sometimes hard to fit in. Have a massage booked for tomorrow so hopefully he'll get in deeper than the spikey ball and free things up a bit

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


nai

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4008
  • Karma: +206/-1
  • In my dreams



Sun - Ansteys, Climbed Avenged Direct 8a, my second of the grade 

Nice one, seemed unlikely a few entries back.

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


Wood FT

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2951
  • Karma: +162/-8



Sun - Ansteys, Climbed Avenged Direct 8a, my second of the grade 

Nice one, seemed unlikely a few entries back.

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk

cheers, had to work out a few climbing related head problems last year and am seeing the benefits now I hope

36chambers

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1678
  • Karma: +154/-4
M:
T: Cliff. Close to climbing Sewer Rat Connection 7B+, but the LH crimp gave both my index and middle fingertips blisters :shrug:
W:
T: Indoors. Can't climb well on the boards anymore, I'm a failure. Perhaps it's the heat. Ended up on the campus board for the first time in ages. Also did a few 1 min on/off foot on campusing to end the session.
F:
S: Roche Abbey. First visit and I was impressed. Climbed various 6's and low 7's and everything I tried was bon. Went to scope out Impossible Roof and was blown away, it looks incredible. I know there's supposedly a guide in the pipeline, but if anyone happens to have any sort of topo for the roof I would be very grateful for a copy?
S: Swastika Stones. Enjoyed various low 6's and had a quick punt on Asylum 7B+. Eventually plucked up the courage to do the moves, but didn't have time for the link. Keen to return.

LH ring finger is not doing well at the moment :(

abarro81

Online
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4287
  • Karma: +341/-25
Nice one Guy :)

tommytwotone

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Southern jessie turned Almscliff devotee
  • Posts: 3633
  • Karma: +199/-3
Goal- Font 7anything


M - went to North Lees with Una to spend some time one-to-one / spoil her a bit and stay in camping pod. 32(or maybe more) degrees. Plans for climbing at Burbage North out of the window. Tried to go to the pool in Hathersage, no joy there either as it was full to capacity. Pizza in Endlciffe Park in the tea, then back to the pod to sit in front of a fan.
T - much cooler, good morning clambering with Una at Burbage North (area under Bilberry Crack as a great jumble of stuff for the very small). McFiends for lunch, then a run around Endcliffe Park in the afternoon.
W - Back to work, nowt.
T - gym on lunch (with busted aircon) - 500m row, bodyweight deadlifts, shoulder press, box jumps, bicep curls, goblet squats and burpees. Can't remember sets but 200 reps in total.
F - worked from home, so did 100 reps on lunch. Jog to warm up, then 50 x burpees, 50 x pushups.
S - 100 reps at home again
S - 100 reps at home again


Been struggling with finding time at work to get to gym, so need to have a rethink in terms of keeping in shape. In a Sharkathlon style, am trying to do 100 reps as a minimum every day. Should work as it's something I can do at home with zero equipment, and takes all of half an hour including shower afterwards, so can be squeezed in around home commitments.


tomtom

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 20282
  • Karma: +641/-11



Sun - Ansteys, Climbed Avenged Direct 8a, my second of the grade 

Nice one, seemed unlikely a few entries back.

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk

Missed that - well done Guy.

T_B

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3078
  • Karma: +149/-5
M - Knackered
T - Still tired from weekend
W - Ran to work before heat
T - Wave pulling after 6 days off. Felt weak/moving badly and weird sharp pain in left ring finger : (
F - PM Tideswell FR
S - Added two volumes to homeboard
S - Lunch short run. PM Conies Dale with Dave. First visit. Excellent conies. Didn't even notice left ring finger. Flashed most stuff up to 7B (holiday grades), then got stuck into Beak Forest. Best go didn't quite get slot properly but held it for a second. Got tired/pulled skin off thumbs. Dave nearly did it but didn't. Definitely one to come back for.

Will try and do some training this week as won't be climbing outside.



Nibile

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 7991
  • Karma: +743/-4
  • Part Animal Part Machine
    • TOTOLORE
Power Club

Mon - circuit of snatch pulls x 5; ab wheel 10" x 6, static shoulder raises, static biceps curls all x 4. Exhausting. Good progress on the ab wheel. Must test the standing one now.
Tue - rest.
Wed - shoulder raises, biceps curls x 10 max speed x 3. Boxing bag, quite brilliant. Combinations and 6/6 on off. 
Thu - rest.
Fri - rest.
Sat - clean and press 46 kg x 5, 4, 3 + explosive pull ups 8 x 3. EMOM cleans 5 x 10. Brilliant session after a night of prosecco.
Sun - boxing bag. Snatch pulls. Biceps curls. Boiling.

Hard hard hard week work wise. Wake up at 6, commute one hour to Florence on my bike, walk 35 minutes to school, teach until 18, walk back, drive back, collapse in bed. Temps in the high 30's. Very proud to do a couple of sessions.

TobyD

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3827
  • Karma: +88/-3
  • Job offers gratefully accepted

T - Nettle - Toys For the Boys - did short links after initially finding the whole thing baffling. Still have a stopper foot move to iron out of the sequence. Imagine it'd feel somewhat easier in cooler weather.

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk

I remember that sequence was more important than the conditions...but I'm afraid I can't remember what I did at all, only that me and J Dud found a really nice way to do it. I'd get someone else to look at your back, it sounds like what you are doing perhaps isn't really nailing the problem.

TobyD

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3827
  • Karma: +88/-3
  • Job offers gratefully accepted
Thanks for the problem suggestions everyone, keep them coming! Conies dale looks worthwhile. I've done most of the suggested stuff years ago, but not for a long time. I used to be able to do laps on the R&H start(if that's the 7a+) but couldn't do it earlier last year, though after a couple of redpoints on ring of fire.

Coops_13

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1206
  • Karma: +75/-0
    • YouTube
A few weeks away from Power Club, back from Rocklands this morning :'(

Had two weeks there, 10 days on with a loose aim of doing 20 7s over the trip, managed 21!  :2thumbsup:

Highlights include:
 - The Rhino
 - Minki
 - All the dynos
 - Creaking Heights
 - John Denver

Poor quality video to follow...

duncan

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2951
  • Karma: +332/-2
Well done Guy and Coops.
 
STG - 7b RP. Try some E3s and E4s.
MTG - E5 by end of August.
LTG - 7b+RP, LH&F tbc.
 
M - Shoulder stuff. Mini fingerboard session.
T - Vauxwall. Aerocap (600 moves). 34C and humid. Skin deteriorated faster than joints or muscles, possibly a first for me.
W - Walk/jog 10km.
T - Funeral and wake. 
F - High Tor with HG. The original plan was Kilnsey (thanks for the suggestions) but everywhere north of Bakewell was forecast to be rainy. Matlock had the occasional shower and it sounds like we chose well. Climbing at High Tor is always good though very much playing to my strengths. We warmed up on M1 and Flakey Wall. HG despatched Supersonic with aplomb, his first E5 for some years he says, a suitable way to enter his 5th decade. I’m still leaving it for the ground-up...
S - Shoulder stuff.
S - West 1 Bouldering to V3+. Seymour leisure centre is offering free entry to Westway members as the latter remains closed. West 1 has a few vertical routes, a small but well-designed bouldering room, and quite elaborate training area. The setting is in-house, mostly one person. The problems I tried were mixed in quality: some good, too many dependent on reach, or involved slapping for tweaky holds, or had high-up moves droppable in an awkward body position. It was pleasantly quiet. A routesetter exchange with the Westway (they share the same management) and training more of the team would improve the place considerably.
 
Quite a difficult week, and busy time at work, all not helped by the heat. Great to place some gear, M1 being my first proper trad. route of the year, and the final starred sub-E4 High Tor route I’d not previously done. I need to try the harder ones now.
 
Plan: one more week of training bouldering strength and aerocap., then a rest, then start putting it all together.

psborland

Offline
  • *
  • regular
  • Posts: 46
  • Karma: +1/-0
A few weeks away from Power Club, back from Rocklands this morning :'(
Nice one, Jealous !

M. BBC- power/ Limit bouldering, wasn't a great session, a bit too hot really.

T. Core routine b x 3 rounds

W. decided to train at home Ancap circuit in garage. Brought an industrial fan home from work which helped a lot ! 12 moves on 2min45sec clock x6. X 3 sets. Decent though core seemed weak link towards the end.
   chest stretches

Th.
Fr. HB strength- 10 sec / 3 mins rest x 9. Dead lifts - 105 Kg need to buy more weight discs.

sa.
Su. Two Tier - Daylight Robbery . proved a bit harder than anticipated  !! Top is pumpy . 3 burns. maybe next week  :-\

nik at work

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3586
  • Karma: +312/-2
Forgive me father for I have sinned,it has been several weeks since my last confession.

They can all be summarised thus:
Most days - WORK

With one or two sessions a week at the traverse wall.

One more week of a big project to go and then hopefully more free time (for DIY no doubt...)

measles23

Offline
  • ***
  • stalker
  • Posts: 264
  • Karma: +45/-1
5 months since my last confession - need some more structure so back to power club..

Starting work after being off with broken leg was harder than I'd expected, and I lost pretty much all the gains from the high intensity/high frequency finger boarding. Getting back into training now - deadlift has come back delightfully well with a 220 and triple at 200 last week; not quite back to PB, but I've lost a few pounds so hit a body weight PB of 3.14BW

69.6kg

M- nowt
T- brief session Sean's roof in good connies; no headway on 9 to 5 sitter move, just tickling the hold. Dom says he broke the foothold but apparently it has been done since..
W- nowt
T- BM2K pulley assist one arm open crimp on small crimps: 8 sets up to -11kg for 5s on both sides.
Deadlift: 12 sets failed 3 times to equal previous PB of 225 despite 200 feeling easy as a warm-up..
7 sets squats- trying to learn low bar as less painful on the neck; light weights
8 sets 1 armers up to +5kg on left, +2.5kg on right
F/S/S - Beavers family camp in Beau Desert; boy and I nailed the scout camp traverse wall :/

Aims- equal and surpass DL PB; the DL triple triple (3BWx3); progress towards 1 arming the BM2K small crimps in open crimp, progress 1 armers by adding weight rather then reps; find a good hard problem to project..

Good to be back

SA Chris

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 29221
  • Karma: +630/-11
    • http://groups.msn.com/ChrisClix
back from Rocklands

Climbing aside, good trip generally? Did you get to a game park in the end?

Coops_13

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1206
  • Karma: +75/-0
    • YouTube
back from Rocklands

Climbing aside, good trip generally? Did you get to a game park in the end?
Yeah had a good time, didn't make it to the game park. Went to Lambert's Bay to see no penguins... Next time  ::)

SA Chris

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 29221
  • Karma: +630/-11
    • http://groups.msn.com/ChrisClix
Should have gone to Boulders Beach!

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal