Author Topic: Bouldering grade to max-hang - app  (Read 1322 times)

Offline matts

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Bouldering grade to max-hang - app
« on: June 22, 2017, 10:17:07 am »
Here is a little web app that I wrote. It lets you compare your max-hang numbers to your bouldering grade. So far more than 200 climbers have participated in it and there's quite a few entries between V5 and V11. More data in the V12 and up range would be great though.

I published the link on https://www.reddit.com/r/climbharder/ but thought it would be good to also post it somewhere else. Get some more variety and all that...

Feel free to share and try it out if you like:
https://toclimb8a.shinyapps.io/maxtograde/

Offline monkoffunk

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Re: Bouldering grade to max-hang - app
« Reply #1 on: June 22, 2017, 10:46:00 am »
General trend as expected with a huge range for given grades, probably also to be expected?
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Offline matts

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Re: Bouldering grade to max-hang - app
« Reply #2 on: June 22, 2017, 10:53:37 am »
Yes, everything as expected I'd say. I think range for given grades is amplified because it's self-reported, people give indoor and outdoor grades and so on... still interesting to see.

Offline jwi

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Re: Bouldering grade to max-hang - app
« Reply #3 on: June 22, 2017, 11:05:46 am »
A flat 18 mm edge is a very strange handhold as well. Never seen one on a route or a boulder. Familiarity with the test equipment probably explain quite a lot of the variation.

Offline matts

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Re: Bouldering grade to max-hang - app
« Reply #4 on: June 22, 2017, 11:19:06 am »
True. But I think so far people who entered their data are generally people who use a fingerboard regularly and should be familiar with an 18-20 mm edge. I think no one has seen this, thought they didn't know what they can hang, tested that, and then entered their data.

Offline matts

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Re: Bouldering grade to max-hang - app
« Reply #5 on: June 22, 2017, 08:00:16 pm »

Offline yetix

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Re: Bouldering grade to max-hang - app
« Reply #6 on: August 07, 2017, 04:24:06 pm »
would you say 18mm or 20mm is more appropriate? - seems to me it would have quite a variance

Offline Danny

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Re: Bouldering grade to max-hang - app
« Reply #7 on: August 08, 2017, 09:57:16 pm »
Looks like good data to me. Trend is clear enough—and expected as you say—despite high residual variance. Perhaps asking a slightly different question would clean it up, like, eg, what's the highest grade you've climbed >5 of?   

Online tomtom

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Re: Bouldering grade to max-hang - app
« Reply #8 on: August 09, 2017, 08:15:22 am »
Maybe the timing too - e.g. You may have climbed V12 two years ago, but measured hangability last week...

Offline Murph

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Re: Bouldering grade to max-hang - app
« Reply #9 on: August 09, 2017, 01:37:09 pm »
Good point about timing TT.

I looked up that lattice article you mentioned about crimp vs open vs grade. Interesting. 1/2 crimp has better explanatory power than open - some people are much stronger open than their grade. Clearly relates to the discussion here.

https://m.facebook.com/latticetraining/photos/a.206890996309899.1073741829.135071466825186/482595652072764/?type=3&source=48&__tn__=EH-R

I can't see the article too well - graphs are blurry. Am I going to have to join Facebook just to read the latest finger strength science?
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