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best limestone E5's and above in't peak (Read 5692 times)

haydn jones

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best limestone E5's and above in't peak
June 20, 2017, 07:35:46 pm
come on then guys lets get the list rolling.
p.s anyone fancy getting out and doing trad

Duncan campbell

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The only Peak lime E5s I've lead are potentially two of the best (and most obvious);

Supersonic and Tales of Yankee Power at High Tor - both excellent on immaculate rock!

Have seconded (sort of) Behemoth at WCJ - it's hard!

How comes you are suddenly keen for trad!?!?

Neil F

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Not necessarily the best, but certainly enjoyable:-

Supersonic, Bastille, Castellan, Grapevine, Fantasia, Party in the Park - High Tor

Tales of the Riverbank - Dovedale Church

Behemoth, That'll Do Nicely, Leviathan, Cool Hand Luke - Central Buttress

Honeymoon Blues, Piranha, A Miller's Tale - Rubicon

Ceramic Direct, Golden Mile, Apocalypse - Chee Tor

Spizz Energy, The Flight of Icarus - Two Tier

Big Plum, Sloe Gin - Plum Buttress

Circe, Four Minute Tiler, Menopause - Stoney

NB. Unfortunately some of these may now have been bastardised by bolts on adjacent, crammed in sport routes, but they were definitely trad routes when I did them!

That should keep you going for about a week!

Neil

neilslim

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Wilt and Pagan man, both at ravensdale?

haydn jones

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Thats a good list will add them to the wish list the stuff at plum butress has been retroed now though

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How come you're on a trad mission dude?

Fiend

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Caller Of The Trad. He's gonna outwit JB this way.

Hydraulic Man

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Circe, Kink, Kellogg, Kingdom Come at Stoney.

You should get on In Bulk on Central Buttress. It is currently clean but best started up St Paul Direct.



andy popp

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More at Chee Tor: Midnight Summer Dream, Autobahn and Laughing (E6) are all very good.

mrjonathanr

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+1 for quite few mentioned but especially In Bulk and Tales.

Do The Alien while you're at CB it's not a path.

T_B

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High Tor and Chee Tor for Peak lime trad, apart from the odd route in Dovedale.

Stoney for a short hit or if it's raining.

A man of your calibre should have a look at Plectrum Maxilla Direct at Rubicon. E7 and doubt it's had an ascent in 25 years. It looks to be on good rock and properly hard.

dave

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There's an E6 direct finish to an E2 at Staden that always looked good. I think I saw a video of Gus on it a while back.

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Private gripped

shark

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Not done it but The Great Tribulation should be on the list.

If you want some second ascent ticks then my High Tor routes Harvey Wallbanger and Dementia are decent

TobyD

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The Golden Mile is amazing. I know Neil's mentioned it, but in my opinion it's one of the better inland trad pitches I've done in this country. High Tor is a great crag, but I think some of the routes are a bit overrated, Tales... for instance. In bulk is good too, even though i fell off it.

Tommy

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Not done it but The Great Tribulation should be on the list.

If you want some second ascent ticks then my High Tor routes Harvey Wallbanger and Dementia are decent

Great Tribulation that Jon F put up is amazing. Some of the Ilam Rock things are good too. Steve Mac's E6 link up on the left is well hard!

haydn jones

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Would the great tribulation be on sightable or does it need a clean?

Tommy

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These days no one ever does trad on limestone much, so who knows?! It was perfect when I did it about 5yrs ago?? :-)


Bonjoy

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Would the great tribulation be on sightable or does it need a clean?
It felt like solid 7c climbing with good not too fiddly gear. The way I did some of the moves was quite techy and I doubt an onsighter would come up with the same sequence. But I dare say you'd stand a fair chance if you sent up a cleaning monkey first. The easier but still hard upper crack may well be the onsighter's crux - how's your awkward limestone finger crack reading/climbing skills? Film it if you do try, I'd love to have a watch. Get JC to hover his drone up next to you!
If you fancied going for the flash instead, I pretty much describe the crux lower section move by move in this blog post - http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,14536.msg254361.html#msg254361

haydn jones

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Did in bulk and also the variation En masse descendre. Both really top quality e6's both prime for the OS now

Hydraulic Man

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Leviathan now clean Haydn so you can do the quadruple......

mrjonathanr

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Did in bulk and also the variation En masse descendre. Both really top quality e6's both prime for the OS now

what did you think of En Masse Descendre?

Good? Bold? Hard or not?

Thanks

haydn jones

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Harder moves leaving the bolt but then easier top section. I thought in bulk was 3stars and this was 2stars for peak standards

mrjonathanr

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Cool, I thought in Bulk was great which is why I was curious about its neighbour. thanks.

 

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