Author Topic: Céüse route recommendations [again]  (Read 605 times)

Offline jwi

  • forum hero
  • *****
  • Posts: 1703
  • Karma: +110/-0
  • uhm... huh?
    • On Steep Ground
Céüse route recommendations [again]
« on: June 16, 2017, 12:28:05 pm »
Previous threads:

Ceuse Route Recommendations.....7b - 8a+
Ceuse 6c - 7b+

--------
Me and my better half will probably go to Céüse for about three weeks in July (unless the weather forecast for the Hermida valley looks amazing). We've climbed in Céüse a few days before and done a few routes, but not too many.

Looking for recommendations 6c--8b, especially interested in the new routes on the right side around Demi-Lune and further out that way.

For me: I like basically anything except short jug-hauls in roofs, but generally I prefer longer pitches to shorter. For her: the longer the better, preferably vertical or a bit steeper, not too cruxy/reachy.

Offline Bonjoy

  • Leafy gent
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • *****
  • Posts: 8890
  • Karma: +415/-7
Re: Céüse route recommendations [again]
« Reply #1 on: June 16, 2017, 12:51:00 pm »
No doubt I mentioned in previous threads but Cent Patates 7b/+ springs to mind

Offline duncan

  • forum hero
  • *****
  • Posts: 1587
  • Karma: +189/-1
Re: Céüse route recommendations [again]
« Reply #2 on: June 16, 2017, 02:25:59 pm »
From Ceuse 6c - 7b+

Un Pont Sur l'Infini: 6c-7b heaven. Basically, they're all good so do them all.

Agree with this. And, dare I say it, the grading of some of the newer routes is not as tough as Ceuse in general.

Offline jwi

  • forum hero
  • *****
  • Posts: 1703
  • Karma: +110/-0
  • uhm... huh?
    • On Steep Ground
Re: Céüse route recommendations [again]
« Reply #3 on: June 30, 2017, 01:36:14 pm »
OK, I'll just try routes with lots of ascents on 8a.spew + lots of “soft” comments then.

Another question: We'll stay in Gap at least 2 weeks, perhaps 3 weeks. I'm going to Sweden afterwards and need to be in reasonable/good shape for bouldering. Hence, I need to boulder 2-3 times during those 3 weeks. I would not like to go to the gym for this, so I'm looking for routes that starts with reasonably fun boulders around 7B to 7C+ for around two bolts. I don't mind monos if they are not too sharp.

Offline saltbeef

  • forum hero
  • *****
  • Posts: 1433
  • Karma: +47/-5
Re: Céüse route recommendations [again]
« Reply #4 on: June 30, 2017, 05:16:03 pm »
violent illusion is a boulder problem into 7b/+. Start rumoured to be font 7b+/c? I had a couple of goes when it was busy (hence trying this rather than getting in a massive queue) and hot, and it felt ok so those grades might be a bit inflated. I dunno. but yeah its a boulder problem into a relative rumble and no one is ever on it. i don't remember any monos on it,
isn't ami de tout le monde (sp)supposed to be bouldery?
anything at berlin is mega, as is changement at demi lune, privilege de serpent is v good at cascade but i think I've said this in previous threads. and do bibendum for the swing
when 6c's not that hard anymore, and 6b is approaching a rest...

Offline jwi

  • forum hero
  • *****
  • Posts: 1703
  • Karma: +110/-0
  • uhm... huh?
    • On Steep Ground
Re: Céüse route recommendations [again]
« Reply #5 on: June 30, 2017, 07:23:20 pm »
Cheers, L'ami de tout le monde is on the list anyway, since I've gathered from the comments that it's the softest 8b at Céüse. I've heard the same [that it is 7C to 7b+] about Violent Illusion so it seems like a good way to spend 3 days... but I'm unlikely to be able to drag my belayer to Cascade.

Offline Ged

  • menacing presence
  • **
  • Posts: 246
  • Karma: +8/-0
Re: Céüse route recommendations [again]
« Reply #6 on: August 12, 2017, 07:33:04 am »
Next to bibendum is magicien De oz. an absolutely brilliant 7c+. Definitely do that.

As others have said, everything on pont sur l'infini is great up to 7b

Offline jwi

  • forum hero
  • *****
  • Posts: 1703
  • Karma: +110/-0
  • uhm... huh?
    • On Steep Ground
Re: Céüse route recommendations [again]
« Reply #7 on: August 12, 2017, 02:34:57 pm »
We found that warming up on Grand Face was good fun. No crowds and early shade. Many good vertical endurance routes in the grade span 6c-7c. The best routes are all around 50m, but easy to do with two ropes, one 70m+, and one 30m+ rope. Les Volets bleus, Le Messie est Argentin, La pierre de Mars and Emmenez moi were particularly good. Easy grades in a very user-friendly style too.

Other than that, and this is not a surprise to anyone, but I found “Couleur du vent”, 8a, and “Femme Blanche”, 8a+ excellent. On the Pont sur l'infini sector “Dietetic Line”, “Pont sur l'infin” and “Retour en Afrique” are really good. “Retour en Afrique” might be the best 7a in Provence not in Verdon.