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Céüse route recommendations [again] (Read 752 times)

jwi

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Céüse route recommendations [again]
June 16, 2017, 12:28:05 pm
Previous threads:

Ceuse Route Recommendations.....7b - 8a+
Ceuse 6c - 7b+

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Me and my better half will probably go to Céüse for about three weeks in July (unless the weather forecast for the Hermida valley looks amazing). We've climbed in Céüse a few days before and done a few routes, but not too many.

Looking for recommendations 6c--8b, especially interested in the new routes on the right side around Demi-Lune and further out that way.

For me: I like basically anything except short jug-hauls in roofs, but generally I prefer longer pitches to shorter. For her: the longer the better, preferably vertical or a bit steeper, not too cruxy/reachy.

Bonjoy

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No doubt I mentioned in previous threads but Cent Patates 7b/+ springs to mind

duncan

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From Ceuse 6c - 7b+

Un Pont Sur l'Infini: 6c-7b heaven. Basically, they're all good so do them all.

Agree with this. And, dare I say it, the grading of some of the newer routes is not as tough as Ceuse in general.

jwi

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OK, I'll just try routes with lots of ascents on 8a.spew + lots of “soft” comments then.

Another question: We'll stay in Gap at least 2 weeks, perhaps 3 weeks. I'm going to Sweden afterwards and need to be in reasonable/good shape for bouldering. Hence, I need to boulder 2-3 times during those 3 weeks. I would not like to go to the gym for this, so I'm looking for routes that starts with reasonably fun boulders around 7B to 7C+ for around two bolts. I don't mind monos if they are not too sharp.

saltbeef

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violent illusion is a boulder problem into 7b/+. Start rumoured to be font 7b+/c? I had a couple of goes when it was busy (hence trying this rather than getting in a massive queue) and hot, and it felt ok so those grades might be a bit inflated. I dunno. but yeah its a boulder problem into a relative rumble and no one is ever on it. i don't remember any monos on it,
isn't ami de tout le monde (sp)supposed to be bouldery?
anything at berlin is mega, as is changement at demi lune, privilege de serpent is v good at cascade but i think I've said this in previous threads. and do bibendum for the swing
when 6c's not that hard anymore, and 6b is approaching a rest...

jwi

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Cheers, L'ami de tout le monde is on the list anyway, since I've gathered from the comments that it's the softest 8b at Céüse. I've heard the same [that it is 7C to 7b+] about Violent Illusion so it seems like a good way to spend 3 days... but I'm unlikely to be able to drag my belayer to Cascade.

Ged

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#6 Re: Céüse route recommendations [again]
August 12, 2017, 07:33:04 am
Next to bibendum is magicien De oz. an absolutely brilliant 7c+. Definitely do that.

As others have said, everything on pont sur l'infini is great up to 7b

jwi

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#7 Re: Céüse route recommendations [again]
August 12, 2017, 02:34:57 pm
We found that warming up on Grand Face was good fun. No crowds and early shade. Many good vertical endurance routes in the grade span 6c-7c. The best routes are all around 50m, but easy to do with two ropes, one 70m+, and one 30m+ rope. Les Volets bleus, Le Messie est Argentin, La pierre de Mars and Emmenez moi were particularly good. Easy grades in a very user-friendly style too.

Other than that, and this is not a surprise to anyone, but I found “Couleur du vent”, 8a, and “Femme Blanche”, 8a+ excellent. On the Pont sur l'infini sector “Dietetic Line”, “Pont sur l'infin” and “Retour en Afrique” are really good. “Retour en Afrique” might be the best 7a in Provence not in Verdon.

Ged

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#8 Re: Céüse route recommendations [again]
August 25, 2017, 09:40:35 am
I meant magicien De Riga, not oz. I got back on this and did it the other day, and its as good as I remember. Locals give it 8a which seems fair. Probably the best route I've done at ceuse.

Also Mur De malade ( I think), 7c a bit right of carte Blanche etc. Mega. Has it all. Hard crux, techy stuff, runout finish. Just brilliant.

After another few days there, my list of routes to do there is even longer.