[tomtom]

Eh up all...

M: Erm... Helsby - yes Helsby. Damp, limited things to be done - but conjured up a new problem 7A+/7B doing the hard bit of Artful Dodging then heading straight up with a dynamic move from a crappy slopey crimp. Well, it'll never be a world classic, but I liked it.

T:

We: Hoped to stop off in the Peak on the way back from Hull, but missed the m18 turn off (autopilot) so trundled back home via a power hour at Logport Wall.

Th: Thursday club - up at Conies again with Dolly. We fairly quickly dispatched the 7A+ traversey eliminate thing - then set to work on Conie Ferrino - the 7B R-L traverse that starts up Bleak Forest then goes left. Tough moves on the traverse - the kind we could only just do in isolation but not link. No giveaway conies grades on this one - Dave any beta? its one of yours IIRC...?

Fr: Meh.

Sa: Trafford Centre in the morning... Mr & Mrs joint eye tests (works out really well as we can juggle the baby between us) took up most of the morning. Having last had an eye test in 2004 - it seems my sight is slightly better than it was then
Anyway - was given the afternoon off (well I was then - now I've been told differently - but thats another story..) so went to Ousels Nest. Finally managed to do the SS of Alison (Hard for 7A...) and then got a move or two further up Palms...

Su: Baby duty - nice lunch out with friends...

A good week - 3 new 7's for the pyramid...

[nai]

Hi Tom

MTW - half term duties

Th - went to Burbage North intending to solo 50 routes ahead of turning 50 soon. Bit rusty, very wary, backed off Chant & Curse and knew it wasn't going to happen. Did 16 then arrived at Remergence done in and unispired, called it a reccy and went home. 5x5x5 deadhangs back home

F - more HT duty

S another BN reccy, managed Chant & Curse this time but backed off Banana Finger. More deadhangs

Sun - managed the 3 hardest problems on my board in a very quick session then a PB 91% BW deadhang. Felt strong and stable solid. Endurance might tErN out to be shit but the enforced layoff hasn't hurt my finger strength.

[TobyD]

M29 5.0 km road run
T30 5.2 km run; 37km bike ride
W31 4.4km run
T1 5km run; 50 km bike ride
F2 Early morning 5.8km run; 6-7 hour drive to Sheffield
S3 Bit of yoga and stretching; walk round Burbage; went to the tor, hung off some crimps for a second or two. Felt pretty psyched.
S4 Early morning 5.5km run - steep roads. Afternoon, wave for first bouldering for a year! Managed 2 level 2s.

[Coops_13]

STG: Continue cut and crush Rocklands
MTG: 7C
LTG: 8A

First week of cut for Rocklands
M:
T: Indoors, best indoors session maybe ever. Sent projects on the 55, made more and ticked them all. Did 1-4-7 for first time since injured elbow. One armers felt easy...
W: Squash, lost but close
T: 30 board, good session still. Working those fingers. Did 1-4-7 again
F: Long drive to N Wales
S: Crafnant. Pretty tough there. Did Wonderarete 6C before getting on Cruella 7B. Couldn't get first move and tried lots of different beta. Moved round and flashed special K finish 6C. Did Parallel Lines 7A which has really nice moves if a bit dabby and dirty on the final traverse. Had a look at Grasswind, biiiig move so no luck. Did Ratt Roof Short 7A (hard) after a lot of effort with a scatty top out. Went to look at Elephantitus but couldn't do the big move to the sloper Slept in the Pass
S: Got on and did Cromlech Roof Crack 7A first thing, pumpy. Went to look at Bus Stop 7B+. Always thought this was out of my league but after a lot of efforts, managed to get the first move. Then managed to link first and second. Managed to do from one move in to the end (basically). Psyched to get back on this 

First week of cut went well. No alcohol and healthy eating. Below 80kg for the first time in about 5 years. Psyched for Rocklands in a week.

[user deactivated]

Alright dudes....

Sat- sat: 6 days climbing in the Frankenjura. This place was amazing. Climbed every day doing a good range of routes from 6b+ to 7c. I had a good go at climbing or redpointing everything I tried and took a good lob in the process. Wish I'd used pockets a bit more before hand as I only used one crimp all week. There wasn't much easy stuff to do at the crags we visited which were mostly north facing due to it being 28 degrees in the shade!!!!
I took two cameras, one digital and one film.  Below is a bit of digital footage including a mate on a route at a crag called kuhlochfelsen. One of the best crags I've visited anywhere.
I also ate some fantastic swine schnitzels and drank a few pints of Hell.

Watch this video on Vimeo: . Don’t have the Vimeo app? Get it from the App Store: http://bit.ly/vimeo_ios

[Muenchener]

Isn't Kuhlochfelsen the one that's famous for big runouts even by Frankenjura standards? I've always wimped out of going there.

[dave]

then set to work on Conie Ferrino - the 7B R-L traverse that starts up Bleak Forest then goes left. Tough moves on the traverse - the kind we could only just do in isolation but not link. No giveaway conies grades on this one - Dave any beta? its one of yours IIRC...?

Yeah, would have to be there to come up with any beta though, I think there was a move near the start where you cross under for a pinch and then roll out of it, something like that?

[Duma]

Goals:
8A (Hunters Roof? Godzilla?)and 8b by June. 8b is going to have to wait till after Rocklands now I think.
In shape for SA in summer.

Body Audit: Ok.
Sleep: Bit poor last week, bit stressed I think. Better last night though.
69.5kg.

M: Nothing, wet in morning so drive back from Cornwall(~6,5hrs, 1dk)
T: TCA, suprisingly knackered still from the weekend, went round the yellows (6A-6C+) as couldn't muster energy for hard stuff. Managed whole circuit with a couple of falls so not too bad I suppose (6hrs, 0dk)
W: Nothing, planning to climb again but tired so sacked it. (~6hrs, 2dk)
T: Nothing, organising wedding stuff. (~6.5hrs, 0dk)
F: Nothing, folks to stay for the weekend (~6hrs, 3dk)
S: Nothing, sisters wedding, long day. (~7hrs, many dk)
S: Nothing, took Chloe to birthday party at Clip 'n Climb, had planned to get a session in at Bloc while she was there but still knackered from Sat, sat and drank coffee instead. (~7.5hrs, 3dk)

Very light week, had hoped to get another session or two mid week but not to be with wedding faff etc. Back on it this week, hopefully get an eve at Biblins at some point, though weather looking pretty dodgy.

[36chambers]

M:
T: Indoor sport climbing! GF wanted to practice drop clipping. Not sure I actually climbed anything to the top, but I did enjoy taking 3-5 m falls on the main wall. One arm max hangs afterwards, feeling relatively weak.
W: Ilkley. Went to check out Sweet Dreams 7C+, which just happened to be tucked away enough to not receive the day's breeze. Climbed the stand and the individual low moves quickly and quickly made my escape from the army of midgeys.
T: Cliff. Pottering around, almost climbed the proper sit to Matterhorn SDS 7B+. Awful connies, despite not being too hot.
F:
S: Brimham avec hangover. Climbed To Me To You 7C/+, which I thought was bon. Couldn't stomach trying the harder version.
S: Shipley Glen. pottering around, surprisingly nice and cool.

My back is currently at an all time knottiness.

It's getting to that time of year where the GF wants to do some sport climbing, but I just see it as a wasted strength gain activity. Anyone got any tips for getting stronger whilst sport climbing, or should I just try and orchestrate a bad day out to put her off for the season??

[tommytwotone]

Th - went to Burbage North intending to solo 50 routes ahead of turning 50 soon. Bit rusty, very wary, backed off Chant & Curse and knew it wasn't going to happen. Did 16 then arrived at Remergence done in and unispired, called it a reccy and went home. 5x5x5 deadhangs back home

Having done 40 for my 34th / my mate's 40th a few years back - let me know if/when you're doing it and if you want a partner.


We did an early start, Froggatt, brunch at the caff at Calver and then Burbage North to see the rest off. Big day, and we weren't fussy about grades - we did a Mod and fair few Diffs and V Diffs. Seem to remember worst bit was getting back down to the ground on the last 10 or so routes with creaking knees and sore toes. Definitely slept well that night.


Not much to report for me, apart from the fact I actually managed 2 trips to the wall last week, one on Bank Holiday and a very sweaty session on Thursday night. Considering I wasn't the keen on The Climbing Lab initially (apart from the excellent kid's area), I'm coming round to it.

[jwi]

It's getting to that time of year where the GF wants to do some sport climbing, but I just see it as a wasted strength gain activity. Anyone got any tips for getting stronger whilst sport climbing, or should I just try and orchestrate a bad day out to put her off for the season??

Try something really hard, and make sure that you hang on the rope long enough to recover between failing on moves?

[user deactivated]

Isn't Kuhlochfelsen the one that's famous for big runouts even by Frankenjura standards? I've always wimped out of going there.

The routes on the left side of the main wall up to about 6c looked to have some pretty big run outs i.e. You'd definitely hit the deck before the second bolt. They all looked like 3* wall climbs with good holds where it mattered. And actual lines too. Interestingly it looked like there'd been a uk style bolt debacle where someone had retro bolted the classic bold test pieces and they'd been chopped and bent over. Climbers huh.

[user deactivated]

The bolts that is, not the climbers

[Luke Owens]

M: Rest

T: Rest

W: Lunch -

5 x 5s L Hangs (x2)
2 x 5 IYT's
2 x 3 Assisted one armers (both arms) (23kg assistance)

Eve: Llanddulas - 6a warm up then flash attemped on 6c+ got really pumped and fell off before the crux. Worked moves, 2nd go fell off the last move completely boxed. Had a top rope on the crux section and could barely keep my fingers from un-curling. Pumped so much it hurt!

T: Lunch - 2 x 8mins LI-AeroCap

Eve: Penmaen Head - 6a warm up then flashed a 6c+, 6b+ onsight then narrowly missed out on another 6c+ onsight. Fitness getting better slowly. Good venue for mileage.

F: Alton Towers with my better half for her birthday. First time both of us have been out of the house together without the kids in 14 months...!

S: Rest

S: Early morning mission to the Pant Ifan bouldering above Tremadog with my son. Got completely lost for an hour in the over grown, brachen and bramble filled mini valley's up top. Eventually found the 3 star problem The Tench (7A). Suprised myself doing it 4th go and then doing the sitter 3 goes after which goes at 7A+, well psyched. More quality dolerite hidden away!

Long drive home and then to Chester Zoo all afternoon, cleaned house when I got home, knackered...

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - rest. 
Tue - clean and press x 8 36 kg + explosive pull ups x 8 x 5. 1' rests. Hard.
Wed - one arm hangs on San and Lattice Edge. Quite solid: iced + 8 kg on Lattice, did also + 10 kg but not 5". Skin gave up. 26 fucking degrees. Weights isometric. Clean and press 6 x 2 41 kg.
Thu - rest.
Fri - rest (kind of, spent the entire day on my motorcycle).
Sat - explosive pull ups 8 x 4; 8 x 1 + 8 kg. Ab wheel, 20"/20" x 4. Boxing bag, a true hell on earth courtesy of Teddy Atlas and his perverse mind. Nearly puked, was nowhere close to following the rhythm. Amazing.
Sun - boxing bag.

Summer in full fashion here, raging temps, really really hard to train. Very happy about the clean and press progress and also about the one arm hangs. I could have put up some weight as of late, but kept all the added weight references. Brilliant. Nothing else matters.

[psborland]

M. Limit bouldering session followed by  power training on the campus board . (1-4-1-4) x3 x3 sets 3 minutes between sets. Pull ups 6@+25kg; 5@+30Kg; 5@+32.5Kg; 3.5@+32.5Kg

Tues- Saturday on hols to Spain with  GF managed press ups and sit ups one day only . Too much Tapas.

Sun- Cheedale . felt week, very poor stamina probably due to flying back late and eating very poorly yesterday. 

Must sort training plan this week !

[TobyD]

The bolts that is, not the climbers

Surely the Frankenjura is in Bavaria, with all the lederhosen it doesn't bear thinking about...

[Muenchener]

Surely the Frankenjura is in Bavaria

Well, since you asked ... it is now but that doesn't necessarily mean the locals like the idea. The Frankenjura north and west of the Pegnitz is in Franconia, which has been ground under the Bavarian heel since the Treaty of Vienna at the end of the Napoleonic Wars. The Grausamer Tümpel sector, just up the hill from the Grüne Hölle, is "grausam" (gruesome) because it's the scene of a massacre of local civilians by the French. Bavaria was a French ally at the time, switched sides just in time to be on the right side at the point of Napoleon's downfall & got Franconia as a reward.

South & east of the Pegnitz is Oberpfalz (Upper Palatinate) which is traditionally Bavarian.

Happy to help.

[Sasquatch]

M-Rest
T-Outside - Amazing day. Cleaned and managed to climb 7 FA's, v4, v7, v6, v9, v7/8, v8, and worked a new v11/12ish project did all but 1 move and was close on that move, but no cigar.  14 moves on bullet granite out a big roof to a tall arete.  All were outstanding lines!
W-Rest - completely blasted from Tuesday.
T-Mtn Bike
F-Moonboard session - goal was hard volume.  did 12 v8-v10's... trashed by end of session. 
S- big mtn bike day. 
S-boulder at wall.  mellow session followed by good BBQ.

Good to get a couple of big days in to get the big day fitness needed.  Less than two weeks before my trip into here:


Ten days of adventure on pristine unexplored rock

[duncan]

Sasquatch, great week but that looks bigger than bouldering!

STG - Rehab. finger
MTG - E5,
LTG - 7b+RP, LH&F tbc

M - mini-fingerboard session. Warm-up on the medium and large holds.
T -
W -
T - Uphill Quarry with Fiend. Almost too hot but enough of a breeze to keep it climbable. Warmed-up on Images of War E3 5c. Probably soft as there a bolt 5' below you on the crux but a bit spicy getting there. First trad. route for 7 months. Sniffed at A Lesser Evil but didn't trust the gear. Worked Chiming For You 7b (former E5 6b), belayed Fiend on his E5, Life and Times, then RPed Chiming first go. Get in!
F -
S -
S -

7b out of the blue (It's soft, 7a+ in the pirate guide but 7b in the one that matters and that's what people take). First of this number (though of similar technical difficultiy to E5s I've done in the distant past). Totally my style: technical crimping with just enough for the feet. Great to see Fiend despatch another E5, it's on my list now. I was also pleasantly surprised by Uphill Quarry - I started climbing here in 1977 and remembered it as a grotty dump - but they've had the landscapers in and it was all very pleasant. Like a little bit of Avon without the polish or traffic. I even had a small boy call up “you can do it” as I was resting before the crux. We used to get glass bottles lobbed our way back then.

I tweaked finger in the process but it seems to be recovering. Plan: mileage as finger allows then resume finger board.

[T_B]

M - Lunch: Wave pulling. Good sess on new set. Didn't feel like shoulder/back was holding me back on some v burly problems.
T - Woke up feeling dizzy. Lunch. A few problems on Bleaustone, still dizzy. P.M. Less dizzy. Ran round Crowden Horseshoe section of Holme Moss FR course.
W - Lunch: Wave pulling. Felt great. Finished off two problems from Monday. Didn't notice shoulder!
T - Lunch run
F - Drove to N Wales. Dropped Mrs T_B at the Cave. Beach etc with kids including dragging an unconscious woman who was half-submerged in the sea onto the beach. Safe airway position etc before paramedics arrived. Glad of first aid training! P.M. The Pass. Warmed up on roadside boulders, then managed to repeat Jerry's Roof (the ground has got higher since I last did it... 20 years ago). Did Bus Stop first go. Couldn't contemplate Mr Fantastic iron cross move.
S - AM. Ran from Pass to Ogwen via 5 x 3000ft peaks. Stunning morning.
S - Windy in Pass so headed to Coast. 2.5hrs in the Cave was enough to finish me off. Never done L Wall trav, so warmed up on bits of that then did it (flash pumptastic). Had a look at LF but it felt desperate. Got stuck into Cave Life short and eventually managed to get across the arch and wobble along wall.

Tiring week. Lots of running, lots of burly bouldering. Stunning weather in Wales.

[fried]

Feeling a bit grotty all week with a tooth abcess, not too painful but a bit out of sorts.

M- Nothing
T- Dosed up with painkillers and went to Apremonts buttes aux dames to escape the heat, unfortunately all the trees had been cut down...climbed for a couple of hours in an O.K manner.

W/Th/Fr - Nothing, abcess burst felt much better by Friday, emergency dentist gave me antibiotics but not to use them unless in pain.

Sa - Weekend camping, storms during the night but Buthiers Piscine was strangely dry, Backed off the top of le Jojo https://bleau.info/y/8168.html because I had to pick up friends from the station and didn't want to get injured, first time I've trotted that one out I think. Much, much easier than last time I tried.
Had my usual few goes on Ultrason https://bleau.info/y/8192.html, dropped the top due to adrenalin induced shakes, then it poured on me. Again much better than last time I tried.

Su - Elephant, backed off the top of Le Moreau https://bleau.info/elephant/7851.html because I had to meet friends in Chalet Jobert and didn't want to get injured. Then went round the corner in the shade and did Le Brique https://bleau.info/elephant/7852.html which I've never managed before.

Beautiful weekend, though more barbequing than climbing. and drinking.

[petejh]

STG: Send existing projs at Crag X (NI), Mega Crag X (NI),  First 8b+ (Mecca), spring. Fail!
MTG: Continue bolting/sending new routes at Mega Crag X (spring-summer). Explore more of Ireland. Projs on G.Orme, Gideon and L.Ormes (late summer after birds have left)
LTG: 8c, by June 2018


M.
T.
W.
T. Overnight ferry to Belfast.
F. Fairhead. Did 4 routes on The Prow. Fireball, Midnight Cruiser, Marconi and Embankment. The highlight was Marconi, just about os'd it but thought I was off the crux. Felt hard for E3, as hard/harder than quite a few E4s, but did climb it 'front on' and a local said bum shuffling the flared groove makes it feel easier.. Enjoyed Calvin Torrens' talk in the evening.
S. Fairhead. Hell's Kitchen with gf. Utterly brilliant route with the perfect finish (crux last moves), out there for HVS and probably mid E1 in Wales. Chuffed that gf cruised it and topped out seconds before a big storm opened and finished off the day.
S.
M. Bolted another newie at crag x, really good, around 7b-ish. Solo so didn't get chance to try my 7c/+ proj. Overnight ferry back.


Good to see loads of people at Fairhead. Off my 'peak' for Mecca now, which never reaped anything 'hard' - the trouble with training for and then trying something at your limit is I find it takes all my focus from doing other stuff. Think I preferred pyramiding up and down. Felt satisfying to keep up the tradding one day per week this time so at least I was getting good climbing done. Don't really mind failing to send this spring as much more important stuff been going on and I wasn't focusing purely on sending a climb; and made good progress on the route to the point I now know I can do it given conditions, partners and dedicating enough time to it. Might give it 1 or 2 more sessions over this week and next to try some beta, but moving on for now until autumn.

[SA Chris]

M- wall session. In spite of a few weeks off, actually felt ok. Working on improving skin after last week's flaying
T - Nothing
W - after parent's evening managed a quick outdoor session. Was surprising ly cold and dry, so went to check out somewhere usually wet. Did a few warm ups and then tried a bit of rock that usually has seeps down in. Managed to link a few moves, then snapped off crucial starting hold, arse. Don't think it will go at any grade i can do without.
T - some weights
F - was going to meet up with mate for forest run, but decided to cycle out to meet him instead. 22 km cycle, 13km run, 22 km cycle. Had to dig in for last section at about 10:30. Pretty broken.
S - Swam lengths while kids in pool for half hour, circa 600m
S - short walk with kids. Antag weights session in front of telly.

Been pissing down Sunday, yesterday today and tomorrow. No chance of project even drying out, let alone doing something with hold.

[AJM]

T - Uphill Quarry with Fiend. Almost too hot but enough of a breeze to keep it climbable. Warmed-up on Images of War E3 5c. Probably soft as there a bolt 5' below you on the crux but a bit spicy getting there. First trad. route for 7 months. Sniffed at A Lesser Evil but didn't trust the gear. Worked Chiming For You 7b (former E5 6b), belayed Fiend on his E5, Life and Times, then RPed Chiming first go. Get in!
...

7b out of the blue (It's soft, 7a+ in the pirate guide but 7b in the one that matters and that's what people take). First of this number (though of similar technical difficultiy to E5s I've done in the distant past). Totally my style: technical crimping with just enough for the feet. Great to see Fiend despatch another E5, it's on my list now. I was also pleasantly surprised by Uphill Quarry - I started climbing here in 1977 and remembered it as a grotty dump - but they've had the landscapers in and it was all very pleasant. Like a little bit of Avon without the polish or traffic. I even had a small boy call up “you can do it” as I was resting before the crux. We used to get glass bottles lobbed our way back then.

I tweaked finger in the process but it seems to be recovering. Plan: mileage as finger allows then resume finger board.

Living Dead next then?