[Bencil]

Hello all,
I’ve come to the realisation that I’m fairly weak open handed. Just to give a rigorous definition of what I mean by open handed: using only front 3 and bending the finger mostly at the last knuckle (DIP joint).

Using the Lattice^tm type testing edge of 20mm I am 95% bw on full crimp and 60% open handed. Giving an open handed bias of -35%. (Tom feel free to message to discuss licencing rights to this exciting new testing metric) 

I’m trying to do some repeater style training to get more comfortable with the grip but I’m finding it painful on the PIP joints. Is there any advice on how to become super strong open handed out there? Or is it more to do with finger geometry and I’m doomed to be an open handed weakling forever?

[Tommy]

 

The first port of call in this instance would be to complete a period of 8-12 weeks of deadhang work primarily working on the open grip position. What I generally see out there is that people are strong in one grip because they spend a lot of time working that grip! You neglect the open 3.... well.... you end up being relatively weak in it. One word of caution that I would add is that doing a lot of max hangs on open 3 can be a bit niggly on the ring finger. Be careful and don't over do it :-)

I used to have huge differences between by open 4 and full closed 4 crimp. Nowadays it's almost identical, but it took at least 18 months of continual careful work.

[SA Chris]

Also it's something you need to mentally get used to. Not only physical, but feeling comfortable open handing is very much a psychological thing, as it's out of your comfort zone.

It took me about 8 months too, especially found it useful doing indoor routes at anything below my limit and deliberately open handing as much as i possibly could, felt hard at first, but soon became used to it.