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Ratikon beta (Read 5843 times)

Ged

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Ratikon beta
May 20, 2017, 06:43:52 pm
Thinking of a week here in the summer. Anyone been? Similar to wenden? Any particular recommendations in the 7's? And any guidebook suggestions? Or have one to sell me?

That's a lot of questions, but any thoughts on the place very welcome

Cheers

Ged

T_B

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#1 Re: Ratikon beta
May 20, 2017, 08:01:57 pm
Caminando was good and properly equipped. Hard first slab pitch. Very fingery and sharp though.
Famously treacherous approach road, but this was 10 years ago. Might be paved now who knows?
Less big and serious feeling than Wenden, though witnessed a massive rockfall that took out the tourist path.
Trad-Sport +

duncan

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#2 Re: Ratikon beta
May 20, 2017, 08:16:19 pm
It's in the Schweiz Extrem Ost guidebook. You have a PM.

T_B, Caminando is at Wendenstock, or is that what you meant?

T_B

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#3 Re: Ratikon beta
May 20, 2017, 08:44:32 pm
Soz even my memory for route names is going. I think the route we did at Ratikon was Infitada 7a+ish and about 8 pitches. Then it rained.

Ged

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#4 Re: Ratikon beta
May 21, 2017, 07:53:12 am
Thanks Duncan

mde

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#5 Re: Ratikon beta
May 23, 2017, 08:20:32 am
I live in Switzerland and have climbed many of the modern Rätikon routes. In fact I even put up two new multipitch routes (Kamala and Prix Garantie). Obviously I could tell a lot about the area and specific routes. Maybe you want to have a look at my blog which has a page with a short summary of all  Rätikon routes I have done (http://mdettling.blogspot.ch/p/fels.html). It is in German, but with an online translator you should get most out of it. Just amused myself by checking it out  ;D (bra=hook=bolt, plate=slab, flat=slabby, heavy=difficult, kick=foothold, wedges=wires, fuse material=protection, tape=ledge, etc.). The page will also provide links to my full reports with many pictures, to fototopos and schematic topos. A few more answers:

Similar to Wenden?

Wenden is more alpine, more rugged, more intimidating. Rätikon feels more relaxed, also the approach resembles more a gently stroll rather than steep scrambling. On average, the climbing at Wenden is more athletic whereas in Rätikon it tends to be more on the feet and technical. At both places you can find routes that are relatively well protected and others which are very demanding.

Guidebooks

There are 3 good guidebooks. Extrem Ost from Filidor is a selection guidebook covering entire Eastern Switzerland. It has the most recent Rätikon coverage and has all modern Rätikon routes comprehensively with up-to-date information. The topos are precise, but not very detailed (i.e. lacking pitch lengths, bolt symbols). Then there is Rätikon Süd from Panico which focuses on this area only, complemented with a few crags in the valley as an alternative if the weather is bad. They have fototopos and schematic topos. The latter have the details (pitch lengths, bolts) but are not overly precise (i.e. often the line is not accurate, etc.). Due to the fototopos, maybe the best option to get you psyched. Finally, there is Kletterführer Graubünden from SAC. It covers the entire canton of Graubünden and has the nicest schematic topos.

Route recommendations

Well, it depends very much on what exactly you want. If relaxed, well-protected multipitch climbing, go for Galadriel (6c+) and Kamala (7a). The same with already a bit more spice can e.g. be found on Achtibahn (7a) and Intifada (7a+). Want to challenge your skills on technical, slabby ground? Go for Hannibals Alptraum (7c) or Via Acacia (7c+). Looking for an easy-to-get 8th grade tick with world fame? Try New Age (8a+). And so on. Honestly I found all routes I did in this area worthwhile. Maybe also the star rating on my page helps:

***** world class, deserves coming from the entire globe
**** european class, deserves coming from entire Europe
*** country class, deserves coming from entire Switzerland
** region class, deserves coming from the closer areas

That's all very subjective, obviously. If you have further questions, don't hesitate to ask.

Ged

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#6 Re: Ratikon beta
May 25, 2017, 03:48:47 pm
Thanks so much for that, just what I needed!

jwi

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#7 Re: Ratikon beta
June 22, 2020, 02:53:27 pm
Salut/Servus !

We're thinking of going to Rätikon and/or Wändestocke this July weather allowing. I am looking for recommendations on routes where my other half can follow the hard pitches without resorting to aid and were the easier pitches are not minimally bolted for the leader of the hardest pitches... I.e. nothing harder than 7b and where the bolting on pitches 6c or harder is safe. We will probably not be home any time before that and have a very minimalistic rack in the car: one set of wires and one set of cams from tiny to camalot #3. Ideally I prefer routes that are less than 350m or so in height.

I have gathered that Galadriel and Intifada are two popular routes in Rätikon, how are the three easiest pitches on Intifada (i.e. the VII pitch and the VIII- pitches)?

General recommendations and hints on logistics such as camping, etc would also be welcome.

(I am aware of mde's blog and I can read German, but it is painful and I cannot process it very quickly these days so if there are other great resources in German please give me some links to spare me scanning the internet myself...)

T_B

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#8 Re: Ratikon beta
June 22, 2020, 03:21:33 pm
It’s a long time since I did Intifada (2004) but I don’t remember it being runout, nor do I recall any easy pitches! Certainly it was a route that got climbed a lot because it was known to be well bolted. The last pitch is a tricky traverse and the rock is very sharp on one of the vertical pitches.

We went to Wenden the same trip but kept being unlucky with afternoon thunderstorms. The walk ins are tough and notoriously steep/dangerous if it’s wet. I took an Alpine axe and didn’t feel stupid. Caminando has an easier walk in though scrambling terrain to the base. Gear is fine on that though I think we only made it 10 pitches up. It’s a serious spot. Be conservative and bail early if it looks like it’s going to thunderstorm - we had a near miss with rockfall. We camped in Innertkirchen but if you can camp/bivi/van at the car park that would be better for early starts.

I think it was Lancelot on the Excalibur wall that we were also stormed off. It had a dustbin lid on the first bolt so that you could spot it from the ground 😬.
« Last Edit: June 22, 2020, 03:41:35 pm by T_B »

duncan

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#9 Re: Ratikon beta
June 22, 2020, 04:02:40 pm
I've done some or all of probably the three easiest routes at Wendenstöcke (Sonnenkönig, Excalibur, and Spasspartout) with AJM. The approaches to the former two were quite exposed and would be very sketchy in the wet. Shoes with a deep cleat are recommended. The approach to Spasspartout and, from the looks of it, the rest of Reissend Nollen was much more benign. I have since discovered the Excalibur pillar has a reputation for stonefall, though we didn't experience any.

Other than the routes in Parois de légende, Patent Ochsner is reputedly very good, relatively well bolted, and was popular with non-locals when we were there. 

I think it was Lancelot on the Excalibur wall that we were also stormed off. It had a dustbin lid on the first bolt so that you could spot it from the ground 😬.

This could be Patent Oschner, the name refers to brand of Swiss rubbish bins.

Camping Gadmen, the campsite by the main road, was not outrageously expensive by Swiss standards. The patron claims to have climbed Excalibur dozens of times. Many people camp at the head of the toll-road, either in vans or putting up small tents for the night only. I can suggest other discrete wild camping options if this is helpful.

I thought the place was world-class, combining Verdon quality rock and Dolomites quality scenery, and I'm very keen to return.  I've not been to Ratikon. It can rain a lot.

.
« Last Edit: June 22, 2020, 04:23:50 pm by duncan »

T_B

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mde

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#11 Re: Ratikon beta
June 26, 2020, 01:52:43 pm
Rätikon: for an "easy" day head for Galadriel (11p, 6c+ max, 6b obl) or Kamala (9p, 7a, 6b obl). A step up are Achtibahn (8p, 7a max, 6c+ obl), Sabra (8p, 7a max, 6c obl) and Intifada (8p, 7a+ max, 6c obl). All are reasonably well bolted and require at most a small rack. The first pitch of Intifada is a delicate smooth slab, many avoid it by using the first pitch of Lilith. And the last pitch is a big traverse, requiring something also from the second. If you're fit, you could also go for Lilith (7c+, very well bolted).

It's a sensitive area and technically, camping is only allowed either in the small car park that is quickly full or next to the KCR hut (which is a nice place to stay, it's unattended and you need to organize the keys beforehand). Nevertheless, many people just doss in their vans near the end of the road... and yes, it's a very bumpy, rough and unpaved road (as you'd find it in the Briancon area) that takes around 45 minutes from the valley floor.

Wenden: some of the most popular routes include Patent Ochsner (7a), Sternschnuppe (6c+), Excalibur (6b+), Elefantenohr (short section of 7c+, the rest easier), Caminando (7a+) and Millenium (7b). All resonably bolted and at most requiring a small rack, except for Excalibur that requires a full rack (but not more). The one route to try if you want something more difficult but well protected would be Ben Hur (7c+).

There is a camping a 10 minute drive away at Gadmen that can well be recommended. Technically no camping is allowed at the parking, but same as for Rätikon, many people choose to doss in their vans there...

jwi

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#12 Re: Ratikon beta
August 18, 2020, 10:44:20 am
...
Other than the routes in Parois de légende, Patent Ochsner is reputedly very good, relatively well bolted, and was popular with non-locals when we were there. 

...

I thought the place was world-class, combining Verdon quality rock and Dolomites quality scenery, and I'm very keen to return.  I've not been to Ratikon. It can rain a lot.

This is correct. Patent Ochsner is an amazing route, with Céuse quality rock (but maybe not quite Dolomites quality scenery). The fifth pitch is probably the best 6c pitch I have climbed. The second 7a pitch was tricky and required a lot of forbearance to onsight. After a 4 year hiatus I have started to write some blog posts again (temporarily, I'm sure), and did a write up of Patent Ochsner here

Rätikon is a lot less serious with regards to exposure to objective dangers, much more like road side cragging. We only had time to do a warm-up route (mde's Kamala) before weather and work responsibilities conspired to impede further play.


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#13 Re: Ratikon beta
August 18, 2020, 10:55:52 am
Great blog!

duncan

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#14 Re: Ratikon beta
August 18, 2020, 02:24:01 pm
Thanks, great write-up. I know it’s not very 2020 but you should keep blogging.

Shame about the Hasse-Brandler but unfortunately it’s 5+ obl. which doesn’t keep the riff-raff off. I’m confident Wendenstock has better climbing if not quite the scenery or the stories.

jwi

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#15 Re: Ratikon beta
August 18, 2020, 04:05:53 pm
I’m confident Wendenstock has better climbing...
I'm confident Wenden has better climbing then pretty much everywhere, if not weather.

Ces falaises d’altitude sont sans aucun doute les plus belles des Alpes. as Bodet & Petit writes.

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#16 Re: Ratikon beta
August 18, 2020, 05:43:59 pm
Sshhhh! Don't tell the riff raff

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#17 Re: Ratikon beta
August 18, 2020, 06:21:55 pm
Wenden has been on my list for ages, but I'm totally rubbish at that vertical limestone stuff, so it might need to be a longer trip...shame!

Tip for future - if BH is busy, ISO200 is actually a very nice route. It's not the BH, but it's definitely worthwhile, and you rap off after 8 or 9 pitches so it's not even comitting.

jwi

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#18 Re: Ratikon beta
August 18, 2020, 07:13:50 pm
Wenden has been on my list for ages, but I'm totally rubbish at that vertical limestone stuff, so it might need to be a longer trip...shame!

The one route we did in Wendenstöcke was fairly athletic, not your average vertical limestone techy climbing. I gather that most routes are fairly athletic. I think most people can climb at their regular level straight away. A good thing as you will have to be incredibly lucky to get a spell of good weather.

Rätikon on the other hand has some nightmarish friction slab climbing. Every non-local seems to get spanked by Intifada. Maybe better to stick to harder routes and install one of those ridiculous lines of fixed rope over the entire route...

 

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