Otoh we have single bolt lower-offs in the Frankenjura & most people seem to be fine with those.
I usually lower to the bolt below, clove hitch rope into harness (thus attaching me to bolt above) and use a sling or QD to attach myself to current bolt. Lower a loop of rope to partner so I can haul up the clip stick, then reclimb (or haul) back up to bolt above.
Bolting wise i remember a few things in the fj which were on the fine line between acceptable and dangerous.
Quote from: ghisino on May 10, 2017, 06:49:55 amBolting wise i remember a few things in the fj which were on the fine line between acceptable and dangerous. Same concern for me on a route I’m looking at at the moment. There’s a bolt that had a very loose hanger – I tightened the nut up, but I don’t know enough about types of bolt to know whether that means it’s now ok again. There are hard moves above and to the right of the bolt, I wonder if swinging falls might be unscrewing it? Otoh I don’t think it’s a route that sees much traffic.The route has cool moves and I’d quite like to do it. But the (maybe) dodgy bolt is the first and fairly high; if it fails you’re unlikely to die but you’d get hurt for sure. I’m not sure whether it’s worth it.Sorry miso for the OT – but it’s not that OT, it’s still about judgement of safety margins in sport climbing.