[fried]

M - Indoors at a new wall just near mine, OK but crammed and far too hot, was bank holiday though. Won't be changing my annual contract next year  https://nation.arkose.com/

Tu/W/Th - Nothing

Fr - Indoors, felt good, but didn't seem to be performing as well as I've done in the last couple of sessions, don't know why.

Sa - rest

Su - Nervously waiting election results...bank holiday again tomorrow...hoping for some wind..bit damp.

[tomtom]

Thanks for starting the thread Fried.

M: Lakes - and drive back. Baby slept for two hours on the way back - so ended up not going to sleep until 9pm :/
T: Busy day at work - lots to do, grant proposal due in on Weds..
W: See above.

Th: First time to go climbing (properly) for a while - ten days really... So headed up to the Wiltons to put my 'project' (Bone Down 7B+) to bed... Except I didnt.. I swore a fucking lot and it didnt help at all Also, someone has over patio'd the bottom of Burnley Chip Shop, burying the SS. Anyway, enough Wiltonerica... Having decided my crimp was done in, I headed over to W3 and played on Soft Shoe Shuffle (7A slab..) came frustratingly close. Had to pack up when my toes started hurting too much. Overall, my abscence from climbing was noticed in my form...

Fri: Nothing

Sa: Wifes cousin was over for the weekend so pottering around Manchester... alright day - but would have been a great climbing day - 13 degrees overcast and windy...

Su: Bright fantastic sunshine. Oh crap. I wanted to get back to the Wiltons, but it was also shooting day... Sun isnt such a problem for the problems I wanted to do, as they are buried in a dank corner that never sees direct sunlight (maybe at 7am - I dunno..). But the gun clubs mean no climbing if they're in. On advice from Tim, I waited until about 2pm and headed up. Firing in W3, but not 2 and 4. Nice warm up in 4 (did another 6 I'd not done before) then headed into 2 to re-acquaint myself with 'Bone Down'

OK - so this problem is a bit anti my style. It involves, crimping the fuck out of a 5mm sidepull at shoulder height. LH on a average 5-7mm two finger wide edge (at an angle to horizontal). RF smear on a marginally better than fuck all, fuck all ripple at knee height... Pull bloody hard, hope (a) the RF stays on the smear and (b) your RH doesnt ping off the crimp. Then jump LF onto a 5p size edge then stand up, LH up to sloper, then bounce to big positive edge/crimp... Right foot up to a low heel then gently rock over onto the heel and up...

Thats rather a long and boring description - but at any stage in the process that RF or RH is likely to ping off. I have to shout at myself (internally) 'BELIEVE' that the crimps and smears will stick before bouncing on. I try different shoes, micro adjustments of hands, but basically its pull bastard hard and somehow get the balance between all three bits of contact... So I tried for about 45 min today - and was getting tired/out of skin and angry with the rock. I started trying looking at different feet or hands when trying I don't know - all sorts of things. By now I had developed an almost OCD like (think Nadal bouncing the ball for 30 seconds before a serve) routine of getting the holds and micro adjusting before trying to pull on. I got annoyed with myself - and internally thought just pull on and pull hard. So I did. And sailed to the top. 10 seconds - all over. Success is a strange one in bouldering -sometimes its a real battle (on the sucessful ascent) - sometimes it takes you by surprise and sometimes its just through sheer belligerence... No idea where this one sits. Anyway - job done - first new 7B+ of the year.

[nai]

Hope your towels and drink bottles were arranged in good order, Tom. Otherwise, no tick.

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk

[shark]

Thanks fried

11.2-4

M.Malham Paul Steve Keith. Bank hol Monday Changeable weather. Warm when we got there and busy. Led Appetite and Taking the Space. Just decided to have a nice day of it. Saltbeef, Dal, Maddy and Tanya all lined up to try Oak. Actually worked fine and was fun having a team go. Go 1 Climbed to undercut by third bolt straight off from cold but a bit rubbish after so came down. Much more traction on skin and rock. Go 2 ground to touching horn Go 3 same Go 4 same and then did throw to most of way past traverse i.e. Past redpoint crux. Go 5 Couldn't even do first popfrom ground! Skin so much better today and not sore. Good temp but would have been better with breeze. Just used new blancos. More optimistic so committed to going Friday

T.

W,

T.

F. Malham. PM. With Paul, Keith and Steve. Got there 2.30pm? Bit lighter. Sunny at start. Cool later but wasn't getting the breeze unfortunately so good but not mint. Appetite and Taking the Space to warm up in the shade. Go 1 Warm go. Concentrated on the throw doing it three times. Go 2, 3 and 4 Ground to almost but not quite latching horn (ie better than flailing and touching it on Monday) Go 5 As getting dark Felt busted but got to setting up for throw from ground, then throw to coming into sidepull on top traverse and undercut shake to top ie overlapping thirds which was much better than last go on Monday when I couldn't even do the first move! Back to car at 9.40pm

S.

S. AM Went to Rim area of Stanage as not been before and had a useful looking smatetringh of mid/low grade problems for Tommy. Lovely day. Did Rim Traverse 6A+ but failed on Extrension 6B+ (more like 7A). Then failed to commit on a highabll 6B roof with an awkward landing but did a short V4 round the side. Felt pretty byusted after to be honest.

Things more positive Oakwise. Weight heading down. Not drunk for the 3 weeks so going to celebrate with a glass or two of wine with my dinner now 

[nai]

Bollocking shitty fuck balls.


Mon - back felt good - max hangs - might  not have helped but could still function. Stretching


tue - nowt, back stiff to start but loosened up, stiff again Eve. More Stretching


Wed - 4x10mins AeroCap. Yet more Stretching


Thu - hobbled into a massage and skipped out a new man and armed with some new stretches


Fri - 6x10mins AeroCap. Stretches


S - nowt, back stiff to start but loosened up, lots of stretching and foam rolling - stiff again Eve


Sun - curious - unable to put socks on first thing. Expected things to loosen up but instead it went into full spasm and at 10am I collapsed on the floor and spent the next 8 hours unable to stand. Wife found some old codeine from last time which helped enough to get me hobbling round for a few hours but now back down looking forward to a night on a yoga mat. Did I swear already?



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[T_B]

Rubbish!

Have you seen Louise (Myofacial release therapist) before? It's 5 months now since I've had any problems, last year my back was going into spasm every 3 months...

[petejh]

STG: Send existing projs at Crag X (NI), Mega Crag X (NI),  First 8b+ (Mecca), spring
MTG: Continue bolting/sending new routes at Mega Crag X (spring-summer). Explore more of Ireland. Projs on G.Orme, Gideon and L.Ormes (late summer after birds have left)
LTG: 8c, by June 2018

Effort TT on first 7B+ of the year.
Sounds like progress Shark you'll soon be on redpoint (seriously sounds good, I'm predicting you'll float up it very soon)
That sucks Nai, been there lots of times over the years. MAT (look up Douglas Heel) is worth a punt for rapid relief if you can find a physio locally.

M. Tor, Mecca sesh 3. Decent sesh - first go up working out way to save 2 foot moves on traverse by outside flagging. 2nd go up linked undercuts to holding ear but not holding the barn door. And worked kneebar moves but managed to strain groin by kneebarring - wtf, do I have to injure every part of me before moving forwards each time! Shows how unused I am to the black arts of knee-cheatery. 3rd go up nothing to write home about. Kettlebell workout back home.
T. Core/mobility sesh.
W. Craig y Forwyn after work. Good to brush off the trad rack and trad head for a bit of aero fitness. Seconded 'Freedom' E2. Led Sangfroid Direct E3 - Moffatt route. Good evening. S.D. is ace, that's all the E1s -4s done on the crag now apart from those buried in ivy (and Crazy Horses, which I suspect is a Pollitt sandbag). Looking forward to more sessions here and cleaning up some of the other routes.
T.
F. Boardroom. Moonboard. Quick sesh. Did 4 probs 6C+ to 7A+ all flashed or second go including flashing the 7A+s. Defo getting better on the board.
S. Morning ferry to Dublin. Met friends and they gave me a tour of a new sea cliff being developed south of the city, looks impressive but sea was too rough to climb. Spent rest of the afternoon bouldering at The Scalp - cool roadside granite venue. Did Ricky's highball 'warmup', very nice. Tried Space Machine - beautiful problem, total classic. Couldn't do make left hamstring engage enough for the heel/rollover move, would love to come back to this. Did Dark Angle sit start. Evening ferry back to Wales. Feeling down on way over and way back. Middle of the day was good.
S. Wanted to try Mecca but didn't find partner so stayed home. 20min run round hill behind house. Neck weights 20Kg. MAT.

[tomtom]

That sounds rubbish Nai

[T_B]

M -
T - Lunch Autobelays. 3 x 6a+, 2 x 6b, 2 x 6c, 4 x 7b+, 1 x 6a+. Timed the 7b+ trying to do it as slow as possible - 4 mins 50 secs).
W - Am run
T - PM Was supposed to go traddin but mate hurt his knee and pulled out. Deliberated then decided on Tor. Didn't get there until 7.15pm, though had warmed up a bit at home on the board. Got stuck straight into PUTPBand. Felt decent on couple of warm up half attempts, then had maybe half a dozen attempts. Never got as far as properly holding the split crimp. P/Band feeling ridiculously easy but as soon as I starting heading upwards I'm just not strong enough in the arms. Pissed off. Last to leave the crag after a million goes on u/cut-sloper and still not doing it (tho pretty close).
F - Lunch run
S -
S Am run.

Feeling strong in all areas except locking strength due to not being able to really train it this past month cos of dodgy shoulder. I reckon I just need a few campus sessions/assisted one armers on rings. But I dunno if I can be arsed anyway. So, ironically it's not my fingers letting me down but my ability to do the big pull through moves, which are normally a strength.

Ou est mon mojo? I've seemingly lost it. Weird.

[nai]

Rubbish!

Have you seen Louise (Myofacial release therapist) before? It's 5 months now since I've had any problems, last year my back was going into spasm every 3 months...

Where does she work? Been having massage at hallamshire physio, felt great after the session on Thursday but maybe overdid it on Friday.

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[T_B]

She's based out near Oughtibridge I think but she's mobile and can come to you. I'll pm you her number.

[shark]

She's based out near Oughtibridge I think but she's mobile and can come to you. I'll pm you her number.

Can you PM me it too.

[Nibile]

Mon - weights, boxing bag.
Tue - rest.
Wed - board climbing, nothing special. Tried to reacquaint myself with another long standing project but didn't do well. Nasty front2 full crimp and shoes with no more edge stopped play early. Cleans 46 kg 5 + 10 x 5. Strong and fast.
Thu - climbing class.
Fri - deadlifts, 108 kg x 5, 5, 10 (PB), 7, 7. Nearly passed out.
Sat - boxing bag. Brilliant.
Sun - one arm hangs on San Hold (+ 8 kg front3) and Lattice Edge (+ 8 kg but not 5 seconds). Not bad at all. Board climbing, nothing special.

Some brilliant sessions this week, particularly the deadlift PB and the boxing bag session on Saturday. The one arm hangs weren't bad either, I feel that I have some more in the tank than what I'm doing, especially on the Lattice Edge, but I need to sort out the rotaion issue. As soon as I start moving my pinky pops off.
Back to 19/20 degrees now. Season definitely over.
I have eaten and drunk far too much this week.

[duncan]

nai - owowow!
tt - well done.

STG: Don’t break. Bounce and twist. Deposit a 1200 move session in the Banco Resistencia Continental in 4 weeks time. Place some gear.
MTG: Don’t break. Work a 7b. Classic sea-cliff E5 this August.
LTG: 7b RP. Others tbc.

M - Drive back from Zaragoza, flight back from Barcelona
T - Westway routes aerocap. 250m/500 moves
W -
T - Westway routes aerocap. 300m/600 moves
F - Shoulder exercise
S - Shoulder exercises
S - Shoulder exercises. Sick and tired.

Busy week with family young and old in hospitals. Two good resistencia sessions. Had hoped to get away this weekend, N. Wales sounds like it is great, but life got in the way.

Plan: more volume work. Unfortunately Westway autobelays are out of commission, reasons unspecified, and there's no bouldering as it’s all being redeveloped. I’ll have to find partners available afternoons (anyone interested?) or pay money to go to another wall (against my principles!).  Would be good to do some trad. quite soon as I’ve not placed gear for 7 months.

[tommytwotone]

STG - get fit enough to...
LTG - Font 7anything


M - bank holiday fetes at both pubs in the village. Went to (and drank in) both.
T - Climbing Lab eve. Went for volume so climbed all (50-60 I think) problems sub V2.
W - Gym session lunch - 200 rep workout. 25 pullups, 50 bodyweight deadlifts, 50 pressups, 50 60cm box jumps, 25 clean and press @ 20kg. 27min 50sec.
T - quite bad DOMS.
F - still quite bad DOMS.
S - had pass to climb all day, then it got revoked, then I got a chance to go so shot to The Depot. Bit of an unfocused session pottering, did a purple (V5-V7) in two goes.
S - Swimming with Una first thing otherwise not a great deal.

[csl]

STG - may
7B
5 days outside - 1/5
Do something good in Font

MTG - september
7C
cassin on piz badile/comici on cima grande

LTG - this time next year
not sure


Monday

Nothing

Tuesday

Arch B1

Unfocused session, tried lots of stuff but not much progress on anything.

Wednesday

nothing

Thursday

Arch B1

Good session, no pain in elbow

all but 4 of the new set
1 other red (v4-6) that i hadn't done before

Friday

Nothing

Saturday

Nothing

Sunday

Couple of hours at Bowles. Good conditions, shame I was so hungover + hadn't had much sleep. Tried a 7B called Maybe When You're Older, got all the moves quickly but too tired to link it. Also fell off the last move of Banana Hammock 6C a lot, annoying! On my way back home by 9.30am.

Hopefully off to N. Wales on the weekend if the weather is good, any 7B recommendations? Ok for solo visit with not many pads

[Coops_13]

STG: Keep training with other drinking plans 
MTG: 7C
LTG: 8A

M: Font day three. Canche aux Merciers after a lot of rain the night before. Did Radio Crochet 7A fairly quickly and a dyno called Keo 7A. Took more time to do La Grande Marche 7A+, really good problem. Not a skin-wrecker either so maybe one for your list Will?
T:
W: Indoors, really good session on the 55. Progressed on all projects and came up with a new one.
T:
F: 
S: Fingerboard session in the local park before driving to Birmingham for wedding 
S: Churnet, v hungover. Did Fingers and the sit fairly quickly (7A, 7A+). Failed on a number of others... Did a 6C then flashed a 6C+ at Grasshopper block to finish

All this drinking is not helping my climbing and I'm off to Edinburgh Thursday to Sunday to watch the European Rugby finals...

[36chambers]

M:
T: First indoor session in ~8 weeks. Just pottered around.
W:
T: Evening at Brimham. Climbed The Fonze 8A YYFY!! Finally managed an 8 not at the cliff!
F:
S: Caley. Brief hangover session. Had a play on Pedestal Arete Sit 7C, got into the stand holds a few times but was fluffing the last moves.
S: Big day at Great Wolfrey. Climbed Totally Gasless 7A, Pitt Problem 7A and Full Moon Rising 7B as seen in the recent New Stone video, all very good. Note to self: don't go to moorland crags with thin skin.

Shoulder still not great.

[psborland]

Nai that sucks, hope it improves for you.

Rest week last week.
M.
T.
W. low intensity bouldering . core and stretching.
Th.
F. Core routine b;  3 rounds.
S.
su. Back on Countdown. low section steady now with a re-think. couldn't quite stick the crux rest is ok. 1 move stopping me but didn't feel like it was getting closer. Not sure whether to spend another session on it. .. Mate wanted to give up so packed up early wandered back via cornice, lots going on down there . Also a team at the nook.

[Duma]

Hope back improves Nai

Goals:
8A (Hunters Roof? Godzilla?)and 8b by June. These are looking increasingly unlikely, esp the 8b, might have to be pushed back till after Rocklands.
In shape for SA in summer.

Body Audit: DIP joint on RH bit tweakier than normal, been icing and seems to be improving
Sleep: Decent.
69.5kg

M: Redpoint, Good to go to a different wall, really good session despite spending the BH mostly indoors. Warm up and play on a few slabs, then triples in the cave (3 x 8 move problem with minimal rest, 4 min rest between sets, 3 sets). Couple of one arm hangs, then core stuff to finish. (~7.5hrs, 2dk)
T: nothing (~7hrs, 2dk)
W: TCA, Jonny had started setting the new hard circuit (Orange) so went for a play on those. Only 7 up so far, managed them all, prob a few 7's and one at 7B+/C. Felt like was back up to par for first time in a month or so. Fun session, always good to have new tricky stuff to do. (~7hrs, 2dk)
T: Biblins after work, was quite doable hr and half drive. Good to be out on lovely eve, repeated The Bulge (7A) a couple of times warming up, then did what I think was School of Burl (7B) in a couple of goes, though might have done different start? Then on to Godzilla (8A+?), really happy to manage move to finishing hold in a few goes, tap match but didn't hold the position, though not far off I think. Did all the other moves and also managed to link from one move in to touching (not holding) final hold. It's six hand moves including the match, really psyched for this to feel possible, had played on the moves last year but didn't feel at all doable. Three nine did some stupid looking link up too. (~7hrs, 1dk)
F: TCA, only had an hour but wanted to get back on the oranges now rest of circuit up. Pretty successful though feeling it third day on, did 10 more, nothing hard really, all between 6B+ and 7A I guess. (~7.5hrs, 1dk)
S: TCA with daughter, just active rest for me. (~8hrs, 0dk)
S: Took daughter out on her bike, again bit of active rest. (~7hrs, 5dk)

Much better week, decent training on Mon, feeling good on the new hard circuit at TCA, and a new possibility at Biblins. Managed to stay the right side of 70kg too.

[Luke Owens]

M: Lunch:
Max hangs: Open crimp - 20mm edge
R1: 10s (0kg),
R2: 10s (+5kg),
R3: 10s (+10kg)
R4: 6s (+15kg)
R5 8s (+12.5)

T: Lunch: Various Antags

Eve: Pantymwyn - First time back a month after I injured myself on Panty's sit.  Had a really long warm up and got back on Panty's sit. Got to the heel hook on the lip move 5 times but for some reason that move which previously felt fine now feels tricky and weird yet the sit start moves and the crux of the stand start feel miles easier. Happy that the hard moves are easier, reckon I should do it next sesh. Best thing about the session was pulling on the 2 finger pocket completely pain free!

W: Rest - Preping for interview

T: Rest - Had interview

F: Left the house late when the kids were in bed with the soul intention of going to do King of Drunks. Long and late drive over to the mountains. Took a few goes and did it around 10pm. Amazing problem! Not the hardest I've ever done nor did it take very long but I've wanted to do it ever since I bought the NWB guide about 6 years ago but never got around to it, means a lot. Got home at 11:30pm, late, but it beats sitting on the sofa all evening any day!



S: Rest - Knackered, Toys R Us mission.

S: Alton Towers/Cbeebies Land with the kids, psyched isn't enough to describe kids when they enter that place... great weather, awesome day!

[nik at work]

M - Nothing
T - Traverse wall, can't remember exactly what I did but it was several traverses...
W - Nothing
T - Went  for a run, fuck knows why...
F - Sore legs Evening at the Bat Cave, having a play on Dougs project (circa 8b/+), glorious weather but too hot for the crux crimp. Only a short session as my skin is woeful for some reason right now.
S - Sore legs...
S - Sore legs... Odd day, felt really out of sorts (probably not the place for this but discovered that a friend from uni had been murdered) went out "climbing" in the evening but ended up just sitting on a rock looking at the sea.

Anyway:
Nice one Luke on King of Drunks and 36Chambers on The Fonze
Get well soon Nai

[Sasquatch]

M-Yoga, FB, STR workout.
T-Yoga
W-Outside - managed to move a bit of rock and do a new 7C/+ish FA. 
T-Notta - Feeling tired and unmotivated. 
F-FB-Max hangs, decent session.  Cinco De Mayo Party
S-deconstruct bathroom
S-Hike 2 hrs, and start reconstructing bathroom

Feeling quite unmotivated this week, and need to buck up...  the season is in full swing, and I'm just 

[James Malloch]

Missed last week but I've not done much really over the past two. Had two wall sessions which, to be fair, were good. Some new board problems and managed to get quite a few of the new Purple Depot Session.

Also had a Lattice Assessment two weeks ago which was hugely interesting:

Weight 68.6kg


Finger Strength Test

One arm hangs: -15kg RH, -12.5kg LH.
Finger strength test came out at 83% of bodyweight held.
This came out around my current grades (V6 / 7b) and there's lots of room for improvement. It's not something I've addressed much so I think it's something I can improve reasonable quickly.


Aerobic efficiency / power endurance:

51 moves on first maximum attempt - equated to ~8a grade so probably my strongest area.


Aerobic Function:

Moves for the max tests: 51 - 38 - 26 - 16 - 11 - 8 - 6
Decay rate was pretty bad here (-0.35). Aim is to have rep 3 as high, or better than rep 2 or a decay of less than 20%.


Anerobic Function:

This came out 14% which was bad for the goals I have, apparently.


Muscular stuff:

Largely okay but my hamstrings are shit. Ollie thinks he can get me touching my toes within a month. Once work settles down I'm going to take the challenge.


I'm not very good with the whole energy system stuff so any thoughts or additional insights would always be welcomed!

[nai]

I'm not very good with the whole energy system stuff so any thoughts or additional insights would always be welcomed!

Are you taking one of their programs or looking at constructing your own?

[James Malloch]

I'm undecided at the moment (need to get back to them on it). Work has been manic recently so I've put off training so starting one straight away wouldn't have been sensible. From 1 June my work slows down so I'm going to up my training for some autumn trips / late Malham season.

I guess if I go through them there should be support in the understanding side of things also.

Recently I've been focusing on strength work a bit more (board climbing and some campusing which has led to noticeable gains. I built a structure based on Barrows' PDF which was going well but I wondered if I might get more from something built specific for my aims / lattice results.

[user deactivated]

No specific goals at the moment but get stronger and fitter. Trying a 2:1 sport - trad days to get some variety in there!

Tue- endurance laps and some core exercises on the depot circuit board

Sat- cheedale- went to the upper tier and tried vision of loveliness. 1st go- did the moves. 2nd go linked a few sections / failed Redpoint. 4th go- ouch!

This thing feels pretty tough for 7c+, no moves as hard as Orange sunshine but sustained crimping to a font 7a pull after the break. Anyone had an easy time on it or got vital beta I'd be keen to know others opinions?

Cheers

[nai]

Everyone I know who's done/tried it says it's tough for 7c+ or that it's 8a.  Keen to get on it, everyone also raves about how good it is.

[36chambers]

Anyway:
Nice one Luke on King of Drunks and 36Chambers on The Fonze
Get well soon Nai

cheers

[user deactivated]

Everyone I know who's done/tried it says it's tough for 7c+ or that it's 8a.  Keen to get on it, everyone also raves about how good it is.

Cheers Ian, yeah there's some good moves on it and the glue doesn't bother me - tricky right to the last move that's for sure. Harder / more sustained than other 7C+'s appart from maybe Minos which is tough also.

[T_B]

It was originally given 8a.

Downgraded to 7c+ after Jon Barton did it IIRC*.

*I may have made that up, but it was something like that.

[nai]

Minos Mehnos. Hard and not that good. Crux crimp broke last year too so even harder and nastier than it was.
How does it compare to abberation?

Edit: must be harder, abbo hasn't got anything approaching a 7A section on it.

[user deactivated]

When I did Minos I thought it was 7B to start then French 7c, I've not done aberration but have done the crux which is significantly easier than Minos and Vision of loveliness unless I'm missing something. So Minos and Vision are both harder than call of nature for example. Nice story about the downgrade there Tom. 

[nai]

Grades Grades Fucking Grades.

[Bonjoy]

I did Vision when it was given 8a. I did think it was overgraded at the time, but it may have changed since, this is Peak limestone after all. It certainly felt easier than bloody Tier Drop Explodes. I do remember thinking VoL was a good route despite all the holds bar about one being glued or made of glue.

[user deactivated]

There's a few bits of glue with no holds attached Jon particularly around the crux, so it maybe that. 7c+ on peak routes is the 7B+ of peak bouldering. Non of it is 8a but it's actually harder than some of the 8a's.

[nai]

7c+ on peak routes is the 7B+ of peak bouldering. Non of it is 8a but it's actually harder than some of the 8a's.

I keep thinking I understand then realise
I don't. Could you explain?

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk

[user deactivated]

7c+ on peak routes is the 7B+ of peak bouldering. Non of it is 8a but it's actually harder than some of the 8a's.

I keep thinking I understand then realise
I don't. Could you explain?

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk

Haha that's my point, while Vision isn't 8a it may be harder than some 8a's in the same way west side story is 7B+

[shark]

It was originally given 8a.

Downgraded to 7c+ after Jon Barton did it IIRC*.

*I may have made that up, but it was something like that.

I think it was Rob Barker flashing it after Ru? and Jon Barton were moaning how hard it was. Suitably motivated they both redpointed it straight after. Or something like that...

[webbo]

Mon. Bike intervals 17 efforts.
Tue. Nothing
Wed. Nothing.
Thu. Board just did a lot of easier stuff, having not climbed for 3 weeks.
Fri. Bike 75.05 miles 4 hrs 27 mins.
Sat. Board struggling did some repeaters to finish. Twinged  my back when I fell off. Looking at houses in the afternoon.
Sun. Bike 18.01 miles 1 hr 3 mins

[Doylo]

It was originally given 8a.

Downgraded to 7c+ after Jon Barton did it IIRC*.

*I may have made that up, but it was something like that.

I think it was Rob Barker flashing it after Ru? and Jon Barton were moaning how hard it was. Suitably motivated they both redpointed it straight after. Or something like that...

I did it just before it got downgraded. Felt similar to other 8as.