[duncan]

a metre a move is way too much I reckon

Live from The Westway

Autobelay routes in the 5-6a range have around 20-24 hand movements in c. 11m of height gain. Two moves per metre for me.

Question for jwi: how many sessions a week were you doing?

[Johnny Brown]

Hmm, 360m of continuous climbing in gloves... I suppose you could solo Orion face?

[seankenny]

a metre a move is way too much I reckon

Live from The Westway

Autobelay routes in the 5-6a range have around 20-24 hand movements in c. 11m of height gain. Two moves per metre for me.

Question for jwi: how many sessions a week were you doing?

I am liking your empiricism.

[jwi]

a metre a move is way too much I reckon

Live from The Westway

Autobelay routes in the 5-6a range have around 20-24 hand movements in c. 11m of height gain. Two moves per metre for me.

Question for jwi: how many sessions a week were you doing?

I had a good base when I did it. I did around 1 session of bouldering and 4-5 sessions of high volume per week.

[jwi]

This entire thread kinda validates my choice to bouldering.

I love to break this to you: I know people who never had done anything else than bouldering in all their life and wasn't planning to ever tie in, but got talked in to trying a 4 week high volume base block. They all had better gains in the season that followed than they'd had for years. (N<<10 so take what you will from this).

[Johnny Brown]

Am I allowed to solo 30 routes at Stanage or does the descending count as rest?

[cowboyhat]

Am I allowed to solo 30 routes at Stanage or does the descending count as rest?

Wearing gardening gloves?

What about footwear?

[Muenchener]

Do these 600(++) moves all have to be in one block, or can you just do lots of easy routes?

[jwi]

You can split this anyway you like.

[Duma]

You can split this anyway you like.

But even if your local wall is sizable, that's an awful lot of routes (20+) and will take aaages esp if you're swapping with a partner (obvs auto belays would mitigate this)

[T_B]

You need to be on an Autobelay ideally.  I can do 25 routes (not just easy ones) in an hour (5 x sets of 5). Routes in the furnace @ The Foundry are c25 moves.

[Muenchener]

Definitely. I was alternating with a partner last night from about 19:30 to 22:30 and we got a dozen routes done totalling around 180 metres, so ~360 moves by Duncan's metric (which seems about right). We weren't sitting around chatting either, just going from one route to the next and alternating. With a bit of having to look for free routes in between - the wall was absolutely packed for the first two hours.

None of my local walls have autobelays, so that option isn't open to me.

[jwi]

For getting volume in on lead climbing walls try climbing up-down-up-down-up on each rope (ideally there is a route about two-three UIAA grades lower for downclimbing).

[jwi]

As in multi pitch climbing, it's the changeovers that waste most time

Sent from my HUAWEI VNS-L31 using Tapatalk

[Muenchener]

I didn't say it was easy. Or fun. And seriously, if you never did any high volume stuff before, get gloves. Otherwise you'll skin most of your hands.

I had my first go at this today, as the start of my base mileage phase for going to Kaly in the Autumn. Made it to 530 moves (15 circuits) before pain stopped play. Will definitely consider gloves next time. And comfier shoes.

It is rather tiring isn't it?