[tomtom]

Salutations earthlings...
Weight up a bit hovering around 11.4...

M: eh? In laws visit. (I like them - its OK - but visitors innit) Pretended to be Sharks 'partner' when he looked around a house near me. He wouldn't hold hands...

Tu: Smallfield roof with Plattsy. Good afternoon... Ticks included (using Peakbouldering grading...) Lagerlout (7A) (its not 7A - and I had two huge dabs on it - so its not ticked - but anyway); Dancing Man (7A+) (I found this the hardest of all the problems I did - but managed it static - just); Dancing Man LH (7B) (excellent but easier than DM to me..); Dancing Man Direct (7B). Anyway, ego-boosting grades and a great afternoon... (Edit - having just entered my grades on PB.info its changed them all :D shot myself in the grade pyramid foot there!!)

We: bah.. (visitors leave)

Th: Wilton Sectuer Deux. Took me ages to get The Swine (6B+) (superb problem..). Then did Purple something (7A) fine arete - that I just lanked last time, so did it properly this time); Slipstream (7A+) (nice balancy stuff - hard to grade as once the knack was known it was done a few times) - and came really close to Bone Down (7B+) with my RF pinging off twice as my LH nestled on a 'it should be over now' hold (it probably wouldnt have been but anyway..).

Fri: 30 min Yoga.

Sa: My parents arriving at 12:30 - miraculously the baby has a reasonable night - both parents are semi human in the morning - I get up at 7 - negotiate an emergency crag pass and am out of the house by 7:20. Go to Helsby - a bit damp. I was so so so so weak. Took 30-40 min to get past doms/aches/crapness/being cold... then climbed OK for about 25 min - then got knackered. One of those crappy sessions when you just have to grit your teeth and get on with it...

Su: Eat. Baby and Grandparents stuff...

So - doubled the tally on my new 7's grade pyramid in one week. So its a good un... a new project at W2 - though its pretty conditions dependent etc...

[Plattsy]

Haha Dancing Man is now 7B and the traverse into Dancing Man 7A+ on PB.info.

[nai]

Mon - another hour a Bonehill late afternoon.  Was shit and got quite upset about it, had expected to do The Wave after coming so, so close yesterday.  Eventually managed a 6C in the worst style imaginable.

Tue nowt

Wed - Dawn trip to Bearacleave. Great setting, the woods alive with birdsong, deer calls and the drumming of a Woodpecker.  Got lost and was shit but really didn't care.  Loved Waller slab, lots of great techy problems.

Thu nowt

Fri - Another dawn trip to Bearacleave.  Shit again, didn't get lost though.

Sat - drive home. Thought about training but got over it

Sun - Pretty stiff and sore so just AeroCap.  Eve 45 mins yoga.

[jfdm]

Not put anything up on Power club for ages but had a class few days round Bolton.
London living means it's a major task getting out on real rock. Plan of action Brownstones - unjust and boppers 6a/b - impossible in my teens early twenties.

Sun 9th - Up to Liverpool, showed wife all the old students haunts, close to 20 years since last back, lots still same but lots of change too. Got lost on drive from Liverpool to Bolton  , meant quick session at Brownstones. Had about hour - worked on unjust - managed to do problem using chipped holds, didn't feel that hard. Well pleased. Pond area never seen it so wet.

Mon 10th - am Brownstones - worked on Boppers - got close when I last tried this a couple of years ago. Managed it within a handful of goes. Again well pleased. Life starts at 40 I think my climbing career will now kick on, Lappnor here I come.

Tried but couldn't do nexus and digitation, back in the day could walk up these without mats, think that I don't have the head for heights these days.
Enjoyed doing noddys crack, directissma, and dizerit - all lovely problems.

PM went to visit uncle in Preston hooked up with cousin who lives in Longridge - found craig y never been before , and had a 20 minute play. What a brill venue, doesn't really have the views but 40m long? training board. I am pretty crap on the board, so going to work on this so that I can power on down on those holds hopefully in the summer! 

Tues - Walk round Bolton reminiscing, Manchester on train, vist realitives late pm, long drive back to the big smoke

Rest of week - unwell, decorating, muster indoor session at arch north yesterday. Ok but felt tired.

Had great time at Brownstones, being outdoors is fantastic and ticking off those longstanding problems felt brilliant. Moving on rock felt much more enjoyable than the parkour shit at the indoor wall. Next on my tick list Hanks Wall - big step up but you never know!

One thing that did piss me off was road works near Manchester on m6, 3 junctions long.
Also major working going on into liverpool, 2 minute journey taking half an hour

Hope everybody has had a great week.

[Duma]

Goals:
8A (Hunters Roof? Full Power?)and 8b by June
In shape for SA in summer.

Body Audit: nothing above background...
Sleep: Really good this week.
69kg  when I left bristol, but having spent the last few days lazing around at my folks I suspect that will have increased...

M: TCA, trying last black, can do crux move fine in isolation (probably about 50%), but not feeling close to latching it from the start, despite this only adding 2 (not that hard) moves and hitting the gold every go. Annoying. (~7hrs, 1dk)
T: nothing. (~7hrs, 1dk)
W: TCA, still trying last black, no change, no progress. Can't work out why I'm finding it so difficult to finish this one, it's not that hard. Couple of things on the moonboard though, which made me feel better. (~7hrs, 1dk)
T: nothing, aborted wall to see gf (~7hrs, 3dk)
F: Nothing, drive to Cornwall (~7.5hrs, 0dk)
S: nothing (~8hrs, 2dk)
S: nothing (~?hrs, 3dk)

Bit of a lame week, not much time at the wall, and even less success.

[shark]

Pretended to be Sharks 'partner' when he looked around a house near me. He wouldn't hold hands...

One thing could have led to another and I don't think it would have worked out long term. Apart from anything we both already have bad backs

[TobyD]

Monday turbo trainer 20 minutes; easy session of freeform routes up to 7a after 2 cycling days over the weekend
Tuesday turbo trainer 20 minutes
Wednesday turbo trainer 20 minutes, foundry anaerobic capacity (?)
Thursday turbo trainer 20 minutes
Friday turbo trainer 20 minutes intervals; foundry evening- deadhanging, and anaerobic capacity (?)
Saturday  turbo trainer 20 minutes intervals, foundry warm up, repeaters -12kg 7 sets of 7 on, 3 off x6, 3 minute rests. 10 routes- boxed. 50 push ups.
Sunday   turbo trainer 20 minutes intervals, awesome walls circa 16 mostly very easy routes, including leading 2 as psychological rehab. Pleasantly surprised by not feeling remotely nervous on the lead, and not feeling wierd putting on a helmet in a wall. Reflected that there is no logical reason not to, other than vanity and habit. Really, everyone should. After all, road cyclists all (should!) wear helmets, as do track cyclists. NB, this doesn't mean i definitely will always wear one. Can't see any logical reason to drink alcohol either....

Getting really bored with waiting to hear about the operation date, and spending a bank holiday training; fortunately, the weather is not very good by the looks of it, so I'm a bit less gutted about not being in Pembroke. Generally a good week of training though, progression to leading, and deadhanging / repeaters.

[tomtom]

Pretended to be Sharks 'partner' when he looked around a house near me. He wouldn't hold hands...

One thing could have led to another and I don't think it would have worked out long term. Apart from anything we both already have bad backs

[emoji24]I'm off to get a big tub of ice cream and cry all the way through Nalles 9A video

[csl]

Good work jfdm, nice to not be grappling giant green blobs isnt it!

STG - april

- Boulder > 7a
- 3 days outside - 1/3
- Do something good in N. Wales

MTG - end of summer

- Do something good in Font

LTG - this time next year

not sure

Monday

Rest

Tuesday

Arch B1

- Managed a slopey, tenous V6 groove, pretty happy with this as its the sort of thing I'd usually give up on
- Worked on a green V7 - some minor progress
- Repeated a couple of V6 and 7's on the main overhang
- Board: made up a few new problems, and tried some older projects

Wednesday

Rest

Thursday

Arch B1

- Board: Good progress on a few projects, got to the last move of one i've been trying for a while and made some minor progress on the new ones from Tuesday.

Friday

Rest

Saturday

Arch B1

- Social session with GF's family, managed all but 4 of the new set before they arrived though

Sunday

Rest

[T_B]

M - BSMA sess 4. Start felt easier, just couldn't do the foot crossover move. Worked a more reliable sequence for the end. D nearly did it a few times but didn't. First sess where I didn't make any progress.
T - Lunch Wave. Some decent pulling between good holds. PM run.
W - PM drove to N Wales with D.
T - N Wales smash n grab! AM bit of a run around the Pass. Later am, Wavelength (lovely rock/deadpoint/nearly dropped topout), then Dave hurt knee on Lotus. Headed to Corridors of Power (sharp, suits long legs - maybe 7c for me?). Cup of tea at Ynys then drove to Roof of a Baby Buddha, which I've wanted to try for ages. Lovely rock. Basically a rock version of my homeboard. Just about beat it into submission on tired arms/fingers. Probably my most successful bouldering day ever
F -
S - AM Norfolk ran PB for 10k paced by Mrs T_B's bro.
S - PM Homeboard. Did two of my hardest problems and one of the projects. Fingers feeling streng.

Took advantage of family being in Norfolk all week, which coincided with some peaking action.

[Coops_13]

STG: Maintain training momentum
MTG: 7C
LTG: 8A

M: Rest day, swim, fixed hire car
T: Chironico, Nivo Bassa sector. Got 3 7As - Hopper, Triade and La Pioda. Didn't climb well on that day
W: Chironico, Paese sector. Did Aviator 6C+, nice moves. Did Aktifit 7A and a nice 6C to finish. Hot and sweaty conditions
T: Rest day, nice drive around the valley
F: Chironico, Serre Moi Fort sector. Did Karma Police 7A+, failed on Autopilot due to finger strength. Did Selection Door 7A. Drove to Magic Wood in the evening in search of cooler connies.
S: Magic Wood. Spent the morning failing to do Angry Samoa 7B Failed on Valentine's Day 7A+. Did King Kong v quickly and then did a cool 7B above involving bicycles and a drop knee. Fell off the last move of Morganlatte 7B, missed the pad and hit my head on a rock (argument for helmets while bouldering?). Three stitches in a Swiss hospital.
S: Finished off Morganlatte early doors and also did BlindFisch surprisingly quickly to finish the trip!

Really sick trip, probably my best ever boulder trip. Super psyched to get back to the Wood with a bit more crimp strength!

[Murph]

Strong weeks there Tomtom and T_B - impressive

Goals - 7B this and that, weight down etc.

M-rehab
T-lunchtime session at trackside listening to the builders' radio at that house renovation job down below. When will it ever be finished and how much bigger will it get?
Good session really. Strawberries felt easier than ever and I climbed trackside sans shoes. A bit twattish maybe but it was my first 7A, four years ago and back then it was the hardest/best thing ever. Climbing it this way feels the end of something or other. I don't know. For the record, it's genuinely no harder without shoes. Feel free to punter if this upsets you



W-fingerboard, half crimp, 10 second sets on 19mm with +40.5kgs. Also tried lazy hang on 14mm with same, but only managed 4s. So I'm not as strong as last years peak but am also 6-7kgs heavier so maybe underlying strength isn't lagging too much.
T-works. Really enjoyable wasps session. Only managed maybe 8-10 of them but tested myself.
F-nowt
S-unplanned return to Blackwell Dale. Repeated Short Problem/Fossil Wall Start (IMO the easiest 7A int' Peak) and Swing Time, the easiest 7A+. But what do I know? Also gave Man of Steel a couple of goes but couldn't Man up for the move. Hadn't expected to go there so was nice to have spent some time. Plan now is to get MoS wired and then get back on Advanced Training and finish what I started last year.
S-fuck me I ate a lot of chocolate. 2-3,000 calories worth. Think I'm done now!

Goal - knuckle down on the training, rehab, shoulder strength and diet. Specially the diet!

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon -  trap deadlift 10 x 10 68 kg 1' rests. Hard. Still tired from Sunday. Boxing bag, not bad at all. Elbow getting better.
Tue - rest.
Wed -  system static, very good. Did 1 x 4 hangs full crimped and 3 x 4 half crimped. All + 8 kg. Did one set with slightly downturned shoes and it felt like cheating. Brilliant. Clean and snatch pulls 5 x 10 each 36 kg. 
Thu - climbing class.
Fri -  PAP training: 4 x 108 kg deadlift + max one arm hang 2 cm. All x 4. Brilliant.
Boxing bag, was on fire. The power of deadlifting first.
Sat - board climbing, was a total monster. One of the strongest sessions of the season. Managed to do all the singles of the project and did it in two halves twice! Did the second part four times! Incredible. The key was being able to use different footholds setting up for the crux, that previously made the sequence too hard. Gotta keep an open mind and a strong body. Quite excited now.
Sun - clean and press 6 x 5 36 kg. Boxing bag. Was exhausted before starting but pulled out a good session.

[petejh]

STG: Send existing projs at Crag X (NI), Mega Crag X (NI), G.Orme and Gideon. First 8b+ (Mecca), spring
MTG: Continue bolting/sending new routes at Mega Crag X (spring-summer). Explore more of Ireland. Send 2 projs on L.Orme (late summer)
LTG: 8c, by June 2018

Week 10 / 10 before starting trying Mecca.

Good day TB!

M.
T. Tremeirchion. First time trying 36 chambers sit start. Reachy! Can do moves to rail but just can't quite reach rail while keeping my feet on. Gonna have to work out shorter way, defo harder though. Core sesh at home.
W. Boardroom. Aeropow on latticeboard. 52 moves, 30 seconds rest, 42 moves. 10 mins rest. Repeated twice. Good pump, failed at three-quarters on third rep. Finished with LI aerocap 1min on/off x 10 on 6c circuit.
T. Boardroom. Power. Moonboard. Did 4 or 5 7As, flashed two of them. Bit tired.
F. Supposed to travel to south coast but plan fell through.
S. Pigeons Cave boudlers. First time trying 14 Years Later. Didn't watch any beta, ended up getting to third move and kept trying to go for a side pull I'd chalked thinking it was the way. After getting home watched some vids and realised it's a duff sequence and you don't use that hold. Great problem keen to go back. Luke arrived for a lantern sesh (keen bugger), I stayed a bit too long then stumbled out in the dark without a torch. Neck weights at home.
S. Mill. Aeropow on the campus board. Small rungs, foot-on campusing: 1min30 on, 2mins rest. 6 reps. Managed 1.30, 1.30, 1.20, 1.15, 1.15, 1.10


Decent training week, the last before getting on and starting trying Mecca. Anyone up for swapping catches at the Tor this week and for the next few weeks?

[nik at work]

M - nowt
T - training traverse 1x7b 1x8a 1x8a+ 1x8b 2x8a+
W - nowt
T - packing and travelling to font
F - travelling to font...
S - still travelling, arrive mid afternoon.
S - climbing at chateauveau do zigzag, perlim and EOS.

[webbo]

Mon. Nothing
Tue. Nothing
Wed. Nothing
Thu. Board doing laps did 43 problems. Bike intervals for an hour.
Fri. Travel to Portsmouth ferry to Santander
Sat. Sailing then drive to hotel.
Sun. Bike 62.92 miles 3 hrs 58 mins including an 8 mile climb up to a 1000 metres.

[shark]

11.3-5

M.Drive to office. Second look at house with TT. Then to Llanberis for meetings. Ended up drinking too much with a David Brent type character

T. Back from Llanberis to Rubicon with a slight hangover. Did warm up traverses at Rubicon. Ian Parnell showed up so a good chat with him. Mint conditions but I was climbing like a sack of spuds so gave X a miss.

W.London on train from Doncaster for evening meeting. Couldn't work out how to open carriage door at Doncaster on way back and ended up in Leeds  Not home till 3.30am   

T. Swansea for evening meeting and back. 

F. Malham PM. Met Moose there. Cons x 2. First go on Oak dogged and linked throw to mid traverse Second go did 2nd bolt to pulling into undercut but toe caught underoverlap and fell Third go Had 3 goes from 2nd bolt to throw Fourth go a shambles. Drove to South Lakes.

S. PM Inspected a mag lime buttress by abseil. Rock slightly dubious. Had a couple of goes up initial 6A wall but bottled going for the 6C overhang with only having one pad, potential 7m groundfall and no spotters.

S.

M. Malham. Bit woozy. Slightly hungover. Cons x 3. F&EE x 1 Warm. 3 goes on Oak. Go 1 Horn to top. Go 2 & 3 Throw to crux midway across top traverse. Not terrible but not great either. Threw the towel in early due to thin skin and below par performance and went home.

Too much travel this week. And drinking. Not at same time of course. Decided to press ahead with buying the house as it is a good price for the area and an interesting renovation project and a nice bolt hole while I am still at the BMC though new level of stamp duty is eye-watering. Will need some lodgers in due course! Not sure where I am with the Oak. Going up thursday again. If this goes poorly may sack it off till the autumn. At BMC AGM at Plas Y Brenin next weekend if anyone around. Hopefully get out and do some form of climbing. For some reason soloing a big easy route or two appeals if anyone has got any good suggestions that are not too polished or far from the road?       

[moose]

F. Malham PM. Met Moose there. Cons x 2. First go on Oak dogged and linked throw to mid traverse Second go did 2nd bolt to pulling into undercut but toe caught underoverlap and fell Third go Had 3 goes from 2nd bolt to throw Fourth go a shambles. Drove to South Lakes.

M. Malham. Bit woozy. Slightly hungover. Cons x 3. F&EE x 1 Warm. 3 goes on Oak. Go 1 Horn to top. Go 2 & 3 Throw to crux midway across top traverse. Not terrible but not great either. Threw the towel in early due to thin skin and below par performance and went home.

Not sure where I am with the Oak. Going up thursday again. If this goes poorly may sack it off till the autumn.

Don't despair... I reckon it's your belayer's fault: he was too weak and light; you drained yourself unnecessarily hauling into position before each attempt.  And, you can pride yourself on iron-hard resolve: I've given up on the Oak after 2-3 sessions!

[shark]

F. Malham PM. Met Moose there. Cons x 2. First go on Oak dogged and linked throw to mid traverse Second go did 2nd bolt to pulling into undercut but toe caught underoverlap and fell Third go Had 3 goes from 2nd bolt to throw Fourth go a shambles. Drove to South Lakes.

M. Malham. Bit woozy. Slightly hungover. Cons x 3. F&EE x 1 Warm. 3 goes on Oak. Go 1 Horn to top. Go 2 & 3 Throw to crux midway across top traverse. Not terrible but not great either. Threw the towel in early due to thin skin and below par performance and went home.

Not sure where I am with the Oak. Going up thursday again. If this goes poorly may sack it off till the autumn.

Don't despair... I reckon it's your belayer's fault: he was too weak and light; you drained yourself unnecessarily hauling into position before each attempt.  And, you can pride yourself on iron-hard resolve: I've given up on the Oak after 2-3 sessions!

Sonia has just itemised the bottle count from yesterday and its no wonder I felt hungover. 

No alcohol between now and thursday. #athlete

[moose]

Tonight, I'm having a couple of "farewell to Easter" whiskies; tomorrow, I am leaving  the key to the spirits cabinet in my office.

[shark]

Tonight, I'm having a couple of "farewell to Easter" whiskies; tomorrow, I am leaving  the key to the spirits cabinet in my office.

 

[Duma]

Toby, well done getting back on the horse.
TB, sounds like an epic day.
Coops, back out crushing after stitches the previous night, hardcore!
Murph, that's ace, Charles better watch his back!

Sent from my E5823 using Tapatalk

[TobyD]

Mon - another hour a Bonehill late afternoon.  Was shit and got quite upset about it, had expected to do The Wave after coming so, so close yesterday.  Eventually managed a 6C in the worst style imaginable.

You actually have to be born in Devon to muster more than one day per fortnight of moor skin,and massage clotted cream into your fingertips.

[the_dom]

Weird week – feeling low on motivation but feel like I put in effort nonetheless, while scuppering it by eating terribly and drinking too much.

Mon: Big hangboard session, with pushups and core work in between

Tues: Lunchtime run, PM CWP hangboard session

Wed: Decent indoors session trying to climb as many problems as possible first go. Did 19 problems from 6B+ to 7B, most first go, in 90 mins. Battered by the end.

Thurs: Lunchtime deadlifts – 60kg x 3, 90kg x 3, 110kg x 3, 125kg x 3, 140kg x 3; followed by 40 mins of hiking

Fri: Drove to Rocklands. PM wandered up to The Section, alone, with the intention of closing out my unfinished business on The Stimulator. Belatedly realised that it’s a difficult problem to work alone, and that The Section feels very remote. Worked the moves and then moved over to the 7B, Porcupine, next to it, which felt fine except for the weird mantle at the end. An unsuccessful day.

Sat: Kleinfontein. Should have done The Fin but didn’t, then put in a solid session on Shadows of Ourselves – another problem with which I thought I had unfinished business until a mate told me that I’d done it years ago. Didn’t manage to do it this time, but treated it as a training session

Sun: Riverside – feeling surprisingly OK after, in retrospect, a properly big week (5 climbing sessions, 2 hangboard sessions and 1 deadlift session in 8 days). Warmed up by doing Pieds dans l’Eau (7A+/B) and then tried Des Clacques Pour Nini until I realised that I actually was totally battered and had nothing left. It was also absurdly warm. Excuses.

I really need to get my diet and drinking back on the straight and narrow this week.

 

[nai]

Mon - another hour a Bonehill late afternoon.  Was shit and got quite upset about it, had expected to do The Wave after coming so, so close yesterday.  Eventually managed a 6C in the worst style imaginable.

You actually have to be born in Devon to muster more than one day per fortnight of moor skin,and massage clotted cream into your fingertips.

Maybe the moor punished me for my dislike of scones and shunning of cream teas.

[James Malloch]

After two weeks of illness I had a hectic week at work last week resulting in no time for climbing midweek. Went to Scotland for the Bank Holiday and, due to rain, had a few days of walking.

Stopped off at Kyloe-in-the-woods on Sunday and had a bit of a fail. Got close on one 7A+ and failed on a bunch of other stuff. A session at the wall on Monday suggested the last 3 weeks have knocked me back a bit...

[Murph]

Murph, that's ace, Charles better watch his back!

Just looked up who you meant here. My god. 8C barefoot, 7C barefoot and blindfold :jawdrop:

[tomtom]

Murph, that's ace, Charles better watch his back!

Just looked up who you meant here. My god. 8C barefoot, 7C barefoot and blindfold :jawdrop:

Time to work on your weight added toe deadhangs..

[duncan]

Some good weeks people.

STG: Rehab. elbow, 6c at Siurana. Place gear.
MTG: tbc
LTG: 7b. Classic sea-cliff E5 this August.

M -
T - Flight to Barcelona. Evening pottering at Arboli.
W - Arboli - routes including “Cuencame un Cuenco” (~6b+).
T - Siurana - routes including “”Sorry Not Clean” (6b).
F - Siurana - sight-seeing for me.
S - Margalef - routes including “Brigada Txocolata” (6c).
S - Margalef - routes to 6b. Out of skin, out of strength, too close to unpleasantly pushy French family (your daughter may be on the national junior team but please don’t shout at your plainly frightened ~8 year old son because he is whimpering a little on a tough 6a+). Bailed to tea-making duties.

Excellent trip: great area, enthusiastic company, recommendable accommodation, and no flight or car rental screw-ups. Siurana was heaving with visitors, the team - strong indoor boulderers - found the climbing a bit long, vertical, and scary (gratifyingly ). Roadside Margalef worked for everyone.

I ran out of gas by the final day, felt notably weak and unfit, not surprising since it’s 7 months since I’ve tried hard on anything. Was climbing 7a/+ at the same venues 3 years ago after a winter of general conditioning and easy volume on the autobelay: aerocap and not getting injured clearly works for me. The tweaks are pretty good, I’m moving reasonably well on rock, and should be climbing harder with a little more mileage.

Plan: time on rock, trad. climbing (it’s six months since I’ve placed gear) and slowly, carefully, build up the fitness indoors.

[Yossarian]

Plan: time on rock, trad. climbing (it’s six months since I’ve placed gear) and slowly, carefully, build up the fitness indoors.

If you're ever stuck for partners for Dorset (or other south coast) Duncan, give me a shout...

[SA Chris]

Forgive me for i have sinned, it has been many weeks since my last confession

STG - Loch Ness Etape, which has come round too fast
MTG - linkup project
LTG - something harder.

M before last - Wall session. Reset of 10 deg board so loads to play on. Felt pretty good.
T - can't recall, nothing much
W - outside bouldering. Good conditions. Managed to do first half of linkup project, but skin too sore to do any more. Cave was really dry though, so managed an eliminate traverse I had thought of a while back.
T - nothing. Packing
F - nothing. Packing
S - long drive to York
S - planned trip to Brimham, but  friends said it was a zoo and nowhere to park so we sacked it off. Gutted
M - walk in town. 10 k easy run in evening, all a bit flat round there!
T - walk with kids, then bouldered at Red Goat in evening. Good session, nice centre with good route setting, and beta from Stabbsy.
W - walk with kids railway museum, 36 k bike ride on Solar System ride towards Selby. Had to turn around before I reached Pluto, but fuck it, it's not a planet any more any way. All a bit flat as well, 59 m of ascent!
T - Tiresome day at Flamingo Land. Lots of walking.
F - Brimham. Toproped a few routes with kids, they complained it was cold, then we did an easter egg hunt with them, then everyone got cold and wanted to go home. I pulled on a few holds wearing trainers. Fuck it.
S - Long drive home, 2 hours in Edinburgh IKEA to add salt to wounds.
S - 36 k all the local hills ride, 478m of ascent. Got rained on a bit.

[TobyD]

Mon - another hour a Bonehill late afternoon.  Was shit and got quite upset about it, had expected to do The Wave after coming so, so close yesterday.  Eventually managed a 6C in the worst style imaginable.

A mate down there used to eat clotted cream and golden syrup on toast every morning. Amazingly, he's not fat; more importantly, I've never seen him split a tip

[psborland]

M:  Nothing

T: BBC Limit Bouldering. Purchased a dozen big - very big   wood crimps  from Alex Fry whilst he was there setting. Seem really nice, hoping to set up something on my garage board to train PE / capacity
 
https://www.instagram.com/p/BS8oSMwgWK7/?taken-by=psborland

W: Core b

Th: none

F: Hangboard max hangs. Aiming for 10 second hangs/ 3 minutes rest two handed : metolius small slot front 3 half crimp +5Kg .  7 sec/6 sec changed to 3.75Kg 9 seconds
BM2k small edge 4 finger half crimp +5Kg : 8 / 10 sec + 6.25Kg =8 seconds
BM2k 4 finger open +17.5Kg: 7/8/5 seconds
Dead lifts 70 KGx 8; 85Kg x8 ; 95Kg x 5 

Sa: screwed LXgrips on to board

Su: Ate easter chocolate.

[SA Chris]

put in a solid session on Shadows of Ourselves – another problem with which I thought I had unfinished business until a mate told me that I’d done it years ago.

I do that sometimes.

[jwi]

Siurana was heaving with visitors

That chimes with what other reliable sources have told me: Siurana is off limits for a few years until it becomes unfashionable again. A pity, would like to revisit at some point soon.

[T_B]

Easter innit.

Buoux?

[fried]

M - Petit Bois, dry for a week or so, so worth a punt. Pretty green still but got stuck into the traverse of remise à l'heure https://bleau.info/petit/8004.html. Close but not there, did the beginning and the end but couldn't quite get out of the groove, no doubt the crux. Did loads of easy stuff.

T- rest
W - Indoors, feeling much better at the moment, indoors might not help outdoors but the reverse wotks pretty well. Shoulder ok.

Th- rest
Fr - Franchard Sablons, like a creche, but lots of happy, smiley people so that was ok. Planned to do the new, experimental orange circuit...did a few, then found myself in front of Dalle à Clement https://bleau.info/sablons/3164.html. I get about 5 goes at this every year, 3 to work the sequence, up to th last move....then fluffed the last moved. Couldn't even pull on again after that. Fingers sore, did easy stuff...went home. Best I've climbed outdoors for a long time.

Sa/ Su - Easter boozing.

[Duma]

found myself in front of Dalle à Clement https://bleau.info/sablons/3164.html. I get about 5 goes at this every year, 3 to work the sequence, up to th last move....

Top problem that one, impressed it still sticks in my memory after 13 years...

[Will Hunt]

M - Petit Bois, dry for a week or so, so worth a punt. Pretty green still but got stuck into the traverse of remise à l'heure https://bleau.info/petit/8004.html. Close but not there, did the beginning and the end but couldn't quite get out of the groove, no doubt the crux. Did loads of easy stuff.

Lovely problem on a lovely block. I think if I could pick up on little part of Font and transport it back home it would be Petit Bois (obviously Franchard being too big to transport).

[fried]

M - Petit Bois, dry for a week or so, so worth a punt. Pretty green still but got stuck into the traverse of remise à l'heure https://bleau.info/petit/8004.html. Close but not there, did the beginning and the end but couldn't quite get out of the groove, no doubt the crux. Did loads of easy stuff.

Lovely problem on a lovely block. I think if I could pick up on little part of Font and transport it back home it would be Petit Bois (obviously Franchard being too big to transport).

A lot of the problems could use a bit more traffic. Last year was pretty wet and some stuff is in danger of disppearing under thick moss. Lovely rock.

[the_dom]

put in a solid session on Shadows of Ourselves – another problem with which I thought I had unfinished business until a mate told me that I’d done it years ago.

I do that sometimes.

Normally with me it's the other way around..

[duncan]

Siurana was heaving with visitors

That chimes with what other reliable sources have told me: Siurana is off limits for a few years until it becomes unfashionable again. A pity, would like to revisit at some point soon.

Easter innit.

Yes.

Part of the problem was the number of non-climbers, on some days the police were limiting the number of cars past the Herbolari parking spot.

I'll go again but off-season, whenever that is. November?

[T_B]

I was there in January ('16) and was lucky to have perfect conditions (bit hot in the sun). It was pretty quiet, but I definitely wouldn't describe it as deserted.

[Luke Owens]

Two weeks from me, been ill all this week.

3rd April - 9th April

Shoulders are feeling great after all the rotation and IYT stuff lately. Feel stronger and less achey.

M: Pantymwyn - Got over excited and didn't warm up properly. Felt a twinge in my left forearm on my 2nd go on Panty's sit. Thought nothing of it... Fell off the last move again after a few more goes then on one go foot slipped out of heel-toe as I was going into the pocket and ripped a massive flapper. When I got home/warmed down realised twinge was flexor unit strain from the 2 finger pocket - Not happy! Basicly means I can forget this problem for the foreseable until that's fully healed.

T: Rest

W: Lunch -
2 x 10 Press-ups
2 x 10 Shoulder rotations (4kg)
2 x 10 Tricep curls (8kg)
3 x 5 reps of IYT's (4kg)
4 x 10 Eccentric curls - both arms (8kg, 10kg, 10kg, 12kg)
Stretching forearms and back

T: Lunch -
2 x 10 Press-ups
2 x 10 Shoulder rotations (4kg)
2 x 10 Tricep curls (8kg)
3 x 5 reps of IYT's (4kg)
4 x 10 Eccentric curls - both arms (8kg, 10kg, 10kg, 12kg)
Stretching forearms and back

Eve: Ruthin Escarpment - Haven't been in years, crimpy local lime venue. Flashed "Thriller In Minilla" (6C) and did "The Butterfly Collector Sit-start" (7A) 3rd go. Pretty chuffed to actually be able climb after Monday's epic.



F: Lunch -
2 x 10 Press-ups
2 x 10 Shoulder rotations (4kg)
6 x 10s L-hangs
3 x 5 reps of IYT's (4kg)
2 x 10 Eccentric curls - both arms (12kg)

S: Rest/Gardening

S: Rest/Gardening

10th April - 16th April

M: Cave - Finally did Right Wall Traverse (7A), complete nemesis for some reason, I've tried it on and off for a couple of years and always fall off the end... Had a few goes on Lipstick (7A), felt hard in the sun.

Had a quick look at Lickety Split - Pulling on was hard, managed one move...

Went around to Pill Box, freezing in the wind. Tried the Original (7A) again, still feels impossible, how this can be 7A I'll never know.

Went to check out Silence of the Trams (7A+/B), managed to pull off the deck a few times but them holds are horrid, not enjoyable. Did most of the up lines to the left all around 6A.

T: Lunch -
30 Crunches (+5kg)
20s Side planks (+6kg)
5 x 5sec L-hangs
3 x 10 Dorsal raises (+5kg)
3 x 5 reps of IYT's (4kg)
2 x 10 Eccentric curls - both arms (12kg)

Eve: 10 min warm up of various easy hangs.

Max Hangs - Half Crimp on 20mm edge
R1: 10s, R2: 10s, R3: 8s, R4: 8s, R5: 9s

W: Lunch -
3 x 5 reps of IYT's (4kg)
3 x 10 Eccentric curls - both arms (12kg)

T: Pigeon's Cave - Lamp session - first time down there.

Did all but the last move on "In the Mix" (7A), moved on further down the beach and did "Fossil Arete" (7A) 2nd go.  I had a bunch of goes on the 7A+ low start and came close.

F: Rest

S: Pigeon's Cave again - Warmed up quickly and did the 7A+ low start to Fossil Arete twice. Had a brief greasy go on Jimnastic (7A+). Then went to try and finish off "In the Mix". Did the last move I couldn't do the other day but couldn't link from the start as it was so humid/greasy. Felt weird and like I had a high temperature when I got back to the car.

S: Caught some sort of bug could barely move all day...

[Kingy]

Went around to Pill Box, freezing in the wind. Tried the Original (7A) again, still feels impossible, how this can be 7A I'll never know.

Its hard but try the beta in this vid of Drink Driving, drill your feet into them polished smears!
youtube.com/watch?v=Y4rB2QkR9lI&t=152s

[Luke Owens]

Went around to Pill Box, freezing in the wind. Tried the Original (7A) again, still feels impossible, how this can be 7A I'll never know.

Its hard but try the beta in this vid of Drink Driving, drill your feet into them polished smears!
youtube.com/watch?v=Y4rB2QkR9lI&t=152s

Cheers Ted, not tried it like that, will give it a whirl!