[Alex Smurthwaite]

Been thinking about this for a while. Gioia which is 8c+ has almost twice the number of moves of burden of dreams. The holds look tiny and the moves look nails. How much harder are the moves on burden of dreams to get an extra grade.

I personally think it's similar to comparing Directors cut 8b and Gaskins problem 8b. Which are just different styles of problem at the same grade

Is burden of dreams a different style of 8c+?

[haydn jones]

 

[BID]

Using Gaskin's grades for any comparisons ever is utter madness. For many reasons.

Also, Nalle "relatively" chilled up Gioia if I remember correctly.

[Alex Smurthwaite]

Any short 8b could be used for comparison

[r-man]

Gioia which is 8c+

Nalle didn't commit to saying Gioia was either 8C or 8C+.
http://blog.nallehukkataival.com/post/77896523061/gioia

Core gave it 8C when he did the FA. Ondra said 8C+.

There have been no other repeats.

[monkoffunk]

Took Nalle two seasons on Gioia. In his own words: "It took me a few days to work out the sequence and a few more days trying it before getting the right conditions for the send." How many seasons was BOD?

[User deactivated]

Is this a proposed downgrade?

More than a 100 sessions. Five years. Stupid debate, until someone has a go at repeating it and offers an opinion.

At this point you'd have to say of course the moves are harder it's way shorter.
Yeah long boulders are a different test to short ones. Not a shocker.

The gaskins problem is a terrible reference point too because nobody really has a clue on what grade it is/will be. Gaskins gave it 8A+ I believe.

[Kingy]

Generally speaking the overall boulder grade takes into account the number of moves and the available rest (and where that is taken in relation to the crux etc.) so a 3 mover would have to have correspondingly harder moves than a 20 mover with the same grade, in the Cave for example. So we are not comparing apples with apples when we compare power endurance problems with 'bloc style' ones. Although this is difficult to quantify, as the grading scale is linear, in theory, the increments of difficulty between different grade brackets for problems in the same style should be the same. So the moves on a 3 move 8B would be the same increment of difficulty harder than those on a 8A+ than comparing a 7B to a 7A+, if this makes sense!!

[Doylo]

G Box is 8B+ at least.

[Alex Smurthwaite]

Not saying it's not 9a. Just interested to see what people think

[andy popp]

I truly don't know how any of us here can think anything about it (beyond accepting that 9A represents Nalle's honest attempt to give it a grade)?

[Will Hunt]

Lock n' log

[moose]

Been thinking about this for a while.....

please tell me you haven't......

[nai]

All I want to know is, if it's 9A and only 4(?) moves long, by how much has it broken the British tech grade?

[haydn jones]

It may be uktech 7c!!

[Kingy]

Smiling Buttress has a UK 7b or even 7c UK tech move according to Hard Grit. Sick hard!!!

[Will Hunt]

They definitely missed a trick. Could have had a photo on the front of a magazine with the caption "Is this the world's first 8a?"

[haydn jones]

[Duma]

Has someone really started a thread comparing the grades of two problems they've never seen in the flesh, and which are both way above their level. Because on video the holds look small and the moves looks hard?

Jesus H Christ, other channel already.

How is this not in the logpile?

[andy_e]

Having just watched the film, my opinion is 9A (soft).

[Mike Tyson]

Has someone really started a thread comparing the grades of two problems they've never seen in the flesh, and which are both way above their level. Because on video the holds look small and the moves looks hard?

Jesus H Christ, other channel already.

How is this not in the logpile?

Amen to that! Logpile immediately.

[ducko]

Nalle knows his shit I'm going with 9a all day

[Fiend]

First English 8a tech?

[Oldmanmatt]

I haven't watched either vid, or been to either, so I can confidently state; it's British 12r tech.
With knobs on.

If it's a damp Tuesday in November and you're wearing mittens.

And a Hijab.

[JonB]

To attempt to add some rationality to this ( ) Nalle mentions that one of the main issues with BoD is that the rock is quite glassy, whereas I believe the rock in Varazze is pretty grippy, no? Not all crimps of the same size at the same angle are created equal, or whatever.