[tomtom]

M > Fri in Tenerife on a field class with 39 students... did alot of walking, but no climbing or training. managed to put on 5 lbs :/ good buffet at the hotel...

Sa: I gave respite leave for MrsTT with TTjnr... good day, he's a happy chap.

Su: Made it out to Helsby. Glorious day, nice connies. Man, was I rusty... creaked up all things up to V5 and failed on the harder stuff. Not too bad for first real climb in over a week, but a little disappointed. Sure it'll come back.

In other body related news I've virtually stopped drinking (just had enough of it really..). 2 G&T's and 2 small Canas (in Tenerife) in the month of March..

 

[shark]

11.4-6

M. Day 3 of cold, started to feel better in afternoon

T. 

W.

T. AM. Tor. Weather warm and rainy. Crag seeping and greasy. Dogging go on Obscene Toilet 7c then managed to redpoint it first go despite the grease  Had 10 mins rest and then had a second go for training and nearly did it again - ie fell going for large undercut. Longer rest and fell at thin gaston. Went onto Tin Of 7b+ and had to pull on first draw as hold at the end of traverse was gopping. Managed to redpoint to the top by skin of teeth.

F. PM Systems board Did a mega link of the benchmark left hand crusher crimp back down and into the right hand one and so on in to the normal AnCap sequence. Trouble is it goosed me for the rest of the session. Did the normal AnCap circuit 3 times failing on the 4th.

S. PM After much umming when to eatswood. Mainly reworked second half of the original traverse. Pretty tired and powered out unsurprisingly. Got hammered at Hard Grit show.

S.

Glad to have shifted cold pretty quickly. Even better to then do Obscene Toilet. I find it hard - you have to put in a squirt of power after some sapping crimpy wall climbing and then keep good body tension for a few moves after so keen to keep using it as a training route as reckon that is good for the Oak.   

Mina stung me into action with an offhand comment - she thought Id sacked the Oak off. Apparently the Oak was dry on Monday but then the whole crag was condensed on Thursday.  Arranged to go up on Tuesday and Friday. Id like to say I'm psyched out of my gourd. But I'm not.

Got the lawnmower out of hibernation and it started. Maybe a good omen.   

[csl]

Well done on Obscene Toilet Shark!

STG - april

- Boulder > 7A
- 3 days outside
- Do something good in N. Wales

MTG - end of summer

- Do something good in Font

LTG - this time next year

- not sure

Monday

Arch B1

- did red v6 on stepped roof
- attempts on white v7 on prow
- attempts on green v6/7(ish) on main overhang

Tuesday

Rest

Wednesday

Arch B1

Fingerboard 4x 6 second hangs @ -2.5kg on right and -5kg on left

Boulders

- Did white v7 on prow
- tried green v7 on main overhang

Thursday

Rest

Friday

Arch B1

Boulders

- finished both the greens v6/7 + v7 on the main overhang

Saturday

Wedding

Sunday

Hungover

[fried]

M- Should have gone outside, but slept so badly I couldn't face it...pollen season arrives.
T/W - Nothing, sleep badly, exhauted then find some pills that do the trick.

Th - Refreshed..Beauvais Nainville for another bit of orange circuiting. Did the first 40 or so probs..missed a few. Good to get the feet back on rock but far from perfect. Another nice day out.

Fr- Nothing
Sa - Indoors, 2h. OK.
Su - Nothing

[Coops_13]

STG: Crush Swizzy
MTG: 7C
LTG: 8A

M: Core
T: Showroom in Lincoln, bouldering and auto belay
W: Core
T: Board session in Arch
F: Drive North
S: Anston Stones, did Colt, Beretta and the unnamed 7A at Woody's, nice day. Hard Grit Live in evening was v good 
S: Stanage, quick play on Zippy's. Did Glass Hour, pottered around for rest of day. Little vid (someone say if me posting them on here is annoying  ):


Off to Swizzy on Saturday for a week, psyched!

[James Malloch]

STG - Continue training and have a quick ascent of Tremolo. Don't get injured.
MTG - In the autumn be getting 7c in a session and open account on an 8a. Don't get injured.
LTG - The Groove, Supercool and Statement of Youth. Don't get injured.

M - Girlfriend ill so had a chilled evening.
T - Campus session. Feeling like I was starting to get ill.
W - ill
T - ill
F - ill
S - ill
S - ill

Great week for me last week. This week was a bit crap. It's the kind of ill that doesn't stop you doing things (short walks etc) but where climbing isn't an option and you generally feel crap. Hoping to postpone my Lattice assessment on Wednesday so it's not on my first session back. Hopefully it sods off soon...

[Muenchener]

STG: "Benchmark" moonboard 6B+
MTG (Spring 2017): Redpoint 7b
LTG (<= 5 years): Redpoint 8a before I hit 60.

A fun weekend learning to climb on pebbly conglomerate in the Allgäu area of southwestern Bavaria. Hasn't been one of my normal stamping grounds until now, but it was fun and I'll be back.

M: 40 minutes stretching/mobility
T:   Moonboard. Another easier 6B+ topped.
W: Had planned to do routes at the wall, but had a sore throat and was worried about being sick for the weekend, so ginger tea & early to bed
T: ... which seems to have worked. Moonboard; topped a rather harder 6B+ I've been working on for a while and made significant progress on Wuthering Heights. But ... doing anything at all on the moonboard is pretty much limit bouldering for me and I've established that the optimal rest interval between goes if I don't want to power out & fade too quickly seems to be two songs. This means a session takes bloody ages.
F:
S: Bouldering, Rocklands. Not the one in Africa but rather the justifiably not world famous one in southwestern Bavaria. Pleasant and worthwhile place to spend a day pulling powerful moves on small conglomerate pebbles.
S: Climbing, Allgäu. Quickly became apparent, after pulling pebbly sit starts all day yesterday, that today was going to be a moderate mileage day. Eight pitches up to 6b. Took me a couple of routes to get used to the idea that my feet weren't necessarily going to slide off every conglomerate pebble I stood on, and they weren't all going to break or fall out either, after I which I was able to relax & enjoy the rest of the day.

[nai]

Nice one, shark.

Mon

AM

Mon - new hard problem set which I eventually did all the moves on but couldn't link two of them together
Fri - couple of attempts on the new problem - managed to link it in four two-move sections.

Needed a long warm up again then managed to link the final 4 moves, then the first four moves. Then started trying it. Fell off crux move 5 a lot, then move 6 a bit, then the final move once before success.

Eve - Intended to do AeroCap but got warmed up in minutes, felt really good and ended up doing AnCap.

Tue Battered - yoga

Wed - Bois d'Est, eventually sussed how to do the move to the crimp rail a bit lot more securely - became 2 in 3 rather than 1 in 10.  Tried from start but kept failing at the foot moves into Kneebar.

Th rest

Fri Bois D'Est. Reworked foot moves into kneebar and wondered what the fuck I'd been playing at before. Got LH on the rail three times, thought I was going to get it last time, Fairly slick through to rail but used the wrong foothold to set up for the bump & match and slithered off trying to swap.



Sat - took nipper to Foundry, had to do a 4 to retrieve the autobelay after she'd failed to lead it.  Felt at least 4+

Sun - deadhanging benchmark retest 8 weeks on. 

Bodyweight now 58kg vs 60kg.
On BM middle slots padded out to 1 joint - 1/2 crimp hung 78kg (134% BW) vs 74kg (123%), F3 drag hung 75kg vs 69kg.
One arm was disappointing, only hung the same as last time, in terms of percentage it's a better score, 90% vs 87%, might be clutching at straws a bit there though.

one set of 4x4.

Gonna be a short week this week with a massage tomorrow taking out Tuesday as well. Just booked a holiday to Devon for the following week so I'll concentrate on energy systems this week as Devon will be mostly bouldering (although I will be packing kit just in case the chance to get to Anstey's arises).

[shark]

Nice one, shark.

Ta

Mon - new hard problem set which I eventually did all the moves on but couldn't link two of them together
Fri - couple of attempts on the new problem - managed to link it in four two-move sections.

Needed a long warm up again then managed to link the final 4 moves, then the first four moves. Then started trying it. Fell off crux move 5 a lot, then move 6 a bit, then the final move once before success.

Be good if we tried each others boards out sometime.

Fri Bois D'Est. Reworked foot moves into kneebar and wondered what the fuck I'd been playing at before. Got LH on the rail three times, thought I was going to get it last time, Fairly slick through to rail but used the wrong foothold to set up for the bump & match and slithered off trying to swap.

Look strong. Surprised you dont shake pout on the jug though

[user deactivated]

Alright there, doesn't eatswood traverse start by dropping in from the jug at the base of corpse crack? For the full tick....

[dave]

nah starts at the crack

[shark]

Alright there, doesn't eatswood traverse start by dropping in from the jug at the base of corpse crack? For the full tick....

Probably should do but Peak Bouldering says sitting with hand in crack. Most do it this way. Rich Heap cant remember where he started

[nai]

Look strong. Surprised you dont shake pout on the jug though

Because it's not a rest? Don't think we're ever going to agree on the best places to shake out.

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon -  rest.
Tue - climbing gym in Campitello.
Wed - rest.
Thu - climbing gym in Salzburg. Amazing place.
Fri - rest.
Sat - dumbbell complex 25 x 4.
Sun - power recruitment: cleans, snatches and broad jumps. Board climbing, good! Elbow not too bad. Boxing bag. It's good to be back on the board.

Good week of vacation. Ate and drank quite a lot, somehow walking a lot helped limiting the damage. Salzburg was amazing and the city monuments weren't bad either.

[dave]

Look strong. Surprised you dont shake pout on the jug though

Because it's not a rest? Don't think we're ever going to agree on the best places to shake out.

Shakeouts are against the spirit of bouldering.

[shark]

Look strong. Surprised you dont shake pout on the jug though

Because it's not a rest? Don't think we're ever going to agree on the best places to shake out.

Shakeouts are against the spirit of bouldering.

I think of it as a route (8a)

[T_B]

M - P.M. Homeboard (struggling with dodgy shoulder), followed by Repeaters. 3 x 6 x 7 front 3, failed on 4th rep of 3rd set back 3 (2.5 mins rest). Managed 3 reps of half crimp but knew I wasn't up to/into it.

T - P.M. Burbage 1.5 hours warming up inc Remergence block before had to come home due to ill child.

W - Lunch run up ski village. Generally felt fine. Could feel tendon to begin with as I warmed up. Didn't have to hold back on the descents.

T - P.M. Works with R. M'board (2 x 7a+, 7b, 7b+), 1 x comp wall problem, 4 x Murples, plus tried 3 others (the 3 on the skips that Mrs T_B flashed, much to her amusement).

F - Am ran to work. Lunch. Lattice. Broken 1/4s. 35 x 3, failed on 4th rep @ 14 moves, 32 x 4, 32 x 2, failed on 3rd rep @ 14. Not super pysched, bit tired from this am's run?

S - Tor. 4-hr sess. Felt really good warming up. 5 or 6 attempts at PUTPB slapping for split crimp. Felt a bit weak on the lock, but everything else (fingers, forearms, general power levels) felt good. Nearly repeated Powerhumps (which I find desperate). P.M. Run up Limb valley with strides coming down. Cut a longer run short, as quads felt hammered from jumping off PUTP.

S -

Arrived at the Tor 10am Sunday and nearly sacked it off as it was so smeggy, but in the end had a really good session not least because I had loads of time. Had my first session this yr trying Pump up the Powerband and whilst I didn't repeat PUTP I tickled the gaston and on my attempts from the start of PBand I was slapping the split crimp. I definitely felt less wasted falling off at that point and I had a lot of goes, so overall v pleased. The weakness is my locking strength. Both the move to the split crimp and the move to the gaston are big, static locks.

My shoulder (it's not the lat as previously thought) improved as the week went on, so I'm not worried about it. A little bit limiting though on certain moves.

Ankle is a lot better and managed 3 x short runs.

Temps cooler this week so hoping to get back on BSMA, then off to the Lakes Friday.

[Murph]

Minimal Training Plan
Plan: 4x rehab, 3x fingerboard, fast til lunch thru week, no chocolate, no bread
Goals: 7B lime, +40kg 14mm fb, fighting weight

M- rehab
T- lunch session at plantation, repeated Zippys Traverse 7B in short order, twice. Good times.
Evening - fb max hangs, +33kgs on 20mm, felt easy
W- rehab
T- quick works session looking to do volume but got distracted. Head wasn't in it.
Home - fb max hangs, decided to test max so built up to +45.5kgs for 10s on 20mm edge. That's all my weights but still not really "max".
F- rehab
S- rehab
S- family burb south session. No big scores to report but good session. Fingertips worn out tho so excused myself fingerboard.

Diet adherence: good thru week but a couple of small lapses at weekend.
Weight: still fighting +8kg

If I had any sense I would not be training my obvious strength but instead one of my many weaknesses. But compliance! I'll give it til the end of the month.

[Luke Owens]

Nice one Shark!

Effort Nai, looked like you pathed it on the vid, next time for sure!

M: Lunch -
3 x 10 Press-ups
3 x 10 Shoulder rotations (4kg)
3 x 10 Scapula Pull-ups
3 x (5 x 5s) L-Hangs
3 x 5 reps of IYT's (4kg)
3 x 10 Inverted rows
2 x 10 Eccentric curls (8kg)

T: Lunch -
2 x 10 Press-ups
2 x 10 Shoulder rotations (4kg)
2 x 10 Outward shoulder rotations (4kg)
2 x 10 Tricep curls (8kg)
2 x 20s L-Hang
2 x 5 reps of IYT's (4kg)
2 x 10 Eccentric curls (8kg)

Eve: Pantymwyn - Re-worked my beta for the sit start to Panty's (7B), Got a more solid method that still has a hard move but is more consistent and less contorted. Best go I fell off the last move of the whole thing... Surprised myself! Had another go from the sit and failed after the crux of the stand when I put my heel in the wrong place. Next session for sure!

T: Lunch -
30 Crunches (+7.5kg)
20s Side planks (+6kg)
5 x 5sec L-hangs
5 Leg raises to bar
3 x 10 Dorsal raises (+5kg)
5 x 5sec L-hangs
5 Leg raises to bar
2 x 5 reps of IYT's (4kg)

Eve: Boardroom - Loads of problems up to about 6C and tried a bunch of harder ones. Half an hour on the Moonboard, managed to flash a 6C. 10 mins Aerocap warm down. Insanely busy and boiling hot at the wall, made it really difficult to enjoy. Apart from the training area that place just makes me hate indoor climbing.

F: Daughters 1st Birthday, proud Dad!

S: Party at our house for Daughters birthday. First time we've hosted anything even though we moved in 3 years ago, actually really enjoyable and not as stressful as we thought it would be!

S: Zoo with the family, great weather. Had planned on a late evening hit on Pantymwyn but too tired and got in too late, going tomorrow instead.

[psborland]

Luke, Happy days make the most they grow so fast .

Decided to go a bit easier this week feeling worn out and generally feeling old right now .

M: Indoor routes LI: 6a;6a+;6b;6b;6c;6c+ 6a;6a;6a;6a+

T: Core routine b 2 sets (need to work back up to 4) . Press ups 3 x 30

W: Max hangs with  alternating dead lifts and stretching between a' la Steve Bechtel integrated strength.  80;80;85;90kg x7.
   What does everyone else do for max hangs ? Middle bottom hold on BM 10 seconds each hand then 3 minutes rest x 9 . Webb Parsons style ??

Th: none

F: Is pushing the lawnmower through 8 inch long grass antagonist training ? Felt like some kind of training anyway

Sa:

Su: Fun day easy sport routes.

[Murph]

S: Stanage, quick play on Zippy's. Did Glass Hour, pottered around for rest of day. Little vid (someone say if me posting them on here is annoying  ):

....

Off to Swizzy on Saturday for a week, psyched!

Keep the videos coming I reckon. I enjoy seeing them.

& crush hard in Swiss

[Duma]

Goals:
8A (Hunters Roof? Full Power?)and 8b by June
In shape for SA in summer.

Body Audit: Middle RH finger bit tender but nothing major
Sleep: OK.
69kg.

M: nothing (~7hrs, 2dk)
T: TCA, New hard set (Blacks), 10 -15 problems. mostly mid to high 6's, couple of low 7's (~7hrs, 1dk)
W: Bloc, Had been uni comp during the day so went round those, all but one, did all finals too. Some fun stuff but only a couple of tricky things so limited training value tbh. 40 min on woody after though which was good. (~6.5hrs, 2dk)
T: TCA, Blacks again, some trickier stuff, only the hard ones left now. Pleased to flash the 45 (~7B?) but not feeling as strong as I have recently on the really steep stuff  (~7hrs, 0dk)
F: Nothing (~7.5hrs, 0dk)
S: Nothing, had couple of hours free while daughter was at a party, could have nipped to the wall, sat in the sun on the habourside and drank cider instead.  (~7.5hrs, 5dk)
S: Nothing, beach with daughter (~7hrs, 3dk)

OK week. Sunshine makes more booze and less training very tempting though.

[Coops_13]

S: Stanage, quick play on Zippy's. Did Glass Hour, pottered around for rest of day. Little vid (someone say if me posting them on here is annoying  ):

....

Off to Swizzy on Saturday for a week, psyched!

Keep the videos coming I reckon. I enjoy seeing them.

& crush hard in Swiss

Cheers, will do 

[Sasquatch]

   What does everyone else do for max hangs ? Middle bottom hold on BM 10 seconds each hand then 3 minutes rest x 9 . Webb Parsons style ??

Typically do lopez style max hangs. 5x10sec 2-arm weighted.  Look them up for specifics.

[csl]

What does everyone else do for max hangs ? Middle bottom hold on BM 10 seconds each hand then 3 minutes rest x 9 . Webb Parsons style ??

Have done Steve Maisch style and currently doing basically the above, 1 arm on bottom middle hold x 8 2 mins rest, adding a second each week to go from 6 to 10 seconds, then reducing the assistance and going back to 6 seconds.

[Sasquatch]

2017 Goal - 14? of 40 Ticked (FYI - goal is to tick 40 7C+ or harder boulder problems that I've not done before - I turn 40 in June...)

M-Work/Travel
T-Work AM, then quick drive to Leavenworth, tick #'s 13 and 14, drive back to Seattle and fly home. 
W-
T-Hard MB Session
F-
S-Short gym session with Nephew - his first time.  Ticked a 7C in 2 goes
S-Hike 2hrs

Another good week.  Two more on the goal for the year.  At this rate, it looks like it'll go down pretty easy, which is massively unexpected considering my entire climbing career I've only done 50-60ish in that range...

[Murph]

What does everyone else do for max hangs ? Middle bottom hold on BM 10 seconds each hand then 3 minutes rest x 9 . Webb Parsons style ??

I'm similar to Sasquatch, two hands, added weight, reps of 10 seconds. I have a timer running under the telly and hang on the 1,4,7 etc minute mark.

Thoughts:
I don't see how anyone could really use the CWP protocol of feathering a bit of strong, just not scientific enough to me - I'd need to grab very hard to get to 10 or even 5 seconds on one arm. Just 10 kilos of asssistance is still quite a lot.

But the half crimp hang CWP advocates - I understand that is supposed to be what you use. I just get lazy though and go open. I know I'm supposed to hold it more at 90 degrees but I can't hang as big a number. Does anyone else get lazy and just hang open with more weight? Or are folk really strict with using the right grip type?

[gme]

I am totally strict. Have my thumb on the side of my index and as soon as it slips I drop off.

I think it's imperative that you keep form.

You seem to me to be fitting the exact stereotype of who I thought was into deadhanging rather than bouldering. I.e doing it as it's a bit easy and doesn't physically or mentally tax you too much.

 Mine are done to max I have never once been able to complete my sets and always fail to do the last few 10 sec hangs. My max is only 6-7kg less than the load I am training with.
My fingers are worked the next day and there is no way I could climb.

[TobyD]

2017 Goal - 8a; a sportive (any)
M- foundry
T- yoga, dog walking
W- yoga, couple of short runs mainly testing out strava on a smart watch
T- foundry routes, right ring finger felt pretty odd at the end of the session...
F- finger not painful, but pins and needles intermittently made it really hard to climb - easy aerocap mostly c.25 routes
S- harder aerocap, finger feeling better but still some p+n, think its more to do with wrist, as also some in first and index.
S- yoga; 25 miles on bike, lovely day; lots of shit drivers out.

[Nibile]

What does everyone else do for max hangs ? Middle bottom hold on BM 10 seconds each hand then 3 minutes rest x 9 . Webb Parsons style ??

I do back3 and front3, one max hang followed by one sub max hang, x 5 x each prehension.

[Murph]

Gme - also it's convenient. With a 1 year old and a 3 year old and all that entails I just wasn't having time in my life for 3x2hr wall sessions a week.

Bouldering on rock is my most favourite thing. Bouldering inside on plastic, I am far less taken by. As you were questioning the carry over from FB to climbing last week, so I question whether, for me, the carryover from indoor-style climbing to outside-style is also pretty poor.

Never been called a stereotype before, I'm not sure how to take it tbh.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[petejh]

STG: Send existing projs at Crag X (NI), Mega Crag X (NI), G.Orme and Gideon.
MTG: first 8b+ (Mecca), spring. Continue bolting/sending new routes at Mega Crag X (spring-summer). Explore more of Ireland. Send 2 projs on L.Orme (late summer)
LTG: 8c, by June 2018

Week 8 / 10 before starting trying Mecca.

M.
T. Llanymynych quarry. Aerocap on routes. Did 5 long routes, 6b+, 6c, 6c+, 7a, 7a+. Fell off the os of Nomad at the top when I got to the crux and it was soaking wet, hadn't realised from below. Good mileage venue.
W. Fingerboard max hangs. 5 reps of 10secs with 28kg on 20mm edge (BM slots with battery in).
T. Boardroom. Ancap on campus board. moved down to mid-size rungs. 4 reps of 1357,down ladder,1357. Rest between reps= 4xwork time. 2 sets with 10mins rest between sets. Completed first 4 reps, then 1st of the second set. Failed on last 3 reps on the way back up. Good. Aerocap - 1min on/off on the 7a+ circuit.
F. Core sesh.
S. Kettlebell workout.
S. Pilbox wall. Tried to get reacquainted with Millennium Drive but lacking any zip. Failing on the easy moves! Sacked it off and went for a walk. Not enough sleep in last few days and severely lacking oomph and co-ordination.

Transition to power and aeropow and power this week.

[psborland]

What does everyone else do for max hangs ? Middle bottom hold on BM 10 seconds each hand then 3 minutes rest x 9 . Webb Parsons style ??

I'm similar to Sasquatch, two hands, added weight, reps of 10 seconds. I have a timer running under the telly and hang on the 1,4,7 etc minute mark.

Thoughts:
I don't see how anyone could really use the CWP protocol of feathering a bit of strong, just not scientific enough to me - I'd need to grab very hard to get to 10 or even 5 seconds on one arm. Just 10 kilos of asssistance is still quite a lot.

But the half crimp hang CWP advocates - I understand that is supposed to be what you use. I just get lazy though and go open. I know I'm supposed to hold it more at 90 degrees but I can't hang as big a number. Does anyone else get lazy and just hang open with more weight? Or are folk really strict with using the right grip type?

I think I'm fairly good a being strict with the half crimp position but I know what you mean it's tempting to go into the open hand. I feel I'm disproportionately weak crimping so am trying hard to stay in position.
I felt exactly the same with the cwp protocol I'm pulling really hard with the assisting hand and even more so locked off and there is no way of quantifying how hard I'm pulling. I might try the same protocol with a pulley instead.

I do back3 and front3, one max hang followed by one sub max hang, x 5 x each prehension.

Nibile, is that 2 (max & sub max) hangs close together then a longer rest, 5 times over then whole thing again in the other position ?  ( I had to look up the meaning for prehension )

[gme]

Gme - also it's convenient. With a 1 year old and a 3 year old and all that entails I just wasn't having time in my life for 3x2hr wall sessions a week.

Bouldering on rock is my most favourite thing. Bouldering inside on plastic, I am far less taken by. As you were questioning the carry over from FB to climbing last week, so I question whether, for me, the carryover from indoor-style climbing to outside-style is also pretty poor.

Never been called a stereotype before, I'm not sure how to take it tbh.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sorry i never meant it it sound derogatory. I just have a feeling that there are a lot of people out there who are really into finger boards due to the fact they are a pretty mentally untaxing form of training in comparison to other methods. Its perceived as something thats quick and easy so is approached in that manner. The training you did last week seemed to fit that idea as in your own words you didnt push yourself, once due to the session being easy and once due to not having enough weight.

Dead hanging seems to fall right at the end of the effort scale in climbing training with some of the aeropower stuff (totally pumped, arms screaming in pain, mentally tortuous) is at the other and i do wonder if this is why its so popular.

I understand your in to it due to time restraints, i suffer from the same problem, but surely that makes it even more important to do each short session right and to its limit.

[Murph]

Nah you're probably right - I am doing it because it's easy. I've spent all year trying things that are hard - like trying to work out how to do the murples at the works. I just can't get my head round them and injuries and not trying hard etc.

The easy comments were personal notes really - last week trying 7 sets of 10s +33kgs and i only completed 4. This tuesday it was "easy!" to do all 7 and then on the Thursday when I played the up-the-weight game 6 sets were in excess of 40kgs and the last 45.5kg was all the weights I own but my notes said "fine!!?" - which is quite ridiculous if you saw the weight plates and kettlebells I have hanging off my belt.

Picking up from you and being reminded of the CWP half crimp protocol though - I should probably go back to 33kgs but push myself harder to maintain half crimp for ten. And when I next end up down the works I should probably man up and challenge myself to get to the top of the motherboard for the first time, even if the whole session is "a failure". It would be more efficient than trying to find a soft touch murple.

On reflection, thanks for the challenge.

[Nibile]

I do back3 and front3, one max hang followed by one sub max hang, x 5 x each prehension.

Nibile, is that 2 (max & sub max) hangs close together then a longer rest, 5 times over then whole thing again in the other position ?  ( I had to look up the meaning for prehension )

Sorry, I was a bit inaccurate.
I start with back3 and do 1 max, short rest, 1 sub max. Change arm, do the same. Good rest. Five times. Then the same for front3.
I prefer to complete the back3 hangs (1+1) x 5 per arm, before switching to front3, instead of alternating, because back3 is a lot harder for me, also because I have a short pinky that needs a lot of wrist twisting and lots of force applied to stay put.
Front3 is easier but I focus on keeping a good half crimp without dragging at all.

[the_dom]

Mon: A couple of hours at The Arch trying to climb as many problems as possible. Lots of walking.

Tues: 8-odd km run around London. More walking.

Wed: A couple of hours at Vauxwall in the morning. So much walking.

Thurs: 9-odd km run around London followed by LOTS of working. Met old friends for dinner and drinks. Lots of drinks.

Fri: Rest day. Hangover.

Sat: Dragged around Covent Garden and Regent Street by shopping wife but managed a few hours at The Arch. Run The Jewels live in the evening 

Sun: A quick 8-ish km run through London before wandering Shoreditch and then missioning to Heathrow and thence home.

A pretty good trip, all in all.

[Sasquatch]

But the half crimp hang CWP advocates - I understand that is supposed to be what you use. I just get lazy though and go open. I know I'm supposed to hold it more at 90 degrees but I can't hang as big a number. Does anyone else get lazy and just hang open with more weight? Or are folk really strict with using the right grip type?

I'm strict about form for whatever prehension I'm training.  I typically train 1/2 crimp, and am strict about 90 degree angles. 

Mine are done to max I have never once been able to complete my sets and always fail to do the last few 10 sec hangs. My max is only 6-7kg less than the load I am training with.
My fingers are worked the next day and there is no way I could climb.

I rarely go to failure.  I typically have to try really hard and If I'm not there mentally, I sack off the session at 3 or 4 reps instead of 5.  Lopez talks a bit about this, and there's a variety of literature about it as well.  I think the bottom line is that by going to full failure, you require a longer recovery period before being able to re-engage at max.  So by doing just a hair below max, I feel like I can push the frequency just a bit and get more return in the long run. 

[gme]

Mine are done to max I have never once been able to complete my sets and always fail to do the last few 10 sec hangs. My max is only 6-7kg less than the load I am training with.
My fingers are worked the next day and there is no way I could climb.

I rarely go to failure.  I typically have to try really hard and If I'm not there mentally, I sack off the session at 3 or 4 reps instead of 5.  Lopez talks a bit about this, and there's a variety of literature about it as well.  I think the bottom line is that by going to full failure, you require a longer recovery period before being able to re-engage at max.  So by doing just a hair below max, I feel like I can push the frequency just a bit and get more return in the long run.

How many sessions do you do a week. Ditto period.

[Murph]

Failure can mean different things too, no? My plan is currently to stop at ten but to go for at least five seconds. I am aiming for that sweet spot where even the last hang lasts for at least five but they aren't all ten - if they are then it's too easy and I know for next time to up my game.

Had a session with the new grip type today, here's a comparison.

Old, "lazy" hang, definitely not a half crimp and not a proper hang either. Transfers well on the smaller edge tho:



And the half crimp, I'm not used to training it, obvs, but it's nearly as strong as the lazy hang. Appreciate if any experts care to say it's right/wrong/index finger must be straighter etc. don't want to fool myself.

[Sasquatch]

Better, but get the thumb off the index.  Too close to closed crimp...

Mine are done to max I have never once been able to complete my sets and always fail to do the last few 10 sec hangs. My max is only 6-7kg less than the load I am training with.
My fingers are worked the next day and there is no way I could climb.

I rarely go to failure.  I typically have to try really hard and If I'm not there mentally, I sack off the session at 3 or 4 reps instead of 5.  Lopez talks a bit about this, and there's a variety of literature about it as well.  I think the bottom line is that by going to full failure, you require a longer recovery period before being able to re-engage at max.  So by doing just a hair below max, I feel like I can push the frequency just a bit and get more return in the long run.

How many sessions do you do a week. Ditto period.

When I'm doing a FB cycle, I try to do two FB sessions and one hard boulder session a week.  The FB sessions also have 3-4 supplemental strength exercises as well based on whatever I think needs work - core, shoulders, DL, etc. 

[tomtom]

Interesting Murph - your lazy hang feels perfect for me on the BM1K too.. I can't really get my fingers in right for the crimp.

I've probably missed something here - but if you can hold more on the lazy crimp - isn't it a better idea to use it rather than the half crimp?

[Murph]

Thanks Sasquatch really appreciate it.

Tom - apparently it's got the best carry over to other hang types, so 1/2 crimp helps full crimp and open but open doesn't help crimp and vice versa. Apparently, according to Neil Gresham at least.

[Nibile]

I've probably missed something here - but if you can hold more on the lazy crimp - isn't it a better idea to use it rather than the half crimp?

Nope. This is training, not climbing.

[webbo]

Mon. Nothing.
Tue. Went to Tranmaire on NYMoors. Usual spanking got up a couple of things and failed on many moor. Nice day out.
Wed. Nothing.
Thurs. Board did some system style problems. Bike out for 50 mins intervals.
Fri. Bike 40 mins just to loosen my legs.
Sat. Bike Vale Velo  98 miles 5 hrs 50 mins 50 secs. Riding time 5 hrs 38 mins but I had to stop to fix a puncture. Quite tired when I finished.
Sun. Nothing sore.

[nik at work]

A bit late this week but...

M-nowt
T-evening session on the traverse wall. 1x7b, 1x8a, 8x8a+, 1x8a, 1x7b
W-nowt
T-nowt
F-M - Roadtrip, 600 miles in three days round the North of England to see what a longer bike ride is like, meet friends and do some climbing. Success on the first two fromts but abject failure on the climbing. I hadn't realised just how draining several hours in the seat of a bike can be. So whilst I climbed Sat, Sun and Mon, it was only in the sense that I put on my climbing shoes and pulled myself up some rock to the bare minmum extent. Still had a great weekend meeting up with friends and a decent mileage for the first tour. (Bike = motorbike obvs, I'm not some pedal bike sicko). Highlight was the early Sunday morning ride across the Peak District.

Murph I deadhang like you lazy style, but that is also how I climb. I have never in my life crimped, though I may have occasionally cracked out a notional half crimp.

[36chambers]

Just got back from a 15 day trip to the forest.

2nd week highlights include: a week long heatwave, Le Lot de Boudins 7C, Iceberg Raccourci assis 7B+, splitting a tip, sunbathing, puntering off going for the finishing jug on Symbiose 7C, sunbathing, Berezina 7C utilising a pad in a tree and Welcome to Tijuana 7C.

As I said in last weeks Power Club my aim for the trip was a 7C (having previously only managed Carnage and a few 7B's). I somehow bagged 5 7C's and 2 7B+'s (and 10 other 7's). More importantly, with the exception of Berezina, everything went pretty quickly. Definitely feel like I have upped my game recently, completely made up .

[shark]

 

[Nibile]

 

[tomtom]

inspirational week 36C and Nik - so heartening that my evil non half crimp, easy crimp can be an effective weapon

[SA Chris]

Sun. Nothing sore.

"Nothing sore" or "Nothing - sore"

Good mileage!

[tommytwotone]

Forgot I actually exercised last week.


Goals - climb at all, then climb outdoors, then climb Font 7something by end of the year


Can't remember when, but I did a day of my standard "off the peg" strength workout, and then a day of focus on the deadlift. Had managed a couple of 100kg singles the week before but got 3 x 100kg, 2 x 110kg and a very wobbly 120kg where spinning bar / grip let me down.


Despite best efforts to get to the wall bedtimes at home are, well, bedlam. An 8 week old who won't settle and a 3-year-old who now refuses to go to bed, or sleep. Most nights I'm not finished bedtime and kitchen cleanup until at least 8:30pm which all but negates possibility of heading out.


Going to make time this weekend to stick the fingerboard up in the house. At least I can try to bolster the overall gym fitness.

[Murph]

Most nights I'm not finished bedtime and kitchen cleanup until at least 8:30pm which all but negates possibility of heading out.


Going to make time this weekend to stick the fingerboard up in the house. At least I can try to bolster the overall gym fitness.

That's exactly my experience. I'm still cutting cucumber crusts at 8:30 and the sleepless night and in-snoozeable alarm clock makes finding time for rest and training utterly brutal. I empathize!

And thanks nik at work for a strong endorsement of the lazy hang!