Every time I think I understand energy systems a bit more, I read something else and get more lost...
First I'll set the scene. I've had a very sporadic and unstructured winter, mainly consisting of winter climbing, the odd "recreational" fun on-sighting indoor routes session (plenty rest, going for it on each attempt) and a reasonable amount of pure indoor bouldering - trying hard problems, usually with reasonable rest.
To be honest, I'm where I need to be for all my summer plans with regards to strength and power. I can onsight a lot of the problems at TCA Font 6a/7a range and get the 7a+/7bs with some work. In fact, my ability to flash seems quite close to my max grade.
Route wise I'm onsighting Fr7a/+ which is my long term standard performance.
I'd like to do 4 -6 weeks of PE type stuff to up my onsight ability. I've just bought Rock Climbers Training Manual for some more ideas on all this stuff.
Which may have been a mistake!!!
They talk about doing route "intervals" of one letter grade (so one French + grade) harder than onsight level. A single route is a "set" and you should rest 1-2 times the set length. To me this is somewhere between An-Cap and Aero-Pow, no? Or is it pure Aero-Pow?
I just had what felt like a great session but I'm now wondering what I've actually been training and if it was time best spent....
The session consisted of these routes:
Warm up: 6a,6b+,6c,6c.
Then on the 5 degree overhanging, 11m high lead wall:
Up 6c, down 6a, up 6b.
Rest equal time
Up 7a, down 5+, up 6b+.
Rest double time.
On the 15* 12m high overhanging wall
Up 7a+, lower off, up 6c, lower off, up 6c.
Rest x 2
Up 7a, down 6a, up 6c
Rest x 2
6b+ x 3 lowering off in between.
Total of 218m climbing.
Now, roughly what energy system have I actually been training? Felt too hard to be AeroCap, but doesn't fit in with the AeroPow criteria too well either. Is it just a waste of time? Or is it actually quite close to the RCTM PE protocol, seeing as the up-down-ups all included a route that I just onsighted, or didn't onsight, as part of the "lap". (can you tell my thoughts are progressing as I'm typing this...??)
Would it be better to think of each "up-down-up" or "up-lower-up-lower-ups" as longer routes of a slightly harder overall grade? I.e. a 7a-6a-6b = 7b 30m?? We've always done these up-down-ups at the Glasgow climbing wall as the harder routes are fierce, short affairs and my aims are longer trad & sport onsights.
Haphazardly getting better is so much simpler!