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Old school Buildering (Read 7185 times)

Alex Smurthwaite

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Old school Buildering
March 28, 2017, 08:58:00 pm
How many other venues are there similar to broomgrove Road or the Henry price building in Leeds?

lagerstarfish

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#1 Re: Old school Buildering
March 28, 2017, 09:14:43 pm
blackberry buttress is a new old school venue

tommytwotone

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#2 Re: Old school Buildering
March 28, 2017, 09:27:42 pm
There's a bridge in Darley Abbey in Derby that I think used to get a bit of attention.

ashtond6

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#3 Re: Old school Buildering
March 28, 2017, 09:38:02 pm
Endcliffe park wall!

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#4 Re: Old school Buildering
March 28, 2017, 09:58:30 pm
Bournebrook wall at Birmingham Uni

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#5 Re: Old school Buildering
March 28, 2017, 10:09:27 pm
There's a bridge mentioned in Nick Bullock's book, I forget where it was.

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#6 Re: Old school Buildering
March 28, 2017, 10:39:05 pm
The cherry hinton road bridge was a staple training venue for us at Cambridge.


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mrjonathanr

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#7 Re: Old school Buildering
March 28, 2017, 10:55:03 pm
Where is that please Stu? Fairly frequent visitor to Cam -and Cherry Hinton- and fairly limited enthusiasm for Kelsey K. Thanks.

Otterspool Prom for scousers.

remus

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#8 Re: Old school Buildering
March 28, 2017, 11:17:02 pm
There's a bridge mentioned in Nick Bullock's book, I forget where it was.

This is probably the place you're thinking of http://www.leicestershireclimbs.co.uk/index.php/slawston-bridge.html

Never had the pleasure of a visit myself unfortunately, looks mint...

andy popp

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#9 Re: Old school Buildering
March 29, 2017, 04:20:06 am
There used to be a great place in Stoke - Grant Street I think, a railway embankment of sculpted sandstone blocks - complete with photocopied topo and all, where Al William, Nick Dixon, I, and others used to train in the early 80s. I think that at the time it actually did us a lot of good.

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#10 Re: Old school Buildering
March 29, 2017, 07:42:54 am
Spent a lot of time on the Bournebrook wall.. during my time there a layer of tarmac was added to the path that removed the small step under the arch. Made the arch traverse a lot less scary!

I moved to Manchester after that. There was a place that I never went to ... the Pump House? Never really fancied it as I'd done enough traversing at Birmingham so spent my time on the board at the McDougal or heading outside

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#11 Re: Old school Buildering
March 29, 2017, 08:21:49 am
Pompey sea walls.
You could solo upto 40' or so over the shingle beach and only have a 50/50 chance of death and less than 1:1.2 chance of a broken limb. Perfect limestone, crimpy with the odd mono pocket.

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#12 Re: Old school Buildering
March 29, 2017, 08:36:21 am
How many other venues are there similar to broomgrove Road or the Henry price building in Leeds?

Why the interest, out of interest?

Elderly Bristolians will remember the "Bog Wall" on the public toilet beneath the main area, now nearly hidden by foliage.

I preferred the crimptastic Hotwell Road wall aka "Hot Wall" (very 1980s). Forget purple plastic blobs, this is the ideal training for Gogarth's North Stack wall, if you can mentally substitute the roar of passing lorries for the roar of the sea.

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#13 Old school Buildering
March 29, 2017, 08:37:44 am
In Nottingham there's "Terrace Wall" inside the grounds of the posh uni and the walls under Trent Bridge. Both are partially above water so provide the opportunity for some SWS. I sustained my first finger injury at the latter due to not realising that old school crimp strength is a prerequisite for all these type of places.

Nowadays there are two indoor walls in Notts plus one at each uni and I'd be surprised if either of these venues ever gets climbed on.

a13c

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#14 Re: Old school Buildering
March 29, 2017, 08:55:06 am
The race course bridge in Chester. Quarried sandstone blocks covered in small to moderately sized holds.
I think the traverse is an old school 6a. Loads of eliminate potential and i still visit occasionally, it gets the afternoon sun.
Potential for top roping too if you're brave enough to trust the railings.... Fine as a youth but wouldn't dream of it now!

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fried

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#15 Re: Old school Buildering
March 29, 2017, 09:46:15 am
Pompey sea walls.
You could solo upto 40' or so over the shingle beach and only have a 50/50 chance of death and less than 1:1.2 chance of a broken limb. Perfect limestone, crimpy with the odd mono pocket.

And I'm sure my fingers were stronger after a year or so of climbing there than 7 years on plastic...maybe just younger.

Duma

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#16 Re: Old school Buildering
March 29, 2017, 09:47:19 am
Elderly Bristolians will remember the "Bog Wall" on the public toilet beneath the main area, now nearly hidden by foliage.

as demonstrated by an elderly (sorry John  ;)) bristolian at 15:20 in this vid:



Also featuring the old school and perma dry sea mills traverse at around 10:30

Johnny Brown

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#17 Re: Old school Buildering
March 29, 2017, 10:08:09 am
Washford road bridge in Nobold, Shrewsbury, although not much chalk now in evidence on streetview.

Crewe flats was my favourite in Sheffield, much missed.


Jim

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#18 Re: Old school Buildering
March 29, 2017, 11:21:58 am
The race course bridge in Chester. Quarried sandstone blocks covered in small to moderately sized holds.
I think the traverse is an old school 6a. Loads of eliminate potential and i still visit occasionally, it gets the afternoon sun.
Potential for top roping too if you're brave enough to trust the railings.... Fine as a youth but wouldn't dream of it now!
great venue if your local, not been for ages but they had cut the undergrowth well back last time I was there (years ago).
traverse is good and long and you can start on the left for up problems and move right getting bolder and bolder


tommytwotone

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#19 Re: Old school Buildering
March 29, 2017, 11:33:17 am
The brick wall on Uttoexeter Old Road, opposite the junction with Stepping Lane in Derby saw a lot of action from us in the late 90s/early 2000s as well.

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#21 Re: Old school Buildering
March 29, 2017, 12:12:54 pm
I moved to Manchester after that. There was a place that I never went to ... the Pump House? Never really fancied it as I'd done enough traversing at Birmingham so spent my time on the board at the McDougal or heading outside

I was told about this by a local when I first moved to Manc a few years ago. Never went though. There are a couple of old school pics on UKC https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=10177#photos

Also found this whilst having a browse! https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=444702

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#22 Re: Old school Buildering
March 29, 2017, 01:52:21 pm
Pompey sea walls.
You could solo upto 40' or so over the shingle beach and only have a 50/50 chance of death and less than 1:1.2 chance of a broken limb. Perfect limestone, crimpy with the odd mono pocket.

And I'm sure my fingers were stronger after a year or so of climbing there than 7 years on plastic...maybe just younger.

Crimptastic!
Note obligatory Ron Hills




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#23 Re: Old school Buildering
March 29, 2017, 04:18:47 pm
Aberystwyth Sea Walls has been a favourite amoungst the AMC over here for years. It's pretty polished now and problem heights depend on how many billions of pebbles the sea stacks up at the bottom of the walls during storms but they make for a pleasent summers evening when all else fails.

mrjonathanr

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#24 Re: Old school Buildering
March 29, 2017, 06:24:31 pm
I moved to Manchester after that. There was a place that I never went to ... the Pump House? Never really fancied it as I'd done enough traversing at Birmingham so spent my time on the board at the McDougal or heading outside

I was told about this by a local when I first moved to Manc a few years ago. Never went though. There are a couple of old school pics on UKC https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=10177#photos

Also found this whilst having a browse! https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=444702

I've been there, edge of Fallowfield, a bit Broomgrove in style, very urban, average.

 

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