[shark]

11.3-5

M. Eve. Depot New circuit set. Worked up grades Mainly had goes on new Black 7b+ (let's not pretend they are circuits - it's traversing)

T. Noon BMC Yoga Eve. Depot. More traversing. Finished with 10x4 on the minute pull ups

W. Tweaked back, probably from pullups

T. Back still sore.

F. AM. Tor. Nice day. Back improved but could feel glands in my neck swelling i.e. a cold on its way. Last to arrive due to work and property shizzle Met Nick, nai and Tom there. Dogged up Obscene Toilet - first redpoint nearly did it - tickled large undercut - Sun in eyes a bit. Shortish rest as sun coming round. Wore sunglasses. Felt tired at shake and fell off crux. Sacked it off and went home. Short session.

F. Lovely day. Sniffles, sore throat, tired. Drove to Bristol and back

S. Lovely day. Sniffles, sore throat, tired.

Avoided a cold all winter so overdue one. No interest in climbing or training while I feel like this. Easy week I expect til Im over it 

[petejh]

STG: Send existing projs at Crag X (NI), Mega Crag X (NI), G.Orme and Gideon.
MTG: first 8b+ (Mecca), spring. Continue bolting/sending new routes at Mega Crag X (spring-summer). Explore more of Ireland. Send 2 projs on L.Orme (late summer)
LTG: 8c, by June 2018

Week 7 / 10 before starting trying Mecca.

M.
T. Fingerboard max hangs. 5 reps of 10secs with 26kg on 20mm edge (BM slots with battery in).
W. Boardroom. Ancap on campus board. 4 reps of 1357,down ladder,1357. Rest between reps= 4x work time. 2 sets with 10mins rest between sets. Tired, only completed 6 reps and failed on last 2.
T.
F. Hornby Crags. Easy Aerocap on routes. First routes outside this year. Retro-flashed the 7a and 6b+, 6b+ 6b+. Lovely evening.
S. Quick play on pillbox wall to get reacquainted with the moves on Millennium Drive.
S. Mill in the a.m. Ancap on campus board. 4 reps of 1357,down ladder,1357. Rest between reps= 4xwork time. 3 sets with 10mins rest between sets. Completed 10 of the twelve reps, and almost completed the last two reps. Time to drop the rung size. Bodafon Buttress in the p.m. for easy aerocap: 8mins on traverse, 2 mins off, 8mins on. Beautiful evening.

Transition to power and aeropow after next week.

[Coops_13]

STG: Train for Swizzy
MTG: 7C
LTG: 8A

M: Did some weights and press-ups at home
T: Indoors, not bad
W:
T: Short, sharp session on the board indoors. Good session, felt strong
F: Drove North
S: Rivelin first, did Mini Beak. So hot and sweaty to retreated to the tor. Did Boot Boys Start and then tried little extra direct. Crushed finger in the pocket and lost feeling in the tip, weird. Still not back to full feeling now... Not psyched or feeling particularly strong.
S: Early hit at Curbar, did Early Doors:

Then went to Baslow, ground under Eagle stone sodden. Tried Heroes, almost did the LH but my core ran out of juice. Retreated to Tom's Cave to look at Hannibal, hard.

[James Malloch]

STG - Continue training and have a quick ascent of Tremolo. Don't get injured.
MTG - In the autumn be getting 7c in a session and open account on an 8a. Don't get injured.
LTG - The Groove, Supercool and Statement of Youth. Don't get injured.

Missed the previous two weeks but have come back with my best week of climbing in a long time.

Two weeks ago, did very little (before a holiday).
Last week, went to Granada for a relaxing holiday. Nibs - lots of good recommendations from a while back, thanks! Ate, drank and slept lots. Had two half days climbing and did a 7a second go after going the wrong way on the onsight... Made a new training plan on the flight back having finished my first 8 week "rehab" training which went well.

M - City Bloc. Campus session. Did 1-2-5, 1-4-5 and 1-3-5 three times (both sides) on the standard rungs. Couldn't quite get 1-4-6 on this rung. Then did AnCap campus ladders, 1-2-3-...-10, match and back down. 20 moves. Managed 4 sets and was ruined. Did the remaining 4 sets with feet on. Think I need to drop the number of moves to 15 this coming week. Aero Cap to finish.

T - Ran to work (2km) and did 40 mins of knee physio.

W -

T - Depot. 30 degree Board Session. Got some projects and I USED CRIMPS AGAIN!!!! YYFY!!! It felt so good being on small holds again. Fuck yeah! Did repeaters after this. 4 x 7 on 3 off. 8 sets with 40s rest inbetween. AeroCap to finish the session before being kicked out for closing.
 
F - Ran to work (2km) and did 40 mins of knee physio.

S - Anston Stones. GREAT SESSION!
Managed Beretta (7A+) quickly which was an old Nemesis.
Got Fine Art (7A+) first go after some good beta was given, tried this about 3 years ago once or twice and didn't get close.
Then Did Apprentice Prow (7A+) in a few goes.
Apprentice Wall (6C+) in a few goes (got over the the lip on the flash but wasn't sure if it went higher so did it again to be certain.
The most successful bouldering I've had in a long time! Had a quick plan on Bullet and Black Crow which I'm keen to get back on.

S - Managed to get a last minute partner for Malham. Another ace session! Wasn't sure how this would go initially but managed 4 new routes.
Did Free and Even Easier (7a+) as a warm up on top rope and then on Lead (tried it once or twice 2 years ago)
Then did Sycophants (7a) first go (tried this once about 4 years ago)
The Brooklyn girls (7a) first go
Then slipped off the first moves of Just another Dead End Job (7a) on the onsight (I forgot about Malham footholds) but did it easily second go.

Super psyched after the best week I've had in bloody ages. No pain in my finger. Lots of training success and loads of new ticks. Makes me think this season on the limestone may go a bit better than I first hoped...

Booked a Lattice Assessment for 6 April too so interested to see how that comes out...

[nik at work]

STG: stop the rot
MTG: something hardish longish free
LTG: something more hardish longish free

M: Nowt
T: Climbing outside after work, traverse wall. 1x7b, 1x8a, 1x8a+, 1x8b (with 2 falls), 1x8a+, 1x8a.
W: Nowt
T: Epic day at work
F: Nowt
S: Lovely day, first dry and non-freezing morning out on the bike, the Isle is calling to you nibs...
20170325_093730 by Nik Jennings, on Flickr
Afternoon at the traverse wall 1x7b, 1x8a, 8x8a+, 1x8a, 1x7b+
Evening at a gig, The Balitc States, good.
S: Combo of childrens parties and mothers day stuff.

Reasonable mileage but still only two sessions in a week.

[csl]

Strong weekend there James! Bodes well for the season?

STG - Boulder > 7a
MTG - not sure
LTG - not sure

Monday

Tired session at Arch building one. Not too productive, onsighted everything new up to hendrix and yurple circuits

Tuesday

Rest

Wednesday

Arch Building one, better session. Did a couple of V6's and had some good attempts on some Greens (v6-8)

Thursday

Rest

Friday

Boulders

Onsighted everything new up to Hendrix and Yurple (v3-5)

Fingerboard - Max Hangs

Meant to be doing 7 second hangs @ -5kg. But whilst warming up, realised that I always hang at a 90º lock when doing one arm hangs. I tried hanging off a straight arm, and lo and behold managed to one arm hang for 4 seconds at +5kg (106% of bodyweight) on the bm2k bottom middle hold. I guess I'm no longer weak fingered... YYFY

With this in mind I did 8 sets of 10 second hangs at -5kg for right hand and -7kg for left hand. Managed all but last hang fairly easily.

Saturday

Drove around the Sandstone trying to find a new crag to visit that was dry. Both Eridge and Harrisons a bit damp so ended up at Bowles again.

Tried Banana Hammock 6C which felt tough in the sun/hot temps, great problem though. Best i've tried on southern sandstone.
Did Tobacco Road Extension 6B+
Tried Sonic Blue 7B, some progress, worked out how to get the fingerlock solidly.
Tried Phasis, 7C. Could hit, but not quite hold the first move.

Fun session, quite hot and sunny but keen to keep trying harder boulders and hopefully learn how to climb a bit harder!

Sunday

nowt

[lagerstarfish]

(Thanks Shark)

this winters colds have been nasty - take care of yourself and don't try to do too much too soon

[nai]

Mon -
AM - garage bouldering - Took an age to get going, nearly sacked it but it turned into a decent session.  Two med-long term projects ticked and a new hard problem set which I eventually did all the moves on but couldn't link two of them together
PM AeroCap at mini works

Tue - garage 4x4. Tough to get warm again.  Around 2:30 work, 3 mins rest, 2 sets. Was struggling in the second set.

Wed rest

Thu Garage AnCap (after another slow start) - started failing slightly earlier in the last 3 reps of the final set. Just about right.

Fri  - Garage warm up, ready to go surprisingly quickly today so managed a couple of attempts on the new problem - managed to link two moves - progress) before heading to the Tor for spankings on Chimes (wet),  Hot Flushes (sun) & Ben's (weak).  Managed Saline Drip and was making headway on the sit when skin and sun stopped play.  Never leave the garage.

Sat - AeroCap in garage.

Sun nowt

[nai]

(Thanks Shark)

this winters colds have been nasty - take care of yourself and don't try to do too much too soon

I've also not had one yet, feels like a ticking bomb

[Sasquatch]

2 weeks worth
2017 Goal - 12 of 40 Ticked

M-Rest/work
T-MB Session - 25 problems up to given grade of 8A (prob actually 7C)
W-Travel
T-Drive 11 hours
F-Beach - Surf
S-Mtn Bike
S-Surf

M - Travel / short 30min bike
T-Climb Joshua tree. 10 problems including a 7C+ for tick #10 of 40.
W-Travel - drive 10 hrs
T-Fly back to AK
F-FB MAW 3x10secx18mmx255total weight, MB(16 problems up to 7C) , and short outside session working new 8A/+just put up the previous Sunday by a mate.
S-Rest/Work/Family
S-fly overnight, Short AM session pre rain.  Check #'s 11 and 12 of 40!! 

Stoked. Good couple of weeks.

[Yossarian]

Saturday

Drove around the Sandstone trying to find a new crag to visit that was dry. Both Eridge and Harrisons a bit damp so ended up at Bowles again.

Tried Banana Hammock 6C which felt tough in the sun/hot temps, great problem though. Best i've tried on southern sandstone.
Did Tobacco Road Extension 6B+
Tried Sonic Blue 7B, some progress, worked out how to get the fingerlock solidly.
Tried Phasis, 7C. Could hit, but not quite hold the first move.

Fun session, quite hot and sunny but keen to keep trying harder boulders and hopefully learn how to climb a bit harder!

Stone Farm was nice and dry, but if you're driving any distance I think you prob made the right choice in terms of more problems of better quality.

[tommytwotone]

STG: regular climbing
LTG: Font 7anything


M: Mum visiting so off work till Thurs. Came into Leeds, pottered about. Discovered that Clem (6 weeks) had caught chickenpox off his sister.
T: Went 10-pin bowling, beat 2 65+ year olds and a 3-year old girl. Still got it. Went to The Lab afterwards but Una wasn't keen to climb (they've taken off a load of the lower / bigger holds in the kid's section, rendering it largely impossible for her to get on the wall sadly). On theplus side, my Mum kept her busy while I did an intense hour of running around doing as much as I could and powering out quickly.
W: Nowt much.
T: Nowt.
F: Gym on lunch. More of the programme I've been following, plus a couple of 100kg deadlift singles and a complete failure at getting 120kg off the deck.
S: Stuck indoors tending to chickenpox-y baby. Did YouTube "yoga for climbers" while he had a kip. Found it quite tough. Even found time to play a bit of XBox Fifa but I still can't bloody score!
S: Nowt. Mother's Day stuff.


Another bad week for family health - as one gets over chickenpox the other gets it.

[T_B]

M - Lunch: Autobelays, recovery (about 10 in total up to 6c)
T - The Tor. 4 degrees. I was useless (particularly achey left lat). Couldn't do start of S/band nor P/humps. Dave did Influx.
W - Lunch: AeroCap. LI Approx 5 x yellow 6cs, 4 x black 6b+s, 3 x 6bs.
T - Flew to Spain for family do
F - Checked out the boulders at Olta (like Font, but the antithesis in every which way)
S -
S - PM. Tried to do a F/board sess but lat so stiff couldn't do a pull up. 5k run instead (first for 2 wks). Promising.

Totally rubbish sess on Tues (no strength, no power), maybe still tired from the previous Sunday? Compounded by BSMA-induced left-lat stiffness.
Managed not to indulge too much on family w/w in Spain.
Need to do less enduro now and focus more on power and AeroPow.
Tentatively psyched that I could run 'properly' on Sunday pm with minimal tendon pain.

On the subject of colds, I have just got my third (?) of the winter. Never used to get em at all.

[Luke Owens]

M: Lunch -
1 x 10 Bicep Curls (20kg bar)
2 x 5 reps of IYT's (4kg)
2 x 10 Press-ups
2 x (5 x 5s) L-Hangs
4 x 20s Superman
3 x 10 Inverted rows

T:Lunch -
3 x 5 reps of IYT's (4kg)
3 x 10 Press-ups
3 x 10 Shoulder rotations (4kg)
2 x (5 x 5s) L-Hangs

Eve: Pantymwyn - Almost went indoors due to apocalyptic forecast, risked it anyway, went out and didn't actually rain at all... Warmed up with a few reps on Under the Gate (6B+), First go on Panty's and I got to the last hold, then faffed for ages trying to sort my feet out and couldn't match... fell off, couldn't believe it! Had 5 mins rest then I did it and it felt easy which was nice! Worked the sit start moves and managed to do them, keen to get back for the full thing.



W:Lunch -
2 x 5 reps of IYT's (6kg)
2 x 10 Tricep Curls (10kg)
2 x 10 Press-ups
2 x (5 x 5s) L-Hangs
3 x 10 Inverted Rows
3 x 10 Eccentric wrist curls (palms up, both arms)

T: Lunch -
3 x 5 reps of IYT's face down (4kg)
3 x 10 Press-ups
3 x (5 x 5s) L-Hangs
3 x 10 Inverted Rows
3 x 10 Shoulder rotations (4kg)

Eve: Pantymwyn - Seepage had took over. Worked the moves on Panty's Sit Start (7B). Did all the moves and managed to get 3 moves into the original. Despite the wetness this was pretty close to doing the full thing. Psyched to finish it off.

F: Lunch -
3 x 5 reps of IYT's face down (4kg)
3 x 10 Press-ups
3 x (5 x 5s) L-Hangs
3 x 10 Inverted Rows
3 x 10 Shoulder rotations (4kg)

S: Rest

S: Porth Ysgo - First time back in a long time, awesome weather but way to hot to do anything hard. Popcorn Party and ISM Sit were in the sun which were the main 2 I wanted to do.

Did a few easy problems to warm up and a 6B. Had a few goes on Brian Spray hit the edge a few times but left hand was too greasy. Moved on to find some shade, Did Panton's "Watch me Jumpstart" (7A) after a few goes, really techy with a cool insecure slap move. Moved on to try relatively new problem "Knee Deep" (7A+). After many attempts I got really close to doing it but my skin had give up.

[nai]

(particularly achey left lat)

I get what feels like a Lat pain but from all the massage I've been having I think it's actually one of the smaller muscles in there that's prone to knotting up, possibly Serratus Anterior or Terres Major.  They can both be very tender, worth getting a foam roller or tennis ball into the sore spot up against a wall to try and free it up a bit.  Plus stretch it out loads, I'm finding doing lat/side stretches really beneficial after workouts.

[Palomides]

Thanks Shark - although 8pm on a sunday night is a bit early to call the end of the week for me!

M - Foot-on campusing - first attempt at doing something other than fiingerboarding without affecting knee recovery. Good, but the wall only has resin holds that wore holes in my fingers. Need to work out timings.. Using "The Pretender" on an mp3 player for about 4 minutes of climbing time is fun but will be difficult to adapt.

T - Knee Physio: indoor bike, press and compex

W - nuttin.

T - Early morning fingerboard, one set of BM 5c routine
  Afternoon knee physio - as Tuesday but with weights intro at the end

F - nothing
S - nothing

S - Very gentle real bike ride in the sun then evening fingerboard session, 2 sets of BM 5c. All OK apart from crimping. I find it really hard to half- or full-crimp on the Beastmaker's rounded edges. Playing with a resin board at the wall which has Progression style small holds I find it a lot easier. Next week I'll try a full session on one of these boards and see if I'm actually weak on crimps (hard to believe, but possible due to the amount of open-handed indoor climbing I've been doing for the last few years), or if I'm just incapable of using holds in ways that feel unnatural for me.

Question for habitual fingerboard users... How do you decide when to change routines to make things harder? Do you repeat routines until you can comfortabley do all the reps, or aim to be failing on the last 1 or 2 reps??

[T_B]

(particularly achey left lat)

I get what feels like a Lat pain but from all the massage I've been having I think it's actually one of the smaller muscles in there that's prone to knotting up, possibly Serratus Anterior or Terres Major.  They can both be very tender, worth getting a foam roller or tennis ball into the sore spot up against a wall to try and free it up a bit.  Plus stretch it out loads, I'm finding doing lat/side stretches really beneficial after workouts.

Good knowledge. I will raid the missus' spiky ball collection. I did it on back street mime artist I think and given the nature of the moves on that, it could well be that I've pulled something 'weird' as the moves on that are non-conventional...

[dave]

Question for habitual fingerboard users... How do you decide when to change routines to make things harder? Do you repeat routines until you can comfortabley do all the reps, or aim to be failing on the last 1 or 2 reps??

If you can comfortably do all the reps than you can't be having to try that hard - hence make it harder.

[nai]

I have a variety pack of spikey balls but have come to the conclusion that a 50p decathlon tennis ball works better.

Sent from my XT1068 using Tapatalk

[the_dom]

S: Early hit at Curbar, did Early Doors:

I did this last Sunday thinking it was Gorilla Warfare. After checking the guide, I can happily admit that I was mistaken and will take the 7A+ tick (because what I did didn't feel 7A either!)

[TobyD]

Monday turbo 20 minute: power; run 27 minutes
Tuesday turbo 20 minute; foundry aerocap, arms not recovered from Sunday
Wednesday turbo 20 minute; foundry aero power (?)
Thursday turbo 20 minute; foundry aero something
Friday turbo 20 minute: cadence; run 29 minutes
Saturday turbo 20 minute cadence; foundry,  repeaters 5x 5on, 5off; aero something 20-25 minute run in the evening
Sunday yoga and core; foundry aero something; lovely afternoon walk around Burbage.

Can anybody tell me roughly what energy system 70-80 move blocks, rest time = roughly 1.5 x work time would equate to? It's not exactly like it matters, as im not on a strict plan, just interested. O, the intensity is 1-2 grades below current limit. 

[Murph]

Hello everyone, going to get back into this I reckon.

Currently got tendinitis in elbow and shoulder and being ruined by childcare and sleep deprivation. But somehow against all odds I've recently got the mojo back.

Plan (made Tuesday afternoon): 4x rehab per week, 3x fingerboard max hangs. Stop eating chocolate and bread. Skip breakfast thru week. I'm calling this the Minimal Training Plan and will diarise here just how effective it is.
Goal: 7B lime, 40kg max hangs on 14mm, get back to fighting weight.

M-rehab

T-brief session on Zippy's Traverse @Plantation. It should go.
BM1k - 10s +33kg on bottom 20mm rung. Completed 4/7 sets.

W-rehab

T-BM1k - 10s +33kg on bottom 20mm rung. Completed 7/7 sets.

F-rehab

S-rehab

S-quick family session at pock block / cobra. Couldn't remember how to do the SDS 7A+ thing.
BM1k - 10s +33kg on bottom 20mm rung. Completed 7/7 sets.

Bread watch: one absent minded children's crust.
Chocolate watch: none. Even took the flake out of an ice cream.

Weight: fighting + 8kgs

[gme]

I am constantly amazed by the disparity between what people can deadhang and the grades they are doing/targeting.

I have been campusing and deadhanging in arelitivly organised manner for two and a half weeks and can hang bottom bm1k edges with 30kg fed for 10secs. Need to take off 12 kg to hang the bottom edge on the 2k with one hand and can't lock off one armed on a bar. Yet can pretty consistently do 7A+ 7B in a session on moonboard and outside.

Lots on here seem to be doing much harder things on beastmakers but targeting 7A/B problems. Surely if you can one arm hang the bottom rung of bm2k without assistance you can boulder 8A ish.

I am questioning this as I am still not a total believer in hangs and struggle to stay focused on them long enough to see if they work. Have managed to do 6 sessions now and seeing hang improvements. Just hoping it transfers to the rock.

[shark]

I have been campusing and deadhanging in arelitivly organised manner for two and a half weeks and can hang bottom bm1k edges with 30kg fed for 10secs. Need to take off 12 kg to hang the bottom edge on the 2k with one hand

Had a double take there. Presumably you did mean have 12kg of pulley weight assistance rather than take 12kg off the 30kg (ie 18kg) to hang one-handed.

[Murph]

I am constantly amazed by the disparity between what people can deadhang and the grades they are doing/targeting.

Amen to that. I'm out of shape at the minute but can pull some ok max hang numbers on the fingerboard, (+45kg at 62kg bw on 14mm) relative to my grade (three 7Bs in a lifetime) but:

1. I am truly a shit climber with close to no technique or skill or flexibility.
2. My deadhang form *was* pretty shit - shoulders unengaged and stuff so maybe my numbers don't count. Certainly, one arm strength was lacking because of this.

Personal experience, the FB-grit carry over is very poor compared to FB-lime.

Surely if you can one arm hang the bottom rung of bm2k without assistance you can boulder 8A ish.

Yes that is the standard according to Tom Randall. He says the correlation is 100-110% of BW for 8A.