[shark]

It is in the definitive guide and the people have spoken. Get over yourselves.

cough

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=11497

You types like experts. Here's what the experts say:

http://tv.thebmc.co.uk/videos/bmc-grading-squad-in-action/

[petejh]

STG: Send existing projs at Crag X (NI), Mega Crag X (NI), G.Orme and Gideon.
MTG: first 8b+ (Mecca), spring. Continue bolting/sending new routes at Mega Crag X (spring-summer). Explore more of Ireland. Send 2 projs on L.Orme (late summer)
LTG: 8c, by June 2018

Week 5 / 10 before Mecca.

M. Boardroom. Aerocap. 1 on/off on 7a+ circuit, rested 10 then repeated.
T.
W. Kettlebell sesh.
T. Fingerboard max hangs. 5 reps of 10secs with 24kg on 20mm edge (BM slots with battery in).
F.
S.Mill. (no leccy). Ancap on campus board. Increased the difficulty from last sesh. 4 reps of 1357,down ladder,1357. Repeated 3 times, with 10mins rest between sets. Completed all twelve reps with gas in the tank, responding well to this training and need to make harder again.
S. Beacon. Aerocap. 2 x 10mins on 6b+ route with 2mins rest between. Core/mobility sesh. Kettlebell sesh.

Decent week, ancap and aerocap coming along, another 2 weeks until I drop them and switch to power and aeropower.

[duncan]

STG: Rehab. elbow
MTG: tbc
LTG: 7b. E5.

M - Shoulder rehab. exercises. Hip and trunk exercises.
T  - Westway: 6 routes to 5+.
W -  Shoulder rehab. exercises. Hip and trunk exercises.
T - Westway: 6 routes to 5+.
F -
S - Damp and misty Winspit, with Mike Highbury. Crag busy with friends and a former BMC prez. 8 routes including Silver Bream Machine 6c, the latter with move-by-move beta from the first ascentionist.
S - Tired and aching, mostly in a good way. Cycling with the lad.

Good week, good to get out, elbow getting better.
Plan: more of this sort of thing.

[tomtom]

Rockcity Hull. My love hate relationship with this festering plywood creation continued. Stupidly graded problems (one 6B is a path - the next 6B is impossible) sandtext coated walls to give you road rash if you do something wrong

I think Steve McClure does a lot of the setting there. You can often spot his problems, as many are NAILS for the grade.

Yeah - he was setting routes on Mon... sometimes gets Zippy to do some routes too IIRC... but not a good set on the bouldering at the moment IMHO...

[galpinos]

Firstly, why is it a Tor? Its not a tor..........

The "gorge" is call the Torrs, hence there's the Torrs Vale Mill, etc down there. Nothing to do with being a "Tor". I don't know the origin of the name though.

[tomtom]

Firstly, why is it a Tor? Its not a tor..........

The "gorge" is call the Torrs, hence there's the Torrs Vale Mill, etc down there. Nothing to do with being a "Tor". I don't know the origin of the name though.

Ah - I am incorrect - thanks for pointing that out. A brief google reveals nothing on Torrs... I did find out one of the problems I did was 6C though, so not feeling the complete failure I was earlier

[tommytwotone]

STG: get fit / time to train, then train

LTG: Font 7 something


M: nowt, day's work after 2 hours' sleep following A+E debacle with baby night before.
T: Lunchtime gym session. More of this: [size=78%]http://www.muscleandfitness.com/workouts/workout-routines/4-week-foundation-workout[/size]


Just as an experiment stuck 80kg on the deadlift bar to see what happened and did a few. Upped it to 100kg managed a couple of singles.


W: Not too sore considering. Nowt exercise-wise, then got home to find out Una had chickenpox.
T: Gym on lunch again but totally out of sorts, tired, a bit queasy. Battled through the workout but binned it off a couple of sets before the end.
F: Nowt.
S: Nowt, looking after very poorly Una.
S: More of the same. Managed an hour's walk with Clem in the sling but that's about it.


Mixed week. Noticed my PC entries are probably not the best advert for parenthood / parenthood of > 1 child.

[psborland]

M: Hangboard - endurance focus; 20mm edge 7 on 3 off x 12.  4 sets with 2 min rest . 15  minute rest and repeat. Pumped.
T: kettlebells & Climbflow core routine.
W: BBC working on red circuit (V5-7).
Th: core routine b
F; Quick session on garage board.
Sa: none
Su: Llanymynech , wishing I had been more disciplined with endurance training (35M routes) 6b+;7a; 7b dogged badly. Went home, ate & passed out.

resolved to bite the bullet and really get stuck into endurance training.

[Muenchener]

M: Rockcity Hull. My love hate relationship with this festering plywood creation continued. Stupidly graded problems (one 6B is a path - the next 6B is impossible) sandtext coated walls to give you road rash if you do something wrong - and this week a stupid fucking nubbin on the pointy fucking tip of a wanky fucking volume let to my foot pinging off and being lanced by the tip just below the knee. Fuck that. Fucking plastic and plywood... why did I bother putting my foot there - I could see the numbers - see what would happen.



This is how it looks today - a week later...

Same thing happened to me - nasty slippery volume foothold at the start of a problem (shoulda stuck to the moonboard, much safer). As an added bonus, this happened just before the family winter holiday and the large bruise was exactly at the spot on my shin where a snwobaord boot presses.

[SA Chris]

been a while.

Posted last weeks activity on snoowboarding.

M - last day ski - amazing morning. Travel home
T - nothing, knackered
W - wall session. felt OK, but skin a bit thin after 2 weeks of no climbing and wearing damp gloves, but didn't climb too badly.
T - nothing
F - nothing
S - 10 k run in morning. Started off showery, ended up pissing down. ended up with a few hill reps. token core session in evening.
S - walk with kids, nice day.  token set of curls.

[filz]

M: nothing
T: weights. deadlifts, farmer's walk. Press ups
W: finger board during lunch break. Board in the evening. Tired at the end
T-F: work till late. Nothing
S: fb max hangs. Bad session. Then weights. More farmer's walk and deadlifts.
S: Tried to hang on the bar and do some pull ups, but DOMS in my forearms and a small contracture of the right deltoid suggested me to take a couple of days break from pulling. In the end I did a few plank holds and bridges.

[Duma]

Goals:
Good winter bouldering season,
8A (Hunters Roof? Full Power?)and 8b by June
In shape for SA in summer.

Body Audit: Shoulder ok. Fingers: Ok but very little climbing to test them recently.
Sleep: OK.
69kg.

M: nothing, motorbike training all day, sore throat coming on. (~6hrs, 0dk)
T: nothing, motorbike training then test ( ). Was going to take new bike out, but ill so went home to bed for a couple of hrs after. Nice meal later to celebrate but ill. (~7hrs, 3dk)
W: nothing, ill. (~5hrs, 0dk)
T: nothing, ill (took bike out anyway  ). (~9hrs, 0dk)
F: nothing, off work ill. slept all morning, improved a lot by afternoon. Eve drive to Dartmoor (~7hrs, 2dk)
S: Coombeshead, didn't think I had much left to do here and not sure how I'd feel after 9 days of not climbing and illness, but really good time. Repeated a bunch of stuff in the 6's, and got Peeping Tom (7C in the guide but realistically ~7B) second go, then a nice (but sadly eliminate/tight line) 7A slab to finish. (~7hrs, 3dk)
S: was still damp and drizzling at Saddle Tor when we got there late morning so continued back to Bristol and TCA - pretty knackered from sat but managed the Wood on the mothership that I couldn't do a 2 weeks ago, then worked out the blue that had been defeating me so finished by completing that circuit which always feels like a good workout (~7hrs, 2dk)

Excellent week overall, despite the illness and minimal climbing. Really good to finally get out again, first time on rock since 2nd Jan I think.

[Sasquatch]

2017 Goal - 9 of 40 Ticked
Goals for this week
Clean snow off a few projects in prep for spring season - Check
Attempt to climb outside, despite forecast of a high of -5 - Check
Hopefully tick #'s 9 and 10 of 40   - Check #9, but no #10

M - Snowbike ride and a bit of shoveling.  Managed to lose phone 
T - Short outside session at -10 to -12C, surprisingly OK. 
W - Snowbike ride- so fun
T - Short route session w my wife - 5.11,11,12,12,13,11,12
F - Long boulder session in evening
S - shovel snow a house
S - Nice long outside day.  Amazing conditions and sun.  Managed 2 FA's, one v7ish, one v10ish (#9 of 40), and also managed the second ascent of this:

Fright of the Bumblebee - v8
And worked another line that will likely be v10ish with one of the worst footholds I've ever used.

Fantastic week overall. 
This week we fly out to California for some sun and Beach time.   

[fried]

M - Indoors 2h
T - Work....developed a cold (2nd in 2 weeks) meh.
W - Sick at work
Th - ditto, family arrive in evening, Dad arrives sick.
Fr - sick, go to the Louvre.
Sa/ Su - Beautiful weather spent with folks outside on bar terrasses and walking around in sun. Everyone is better.

Not much climbing to report

[webbo]

Mon. Felt crap nothing.
Tue. Nothing.
Wed. Nothing.
Thu. Board just did a few old problems. Bike 31 miles 1hr 59 mins mega windy.
Fri. Bike 64.05 miles 3 hrs 46 mins.
Sat. Nothing.
Sun. Board just lapping stuff with different footholds. Having seen myself in the mirror I thought I better do some weights. Dumbbell workout light weights. Bike 25.58 miles  1 hr 29 mins intervals.

[the_dom]

My last week of solid training before my Peak trip (which coincided with a week of serious eating and drinking unfortunately)..

Mon: Lunchtime deadlifts up to 3 x 145kgs, followed by a big bouldering session and a solid hangboard session on the BM slopers.

Tues: Hike and home core session.

Wed: Pretty good bouldering session followed by too much wine and bad food.

Thurs: Deadlifts up to 160kgs followed by a solid hangboard and core session.

Fri: Hangover. Hike.
 
Sat: Day out at Echo Valley falling off everything. I hate Echo Valley, for some reason I'm always shit there.

Sun: Big day out - 90 mins of bouldering, followed by deadlifts, hangboarding and campusing

Big week.

[Luke Owens]

S - Nice long outside day.  Amazing conditions and sun.  Managed 2 FA's, one v7ish, one v10ish (#9 of 40), and also managed the second ascent of this:

Fright of the Bumblebee - v8

Nice one Sasq! Looks like a great problem!

[Sasquatch]

S - Nice long outside day.  Amazing conditions and sun.  Managed 2 FA's, one v7ish, one v10ish (#9 of 40), and also managed the second ascent of this:

Fright of the Bumblebee - v8

Nice one Sasq! Looks like a great problem!

Thanks!

It's been high on the goal list!

[TobyD]

Ah, I was hoping you had a magical shorter persons way of doing the match.  In isolation I can just about get my left foot on the obvious big hold by bumping my right hand off the comfy sloper onto a crimp next to it then get into a fairly solid horizontal Egyptian.  But I don't think that'd work on a link, I'm reduced to trying to snatch the rail as I fall past it which is fairly low percentage.

sounds exactly like what i tried too. IIRC you can slow the 'fall' with heel pressure?

[nai]

Worked out yesterday that buy using a foothold just down and left for the right I can get LF on the big blocky thing a lot easier and I managed to do it on a link from the kneebar.  Unfortunately there's three moves in a row I can fall off fresh but as I also linked start to matching the lip crimp with the kneebar in I guess I have to start trying it fo real.

[TobyD]

Worked out yesterday that buy using a foothold just down and left for the right I can get LF on the big blocky thing a lot easier and I managed to do it on a link from the kneebar.  Unfortunately there's three moves in a row I can fall off fresh but as I also linked start to matching the lip crimp with the kneebar in I guess I have to start trying it fo real.

If you haven't already done it in a couple of months I'm well up for a session!

[Coops_13]

STG: Fix elbow and crush Swizzy
MTG: 7C
LTG 8A

M: Tried out the Showroom in Lincoln, very small poor bouldering
T:
W:
T:
F:
S: Arch with gf, fairly good session feeling strong
S:

Working in Lincolnshire for the next couple of months with no quality walls or rock nearby

[tomtom]

Working in Lincolnshire for the next couple of months with no quality walls or rock nearby

Whereabouts in Lincs? For the South IIIRC there is a wall in Kings Lynn, if you're in N.Lincs then bridge across to Hull and (gulps at potentially recommending it) Rockcity...

[Coops_13]

Working in Lincolnshire for the next couple of months with no quality walls or rock nearby

Whereabouts in Lincs? For the South IIIRC there is a wall in Kings Lynn, if you're in N.Lincs then bridge across to Hull and (gulps at potentially recommending it) Rockcity...

Middle of nowhere 45 mins SE of Lincoln, I'll have a look at those options cheers