managed to do it the strict way and Dolly didn't, and couldn't even when I lent him my Whites. First time I'd out-bouldered him in 33 years.
Last move such a heartbreaker, find it hard enough in isolation, really not sure I'll ever do it from the start.
. Pulled on start of Tin Of 7b+
Moose: you are just woodstruck - it happens; sometimes for years. Go with what you feel
Quote from: lagerstarfish on March 12, 2017, 10:51:53 pmMoose: you are just woodstruck - it happens; sometimes for years. Go with what you feel"woodstruck"... lovely turn of phrase.. Aye, hopefully, it's just new love . But, I am genuinely a bit worried that I am losing my ability to cope with compromise. I suspect most of my successful seiges have been built on a willingness to get out and get "money on the bank" on even the crappest of days. I can see myself becoming someone who just "trains" when it's sub-optimal, and never ticks anything due to always waiting for the perfect day that never comes (and when it dioes come, feeling so much presure, that I fail through stress).
I feel that there is proper danger that I might might just become a recluse and Lord of my own board. Anyone else suffer similar.
Quote from: nai on March 12, 2017, 09:50:30 pm Last move such a heartbreaker, find it hard enough in isolation, really not sure I'll ever do it from the start.PMA! Give me a few months and I'll show you now its done...
Quote from: shark on March 12, 2017, 09:12:36 pm. Pulled on start of Tin Of 7b+ I thought Grimer was the person the BMC employed to randomly upgrade things?
...sneaked off to New Mill Tors for a couple of hours. Firstly, why is it a Tor? Its not a tor, its a gorge - a bedrock gorge where the Goyt cuts down through the grit. A tor is moortop outcrop - often granite... WRONG ROCK. WRONG LOCATION.
Quote from: TobyD on March 12, 2017, 10:49:12 pmQuote from: shark on March 12, 2017, 09:12:36 pm. Pulled on start of Tin Of 7b+ I thought Grimer was the person the BMC employed to randomly upgrade things?He did, Simon's just such a company man and toeing the party line.
It is in the definitive guide and the people have spoken. Get over yourselves.
Rockcity Hull. My love hate relationship with this festering plywood creation continued. Stupidly graded problems (one 6B is a path - the next 6B is impossible) sandtext coated walls to give you road rash if you do something wrong
Quote from: shark on March 13, 2017, 09:22:13 amIt is in the definitive guide and the people have spoken. Get over yourselves.coughhttps://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=11497
Quote from: tomtom on March 13, 2017, 08:49:45 amRockcity Hull. My love hate relationship with this festering plywood creation continued. Stupidly graded problems (one 6B is a path - the next 6B is impossible) sandtext coated walls to give you road rash if you do something wrongI think Steve McClure does a lot of the setting there. You can often spot his problems, as many are NAILS for the grade.
Firstly, why is it a Tor? Its not a tor..........
Quote from: tomtom on March 13, 2017, 08:49:45 amFirstly, why is it a Tor? Its not a tor..........The "gorge" is call the Torrs, hence there's the Torrs Vale Mill, etc down there. Nothing to do with being a "Tor". I don't know the origin of the name though.
M: Rockcity Hull. My love hate relationship with this festering plywood creation continued. Stupidly graded problems (one 6B is a path - the next 6B is impossible) sandtext coated walls to give you road rash if you do something wrong - and this week a stupid fucking nubbin on the pointy fucking tip of a wanky fucking volume let to my foot pinging off and being lanced by the tip just below the knee. Fuck that. Fucking plastic and plywood... why did I bother putting my foot there - I could see the numbers - see what would happen.This is how it looks today - a week later...
S - Nice long outside day. Amazing conditions and sun. Managed 2 FA's, one v7ish, one v10ish (#9 of 40), and also managed the second ascent of this:Fright of the Bumblebee - v8
Quote from: Sasquatch on March 13, 2017, 04:55:09 pmS - Nice long outside day. Amazing conditions and sun. Managed 2 FA's, one v7ish, one v10ish (#9 of 40), and also managed the second ascent of this:Fright of the Bumblebee - v8Nice one Sasq! Looks like a great problem!
Ah, I was hoping you had a magical shorter persons way of doing the match. In isolation I can just about get my left foot on the obvious big hold by bumping my right hand off the comfy sloper onto a crimp next to it then get into a fairly solid horizontal Egyptian. But I don't think that'd work on a link, I'm reduced to trying to snatch the rail as I fall past it which is fairly low percentage.
Worked out yesterday that buy using a foothold just down and left for the right I can get LF on the big blocky thing a lot easier and I managed to do it on a link from the kneebar. Unfortunately there's three moves in a row I can fall off fresh but as I also linked start to matching the lip crimp with the kneebar in I guess I have to start trying it fo real.
Working in Lincolnshire for the next couple of months with no quality walls or rock nearby
Quote from: Coops_13 on March 15, 2017, 10:10:49 amWorking in Lincolnshire for the next couple of months with no quality walls or rock nearby Whereabouts in Lincs? For the South IIIRC there is a wall in Kings Lynn, if you're in N.Lincs then bridge across to Hull and (gulps at potentially recommending it) Rockcity...