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UKB Power Club Week 366 27h Feb - 5th Mar 2017 (Read 10209 times)

shark

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Easy week

11.1-4

M. Lunch Yoga. Eve  Depot steep yellow 6a+ 1x1 1x2 1x3 3x4. Quintiples next.

T. 

W.

T. Malham. With ever optimistic Mina who also persuaded Ryan and Maddy to come. Cold. Lots of wet streaks. Undercut by 3rd and top of Oak wet. Cons x 2 f&ee x2 Go 1 on Oak did route effectively in 3 sections. 2 more goes with best link on both being throw to midway across top traverse. Felt strong but crampy from cold. Good to benchmark and strength is there but meaningful links requires the 3rd undercut to be dry.

F. Conners came over so went to Foundry at lunchtime. Warm up on Wave. Couple of warm up routes. Fell off near the top of the red 6c+. Dogged up black 7c a couple of times. Somehow managed to use a stranger's rope which was embarrassing. Nick thinks I should have more general aerobic fitness as I keep burning out at a certain point. I'm doubtful and think that phasing in  aeropower training is required.

S.

S. Somewhat hungover. Tried to do a benchmark max hangs on lattice edge late afternoon. Was awful

Key three week phase now cranking PE levels up. This means hard exhausting sessions which I'm not looking forward to

fried

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Thanks you

Just for my notes...nothing ill all week, not enough to be off work, but enough to be too tired to do anything after. Better since yesterday, climbing tomorrow.

tomtom

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<finger hovers over the punter Shark button...>

shark

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<finger hovers over the punter Shark button...>

Back off girlfriend. Have you never wondered why all those who puntered me have met untimely deaths

tomtom

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<finger hovers over the punter Shark button...>

Back off girlfriend. Have you never wondered why all those who puntered me have met untimely deaths

They're all still alive - unless 3-9 is now a fake account run by you..

One of your punter points is for using a ladder :D

T_B

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M - Lattice. 112, 84, 70, 42, 28, 25, 24. PB on first rep, but tailed off more quickly. Not that warmed up?
T - Autobelays. Did reps on yellow 6c, then thought I'd try the 7b+. Got quite high on first attempt, then did next go and repeated again. Felt like I could recover at the rests.
W - Lunch run
T - Lunch Max hangs. 5 x 25Kg half crimp, 5 x 10Kg middle two. Fingers, including middle right, felt OKish. First f/board sess for a few wks. P.M. Wave bouldering. Later PM medium run.
F - Lunch recovery run.
S - Checked out Rubicon with the Mrs who did a bit. Shoulda taken a dingy.
S - Was planning to do Hope Winter FR but cancelled due to my left foot, which by Saturday was not right at all. PM. Instead went to the Works and had a decent sess on the M/board despite the finger (7A+, 7B, nearly 7B+), followed by the Comp wall.

Some quality sessions, happy to be able to f/board with The Finger. Lattice improvement in terms of max reps. The bad news is my previous left foot/ankle injuries (damaged talus, smashed heel) are causing me issues with the running. Was gutted not to race on Sunday, but definitely the right decision. Need to see if it settles down or whether it's the first sign that I shouldn't be doing it at all  :'(

Muenchener

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STG: Left leg pistol squat
MTG (Spring 2017): Redpoint 7b
LTG (<= 5 years): Redpoint 8a before I hit 60.

Moon! Beams  ;D

M: Snowboarding, Kühtai
T:   Snowboarding, Kühtai. Did a spell of the snowboarder's equivalent of falling practice, in the form of voluntary draglift riding.
W: Snowboarding, Kühtai. Snow! Bug dump in the night, best conditions I've had in ages yyfy.
T: Rest day, Innsbruck. Had contemplated a bouldering session at Tivoli, but was feeling pretty knackered from four days on snowboarding, especially playing in the powder from dawn till dusk yesterday, so opted for an actual rest day instead.
F: Snowboarding, Sölden. Managed to find a few vestiges of powder on the glacier for an entertaining afternoon
S: Snowboarding, Kühtai. A few last runs before driving home, thus avoiding the morning traffic jams.

S: Back to work. Moonboard. Summited my first bloc, Cat Attack. Also decent progress on Static Vacation Warm Up 2 - thanks for the tip Nai. Seems as though resting the fingers for a week works, even though with all the lower body exertion on the snow I wasn't feeling particularly rested in general.

nai

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2017 goals - 8a/+ redpoints, 7c onsight, E5 OS, E6 HP, 7C.

Mon - Foundry -

plan had been AeroPow but got sucked into trying the long red spots problem again, made some progress.  Also did a bit on the Moonboard but starting to lose interest in it.

AeroCap

Eve yoga at home

Tue - Yoga at home

Wed - Foundry AeroPow bouldering. Good first set, second a bit scrappy.

Thu
AM - AnCap on new circuit, Decent intensity.
PM - AeroCap
Eve Yoga class

Fr Massage AM & lots of stretching PM.

S nowt

Sun -  garage bouldering - hard to get going, nearly sacked it when I still wasn't firing after nearly an hour of attempted warming up, but got there in the end, tried 3 projects and ended up doing 2 of them.

Meh, I want to go outside now.

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Goals:
Good winter bouldering season,
8A (Hunters Roof? Full Power?)and 8b by June
In shape for SA in summer.

Body Audit: Shoulder ok. Fingers: DIP joint on RH middle finger still tender, feeling ok when climbing but bit of pain after. Slow progress with this, but is going in the right direction.
Sleep: Pretty good this week.
69kg.

M: nothing (~7hrs, 0dk)
T: TCA, plan was to finish off the one on the mothership I couldn't link on Sunday, then try to do the whole blue circuit 1st go. Reality was failing repeatedly on the mothership, then get halfway round the blues and encounter one I couldn't do even in halves.(~7hrs, 2dk)
W: TCA, still not feeling it, just pootled. Still couldn't do the mothership or the blue from the day before, only brief goes at them though. (~7hrs, 1dk)
T: nothing. (~7hrs, 1dk)
F: nothing. (~8hrs, 0dk)
S: nothing, folks visiting and had daughter (~7hrs, 5dk)
S: nothing, folks visiting and had daughter (~?hrs, 1dk)

Less booze and decent sleep, but pretty awful week climbing/training wise. Suppose good form of the last two weeks had to come to an end, just annoyed I didn't get to apply it.

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STG: Send existing projs at Crag X (NI), Mega Crag X (NI), G.Orme and Gideon.
MTG: first 8b+ (Mecca), spring. Continue bolting/sending new routes at Mega Crag X (spring-summer). Explore more of Ireland. Send 2 projs on L.Orme (late summer)
LTG: 8c, by June 2018

Week 4 / 10 before Mecca.

M. Started bolting a mega 30 metre prow at mega crag x. Will be an 8-something if it goes. Flew back in evening.
T. Boardroom. Aerocap (HI). 1min on/off on 7a+ circuit. 2 sets. Then 1 set half 7a+/half 6c.
W. Boardroom aerocap (LI). 1 min on/off on 7a+ circuit.
T. Fingerboard max hangs. 5 x 22kg on 20mm edge (BM slots with battery in).
F. Boardroom. Ancap on campus board. 1357match, ladder down, ladder back up to 7. rest time = 4xwork time. Completed 2 sets of 4; 3rd set completed 1st rep, failed midway on last 3 reps. Good progress.
S.
S. Mill (electricity at last hooray!). Ancap on campus board. 2 x 4 reps of 1357match, down ladder, up laddr to 7. Felt ok, time to drop the rung size or make a move harder.


Decent training week.

tommytwotone

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STG: Get fit enough to climb properly again
VLTG: Font 7something


In an effort to address STG above I've relocated gyms to one nearer work (ideal for lunchtime sessions), and been following the workouts on a random "4 week foundation" thing I found online:


http://www.muscleandfitness.com/workouts/workout-routines/4-week-foundation-workout


As I've only really got Mon-Thurs available to me (I work from home Fri and weekends are taken over by family stuff) I'm a bit over the place with timings but doing the workouts in serial.


M: Gym on lunch - workout C from above. Not too bad.
T: Gym on lunch - workout D from above. Brutal. Nearly threw up after the 4 x 250 row sprint "finisher".
W: Rest day
T: 5:15am start. Gym on lunch - workout A from above. Tough, but upped weights from last round. Still can't do 3 x 10 pullups!


T/F: Fiona lost patience with new baby at about midnight so I took him downstairs and tried to get him down / kip on sofa. He eventually settled at about 3am, and then awoke at 5.30am for a feed. Got him back down at about 6am, then 3-year-old daughter awoke at 6:15am, just as I was drifting back into a much needed power nap!


F: Nowt. For better or worse a full-on day of calls / meetings so at least I had plenty to keep me awake. Crashed out about 11pm, asleep before I hit the pillow.
S: The world looks a much better place after a decent bit of rest.
S: First climbing session in over a month, went to Depot and pottered. Did OK even if I was powered out after an hour. Strong UKB presence in the house.


Having got back, eaten and got the kids down the baby has then started up with some nasty loose bowel stuff, really restless. Called 111 and am currently awaiting a 12:40am appointment at emergency doctor's in Leeds...


TobyD

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Having got back, eaten and got the kids down the baby has then started up with some nasty loose bowel stuff, really restless. Called 111 and am currently awaiting a 12:40am appointment at emergency doctor's in Leeds...

Good luck Tom, I hope all is ok.



TobyD

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mon turbo morning, 30 minute slow run evening
tue 20 minutes turbo morning; repeat session evening
wed Yoga morning; foundry autobelays, bit of core evening
thu 20 minutes turbo; 21 routes at Foundry, 10 warm up up to 6c, 4 sets of 6c+, 6b+, couple of warm downs
fri 20 minutes turbo morning; 30 minutes evening. Legs sore now.
sat 20 minutes turbo; 20 routes at Foundry, 10 warm up up to 6c, 5 sets of 6c+x2
sun 20 minutes turbo; 21 routes at Foundry, 10 warm up up to 6c, 5 sets of 6c+ x2, one warm down 5 (!) 20 minutes core and stretching evening

tomtom

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Hope all OK 3T...

Mon: Started Yoga routine at home - then felt sick. Gave up.

Tu: Late afternoon wall session at RockCity - arriving before 4pm, this was a nearly reasonable £7... It was my first climb in nearly two weeks having rested up my back. Tentative - but OK. back survived.

We: Did Nai's yoga video routine... couldnt do some moves, but felt good afterwards

Th: Yoga, depot Manc. Very good. Worked my quads until they gave up...

Fr: Depot, Manc - climbing this time. Decent session - sort of managed a Purple towards the end which was quite pleasing as trying to get back into shape..

Sa: Rest. MrsTT was ill, so unable to join Team Scouse on Fatnecks weekender - walked 10k with the baby

Su: Yoga video routine - and evening BM session. Burning forearms on slopers. Great.

Weather and life getting in the way of climbing this week (darned life eh!) but back moving on rock plastic again which is good. Back seems to be behaving itself at the moment - so the Yoga is hopefully balancing/strengthening things up...

Luke Owens

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Anyone else find wooden holds easier to hang when warm rather than freezing cold?

M: Lunch - Max weight narrow pinch
Repeated the below for both arms
1 min between reps:
R1: 10s (12.5kg), R2: 10s (15kg), R3: 10s (17.5kg)
1.5 min between reps:
R4: 10s (20kg), R5: 10s (20kg), R6: 10s (20kg)

T: Lunch -
3 x 10 (10kg) Eccentric curls
1 x 6 Deadlifts (50kg)
3 x 20s Tuck lever

Eve - Plas Power - 2 x 8min on 2min off LI-Aerocap

Max hangs - 20mm edge - Open crimp
R1: 9s (+2.5kg), R2: 9s (+5kg), R3: 8s (+7.5kg)
R4: 8s (+10kg) R5: 9s (+10kg) R6: 10s (+10kg)

Annoyingly the fact the wall was absolutely freezing made the wooden edge really difficult to hang compared to usual, felt glassy, ended up trying to warm the wood up by holding my hand on it between reps then once warm I managed 10s with 10kg without much fuss...? Strange...

Roof - Repeated tricky small hold problem from last week. Tried to come up with a new harder problem, couple of hard moves to work on, need to add more roof friendly holds.

25' Board - Added a couple of new holds to the board and did a good tensiony problem off a sloping pinch to a 2 finger pocket. Then worked a hard cross through move with a big span to the font sloper hold then some sloping wooden pinches to the 2 finger pocket. Fell off the 2 finger pocket twice from the start.

W: Rest

T: Lunch - 50 Crunches (+5kg)
30 Side plank raises (15 each side)
5 x 5sec L-hangs
10 Dorsal raises (5kg)
5 IYT's
5 x 5sec L-hangs
10 Dorsal raises (5kg)
5 IYT's
50 Crunches (+5kg)

F: Rested as expected to go to Ysgo over the weekend...

S: Forecast was rubbish so cracked on with DIY in hope to get out on Sunday...

S: Complete washout planned to take the little one to the wall in the afternoon didn't happen as we had stuff to pick up from here there and everywhere. Couldn't find any energy to do a fingerboard session in the evening, shambles...

tommytwotone

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Cheers all - everything was fine. Precautionary check at emergency surgery after a call to 111 led to precautionary trip to A+E for something totally different the doc spotted while examining him. Eventually got home at about 3:30am so today has been and will be a struggle...

Nibile

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Mon - rest.
Tue - rest.
Wed - chaotic session. Warmed up for ab-wheel, then did back extension, then one set of wheel. Then I realized that after two days off it could have been a good moment to try one max PE test. Warmed up for it but was running late, so sacked the warm up and got in. This time I used the metronome for 2" per move rhythm. Got to 3', didn't count the moves. Later on I realized that I hadn't matched on the rungs as usual. Completely useless. Went back on the ab-wheel, felt tired. Finished it all with a Litvinov, deadlift 68 kg x 10 + boxing bag 1', all x 4.
The Litvinov was obviously great, the rest of the session quite useless, mind was elsewhwere.
Thu - climbing class.
Fri - Trap bar 108 kg x 6, x 7, x 7, x 6. Explosive pull ups, 5 x 4. Boxing bag. Brilliant session, was on fire, excellent nutrition timing!
Sat - PE low, 30/30 and 1/1, completed both! It's good to see quick progress. Boxing bag.
Sun - board climbing at Filz's board. Brilliant. Right elbow sore. I got my ass handed to me by that single campusing PE session last week. Never again. Probably.

Hard week, some good training but I must sort my head out, job wise. I'm being personally affected by work stuff, and that's not right. Had a few bad sleep nights and anxiety, all for staying in Court for probably 1'45". It must count as AeroCap.

nai

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Anyone else find wooden holds easier to hang when warm rather than freezing cold?

Few weeks back I was really struggling to hold the rungs on my campus board while doing a foot-on routine, they were like glass.  Then in desperation, almost falling off, I accidentally snagged the middle of a rung and it was Grippy-as. Not sure if it's the grained smoothed down by use or being full of chalk or a bit of both but the difference was huge.

Dolly

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M Bodyweight HIT. Beastmaker until it hurt
T
W Autobelay routes at gym. Pumped and sweaty. Nasty chuffing.
T The Works. Climbed until I couldn't. Did loads of problems, none that hard but I just wanted to climb lots.
F Gym core
S Hurt my throat shouting at the match as we put 5 past Norwich :)
S Shed. Tried really hard on 3 new problems until I was completely powered out.


Another week with no climbing outside. Weather has been rubbish and/or its not co-incided with when I can get out. This week looks like it will be better so chance for some real rock.

duncan

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STG: Rehab. elbow.
MTG: tbc.
LTG: 7b. E5.

M - Shoulder rehab. exercises. Hip and trunk exercises.
T  - 11km walk. Shoulder rehab. exercises. Hip and trunk exercises.
W - 
T - Epic journey to Santa Engracia. 5 hour flight delay (blame Doris) and hire-car screw-up (my fault) meant we didn’t arrive til after midnight.
F - Terradets, Smoking, easy first pitches of two of the longer routes. Hob-nobbed with the climberati at Bruixes.
S - Àger, 3 routes to 6a.
S - Abella de la Conca, 4 routes to 6a. Spectator at Bruixes.
M - Vilanova de Meià - Amatista 6a, 5 high quality pitches.
T - Sant Llorenç de Montgai. A local crag for local people, two routes to 6a, feeling a bit battered by this stage. Flight back, no storm or stress.
W - Shoulder exercises.
T - Westway, warm-up. 10km walk.
F - Hip and shoulder exercises.
S - Westway. Warm-up, 3 routes to 5+. Elbow sore after this.
S - Family birthday, 10km walk, hip and shoulder exercises.


Missed two weeks, there are only so many times you can write elbow rehab., shoulder, hip and trunk exercises.

Good trip: lovely accommodation, great company and amazing food. Enjoyed the climbing at Vilanova de Meià. Six weeks post injury and elbow is still very much in rehab. mode, so no 7b crushing. Patience is allegedly a virtue.

My usual Longish, Hardish and Freeish partner just bailed on the Dolomites this August due to family commitments. Not sure about my fitness for long routes either, it's been particularly hard to get any consistent training done in the last 6 months, and it’s still unclear when I'll be able to stop rehab. and start trying harder. I’m going to focus on U.K. trad. this summer (here comes the wettest in living memory!). Despite half a lifetime of climbing I'm still excited by this and it feels like I still have plenty to do. 

Good luck TTT.

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Another decent week – I even managed to get out onto rock for only the second time this year..

Mon: Lunchtime treadmill hike followed by afternoon campusing session with some TRX core work thrown in. Post-shoulder injury my campusing power is ludicrously bad..

Tues: Lunchtime deadlifts up to 140kgs. PM Moon Board and other bouldering. Decent sessions both.

Wed: Physio for my shoulder followed by 9km hike in the forest.

Thurs: Lunchtime treadmill hike, followed by solid afternoon hangboard session.

Fri: Lunchtime deadlifts up to 140kgs. PM Moon board problems up to 7A or 7Bish

Sat: Bouldering. Outside. Spent too much time bushwhacking and exploring and then got annoyingly close to a new 7C roof that I’d never tried before, after spending ages refining beta. Would have been very buoying to tick it, but I take some satisfaction in getting as close as I did.

Sun: Feeling quite battered and quite hungover, so spent the entire day on the couch except for a 8km hike in the forest.

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M: rest
T: weights
W: lunch. fb. eve board climbing.
T: work till late. Nothing
F: weights with barbell. Deadlifts, farmer's walk, push press.
S: fb. weighted hangs. Good session. Seeing some improvements over previous sessions.
S: board climbing with Nibs and other friends. Lots of fun.

Good training week. I think I haven't climbed on rock in two months. I hope in good weather the next weekend.

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I’m going to focus on U.K. trad. this summer (here comes the wettest in living memory!).
Don't you fucking dare jinx it!!!

webbo

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Mon. Board repeated some old problems. Turbo 1 hour.
Tue. Nothing.
Wed. Board did a couple of new things then lots of goes at a project from last year. Closer than before. Did another couple of new things.
Thu. Board did a couple of new things one went easily the other took a fair few goes. Did project I was trying yesterday first go. Repeaters 5 sec on 5 off x 5 3 sets with 39.5 lbs added. Bike 1 hour intervals.
Fri. Bike one hour longish intervals.
Sat. 30 warm up problems then repeaters 5 secs on 5 off x 5 5 sets with 39.5 lbs added. Bike 66.95. Miles  3 hrs 58 mins battered.

36chambers

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M: lunch yoga
T: Indoors. Feeling weak on the 50, so tried novel 30 board problems. mediocre session.
W:
T: Afternoon Cliff. Too windy. Fell off/blown off the last move on Bruno's Roof. It's become apparent that my tolerance for windy days has officially gone. F88k the wind. Elbows/forearms have been complaining recently so voodoo flossing in the evening.
F:
S: Brimham. Felt rough. Mediocre session on the Fonze, but did manage Mike's Problem (~7B/+ ?) which is excellent.
S: Indoors. 4 (or 5) sets of foot on campusing PE.

Quite a misguided week. After a few months of feeling really strong I've had about 3 weeks of feeling pretty subpar. Off to Font in two weeks so may just taper off till then. Here's to hoping it rains for the next two weeks :devangel:

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M. bouldering session, hard V5-V6 set. foot on campus to finish. middle rung ladders 53s/49s/34s/26s/26s/27s .
T. Kettlebell  Hit
W. BBC bouldering . really tired struggling.
Th. none
F. Core trx routine x2
Sat. None
Sun. Bouldering at BBC, no structure again, should have got back on to endurance training  :oops:  will soon be sport season again

nai

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S - Checked out Rubicon with the Mrs who did a bit. Shoulda taken a dingy.

Did you clock the state of The Sissy by any chance?

T_B

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The middle section looked pretty dry with the advantage of not having 20cm of water at the bottom of it. Given today's sun I would say it's worth a look. Take wellies for access obvs. Just been talking to someone next door (Adam ?) who was telling me there's some key beta for The Sissy that means you don't have to do the minging match. Something about sitting on a heel...

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Cool cheers

I've been on it before with Haydn who sussed a cool method with a heel in the flake for several moves.  Did all the moves like that so that's plan A.  I've also seen a video when someone comes back down to the lower hold with their left, bumps right along then matches.

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2017 Goal - 8 of 40 Ticked
Crazy Travel & Work Week

M - overnight flight to Dallas 11hrs of work
T - 11hrs work, Fb and TRX/Ring work in evening.  First time attempting it on a portable hanging FB, it worked.  Not ideal for measuring progress, or working at limit, but I could certainly do enough try hard to not lose strength.  Good to test out both for travel.
W - work 16hrs, up till 3am finishing presentation for 8am.  Obv short night sleep.
T - work 12 hrs, FB and TRX/core again in evening
F - work am, fly home.
S - work AM, MB in evening.  Good session 21 probs. 9 given 7B+ to 8A. Felt good.   
S - Core/TRX work, support wife during 40K Skate ski race (She PR'd by 20Min!!)

Feel beat up today in a good way.  Psyched I managed to get through the last two week still strong and motivated. 

Goals for this week
Clean snow off a few projects in prep for spring season
Attempt to climb outside, despite forecast of a high of -5
HOpefully tick #'s 9 and 10 of 40 :)




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STG: Fix elbow and crush Swizzy
MTG: 7C
LTG 8A

M: First session back at wall with elbow, took it easy
T:
W:
T: Second session back, went a bit harder. Elbow still good afterwards
F:
S: Third session back. Went harder still, the odd bit of symptom but mostly ok
S:

Elbow feeling ok, the odd symptom still but mostly ok!

Luke Owens

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S - work AM, MB in evening.  Good session 21 probs. 9 given 7B+ to 8A. Felt good.

Monster!  :strongbench:

Duma

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S - work AM, MB in evening.  Good session 21 probs. 9 given 7B+ to 8A. Felt good.

Monster!  :strongbench:

Missed this - sasq you beast!  :bow:

Nibile

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S - work AM, MB in evening.  Good session 21 probs. 9 given 7B+ to 8A. Felt good.   
I'm sure it did.

Sasquatch

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They were "given" those grades.  I think many of them missed the mark :) 


Palomides

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Well behind in posting this up... anyway

M - Beastmaker 5B. Quite pumped and finding half-crimp difficult to engage
T - Physio. Compex and easy leg presses
W- Beastmaker 5B. as above but less pumped, Two-thirds of TRX session
T - Back to work!
F - Physio. Easy exercise bike and leg presses.
  Beastmaker 5B. Getting easier, completed all hangs but sagging from halfcrimp to open hand on the last couple.
S - rest
S - First real bike ride since knee op. Easy 30 minutes but nice to be out.

nik at work

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Forgive me fit club for I have sinned. It has been far too long since I last confessed my weakness.

Dark forces have visited me in three guises (work, family and weather) and led me down the path of temptation to sloth and gluttony, there is a weighty penance to pay. But I shall casts off my sins and with the wings of perseverance rise again to the realm of my blessed brothers. Once again I will join them as they soar through the skies of power on the forceful winds of an-cap and aero-cap.

Yeah that's right, mister chubs has a Font trip coming up at Easter and it could all get a bit humiliating, I'm back in the club (if you'll have me).

Sasquatch

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Yeah that's right, mister chubs has a Font trip coming up at Easter and it could all get a bit humiliating, I'm back in the club (if you'll have me).
nik-Calling yourself Mister Chubs may not get much sympathy here. 

But welcome back to the fold :strongbench:


shark

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Forgive me fit club for I have sinned. It has been far too long since I last confessed my weakness.

Dark forces have visited me in three guises (work, family and weather) and led me down the path of temptation to sloth and gluttony, there is a weighty penance to pay.


Someone get the fattened calf!

Actually on second thoughts..

 

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