[shark]

11.2-5

M. Lunch Yoga. Eve  Depot steep yellow 6a+ 1x1 2x2 4x3 Improvement = could do triples. Quadruples next time

T. 

W. Evening. Couldnt face AnCap so went to Foundry and had a nice time on the new level2's. Autobelay on right side of Furnace has been reinstated. \o/ Checked out a couple of the routes. Black 6b+ disappointingly cruxy. Purple 7a was a gift at the grade but again had a cruxy top move. Maybe purple to top move then cheat at top move and reverse the blue 5 x 3 might work for aerocap

T.  Evening. Sytems board AnCap Did 5 reps instead of 4  per set. Virtually completed first set and got through throw first 4 reps of second. Wasn't getting totally shut down and felt like I could keep pulling Funny light feeling in my arms. Some kind of physiological adaption? Felt like a proper step change improvement.

F.

S. Ben up for going out. Conditions hard to predict so went local to Rivelin. Rewarded with a lovely day. Intention was to go on Purple Haze but we quested past and checked out Mini Beak which is in a lovely setting as you can see the reservoir. Worked on Mini Beak Rib 6B+. Desperate. Ben gave up on it and set to work on Mini Beak 7A. I went for a walk and checked out the fabled Nic’s Wall. Came back and did Mini Beak (about a dozen goes). Ben got Mini Beak. I nearly flashed it but got it third go. Two ace little problems - nice finds Bonjoy. We were too pooped after this to try Purple Haze so went home. Saw Lego Batman in the evening. Just brilliant.

S. Toyed with going to eatswood but felt a bit rough. Was feeling that I had stalled with my fingerboarding but also felt not up for AnCap. In end chose fingerboard and glad I did. Spent the afternoon doing usual lengthy max hangs session (drags only) spread over nearly 5 hours between chores and reading the paper. Smashed my PB by 5kg    Cant quite believe I'm writing that. Feel like Bob Beamon

Conclusion. Must be doing something right

[tomtom]

M:

Tu: Slipstones. Manged to clear my appointments at work and sneaked out. Cold, grippy and great. FINALLY managed Sulky Little Boys - and also got up Micro Corner... decent work on LayBy Arete, but ran out of juice. A great grit day at one of my favourite places - that I only get to visit occasionally.

We:

Th:

Fr: Brownstones. Damp, but progress on Colt - managed to get left foot to a new place where it ought to go before the crux deadpoint.. its getting closer..

Sa: Up to Snowdonia to go walking with a friend. Started up the Glyders - got to the top of the Devils Kitchen and felt like shit - compleletly knackered and nauseous. Back really hurting too.. Went back down - shivvered in B&B bed for a couple of hours. Felt better by the evening and enjoyed a few Lime and Soda's whilst my friend devoured several pints

Su: Still feeling crap so came straight home...

My back has started giving me some fairly serious trouble this week... I think I'm not going to climb this up coming week. Deadhang yes - but climb no.

[James Malloch]

M: Nothing

T: Nothing

W: Depot - Board session on 30 degree. Lots ticked, feeling good.

T: Depot - Board session on 30 degree. Shouldn't have done this really and intend to limit sessions on it for the next week or two. Finger hasn't been healed long enough to be having multiple sessions on it. Ticked lots though, good session.

F: Nothing

S: Almscliff - Fell near the end of the Virgin traverse which was a high/long point. Flashed Silver trout (with block) and then did it sans block with a heel on the arete. Definitely not 7b but not idea what it felt like. Finished off the day ticking Teflon Traverse and had one or two test goes on Crusis - seemed like one to go back to.

Does anyone know when you go into the undercut? Seen a video today of someone getting into it whilst low which seemed like a good idea.

[nai]

2017 goals - 8a/+ redpoints, 7c onsight, E5 OS, E6 HP, 7C.

Mon -
AM - Yoga class
PM - Great AnCap session. Powering through rather than powering out. Only second session on this circuit and I need a harder one..
TRX that I didn't have time for after yesterday's weight session
Eve - yogary stretching

T - 2x30 min yoga/stretching sessions

W - Foundry - relief that the new L2 set are L2 level.
3rd Moonboard session, managed one of my 6c+ projects and another 6c. Progress
HI AeroCap on circuit board.

Th - mini works - 4x10 mins LI AeroCap

Fri
AeroPow boulders, most L2s on Wave but a few with cheats.
shoulder weights/rehab
yoga/stretching Eve

S rest

Sun - had bouldering planned but too tired & had to shelve it.  Light week coming up and it's much needed, was totally goosed after my sessions this week, only managed LI on Thursday as it was going sideways on jugs.

[36chambers]

M: lunch yoga
T: Indoors. Didn't feel great on the 50, switched to one arm max hangs. 6/7 sets using small or mid campus rungs. Good improvements on previous efforts. Went on to climb my small holds project on the 30.
W:
T: Afternoon at Cliff, grim weather. Almost climbed Stu's roof in DWR LH, aka Bruno's Roof (Will Hunt will be so proud).
F:
S: Caley. Team psyche for Zoo York but connies were poor. Foolishly persevered. Even more foolishly ended up on Crystal Method... tweaked some beta which hopefully means it'll go if the temps ever drop below 5 again. 
S: Brimham. Felt broken from Caley, but managed a surprisingly good session on The Fonz. Need to go back ASAP.

[T_B]

M - LI AeroCap
T - Lunch run
W - Intended to f/board but warming up I decided it wasn't a good idea for the finger, as it felt vulnerable. Did 8 of the new L2s on the Wave instead.
T - Lunch Autobelays. Gave some feedback on grades. I dunno maybe I was in a bit of a negative mood but that black and yellow 6c ... it's why I don't really like training on routes indoors. Off-on cruxy and more like 7a. The yellow 7a on the left is easier (more like 6c) and a much better route for lapping. Hey ho, grumpy me. PM - Long run
F - Lunch recovery run
S -
S - PM run. Later PM (I.e. Now) homeboard bouldering. Feeling a bit weedy.

Finger definitely not right. Running going well. Feels like I've been here before..

[petejh]

STG: Send other M10 DT route at Manod. Send existing projs at Crag X (NI), Mega Crag X (NI), G.Orme and Gideon.
MTG: first 8b+ (Mecca), spring. Continue bolting/sending new routes at Mega Crag X (spring-summer). Explore more of Ireland. Send 2 projs on L.Orme (late summer)
LTG: 8c, by June 2018

Week 2 / 10 before Mecca.

M. MA. Core and mobe.
T. Boardroom. HI aerocap on circuit board. 1 min on/off x 10. 10 mins rest. Repeated.
W. Boardroom. Ancap on campus board, large metolius rungs. 13579, ladder down, ladder back up to 7. 4 x work time as rest time between reps. 3 sets of 4 reps with 15 mins rest between sets.
T.
F. Felt ill. Tried an aerocap sesh at boardroom. Just about manage a low intensity aerocap sesh. 1min on/off x 10.
S. Ill
S. Ill. Supposed to be trying to send DT proj at Manod but had to bail as no point following a few hours sleep and feeling ill/knackered still. Went to the Little Orme in the afternoon and abbed into my half-bolted proj. Bolted the rest of it - hard work in a big roof, felt knackered, cold and a bit ill. Good route though - big roof with funky moves. Had a very close shave jugging out of the cliff when the rope dislodged a section of loose blocks 10 metres above narrowly missing helmetless me, would have been very bad or worse. But one glanced my RH. Thought it might have been broken, got out and home, middle finger a bit bashed up and feels stiff and swollen but don't think it's broken. Vitamin I and bed.

Hoping finger will be ok, couple of days off to see how it feels.

[Nibile]

Power Club
Sett 13-19 feb

Mon - board climbing, mega progress on project. Fell on last hard move. Very strong. Muscle snatch 5 x 1; cleans 5 x 1. Brilliant session.
Tue - rest.
Wed - lunchtime: board climbing, climbed project by cheating, i.e. I used a toehook on the swing move. I didn't swing anymore, I was bolted to the board. Then it was still hard but did it. Of course this all does not count, no tricks on my board. I'll keep trying it as usual but I want to keep climbing it with the toehook to build specific strength and stamina. Low PE, 30/30 and 1/1, fell at 40" of 5th set. Progress. Evening: boxing Tabata. Great day.
Thu - got the plates for the trap bar. Deadlifts and Farmer's Walk 108 kg. Climbing class. Brilliant.
Fri - Litvinov variation: deadlift and 30" full out boxing bag. Extremely fantastic.
Sat - somehow managed to rest. I even washed my 2 stroke Yamaha to kill time.
Sun - Lattice test. Farmer's Walk 45/45 x 5, 68 kg. Repped out with deadlifts.

[Duma]

Goals:
Good winter bouldering season,
8A (Hunters Roof? Full Power?)and 8b by next June
In shape for SA in summer.

Body Audit: Shoulder ok. Fingers ok ish, still not completely sorted. DIP joint on RH middle finger still bit tender, not climbed since last Thurs so will see how it feels this eve.
Sleep: pretty decent this week.
68kg.

M: TCA, Reds again, really pleased to get up one of the three I'd not done at 7C/+ ish, felt like had to try properly hard. Spent a bit of time, but no real progress on the other two.  (~7hrs, 1 drink)
T: nothing, top meal. (~6.5hrs, 3dk)
W: nothing. (~7.5hrs, 1dk)
T: TCA, new wood project circuit - all really hard obviously, and little edges meant had to be pretty careful of fingers, but moves feeling possible so probably about right level for me which is really good (~6.5hrs, 0dk)
F: nothing, day 2 of motorbike training and mod 1 test - brilliant, but knackering! (~8hrs, 3dk)
S: nothing, (~7.5hrs, 1dk)
S: nothing, (~7.5hrs, 0dk)

[psborland]

M: Hiit ; Heavy kettlebell workout ; Deadlifts

T:None, feeling rough

W: Ill- (a cold)

Th: Ill

F: Ill; p.m stretching, hip mobility. 2x hollow plank tabata.

Sa: none wanted to save myself for decent weather .

Su: Finally a dry sunday, went to The Roaches

[cheque]

went to The Roaches

...and? 

[Dolly]

I didnt post last week, but didnt climb outside because of the rubbish weather 


M Gym Core
T Shed until I was battered
W Out on cross bike- some road and some off road.
T Tried to do every route top rping at the gym. One I couldnt do and one I'd done before and it was horrible so didnt do it again. Pumped
F Kettlebells and Bulgarian bagging. And that thing you do when you throw a big heavy ball down on the floor and do burpees on it.
S HIT. Would have been OK out, but it was my Mum's birthday do
S I tried to go out but it was wet, so ended up in the shed. I must have done quite a lot as I still feel it now.

[user deactivated]

went to The Roaches

...and? 

X2 hollow plank tabata at Doxey's pool?

[filz]

Deload week.

M: rings: planks, rows and push ups
T-W: some therabands for shoulders
T: Board climbing. Good session. Progress on the latest problem set and set a new one.
F: weights
S: nothing
S: rings: top position, planks, push ups. Bridges. Dumbbell deadlifts. Headstands.

[SA Chris]

Not posted since pre sharkathon, so will add what i can remember

S (11th) - drove to Aviemore, short walk.
S (12th) - 9 k run around snowy Grantown. Carrying heavy camera and stopping too often to take pics did havoc with pace
M - sledging with kids - knackering. Short walk after
T - drove home, no stop at Lecht as planned, weather was crap.
W - bouldering session - felt unmotivated and uninspired.
T - nothing
F - nothing
S - unpacked entire double garage and guy down flooring. Backbreaking. Had reasonable session on mate's LED Moonboard, good fun.
S - walk with kids after lunch, 12km run in evening.

Weight 13 1/2 stone. Struggled to get back down to 13 since Xmas.

[the_dom]

Monday: Weights and bouldering. Decent session.

Tuesday: Hike and core at home

Wednesday: Weights (deadlift de-load and heavy-ish cleans) followed by a solid hangboard session.

Thursday: Decent bouldering session

Friday: Rest day

Saturday: Crappy bouldering session. Hungover, tired, with an achey shoulder. Some fingerboarding and weights.

Sunday: Bouldering and fingerboard. Not a great session, but better than Saturday.

Not the best week - trying to get fit for the grit at the end of March, but felt tired and low on motivation. Oh well. A speculative, very warm Rocklands weekend is planned for this weekend, more as a chance to get away than to do any real climbing.

[Muenchener]

STG: Left leg pistol squat
MTG (Spring 2017): Redpoint 7b
LTG (<= 5 years): Redpoint 8a before I hit 60.

M:
T:   Wall, Thalkirchen with M jnr. Monthly comp night; we both did a bit better than last time yyfy
   Wrapped up the evening with a few sets of shoulder presses and pistol progressions before bed.
W: Wall, Boulderwelt. Circuits. Was more tired than I thought from bouldering yesterday, but still managed to put in a decent session with some projecting on harder circuits, rounded off with a Latticizer set of 20 minutes 1 on 1 off. And some more shoulder stuff and pistol progressions in the weights room.
T: Bike one hour.
F: Wall, Thalkirchen. Tried to mop up a few projects left over from the comp on Tuesday, thinking this would be a better form of finger strength training than staying at home and doing (no-)hangs. Did mop up one of them, but felt anything but strong in the process.
S:
S: Climbing yay. Good forecast so headed out. Most things still in shade and/or wet, ended up on Frauenwasserl a nice little sunny beginners crag, and got some footwork training mileage in on slabs.
Stopped off at my boulder traverse proj in Kochel on the way home hoping for something a little more strenuous but it, too, was in the shade and too damp to do anything but re-learn the sequence for the start of Year Three. I detest the bloody thing, it doesn't have a cool line or pleasant moves, I just want to get it out of the way.
So still in search of getting some actual work done, adjourned to the wall in the evening and spent an hour flailing hopelessly usefully developing contact strength & core tension on the moon board.
Not a great day by any means, but getting outside is better than not getting outside.

[fried]

M- rest
Tu - Indoors, my wall's decided to regulise? it's grading, no more soft 6Bs ..everything's hard, good job but a bit demoralising. I'm not the only one suffering.
We -
Th - too much work
Fr - Weather looking good...
Sa - Outside at last at Canches aux Merciers, really strange conditions due to 16° difference between night and day, climbed everything possible in the sun. Did lots of easy stuff, sometimes in really bad style...long time without a decent session outdoors. Backed off a couple of topouts, one eye on the ground and one on my wallet..meh.

Tried a couple of 6B problems, nowhere near where I was last spring..indoor climbing sucks for winter training.

Nice to be outside though

Su -

[Sasquatch]

2017 Goal: 6 of 40 done
Good Week weight finally starting to drop. 80.3kgs this AM.  Goal is about 75kgs come June. 

M-light cardio, Light shoulder therapy, cleaned snow off nearby secret boulder project
T-Max Hangs, 5x+84lbs (2nd best ever FB session) Then snuck outside for a cheeky winter FA of secret winter boulder project   (#5 of 40 ticked)
W-Skate Ski, 45min.
T-Moonboard- Good Hard MB session - 20 problems mostly hardish ones...(#6 of 40 ticked and last of indoor ticks allowed)
F-Rest Shoulder work
S-Rest, light cardio
S-Boulder local wall - good hard session.  Mainly worked on longer cave problems (12-20 move) which felt pretty nails for me as i was powering out pretty bad.  Too much MB and FB. 

If weather cooperates, I may get outside in WA this week - fingers crossed. 

[Palomides]

Spent most of the week with one leg in a brace day and night following knee op.

M - BM1000 5A routine. Only one set, felt hard. Strange having to hang with one leg sticking out in front.
T - rest - BM app update 2.0 installed.. the easiest routine has been tweaked and looks even easier, no more 2-finger hangs and no more 4-finger chisel on the medium edge
W - rest
T - BM1000 new 5A routine. Lots easier than before update, completed two sets without difficulty. Will move to 5B routine, but will have to learn how to half crimp...
F - took the brace off and spent the rest of the week getting movement back. Wobbly but better and better. No trace of previous knee pain already 

That was it.

[psborland]

went to The Roaches

...and? 

X2 hollow plank tabata at Doxey's pool?

What grade is that one?
A lot was still wet when we arrived, did some easier stuff at upper tier, then spent quite a bit of time trying pink wall eliminate which was really enjoyable, kept sucking me in for just one more try !! Had a quick play on nadin's traverse.

[kelvin]

Tried a couple of 6B problems, nowhere near where I was last spring..indoor climbing sucks for winter training.

Nice to be outside though

The trouble with is indoors there are no footholds small enough to use as practice for those low grade monsters you get on in Font :-)

[fried]

Oh for a wall that had problems with 2 imaginary polished footholds, 2 razor crimps and a slopey top out from hell.

[TobyD]

A late post this week:

Mon Foundry routes
Tue Foundry routes
Wed 25 minutes jog and a bit of core and stretching
Thu Foundry routes pm
Fri Foundry routes autobelays
Sat turbo trainer; Foundry routes autobelays
Sun turbo trainer; Foundry routes autobelays

[36chambers]

Does anyone know when you go into the undercut? Seen a video today of someone getting into it whilst low which seemed like a good idea.

I get it whilst low, before going to the ramp. Originally I jumped to the ramp, but I think it's much easier to just crank to it with a heel or a heel-toe (I saw someone fall off with the heel-toe. He was just swinging there off his foot whilst his 3 "spotters" fumbled around. Luckily he was completely fine afterwards)

[James Malloch]

Does anyone know when you go into the undercut? Seen a video today of someone getting into it whilst low which seemed like a good idea.

I get it whilst low, before going to the ramp. Originally I jumped to the ramp, but I think it's much easier to just crank to it with a heel or a heel-toe (I saw someone fall off with the heel-toe. He was just swinging there off his foot whilst his 3 "spotters" fumbled around. Luckily he was completely fine afterwards)

Cheers - The beta I was given at the time was to move into it after you've got the ramp, with the heel-toe still in. I didn't actually try it for fear of what you just mentioned!

When trying from standing with the undercut I found it okay with a lower toe rather than getting into any heel stuff, though the top sidepull in the ramp was much worse than I was hoping for (though maybe I got the wrong bit?).

Will give it a proper go next time I'm there.

[tommytwotone]

I've fallen off with that heel-toe in there, missed all my spotters and ended up kind of hanging there. Proper freaked me out and killed my psyche for the whole day after that.

[nai]

Missed all your spotters?

A polite way of saying your spotter tomtom wasn't paying attention.

I might have been there too

[James Malloch]

I'm hoping that using a toe doesn't add too much and eliminates that risk...
Are the top holds okay to finish on?

[webbo]

Mon. Board mirror session 41 problems. Bike 15.48 miles 56 mins intervals 20 secs 40 off x 5 3 sets.
Tue. Work nothing again
Wed. Work did nothing again.
Thu. Royal Armouries with daughter and grandson. I planned to train when I got back ended up going to the pub for tea.
Fri. Board did a few new things failed a few as well.  Bike 18 miles 1 hr 2 mins intervals various lengths 17 efforts.
Sat 30 problems to warm up then repeaters 5 secs on 5 off 5 sets with 39.25 lbs added.
Sun. Bike 64.26 miles 3 hrs 50 mins.