[tomtom]

Evening...

M: Funeral and drive back from Southwold to Hull. 5 hours.

Tu: Work. Rockcity in Hull in the evening. My back felt bad - it felt worse afterwards - greasing off a crimp made me slightly pull something in my already tetchy back trying to compensate..

We: Work Drive to Manc

Thu: My back felt awful. Shark was off to try Suavito again, and I had a pass(ish) but turned back half way when I heard it was snowing there.

Fr: Needed to get out - and my back was a little better. Off to Burbage North and pissed about on Blind Date again. Another case of warming up on the problem as everything else was wet/snowy. Nearly gave up after trying to warm up but persisted - was fairly shit in general, despite good conditions for the problem - new VSR worked really well on the left foot hold. No bounce - aching stiff back...

Sa: Drive to Kendal and back to show off TT Jnr to grandparents.. good trip except he developed a sniffle - that had turned into a fever by the time we got home (39.2 degrees...). Some calpol calmed him down, but moderately stressful and not a great nights sleep..

Su: Shopping - then damp trip to Brownstone. Closer on Colt - but not ideal connies as whilst the rock was OK, my mat and everything else got steadily damp in the light snow.. had a play on Big Muff - which was basic and amusing.. got close then lost energy.

Bizarrely my back feels great now..
I think climbing walls are really bad for my back - but I'm not sure why...

[the_dom]

Time to get in shape for my trip to the Peak at the end of March..

Mon: Weights at lunch - 3RM cleans up to 70kgs, 3RM deadlifts up to 140kgs. Good hangboard session in the evening.
 
Tues: One arm max hangs and home met-con

Wed: Bouldering. Decent session, if very warm.

Thurs: Treadmill and core.

Fri: Weights at lunch - 3RM cleans up to 75kgs, 3RM deadlifts up to 145kgs. Solid hangboard session in the evening.
 
Sat: Rest day. Did the (very) tourist route up Lion's Head with the wife. Painful.

Sun: Solid day of bouldering, hangboarding and weights. Feeling worked at the end.

Good week of training.

[shark]

Time to get in shape for my trip to the Peak at the end of March..

    what's the plan?

[the_dom]

Time to get in shape for my trip to the Peak at the end of March..

    what's the plan?

Unfinished business from 2010 and who knows what else. Any recommendations in the 7B to 7C range? I have a strange pathology when it comes to climbing rough brown rock in cold temps. Rather psyched.

[fried]

M - rest
Tu - Indoors 2 sets 5x5 bm slopers, reduced edges. Good, better than last week...good connies maybe
W - nothing
Th - Indoors, Arkose, first time in ages, tough changing wall, but had a fun session.
Fr - Rest, good food, too much wine
Sa - More of the same, got a nasty back ache just sitting in a strange chair.
Su - Had hoped to get out all week, forecast looked good until last minute freezing morning rain...skipped indoors as back was sore. Prefer to get a session in tomorrow.

Roll on the spring......

[nai]

2017 goals - 8a/+ redpoints, 7c onsight, E5 OS, E6 HP, 7C.

Mon - AnCap, weights, yoga/stretching.

T - AeroPow - tried doing a lap of the circuit board 7a followed by an autobelay 7a. Worked quite well, powerful then pumpy.
yoga/stretching

W - Massage. Yoga/stretching

Thu -
AM - LI AeroCap,
Eve - yoga class.

Fri - Moonboard, another spanking but did well enough on some to consider them projects
HI AeroCap
Yoga/stretch.

S hangover following a complete mismatch, a rookie featherweight getting in the ring with experienced heavyweights.

S - Garage board bouldering, constructed some hard new projects, decent session.
shoulder rehab/weights

[shark]

Time to get in shape for my trip to the Peak at the end of March..

    what's the plan?

Unfinished business from 2010 and who knows what else. Any recommendations in the 7B to 7C range? I have a strange pathology when it comes to climbing rough brown rock in cold temps. Rather psyched.

Need anywhere to stay?

[T_B]

M - Autobelays x 25. Mostly sets of 5 x 6b+.
T - PM. Burbage. Raining in S11 apparently, but Dave eventually made it out. Felt weirdly warm but velcro connies on stuff that wasn't seeping. Warmed up around Banana Finger, then got stuck into In the Flick of Time, which I'd tried in early Jan when it was in the sun. Sorted move 1 and 3, then dispatched fairly quickly not without a scary slip going for the jug. Dave tried my beta and generally ragged his skin before crushing it basic style using his OG sequence. Great little problem, reminded me what's so good about the grit.
W -
T - Lunch max hangs. 1 x 25, 1 x 30, 4 x 27 half crimped. 1 x 10, 4 x 13 middle two. P.M. Ran home.
F - A.M. Ran to work. Lunch. Lattice test. 86, 65, 65, 42, 28, 25, 19.
S -
S - A.M. Run. P.M. Homeboard bouldering 1.5 hours.

First time bouldering on rock since early Jan - great.
Tried upping my max hang weight to 30Kg half crimped, but a bit much. Up to 13Kg middle two was fine.
Lattice test - fewer moves (86 v 98) on first rep since last time I tried, but hit 75% on 3rd rep again. Pleased as 5th climbing day of previous 6 days.
Got a niggle middle r-hand finger though

[shark]

11.3-6

M. Lunch Yoga. Eve Aerocap type circuits at Depot

T.  Intended training but too knackered after drive back from Manchester

W. Intended training but Seb texted to suggest Suavito round 2

T.  Freezing fog, trying to snow. Seb texted to try and cry off. Wouldnt let him off the hook. Optimism rewarded - Suavito turned out to be in great nick albeit B..b..b..baltic. Tried the high left foot beta and got my foot up on the large hold a couple of times but was impossibly bunched up. Generated more momentum with the low foot beta and was getting the distance but left foot kept coming off when I was in grabbing distance. Good craic but we gave up struggle to stay warm after 3 hours. Went home. Seb went hunting for new routes. Eve Fingerboard - max hangs

F. Eve. Drive to Malham to give 30 min presentation/discussion which went on for 1.5 hours. Didnt get backing Id hoped for 

S. Didn't sleep well. Snowing. Walk up to Cove to reconnect with place. Unfortunately in a grim mood so not inspired. Drove back to Sheffield. Had a nap. Popped into office. AnCap routine on Systems board. Progress.

S. PM Wave for an hour. Hard levels twos felt easier than before which was encouraging Went home and did lengthy max hangs session

Odd week. Various ups and downs, Should have trained more but hey ho. Seem to be getting weight under control.

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - rest.
Tue - rest.
Wed - Frontal L-sit on BM incut rung half crimp, very pleased (left poor), this thing here image by Nibile, on Flickr.
One foot bouldering + 8 kg, brilliant! After one year and a half from last session, I managed to do all four problems! Low PE 1/1 x 5, fell after 50" on fourth set. Not bad after all the climbing. Dumbbells Tabata. Hell. Great session!
Thu - Low PE 30/30 x 5, completed; 1/1 x 5 fell at 30" on 5th set. Progress.
Fri - Trap bar work, absolutely brilliant! Jumps and press ups. Boxing bag. The future starts here. Great great great. Varying is key for endless motivation.
Sat - one arm work; front lever pulls x 5, trap bar press ups x 10, all x 4. Boxing bag Tabata.
Sun - Low PE 1/1 x 5, completed. Boxing Tabata. Fast and furious.

[TobyD]

M  20 minutes interval session on the turbo trainer squeezed in in the evening when back from Devon after 6 hour grim drive.
T Foundry routes autobelays
W Foundry routes autobelays
T Foundry routes with Simon; steeper angle and easier grades.
F 24 minute jog, rank weather and pretty low level of motivation
S   20 minutes interval session on the turbo trainer, then foundry, 20 routes 5- 7a. bit of core and stretching.
S 20 minute turbo session Foundry. 24 routes in sets of 3, up to 7a, 6b, 6a+, short core session in the evening.

[James Malloch]

Positive week for me training wise.

Monday – Knee Physio
Tuesday – Knee Physio & Leeds Wall indoor Routes. Aim was to take lots of falls to start getting my head in game for a trip in 4 weeks. Managed to drag my way up quite a few low 7’s and took plenty of lobs too.
Wednesday – Rest.
Thursday – Depot. Some bouldering before An-cap on the 30 degree board. Good scene in there & met a few regulars. Finished up with a mini board session on the 30.
Friday – Rest.
Saturday – Short but fast run. Went to the climbing Lab with some friends. Good session on the harder circuits. First time I’ve been able to pull harder without any pain in my finger – YYFY.
Sunday – Depot. Warmed up on the Reds. Had a session on the 50 degree board. Managed “Baby Steps” okay and started work on a few other problems. Psyched to be back board climbing again for the first time in over a year. Managed to lock off on the bar on both arms and do a front leaver (with one leg bent in) on both legs for the first time as well. Think my general training is going well and should hopefully result in a good Malham season.

[Luke Owens]

Had a weird low gravity day on Thursday, despite feeling tired everything felt easier all of a sudden...maybe it's all the hangs? Maybe it's the light week last week?...Who knows...

My Ex-Marine mate has started getting into climbing and coming to the wall with me. Inspiring to see someone pick up things so quickly and managing stuff I don't think I would of been able to do after 2 or 3 times climbing; especially given the fact he weighs 108kg...!

M: Lunch - Max weight narrow pinch
Repeated the below for both arms
1 min between reps:
R1: 10s - 12.5kg, R2: 10s - 15kg, R3: 10s - 17.5kg
2 min between reps:
R4: 10s - 20kg, R5: 10s - 20kg, R6: 8s - 22kg

T: Lunch - 50 Crunches (+5kg)
30 Side plank raises (15 each side)
5 x 5sec L-hangs
8 Leg raises to bar
3 x 10 Dorsal raises (+7.5kg)
5 x 5sec L-hangs
Poor attempt at some lever progressions
50 Crunches (+5kg)

Eve - Plas Power: 2 x 8 min on 2 min off LI-AeroCap

Max Hangs - 3min rest between reps
10s, 10s, 10s - 20mm Edge - Open-crimp
8s, 10s, 10s  - 20mm Edge - Half-crimp

Made up and did a few moves in the roof, should use this section more and add some holds to it. Certain weakness of mine.

20' Board - Made up a couple of hard sloper/pinch problems, did one of them, felt way stronger than I used to last year on these big slopey pinch things. Repeated an old benchmark problem of mine from early last year, haven't been able to do it this winter yet, managed it 2nd go today with reletive ease, wide thin pinch felt easier to hold. Really happy with progress here.

AnCap - 7 x 12moves (2mins rest between reps)
Powered out half way through set 7. Circuit slightly harder than last week.
Had again planned another rep and again ran out of time.

W: Lunch - Circuit
12 Press-ups, 5 x 5s L-Hangs, 5 Leg raises to bar (Short rest)
10 Shoulder rotations (6kg), 10 Scapula pull-ups, 20 Side crunches (both sides)
12 Press-ups, 5 x 5s L-Hangs, 5 Leg raises to bar (Short rest)
10 Shoulder rotations (6kg), 10 Scapula pull-ups, 20 Side crunches (both sides)
12 Press-ups, 5 x 5s L-Hangs

T: Lunch - 30 Crunches (+7.5kg)
Deadlifts - First proper go at these
5 x 70kg
5 x 80kg
5 x 90kg
4 x 100kg

Eve - Plas Power: 2 x 8 min on 2 min off LI-AeroCap

Max Hangs - 3min rest between reps
10s, 10s, 10s - 20mm Edge - Open-crimp
10s, 10s, 10s  - 20mm Edge - Half-crimp
Felt strong on the hangs, probably should start adding some weight

Fell off last move on new roof problem twice, felt good on it.

40' Board - Managed the board problem I've been trying on and off for 2 months, felt pretty easy in the end...weird.

25' Board - Randomly thought I'd try the project I've had on this board for 4 months again. Managed to pretty easily (?!) do the move I've been trying for months. Almost linked the whole thing twice, fell off the last hard move. Again...weird.

5 x 1min on (20moves) 1min off - HI-AeroCap

F: Lunch - 3 x 10 Press-ups
8 x 5s one-arm lock offs (alternating arms)

S: Rest

S: Rest - Kids party, crazy scenes. Had planned to go for a night sesh at the Cave but moved that to today (Monday) instead.

[36chambers]

M: lunch yoga
T: 50 board. Climbed my first hard problem. Since this winter has so far been quite poor on the ticking front I was pretty psyched by this.   
W:
T: Quick afternoon Cliff hit to support GF on her proj. I climbed Stu's Left into DWR 7C (Will Hunt will be so proud), I reckon finishing up DWR LH would be fine, but more importantly would earn me even more brownie points . Went indoors in the evening as I didn't feel worked, but lacked any sort of power on the 50. Tried to salvage the session with 3 PE sets. Should have just embraced the free evening.
F: lunch yoga
S: Over in Lancashire so gambled a trip to Craig y Longridge. Parts were temptingly dry but the weather was grim so bailed to Boulder UK instead (limit bouldering session). Have never been to Longridge before and I'm very keen to go back and get stuck in.   
S: Deadlift and front lever session.

[andy_e]

Good work beast!

[Palomides]

Right - dropped out for a couple of weeks so catching up.

Continued hangboarding and bouldering - already seeing improved performance on the easiest Beastmaker app program, possibly due to technique but good for confidence.

Last Thursday had knee operation (torn meniscus repair) under general. Now on three weeks off work at home so planning on nothing but hangboarding and any shoulder stabilisation exercises that I can do with a leg in a brace!

[filz]

M: theraband exercises, dips, push ups. Ring planks
T: theraband shoulder routine
W: fb: 30"-30" x4. 4 sets
T: rest
F: theraband shoulder routine, dips, push ups
S: scapular pull ups, assisted one-arm hangs, fb repeaters
S: board climbing and system. Good session.

Light training week. Most of the sessions were aimed to fix a pain in my left shoulder. Feeling well on the board.

[the_dom]

Time to get in shape for my trip to the Peak at the end of March..

    what's the plan?

Unfinished business from 2010 and who knows what else. Any recommendations in the 7B to 7C range? I have a strange pathology when it comes to climbing rough brown rock in cold temps. Rather psyched.

Need anywhere to stay?

I'm sorted, thanks. My wife is coming along so has put her rather exceptional AirBNB skills to use (I don't get to pick accommodation for us after a "luxury" apartment in J-bay that I booked).. 

[psborland]

M. BBC - bouldering, very tired from day before couldn't do much atall , went home and did climbflow core and some pull ups.

T. HB- max 1 hand hangs ; Kettlebell hiit ; front levers for strength.

W. BBC- general bouldering followed by  5x4

Th. rest

F. HB workout : 3 reps 7 on 53 off x 6 sets (different grip each set) deadlifts

Sa. max pressups; core work & climbflow routine.

Su. BBC good session bouldering harder. Weighted pullups 20Kg x5 30Kg x5 35Kg x3 35Kgx2.5   prayed for better weather

[Sasquatch]

2017 Goal: 4 of 40
Good Week

M-rest, Light shoulder therapy
T-Almost bolted outside for a session, but got pulled into work/family, so stayed in and had a massive Moonboard session.  24 problems, and worked several projects extensively.  Good hard session.  (#2 of 40 ticked)
W-Skate Ski 9mi, 45min.  Fast ski, about killed the dogs
T-Fb and Moonboard Max Hangs, 5x+80lbs on BM2K outside low crimps. moderate MB after FBing
F-Rest Shoulder work
S-Rest
S-Big Day, Moonboard-(#3 & maybe #4 of 40 ticked), then to wall and did, 7a, 7b, 7c+, 8a, 7b.  Well chuffed as I have not been doing ANY End training , and it felt OK...

[petejh]

STG: Send other M10 DT route at Manod. Send existing projs at Crag X (NI), Mega Crag X (NI), G.Orme and Gideon.
MTG: first 8b+ (Mecca), spring. Continue bolting/sending new routes at Mega Crag X (spring-summer). Explore more of Ireland. Send 2 projs on L.Orme (late summer)
LTG: 8c, by June 2018

Week 1 / 10 before Mecca.

M.
T. Lattice assessment. Hang: 0.5kg assistance LH, 0.75kg assistance RH. Lattice: 81, 61, 52, 31, 22, 20, 15. Strength OK. Surprised I managed 81 as my endurance is generally poor when I'm not routing. As expected Aerocap and Ancap scores low-average.
W. Fingerboard sesh. 5 x 10secs with 20Kg on BM2k large slots with a triple-A battery shoved in them to make a 20mm edge. Felt a bit painful between the DIP and PIP joint in right middle.
T. Flew to NI in evening.
F. Equipping new routes at mega crag X. Baltic cold, so cold. Hung on rope in the wind for a few hours.
S. Re-positioned upper volts on new route at 'crag x'. So, so freezing cold...
S. Equipping new routes at mega crag x. Totally freezing, frigid, brass monkey cold. Hanging on rope in 2 degrees in a howling gale.

Productive weekend despite the deep chill to the bones - now have 3 new routes at mega crag x and 1 newie waiting to do at crag x. All good (very good) qualtiy. 30m long hard 7, 18m mid and low 7, 15m hard 7. Can't wait to get back when it's warm enough to climb!

Bit concerned about middle finger. Unfocused ache around PIP but only when I try to raise finger against resistance, not when I crimp down.

Lattice test was worthwhile at the start of the run in to Mecca, gives me a benchmark and I know what I need to focus on.

[cheque]

I think climbing walls are really bad for my back - but I'm not sure why...

I used to get this 'til I trained myself to relax my lower back more as I landed on the mats. Now I only get it if I've been falling from the top a lot.

[Muenchener]

STG: Left leg pistol squat
MTG (Spring 2017): Redpoint 7b
LTG (<= 5 years): Redpoint 8a before I hit 60.

M: Bike to & from work one hour
T:   Boulderwelt with M jnr. Much better session than Sunday: solid progress on my new proj on the 6c+-to-7a+ circuit, only one move on it I haven't managed to stick; also flashed two new "6C" blocs on the comp wall; this alone would have been a contender for my best bouldering performance ever had they not both been around 6B, bottom end 6B+ at most.
W: Shoulders, mobility, pistol squat progressions
T: Max hangs
F:
S: Wall, Thalkirchen. Falling practice: a mate is working towards a DAV instructor qualification and needs teaching practice; I always need to fall off more and, as a heavier climber, to work on my soft catching reflex. So a worthwhile session all round.
S: In Düsseldorf for a meeting tomorrow so checked out Monkey Spot, the local bouldering wall. Small, but decent setting and a relaxed & friendly atmosphere; I liked it.

Falling down (not literally) on the pistol squat training, but a couple of good indoor bouldering sessions. Do hope the indoor bouldering season will be coming to an end soon though.

[Duma]

Goals:
Good winter bouldering season,
8A (Hunters Roof? Full Power?)and 8b by next June
In shape for SA in summer.

Body Audit: Shoulder ok. DIP joint on RH middle finger very tender on top, feels worryingly like it'll hyperextend at any moment - icing today and not climbing til weds at least - anyone have any knowledge, or know if this is tapeable?.
Sleep: ok, stopped the Melatolin on Thurs and didn't seem to make any appreciable diff. Think a drink or two might be having an effect so going to try and avoid unless out - will see how it goes
68kg.

M: TCA, another session on the Reds, few more around low 7's. Got all but three now. Fingers tweaky after though.(~8hrs pretty much uninterrupted  (no booze))
T: Bloc, easy session for fingers, tried to restrict self to Blues (think these are up to 6B) did get drawn in to one Yellow, but it was on nice slopey pinches so decided was ok. (~7hrs (2 drinks))
W: nothing. (~7hrs (no booze))
T: TCA, anon comp - redpoint format - flashed all, really chuffed obviously, though they def were too easy for a redpoint format.(~7.5hrs (1 drink)
F: nothing, stressed night. (~4.5hrs (no booze))
S: nothing, day 1 of training for Mod 1 bike test, ace fun, u turns are hard! Out in eve, drank lots (~7.5hrs, but pretty low quality I guess)
S: nothing, hungover. (~? hrs)

[Duma]

S: nothing, hungover. (~?hrs)

oops, missed this

(~7hrs (no booze))